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Spring grafting cuttings - proper preparation and storage

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Segments or whole annual shoots, also called cuttings, are the ideal material for the graft.

Tree grafting is carried out in order to accelerate the propagation of crops, improve their viability and improve the quality of the crop.

However, not all such segments will help to achieve the desired result, so before performing the procedure it is so important to know how to properly save cuttings for vaccination.

Deadlines for Procurement

Most often, shoots are harvested for storage twice a year: at the end of autumn (or at the beginning of winter) or in early spring (after the end of severe cold).

At the end of the autumn season, together with the completion of leaf fall and the onset of the first frost (down to -15 ° C), cutting the graft material does not injure the plant, since by this time it is already in a state of complete rest, and it will be much easier to keep such cuttings until spring. In addition, before the onset of cold weather, shoots already have time to harden well, and natural disinfection occurs along the way (mushrooms and microbes die from frost). The advantages of autumn harvesting cuttings are as follows:

  • One-year shoots, used later for vaccination, will not freeze out, which means that the gardener will be able to protect himself in advance from being left without planting material.
  • The resting state of the cutting is maintained immediately until the vaccination itself, which is very good, since it is precisely such specimens that are needed to complete the task.
If during the autumn period you did not manage to complete the material harvesting, cutting can be done at the end of cold weather, that is, in early spring. All that is needed for this is a pruner and a little garden decoction or ordinary paint.

In the area where winters are not very cold and the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, no problems with the inoculum should arise. In such conditions, cutting cuttings can be carried out on any winter day.

Requirements and storage conditions

The greatest difficulty before grafting a tree is to keep selected cuttings in good condition. Before the procedure itself, there is usually still a whole winter and an early spring, during which the prepared material can easily deteriorate. Particularly "gentle" - shoots of stone fruits, therefore, when they are planted, it is necessary to follow all instructions as precisely as possible. The optimum temperature for storage is -2 ... -4 ° C, and in most regions snow drifts with a layer of snow of 50-70 cm are best suited for wintering (of course, if there is no thaw). But this is not the only possible option, but you can find out more about all the ways of storing the billet shoots below.

Cut off the shoots should be immediately stored, but before that, wipe each part with a damp cloth, sort by size, tie into small bundles and put into a clean and new plastic bag in which they will be stored until use.

Storage in the ground

In principle, this storage option can be used for almost any cuttings, but it is best suited for vines. All that is needed is to dig a trench about 30-35 cm deep in a dry and not flooded place and place coniferous branches on its bottom. On top of them are placed the cut shoots, which are then covered with spruce leaves and sprinkled with earth. As an additional shelter, you can use fallen leaves or straw.

In those regions where winters are usually characterized by long thaws and prolonged humidity of snow, frozen sawdust will be a good option for storing cuttings of fruit trees or the same grapes. To organize the shelter, it is necessary to lay harvested future scion beams on wet sawdust (on the north side of the house), filling them with another layer 15-20 cm thick on top. In this form, the segments are left in the cold, and as soon as they freeze, it will be better to save forty-centimeter layer of dry sawdust, which they cover. The finished structure is additionally hidden under a plastic wrap that protects your workpieces from getting wet. In such a frozen state, the cuttings lie in sawdust until spring, and a few days before the vaccination, the bale with them is brought into the room and allow it to thaw out gradually.

To protect the harvested parts of the shoots from mice and other rodents, sawdust moistened with a solution of creolin and carbolic acid, based on the calculation of 50-60 g of substance on a bucket of water. According to the claims of experienced gardeners who use such a "perfume", animals will definitely bypass your laying.

In the cellar, you can store cuttings of almost any cultivated plants in your area: fruit and seed trees, grapes, etc. However, the conditions for them are different. While some will feel great in sackcloth or sawdust, others will like sand, peat or moss (spangum) more. When stored in sawdust, the bundles are placed in a plastic bag in sections cut down and sprinkled with sawdust (preferably from softwood). Tightly tying the bags is not necessary, because the main thing is that the shoots get oxygen.

