Many gardeners dream of growing a luxurious pink "tree" in their garden. And only a few of them dare to make their dreams come true: the idea of growing a graceful rose on a trunk in our rather harsh climate seems too adventurous. However, if you choose the shtamb and the graft variety correctly, it will not be so difficult to form a pink “tree”.
You are deeply mistaken if you think that growing roses on a trunk is a lot of professionals. Of course, to create a pink "tree" - not to weed a flowerbed, however, by showing patience, you can achieve significant success in this troublesome business even without being an advanced gardener.
If you have the experience of grafting garden trees, then you will certainly cope with the formation of a stem rose, because this plant is nothing but the result of budding (grafting with a bud) a cultivar of a rose on a rosehip branch.
How to grow a standard rose by yourself
The best time for budding rose hips is the period of active sap flow, when the bark is well separated: end of April - beginning of May or end of July - beginning of August.
The ideal stock will be a strong branch (it will later become the "stem" (stem) of the rose "tree") wild rose, which is not afraid of frost, resistant to diseases and pests, has a strong root system. All other branches before vaccination should be cut.
Harvest cuttings (shoots with mature wood and well-formed buds) for vaccination is better on the eve of the procedure. Cut them in a damp cloth and leave them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator overnight.
Shumble shtamb (vaccinated kidney varietal scion) can be at a height of from 40 cm to 1.5 m above ground level. The final choice of the location of the vaccine depends only on how high the standard rose you want to receive as a result.
2-3 weeks after the procedure, evaluate whether the accretion was successful or not. If the grafted kidney begins to swell, and the leaf stalk disappears, it means that the budding was successful. In this case, loosen the strapping slightly, and after 3-4 weeks remove it completely.
The blackened "eye" - evidence of a failed vaccination, but not a reason for frustration, because after removing the strapping and treating wounds on the trunk, the procedure can be repeated in another place.
The following spring, cut off the briar branch so that 4-5 cm of stem remain over the root bud.
To make the formation of a standard rose go faster, do not forget to remove wild growth on the trunk and roots in a timely manner, and also feed the plant (the choice of feeding depends only on the composition of the soil).
You can admire the pink "tree" grown by your own hands, 2-3 years after being inoculated with wild rose, when the branches of a grafted cultivar grow well.
Recommended varieties of roses for grafting on shtamb
In principle, any roses that are compatible with the stock can be used as a graft for the formation of a pink "tree". However, if you want to get a plant of unusual shape and unearthly beauty, give preference to a variety that blooms profusely and beautifully.
The height of the graft should always be considered when choosing the height of the stock. So, miniature roses will look good on a low (up to 0.7 m) trunk. The optimal stem height for grandiflor, hybrid tea, polyanthus and groundcover roses is 0.7-1.2 m, for climbing trees - 1-2.5 m.
We bring to your attention 7 varieties of roses, which at the time of blooming buds are a magnificent sight and not only tolerate our harsh winters, but are also resistant to diseases and pests.
For the decoration of small gardens, the creation of flower beds, microborders are ideal grown on the trunk of roses of the sort Knirps. Plants bloom long and abundantly. Their lush terry pink flowers against a background of shallow, deeply green foliage are the epitome of tenderness and helplessness.
However, despite the seeming fragility, the plants perfectly adapt to the conditions of our rather unpredictable climate. They are well tolerated by the heat and severe frosts, prolonged rain they also uneasy.
Another advantage of the Knirps variety of roses is their good resistance to diseases and pests.
Types of roses on a trunk
These are unusual flowers, giving the landscape beauty and completeness. These bushes determine the required height of the flower bed, border, are the center of the composition. Low standard trees are used to decorate flowerpots with flowers in patio gardens, alpine gardens, and flower beds of various shapes and sizes.
Stem roses with their own hands by grafting true artists.
To make such a tree, you can use varieties that meet the following conditions:
- The shrub of an adult plant of a symmetric, compact form, somewhere even looks like a weeping willow.
- Growing shoots should be able to maintain the desired shape during the growth of the shrub.
They grow a rose on a trunk with the help of a graft on a single stalk, setting a weeping shape: this means that the branches should hang freely and also have a compact form, sometimes a geometric shape, supported by regular pruning.
The stock for such roses is most often wild rose, which is frost-resistant and can form a strong root system.
To form a stab, use varieties of low roses Grouse and Nozomi. For shaping the weeping form used curly varieties Ballerina or Canary Bird.
Standard roses: what kind of plant, description
Translated from the German "shtamb" means "trunk." Botanists know that this is a part of the plant from the root collar to the first branches. Therefore, these roses can not be called bushes, they are more like low trees. In nature, these roses are not, they are created by man, and they can rightly be called a man-made miracle.
Interestingly, on the trunk you can grow any kind and variety of roses, just by making a successful graft on the rose hips.
This opens up unlimited possibilities for breeders, since two or even three plant varieties can coexist on the same shtambu.
The best species and varieties
Standard roses in the garden are divided into different types.
It depends on the height of the trunk:
- miniature - 0.4 - 0.5m,
- semi-tambouric - 0.7 - 0.8 m,
- standard - 0.9 - 1.1 m,
- weeping - 1.2 - 1.7 m.
The first type is used to grow miniature and ground-covering roses, half-tambok - for floribunda roses, standard-for roses and hybrid varieties, weeping-for climbing species.
The most popular types are:
How to grow a standard rose on a windowsill?
A standard rose on a windowsill is a way out for those who love roses, but cannot grow them in flowerbeds. In the conditions of city apartments there is no need to boast an abundance of space, therefore the best choice is miniature standard roses. The place should be bright, but shaded in the hot midday hours. Scorching sunshine can cause burns.
Growing roses on the windowsill is no big deal:
- Capacity for planting is better to take a wooden or ceramic.
- Drainage from gravel, shards and sand is required.
- It is necessary to water as the earthen coma dries, not allowing it to be completely dry.
- It is necessary to regularly remove faded flowers or cut off faded shoots by a third.
At home, plants can also hurt, so you need to conduct regular inspections.
Cultivation and care in the open field
Landing is better to carry out in the spring. It is difficult to name a specific date, because depending on the climatic conditions, this period can last from March to mid-May.
Choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to their external characteristics. Shtamb should be smooth, crown - branched, shoots - healthy and lignified. The best stock is Kanina's rose. It grows quickly, has a strong root system, is durable, winter-hardy, disease resistant and pest.
It is better to buy a seedling in a pot, as the standard roses are very sensitive to the loss of moisture.
The best place is a well-lit and protected from the wind plot with light clay soil. It is advisable to choose a place where there is no high groundwater level. Planting and caring for such a rose is not as complicated as it seems at first.
First of all, you need to listen to these tips:
- Mulch the ground around the bushes with swollen manure or sawdust. It protects the soil from waterlogging and drying.
- Monitor the frequency of watering. It is better to water with warm water in shallow wells in pristvolny circles.
- Periodically loosen the soil, but only superficially, so as not to damage the root system.
- Spring time to trim the plant. This contributes to lush flowering, the formation of a compact crown, strengthened shoots and improvement of the bush. Pruning can be done only with sharp pruners necessarily 5 mm above the developed kidney. Slices need to process garden pitch.
- To thin shtamb not broke under the weight of the branches and flowers, it must be supported by support.
With the shelter of standard roses, problems may arise, as this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the boles. The trunk is undermined by a shovel and gently bend down to the ground on a spruce branch. Then the crown is covered with a layer of lapnik and film. The root and base are plentifully covered with earth. Shelter is removed only when the threat of severe frost has passed.
Proper feeding and fertilizer for lush flowering
The feed chart is pretty simple:
- in the spring - after trimming with sheet humus and fertilizers with nitrogen,
- immediately after each wave of flowering - liquid organic and mineral compounds,
- at the end of summer or the beginning of autumn - with phosphorus-potash fertilizer.
In dressing it is important not to overdo it. An excess of micro and macro elements, as well as their lack, has a bad effect on the growth and development of a plant.
Propagation of roses on the trunk
The reproduction of such roses takes a lot of time, since it takes at least 3 years to grow the stock alone. The easiest way to grow stock from the hips, removing the rest of the shoots. After that, they carry out a budding - inoculation with an eye -, retreating from the top about 45 cm. It is better to make a double inoculation, then the crown will be more magnificent.
Eyes vaccinated in the summer, will go to growth in the spring of next year. The tops of young shoots need to constantly pinch after 3 - 4 leaves. In early summer, the standard rose will be ready.
Fight against diseases and pests
Standard roses are subject to the same diseases as their usual relatives. Rust, spotting, gray rot, powdery mildew - this is not a complete list of diseases. Therefore, for prevention, it is better to periodically spray roses with special compositions.
Garden pests, too, do not disregard standard roses. It can be aphid, scytworm, rabbits, spider mites, thrips. But modern drugs (Iskra, Neoron, Actellic, Intavir) will help get rid of the invasion of uninvited guests.
Application in landscape design
The possibilities of using standard roses are quite wide. They can be used for decoration of flower beds, rabatok, recreation areas, vertical supports in the form of walls and ladders. The combination of standard and low spray roses allows you to effectively form a multi-tiered space.
- Pink trees can be planted in the center of the lawn as a soloist, and miniature ground cover roses can be planted in the tree circle.
- Weeping standard forms look very nice - they resemble a real cascade or a waterfall of flowers.
- In the big gardens make even real avenues of pink trees.
Growing a standard rose is not as difficult as it seems to beginners. If you follow the simple recommendations given by experienced gardeners, lush trees will delight your eyes for many years.