When storing the material in the cellar conditions, it is important that the temperature is in the range of -2 ... + 1 ° С. It is better, of course, if it keeps at a value of 0 ° C or slightly lower, but, besides the cuttings, other preparations are often stored in the cellar, so you shouldn’t go to extremes and switch the whole room to minus mode. The ideal option is 0. +2 ° C.

At the same time, we should not forget about the storage features of the cuttings of the vine. For her, the optimal temperature conditions are values ​​slightly above 0 ° C (for example, 0. + 4 ° C), which allows you to save segments up to mid-March. To control and timely adjust temperature indicators, place a thermometer in the basement. This will help to avoid overheating or overcooling of the material for the stock. Thus, an increase in temperature above +3 ° C causes swelling of the kidneys, which makes the cuttings unsuitable for vaccination.

The most suitable humidity in the cellar is 65-70%, and to increase this indicator (especially necessary when storing grape cuttings), it is enough to put a bucket of water on the floor.

In addition to the basement, sand can be used to store selected cuttings directly on your site. All you have to do is to dig a trench 50 cm deep (the remaining parameters are not so important) and lay bundles of cuttings on its bottom, having previously covered the "floor" with a layer of important sand (about 5 cm thick). Try to stack bunches close to each other, then fill them with slightly moist, but not very wet sand (layer thickness should be 7-8 cm). The next layer of cover (25–30 cm) should be represented by ground taken out of the pit. If desired, this shelter can be supplemented with a light canopy, presented in the form of a sheet of slate or roofing felt. This option is ideal for storing grape cuttings.

In a refrigerator

If you have a small amount of cuttings, then you can save them until spring using a household refrigerator. By the way, this option will be an excellent answer to the question of how to keep cuttings of roses.

The prepared shoots are pre-placed in a clean plastic bag and placed on the shelf of the refrigerator. It is desirable that the temperature indicators do not exceed +2 ° C, so if you have the opportunity to use the regulator, then you should not neglect them. Considering that there are no completely identical refrigerators, the specific storage location of the prepared segments will be different: it is better for someone to place the package directly under the freezer, and for someone in the compartment for greens and vegetables. The main thing to remember: the freezer and the refrigerator are different things, that is, your task is not to freeze the selected cuttings, but simply to keep them cool.

To maintain the desired humidity, you can pre-wrap the cuttings in a damp cloth or paper and only then pack them in bags. Alternatively, this solution is also suitable: first, cut the bundles with paraffin (completely or just the ends) and then wrap them in a moistened cloth and place them in a loosely tied plastic bag.

How to check the safety of cuttings in the spring

With the arrival of spring and the approach of the graft of cuttings prepared in the fall, the question arises: how to check their quality, that is, the level of preservation. First of all, carefully inspect each segment and conduct a series of simple tests. So, the cutting bark should be fresh and smooth, and if it is dry and shriveled, then it can be thrown away, because it is no longer suitable.

With a slight bending, viable cuttings should be elastic and sufficiently elastic, but if your specimen is cracked or broken, it could not survive the winter. With a cross-section, you should see the exposed wood of a light green color with all the signs of freshness, but if this is not the case, then it is better to immediately put the workpiece aside. The buds on a healthy stem usually fit snugly, and their scales are smooth and elastic to the touch.

If you cut such a kidney along, then the cut will be light green, without any brown inclusions.

If the cuttings meet all the above requirements, it remains to check them for possible frostbite. To do this, make fresh slices from the bottom and place each copy in a jar of clean water.

If your workpieces have survived the winter well, the water in the tank will remain completely transparent, but if this is not the case, you will see a yellowish-brownish liquid color. Knowing all the stages of storage and preparation of cuttings for future vaccinations, you will not only be able to diversify the taste characteristics of the fruit from your garden, but also increase the viability of the plants.