Standard roses: what they are
Standard roses are divided height bole (from the beginning of the roots to the site of vaccination, without crown), which determines the possibilities of their use in gardening:
- miniature standard blocks (0.40-0.45 m),
- half-tambour (0.7-0.8 m),
- standard (0.9-1.1 m),
- weeping (cascading) roses (1.2-1.7 m).
On miniature stumps more often miniature roses are planted, and sometimes compact varieties of ground cover roses. Half-tumb roses mainly serve to demonstrate the picturesque and richly blooming floribunda roses, and standard To the general delight are tea hybrid roses. Weeping Standard Roses obtained from ground cover and climbing roses, especially impressive cascades of roses like Rambler.
There are no minor details in the standard rose. Rose 'Magic Meillandecor'
There are no minor details in the standard rose. The stem must be an even, grafted variety with an attractive habit (for example, bushes with straight shoots are out of place on the trunk), the excellent quality of the flower, delicate aroma, decorative and healthy leaves. The necessary condition is abundant and long-term flowering, preferably without long pauses.
When buying a standard rose in our garden centers, unfortunately, it is impossible to obtain detailed information, only a specialist, judging from the name of the grafted variety and the quality of the seedling, can judge its decorative possibilities.
Selection of seedlings
Standard roses are better to buy in containers, as they are especially sensitive to moisture loss. Choose straight stumps with a diameter of at least 1 cm (for weeping forms - about 2 cm), without signs of damage. The crown should be formed and have several strong branches. In the future, you can achieve a uniform crown, if you succeeded in budding two buds. In some large European nurseries even three buds are grafted onto weeping stumps. Should not buy shtamby with one grafted kidney - as a rule, it is not possible to form an attractive crown.
Let me explain this simple verification mechanism. Choose any escape from the crown of the trunk and find its base - this is the place of budding. If all the shoots of the crown come only from this bud, then the budding of the other bud has failed. Choose a shtambe where behind the scenes 2 kidneys, and from opposite sides relative to the axis of the trunk. Other options will always be worse.
When choosing a standard rose sapling you need to be very careful
When buying a sapling with closed root system should proceed from the requirement that the height of the container is not less than 25 cm, the plant can be easily removed, and the earth com is penetrated by roots. There may be cases when the arms only are planted in containers the day before, and this option guarantees only problems. Dry or waterlogged soil, the presence of weeds or moss are signs of poor care.
Standard roses with open roots during engraftment will require significant attention. Sprouted buds, and even more so - growing young shoots of seedlings with bare roots signal a loss of quality, they will have to be pruned when planted. If you have no experience, it is better to postpone the purchase until the next successful event.
Planting rules of standard roses
Standard roses plant in the spring. A sapling from a container is planted in a larger pit than an earthen room, replacing the temporary support with a reliable count. Remember that in the garden center roses in pots are watered daily, so the first 3-4 weeks water them more often. By planting standard roses with bare roots should be taken more carefully.
Sequence of operations
1. Before planting a rose in a pit is installed strong support, the top of which should be slightly below the crown.
2. Rose planted without deepening at a distance of about 10 cm from the support, providing for a slight tilt in the direction of bending down during the winter shelter.
3. You should also pay attention to base bend: it must be on the opposite side of the slope. This moment is always difficult and needs clarification. Imagine that this escape did not grow strictly vertically, but at some angle relative to the surface of the earth. When it was straightened and fastened to a peg, a bend formed at its base. If you look at the shtamb, and this bend, for example, on the left, then you need to bend the shtamb to the right during the shelter.
Remember the reference point even when landing (for example, towards your gazebo or white lilac bush, etc.), otherwise in the fall you will return to this problem again, and its solution will be even more difficult.
Standard roses need a strong support.
4. After landing and compaction of shtam soil tied to a support loops in the form of eight at the base of the crown, in the middle and in the lower part of the trunk.
5. Hold trimming the crown in accordance with the variety belonging to the garden group of roses.
6. After landing for the period of engraftment, the crown is needed protect from drying out. To this end, the budding site and shoots can be overlaid with moistened moss or cotton (even paper) and tied with lutrasil. Before swelling and germination of the kidneys (about 10 days) it is necessary to ensure that the protective material is always wet. Expose the crown after engraftment is better on cloudy days or evening hours. If you fail to save all the buds, you will have to prune dried tops.
7. In the future, when the roses get stronger and grow, you have to put crown supportespecially drooping and heavy. For these purposes, special holders are sold. Я использую металлическую крестовину из труб, на которой равномерно распределяю, например, плети рамблера.
Советы по уходу за штамбовыми розами
The care of standard roses is carried out according to the principle of belonging of a grafted variety to garden groups of roses and contains the whole complex of agrotechnical measures. Particular attention should be paid pruning, because it primarily determines the decorativeness of the standard rose.
When caring for standard roses, special attention is paid to pruning
The main pruning of all types of roses, except for once blooming roses like Rambler, is carried out in the spring. Once blooming roses, Rambler is cut immediately after flowering, otherwise the crown thickens and flowering decreases. With this group of roses, you can achieve the desired shape of the crown, but many experienced gardeners believe that the most effective natural. Remontnye varieties of this group (‘Super Dorothy’ and ‘Super Excelsa’) pruned as climbing large-flowered roses.
Attention should be paid to another peculiarity of standard roses: the rootstock shoots can appear along the entire height of the trunk. It is necessary to periodically inspect the shtamb, especially in the places of the garter and parts hidden by the crown. As the extra shoots appear, they simply break out.
You can do it: how to grow a standard rose yourself
Growing shtambov roses - quite complicated, and most importantly - a long occupation. To grow a quality seedling is required not less than 4 years. Despite some difficulties, every enthusiast is able to independently grow the pride of his own garden. Of course, I will not vouch for the quality and durability of such a trunk, but in any case, it will bring you joy.
Standard rose you are able to grow yourself
If some of your grafted roses (of course, not very old) died, and from the root in the spring appeared strong shoots of the rootstock, leave the most powerful of them, and cut the rest at the root collar. Under favorable conditions, the rose hips can grow and have time to woody up to the chosen height of the trunk, but most likely, your task will be to preserve it until next summer.
With technology budding Get acquainted with literary sources (for example, refer to the following articles: What is budding and how to do it correctly, Vaccination for the queen: a master-class on budding roses). Practice cutting the shield with a bud on any branch of a rose.
When budding use a special budding knife. In early August, spend budding in a T-shaped incision on the stock with two buds (from opposite sides, the height interval is about 3 cm). After 2-3 weeks, check kidney survival, and if they are green, then your plant is already called oculist, and you're on the road to success.
For the winter, fold the oculant, pre-cut it, leaving about 10 cm of stem above the grafted buds, and cover it easily for the winter. In the spring, after the snow melts and the soil warms up, prune at a distance of 1 cm from the upper bud and make sure to coat the cutting surface with usual garden pitch. Do not use modern means, through them the cut "cries".
Stamb necessarily be straightened and in several places tie to the support. If the bob turns out to be uneven, this will later manifest as a fatal defect. To avoid the risk of germinating buds, protect them from drying out with lutrasil strapping.
Growing shtambov roses is not easy, but very interesting
It remains the most pleasant operation - crown formation. Young shoots pinch after 4 leaves, and the first buds are removed. At the end of the summer you will see your shtam blooming.
On how to prepare the standard roses for winter and how to cover them, we talked in the article Are the roses threatening your rose, or once again about the shelter of standard roses.
What are these roses
Many beginners, mistaken, believe that this type of flower is a separate garden group. Although in fact it is just a reception of floral art that skillful rose growers have created to emphasize the beauty and sophistication of these unsurpassed fragrant plants.
Did you know?There is no people in the world who would not bow to roses. For example, Muslims equate delicate buds with the gift of God and never allow themselves to stomp the fallen petals with their feet.
Undoubtedly, standard roses attract to themselves their extraordinary form and are of interest to find out what it is. Creating a similar beauty, gardeners try to evenly give decorativeness to all sides of the tree. In addition, it should blend harmoniously into the overall landscape of the garden. But you don’t have to worry about it at all.
Shtamby perfectly combined in group plantings with identical and bush roses, look single on lawns and mixborders. Often in roses, roses of varying height are arranged, thus forming an effective multi-tiered cascade.
There is no such place in the garden where a standard rose would be superfluous, in landscape design it is an invaluable exotic decoration, as is evident from the photos below.
Moreover, it can be made from any type and type of culture: even from tea-hybrid, miniature, large-color, floribunda, English "taverns" or from ground-covering and weeping small-colored roses.
Did you know?Cleopatra is remembered in history not only as a wise Egyptian queen and beauty, but also as a zealous fan of roses. No banquet with her participation could not do without these lovely flowers. Their petals decorated the floor, where the queen was supposed to step. On special occasions, this petal flooring reached a height of half a meter. Cleopatra also loved to watch the waves of rose petals while walking on the gallery.
How to choose seedlings when buying
From the quality of the seedling depends on the decorativeness and the potential of the trunk. Therefore, before choosing, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of the proposed range.
The purchase is recommended to make in specialized garden stores or nurseries, where you can also get expert advice.
Popular among gardeners are such varieties of roses as "Sophia Loren", "Pierre de Ronsard", "Double Delight", "Falstaff", "Rugoza".
Feel free to ask a lot of uncomfortable questions. Suspicion should cause ignorance sellers of their goods.
The firstwhat consultants should be asked about - seedling age. Two-year specimens are considered more promising, since they already have a well-developed root system and a strong stem.