Adding an article to a new collection

Procurement and storage of grafts for vaccination is a delicate matter. You need to know about the many nuances that will help preserve the scion for the upcoming "operation".

The success of grafting a tree is 90% dependent on the quality of the graft (cutting or bud). Therefore, it is important to be able to properly cut and preserve cuttings until the moment of grafting. We will tell you in detail about all the nuances of this difficult business.

A stalk is a segment or a whole one-year lignified shoot with buds, which has grown in the current year.

Harvesting cuttings for spring grafting - when and how?

Twice a year you have the opportunity to prepare cuttings.

The first - at the end of autumn - the beginning of winter before the onset of steady frosts. Cut cuttings after leaf fall and the first frost. You will receive a “sleeping” cutting that will “wake up” in the spring, just in time for grafting.

Second - at the end of winter or in early spring. If the severe frosts are asleep, you can cut the cuttings on any given day. If not, make sure the shoots of the plant are not frozen out.

Cuttings can be cut in the summer, but in this case they are not stored and used on the same day for a green vaccination.

Most often, green chubuk grafted grapes and saplings of fruit trees

At the end of winter - early spring, only cuttings of pome seeds (apples and pears) can be harvested. Stone cuttings (cherries, plums, etc.) are best cut in autumn, because in winter, annual shoots of these trees very often freeze slightly.

General rules for cutting cuttings

  • Choose a healthy uterine tree (from 3 to 10 years old) of the variety you need, which bears fruit well.
  • Cut the cuttings from annual shoots that are located on the well-lit side of the crown. Remember, cuttings cut from the south side of the central part of the crown take root best.
  • Do not cut cuttings from thin shoots with poorly developed buds, as well as curves, damaged branches and tops.
  • Keep the selected shoot on weight and cut 30-40 centimeters cuttings with a well-sharpened knife or shears.
  • The cuttings should be as thick as a pencil (about 7 mm in diameter).
  • Do not touch the cut with your hands, otherwise the cuttings will take root poorly or, even worse, you can bring an infection.

Preparation of cuttings of cherry has its own characteristics. On the annual shoots of this plant there are a lot of buds, so you need to choose those branches, where the eyes are smaller, and cut cuttings 65-70 cm long.

Storage cuttings in the winter - what you need to remember?

When cuttings are cut, tie them in bundles and hang labels on them (for this purpose, labels made of cardboard, pasted over with scotch tape, or wooden signs) with the names of tree species. So you definitely do not confuse the planting material.

While keeping cuttings for vaccination, remember that they should not freeze or dry. Also, they should not get rodents. But just in case, prepare more cuttings than you plan to use, because they can not "survive" the winter in full force.

It is very important to clearly know how to store cuttings, so that they live to vaccinations. There are several ways - choose the one that is available to you.

1. Storage of cuttings in the snow

If in your region the snow cover is maintained throughout the winter, you can safely keep cuttings in the snow. Dig a small trench (shoulder) 30-35 cm deep, thickly cover it with fir spruce branches, lay out the cuttings, cover again with needles. The final touch is to cover it with earth, sawdust, or straw, and when snow falls, scribble it on top. Consider that the thickness of the snow cover over the hidden cuttings should be about 50 cm.

To prevent rodents from getting rid of the cuttings, wrap the planting material with fiberglass or ordinary nylon tights.

2. Storage of cuttings on the street in frozen sawdust

This method of storing the cuttings is suitable for western and south-western regions with long thaws. Choose a place on the north side of the plot and put plenty of wet sawdust on the ground. Place the cuttings on them, also sprinkle them with a layer of wet sawdust. This "coat" should stay in the cold. Then cover it with a 40-cm layer of already dry sawdust. The top layer is polyethylene.

Sawdust retains moisture well and thus creates an environment that is favorable for the storage of cuttings

To protect the cuttings from rodents, you can moisten sawdust not with water, but with a solution of carbolic acid (50 g per 10 l of water). Mice and rats will not like this "flavor".