Note It stands on the garden group of the favorite variety. Further cultivation and care requirements depend on it. Be sure to ask about the stock, because its characteristics play a significant role in creating a flowering rosewood. Wicked stuff For stock, experienced growers consider roses cinnamon and rubiginosis. This position is substantiated by dense growth, loose wood structure and strongly thorny sprouts.
Important!Spotting, dry or stale root processes, darkened zones on the trunk and roots, cracks and faults at the site of vaccination indicate poor quality of the seedling. High-quality seedling shtambovoy roses has:
- an even smooth bob (without sagging, spots, abrasions and other injuries of any nature), up to 1 cm in diameter for ordinary species, and up to 2 cm for weeping,
- evenly developed crown, which is based on 2-3 powerful sprouts,
- two or more grafts in the crown (only in such conditions the tree will be lush),
- lignified sprouts
- closed rhizome (such instances are always fresh and easily take root in a new place).
Experienced rose growers share their own experience in creating standard roses. To do this, it is necessary to form a shrub on the briar trunk with a budding method or grafting with a bud-eye.
Choosing the right place
Wherever you plant a standard rose on your plot, it will look spectacular everywhere. But everywhere she will be comfortable, we shall understand in more detail.
Roses of any kind and selection prefer an open, protected zone from drafts, northerly winds, stagnant water and constant dampness. Also, when choosing, consider the location of groundwater - their proximity is extremely undesirable for shtambov.
Remember: these tender plants do not like sun and feel bad in the shade. In such extreme conditions, they get burned or dragged out strongly, losing their attractiveness. The best option for culture is the penumbra on the south side, somewhere near the fence or the room.
Important!Buy seedlings only in containers that are at least 24 cm high, where there is a wet and fresh substrate. Moss, weeds and dried earthen room indicate poor care of the shtamb.
Planting a standard rose
Choosing the right place and a healthy seedling is only half of the successful cultivation of pink trees. For their quick rooting and full-growing vegetation, it is necessary to prepare the terrain, planting material and not be mistaken with the terms of all the planned works. Let's figure out how to grow a standard rose in the step-by-step instructions below.
Unconditionally, the best period for planting roses is spring. It is important to wait until the land on the site warms up above 15 degrees, and the weather is stable and warm outside.
Rose growers, citing their many years of experience in growing standard and bush forms, recommend rooting in the last decade of April until mid-May. Considering the fact that the purchased seedlings in most cases are realized with a closed root system, it is allowed to plant stem roses throughout the warm season. In the summer, such specimens require abundant and regular moisture.
Important!If you want to create your own shtamb, choose a rosehip as the stock, which at the genetic level is able to withstand cold weather, diseases and harmful insects. The selected sample must have a strong rhizome and tall, flexible shoots.
All the preparatory work in this case, plan in the fall. They consist in deep plowing and fertilizing the land. For boles, as well as for other grafted samples, soil conditions do not play a big role.
Of course, plants need loose substrates enriched with nutrients to stimulate growth. Roses feel most comfortable on light loamswhich are diluted with river sand, peat, compost and organic matter during the preparation process.
But if the situation goes beyond the classical, then to adjust the depleted problem areas will need special agronomic knowledge. Experts advise on the enriched chernozem after dropping to make clay, and in places where there is a clear lack of phosphorus - a solution from mullepot infusion, bone meal and superphosphate.
When using the last component, it is important to take into account the acidity of the substrate. In an acidic environment, it is highly undesirable. To neutralize the pH reaction, bone or phosphorus flour will be needed, but the desired result will come only after 3 years.
Did you know?The warriors of ancient Rome revered rose buds as a symbol of courage and courage, so they considered it a great honor to be awarded a wreath of roses instead of a helmet.
Sandy substrate, which is not very favorable for standard roses, differs in friability, air and water permeability, it quickly heats up, but has a small amount of micronutrients.
On such a site you will need to add 2 parts of clay and turf ground, ground into powder, and a little bit of humus will not interfere either.
If you are dealing with loams, when kneading in your hand, a lump of earth quickly crumbles and easily breaks up into small lumps that do not stick together. Such land is available good aeration and many nutrients. Improve the substrate with three parts of coarse sand, compost and sod soil. Heavy clayey areas require special attention, in which the earth does not let air and water badly, stray into lumps, dry for a long time, and having lost moisture, it cracks heavily.
Paint a picture of the constituent minerals that the plant needs at all stages of the growing season. But young and immature roots will be hard to break through the knocked down piles.
It is possible to correct the terrain with the help of a soil mixture from an equal amount of sod and leaf land, humus and compost.
Important!To feed roses of any varietal and species variety is recommended by horse or cow dung, which has been perevaloval for 2 years. As an alternative, you can use biohumus obtained from organic matter in the process of vital activity of earthworms..
If your choice fell on the area where the roses had previously grown, but for some reason they died, during the preparation you will need to remove about 70 cm of the upper layer and make a mound of fresh soil mixture.
This is necessary to reduce the risks of infection of shtambov diseases and pests of predecessors. In the case of bulk earth, you will need to dig up the area twice to achieve its breathability. A seedling must also be prepared for planting. Depending on its varietal features, the crown is shortened and a plastic bag with moistened moss is put on it. This is done in order to protect the top of the tree from drying during the rooting period.
Roses do not like crowding. It is comfortable for them to develop at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. If you are planning to develop bush forms near the shtamb, take into account the height and diameter of the crown of both.
Indeed, often, without having calculated the volumes of neighboring plants, gardeners complain that low-growing varieties are lost in the composition.
Did you know?The largest exporter of roses in the world is the Netherlands.
For rooting standard roses prepare a groove with a height and width of 70 cm. The dimensions of the pit can be varied depending on the rhizome. He should not be in the hole closely. Then, in the middle, a strong support is driven into the half-meter depth, the height of which should be below the trunk.
The bottom is first loosened with forks, and then covered with expanded clay. Then pour a mound of 5 cm in height from mixed turf, hardwood, peat, sand and clay.
The ingredients are added depending on the characteristics of the soil composition, as we have already mentioned above. The classic version provides for equal amounts of compost, clay, turf and hardwood land. When the pit is ready, the earthen clod with the trunk has been removed from the container and placed carefully into it. Top sprinkled with fertile substrate, watered and carefully tamp the hole. Pay attention that the root neck is 4-5 cm deep. In contrast to the bush forms, standard roses at the end of planting do not spud loose earth, but tie the branches with fabric tape to the support in two places. When the rose takes root, the film is removed. And take shelter better in the evening or on cloudy weather. In such conditions, the plant is easier to survive the temperature change.
Important!Some housewives advise instead of a bag with wet moss to spread around the buds and along the shoots of wet cotton wool and within 10 days to monitor the level of humidity.
Combination with other plants
In the garden or in the garden, a rose, like a precious stone, will decorate any place. But not all plants are friendly toward these prickly neighbors. The specialists do not recommend to combine with them chamomile, asparagus, rudbeckia.
Better to choose a tandem of lavender, geranium, stonecrop, sage, undersized bells. Also shtaby are good with annuals: lobelia, ageratum, petunia. Some experimenters compose roses with a maned barley or a gray-headed fescue.
Experienced rose growers are advised to take into account the volume of the perennial root system when creating compositions with young standard roses.
Often the neglect of this detail leads to the displacement of weak seedlings. This undesirable effect can be obtained every time you place plants in cramped quarters. Only the strong will survive. Did you know?Virtually all women's cosmetics include to some extent rose oil.
Standard roses differ from their fellows in demanding conditions. During the entire growing season, the level of moisture in the soil, its looseness and nutritional value play an important role.
Particular attention should be paid to tying trunks to supports, preparing for winter and preventive measures against diseases and pests. Analyze all the details of care.
Watering, weeding and loosening
Water-loving culture throughout the warm season need to ensure regular watering. Immediately after planting, the stumps, so that their crown does not dry out, are placed in a moist environment.
The pristvolny circles moisten, even when the top layer of soil has not dried yet. Many owners facilitate the process of drip installations. If this is not possible, for each mature plant you need to pour at least 20 liters of water. And this is done in special grooves near the roots, which at the end of the procedure are sealed with a rake. Sprinkling for shtambov is fraught with burns and the death of weak branches, so it’s better not to resort to this method.
Important!Roses that bloom twice during the season (remontant), need to cut off the old inflorescences just below 2 pairs of leaves. This nuance accelerates the subsequent budding.
Weeds are not the place in the rose garden, because they suck out useful trace elements from the soil depths, depriving the nutrition of flowers. In addition, these thickets look unaesthetic.
Розы хорошо себя чувствуют в рыхлой мягкой земле. Следовательно, сделать ее такой нужно с помощью сапки, регулярной прополки и мульчи. To curb weeds and prevent evaporation of moisture under the shafts lined with peat, compost, humus or a mixture of the above components. Mulch pristvolnye circles preferably in the spring before the foliage.
Garter to the support
As the boom develops, you will need replace the original support for a stronger one. It should be made of durable material: metal, plastic, fiberglass or wood.
It is installed on the opposite side from the slope of the trunk, departing 10 cm from it. The pot roses will also need additional props so that during a gust of wind the containers do not overturn under the weight of the branches. It is possible to fasten branches to the support with tape, foam rubber, cloth patches that will not injure the plant. This is done in such a way that the shoots do not slip and rub against the garter.
Most often, the mount is formed as an eight just below the vaccine. It is unacceptable that the shoots should be rubbed at the place of the garter, as this will cause significant damage to the crown. Important!Before planting, a container with a standard rose must be poured with clay-manure liquid, adding to it a glass of Heteroauxin solution (1 tablet per bucket of water).
During the growing season, roses need only 2 dressings. The first is relevant in the spring, and the second - after flowering. Young specimens are fertilized immediately after planting.
As fertilizer, you can use the purchased mineral complex means or rotted manure and humus. Organics are usually laid out annually in pristvolnyh circles in a thin layer.
Adult shtambam need up to 6 kg of substance per square meter. For good growth, roses are needed: potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and magnesium. To the above substances are easily digested, they are made in a moist soil.
Spray and standard forms of roses cause sympathy not only among people. Shchitovki, caterpillars, aphid, mites, earwigs and other harmful insects love to feast on the juice and young fibers of these plants.
They are also very sensitive to attacks of pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Immune resistance to parasites and microorganisms depends on the genetic characteristics of the stock and the grafted variety.
Did you know?Scientists have discovered a thousand-year-old rose bush near the cathedral in the German town of Gildersheim. The plant is considered the oldest member of the family, and its whips have already reached the top of the building.
In order to prevent attacks of pests, experts advise at the beginning of the growing season to treat standard roses with insecticides (Aktara, Rose Сlear, Bi-58 New). These drugs will help and at the first signs of the life of parasites.
Among the diseases of the culture threatens all sorts of rot, spotting, virus mosaic and chlorosis. To protect your beloved from this misfortune, regularly inspect the foliage and stems, in time remove all the affected areas, not allowing further spread of pathogens. As a preventive measure, sprinkling with dissolved ferrous sulfate is appropriate. The working solution is prepared in clay or glass containers at the rate of 4 liters of substance per 14 liters of water.
Re-treatment is desirable after 4 weeks. For large foci of infection will need the help of fungicides.
Much more difficult is the situation with viral infections, which are almost impossible to cure. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of garden tools, always disinfect tools before cutting the crown and prevent harmful insects from entering the garden.
Did you know?Wild roses adapt to any climatic conditions, there are varieties that grow exclusively in the zone of the North Pole.
Every gardener who takes on a pruner should understand that his main task is an plant cleaning damaged by frost, disease and insect sprouts, as well as removal of sprouts around the trunk and forming a rounded regular crown.
In the spring, work is carried out, taking into account the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety. For example, nursery experts advise not to cut short miniature roses, floribunda, hybrid tea. They need to leave at least 6 buds. If you break this rule and cut branches at the level of the 2-4th bud, you will get a deformed shape with powerful tall side shoots.
If you are dealing with a climbing garden group, cut out the skeletal shoots that bloomed last year, and the young ones only shorten slightly.
When young shoots are not present, do not remove the old whip completely, but only slightly cut off the tops on their side branches. A similar haircut is suitable for groundcover varieties.
All slices need to be sharp disinfected with potassium permanganate instrument. Ideally, the blade should go half a centimeter higher from the kidney. Sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm are necessarily sealed with garden pitch.
Important!Always remove wild shoots from shtamba that appear in the grafting sites. It grows intensively, it is distinguished by its high spikeiness and small foliage. If you overlook, the tops will drown the crown.
Preparing for the winter
It is necessary to begin preparation for cold weather in advance, without waiting for the first frosts. Approximately at the beginning of October or a couple of weeks earlier, branches are cut according to the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety.
Young shoots that did not have time to form and ripen, removed entirely. Otherwise, they will not be able to spend the winter and will lead to severe injury to the tree.
Experts advise roses from the group of hybrid tea and floribunda to shorten by 40 cm. On cascading and climbing small-color samples, pruning is carried out gently, barely touching the tops. In the preparation process, you must remove all the leaves from the crown, dig up the stem on one side and tilt it to the ground. Then a metal hook driven into the ground is fixed to the trunk in this position.
Some gardeners recommend laying a log at its base to avoid rifts.
We can not allow the crown to fall on the bare ground. Under it are spruce branches, and on top they are covered with plastic wrap. The rhizome is hidden under a mound of dry substrate (some are done with the same crown). In winter, the structure with the standard rose spud snow.
All shelters can be removed only when warm weather is established and the threat of spring frosts is over. Usually this period falls in the middle of April. If tightened, the plant will die. Important!In order for the buds on the roses to acquire deeper, bright tones, they are fed with clay, which has passed through the winter frosts, and then dried under the summer heat.
Be prepared that it is much more difficult to grow a stab rose yourself than a bush form. In addition, it will take a lot of time and effort.
About 3 years will be needed only in order to get a quality rose hips. But, when the plant blooms, you will see that the resources spent are worth it.
After landing, for the period of engraftment, the crown of the trunk is necessary protect from drying out, wrapping moistened moss or cotton and wrapping paper on top. Moss (cotton wool) is periodically moistened and after 7–10 days is removed, it is better to do this in the evening or cloudy weather.
Standard roses, like shrub roses, need to remove wild shoots and faded flowers, loosen the soil, water, feed, treatments against diseases and pests. In grafted plants below the site of vaccination and shoots of wild shoots often appear from the roots. It develops very quickly and differs from a cultural rose in smaller foliage, spinous. In case of oversight, wild plants can weaken the plant and even lead to its death.
Pruning staff roses
The main purpose of pruning is forming a beautiful round crown. At the same time, spring pruning of the crown is carried out depending on the variety belonging to one or another garden group. Do not cut the shoots of hybrid tea roses, floribunda group roses and miniature roses too short (as can be done with bush roses) - leave more than 5-6 buds. Strong pruning (when only 2–4 buds are left) promotes the formation of too powerful tall shoots that disturb the shape of the crown. The climbing standard roses cut the main shoots faded last year, leaving the young shoots of replacement, while shortening them a bit. If there are no replacement shoots or there are few of them, then the withered shoots are not cut, but the side branches are shortened on them. In cascading standard roses (ground cover) shorten the main and lateral branches.
Pruning should be done sharp shears 0.5 cm taller than a well-developed kidney. The cut should be smooth. Thick shoots cut with deliming or sawing. All sections more than 1 cm must be covered garden pitch.
Shelter standard roses for the winter
Shelter shtambovy roses start in late October - early Novemberbefore the onset of cold weather. Pre-cut the crown in accordance with the variety belonging to the garden group, but all nevzrevshie shoots are removed completely. In hybrid tea roses and floribunda groups, the shoots can be shortened to a height of 30–40 cm. If the stem rose is cascade, longer shoots are left; in climbing flowers of small-flowered roses, all shoots are full-length, slightly shortening them. However, in any case, pruned all the leaves - leave them undesirable, because over the winter they rot and become a source of fungal diseases.
The shtambi are undermined with a shovel and bent down to the ground, a lapnik is placed under the crown of the trunk, and a layer of lapnik is placed on top, fastening with a film or lutrasil. The root and base of the trunk are covered with dry earth (in some cases, the crown with lapnik can be covered with earth). In the future, the fallen snow finally covers the plants and serves them with a warm veil.
Fully remove the shelter in the spring should be only after the snow melts and the danger of severe frost has passed - this usually happens after April 10. But a later opening leads to decay and death of the plants.
How to propagate standard roses?
Before the standard rose goes on sale, it is grown for 5–6 years. You can grow it yourself, but it should be borne in mind that for the reproduction and cultivation of stem roses requires more time compared to the bush. Only on the cultivation of the stem stock with a height of 1.5–2.0 m will take 3–4 years. Therefore, when growing standard roses great attention is paid to the selection special strong-growing forms of stock and high agricultural technology.
Strong annual rose hips are planted in a well-fertilized area. By the autumn of the 2nd and 3rd, and sometimes only of the 4th year, renewal shoots with a height of 1.5–2.0 m with a trunk diameter of more than 1 cm grow. The spring cutting of part of last year’s renewal shoots contributes to the appearance of such shoots. Shoots appearing in the 4th year, almost not lengthened, branching in the upper part.
On each bush rose choose one of the highest and most direct escape - the best is the one that appears in the spring and has time to woody by the autumn. He will become the stem stock - the remaining shoots are cut at the root of the neck. In the autumn, the ready stock can be dug out, priked up horizontally and covered with spruce branches for the winter. If the stem stock was dug, it is planted in the spring and grafted at the same time as the spray roses - from late July to mid-August.
Budding (eye grafting) is performed on a shtambe in the usual way, departing from the top 40–50 cm. It is impossible to hold it too high on annual shoots, since their upper part contains a lot of moisture, and the stock does not grow together with the graft. In the T-shaped incision, 2 eyes are inserted from opposite sides at a distance of 2–3 cm from each other. Double grafting contributes to the formation of a lush crown. Cuttings for vaccination are cut from matured annual shoots of garden roses. From shoots that have not bloomed, cut cuttings should not be, because the buds on them are not sufficiently developed. Planting more than 2 buds is not recommended - then the 3rd kidney will not develop well. If inoculated in the winter, it is best to carry out budding in the bed. The survival rate of the stem stock is higher than the bush.
It is possible to inoculate a dogrose grown for a stump. any variety from any garden group, but it is better to look at the stems roses with a good structure of the bush. It is also possible to plant on one stem two varieties that distinguish by color. Low stumps 75–100 cm high are usually circled with miniature roses, the stumps 130–150 cm high are hybrid tea and floribunda roses, and 150–200 cm height stem are climbing and ground covering roses. For the winter, a freshly grafted stem bends down, spud earth and covers with spruce branches. In the spring, the shtabs are lifted, tied to a stake and cut over the grafted eye. Slice covered with garden pitch. In mid-May, the eyes vaccinated the previous summer, start to grow. To get a well-branched crown, pinch the tips of the shoots after the 3-4th leaf. During the summer, constantly pinch shoots, thereby forming a crown, and remove wild shoots. In September, your standard rose is ready.