3. Storage of cuttings in the cellar

Place the lower ends of the cut and sorted cuttings in sawdust (bundles of cuttings cut down to place in a plastic bag and sprinkle with damp sawdust without tying it) or in sand (place the cuttings in a wooden box with small holes and fill them with wet sand). So that the cuttings are not covered with mold or dried, make sure that the temperature in the cellar is from 0 to 1 ° C, and the humidity is in the range of 65-70%.

Cuttings should be stored at a temperature of 0 to 1 ° C

When storing grapes, the temperature should be from 1 to 4 ° C. In such conditions, Chubukov perfectly lie until mid-March.

An important condition is maintaining the normal moisture content of the substrate. How to determine the degree of moisture? Lightly squeeze the substrate in your hand - if it is wet, but water does not drip from it, everything is fine.

4. Storage of cuttings in the refrigerator

The most simple way to store. But, as a rule, in such conditions, the material for vaccination is stored no longer than until the end of February - in March, the kidneys "wake up".

Put the bundles of cuttings in a plastic bag, after wrapping them with a damp cloth, and place them in the refrigerator. If it is possible to regulate the temperature, set the value not higher than 2 ° С.

When storing the cuttings, it is important to ensure that they are sufficiently moist.

5. Unusual storage methods for cuttings.

If you show ingenuity, you can find a few more places in which the cuttings will continue until spring. For example, some gardeners wrap cuttings in a clean plastic bag or put it in a plastic bottle and hang it on the balcony, in the veranda, outside the window of a city apartment or on a tree growing near the house. The main thing is that for cuttings there should be a suitable temperature and humidity.

Corrupted cuttings - how to avoid it?

While cuttings are waiting in the wings, anything can happen to them. Of course, it’s not necessary to think about a bad result, but it is important to realize what danger lurks the cuttings in storage and how to avoid their damage.

Freezing - This is a fairly common problem when a gardener refreezes a graft due to his own ignorance or inattention. Frozen cuttings are slightly watery and glossy. Such planting material can not be used for vaccination. How to avoid damage to the cuttings?

It all depends on the method of storage: if you keep them outside, take care of a sufficient layer of protective material that will keep cuttings out of the cold. If in the cellar - install a thermometer there and monitor the temperature (optimal - 0-1 ° C) and in no case store the cuttings in the freezer.

Чтобы точно определить, подмерзли черенки или нет, проведите тест: сделайте свежие срезы и поместите черенок в емкость с водой. Посмотрите на цвет жидкости: если она осталась прозрачной, все нормально, если же приобрела желтый или коричневый оттенок – черенки перемерзли.

В емкости с пригодными для прививки черенками вода должна остаться прозрачной

Подопревание проявляется тем, что камбий или почки "просыпаются" и трогаются в рост. Почему это происходит? Из-за высокой влажности и положительной температуры. Cuttings in this difficult period for them can become an easy target for fungi and bacteria. To avoid this, be sure to monitor the temperature and do not allow high humidity.

Germination - cuttings can germinate if they are stored at high temperature (more than 5ºC). Such material for vaccination is also no longer suitable.

It looks like a germinated stalk

Moldy - this problem becomes relevant if condensation occurs on the cuttings, causing the appearance of mold. In this case, it is important to carry out urgent "reanimation" actions: wipe out the condensate and dip the cuttings in an aqueous solution of 1% iodine or in a 3% solution of copper sulphate.

Drying and soaking - two more likely "scenario" of events. Dried cuttings slightly crunch if bent. And soaked covered with mold (condensation appears on the walls of the package with such cuttings). If this happens, the cuttings will have to be thrown away - they are unsuitable for vaccination. Next time check the level of moisture under a protective coating.

It is time vaccinations!

The day before the vaccination, the cuttings must be brought into the room (if they were stored in frozen sawdust - for several days).

How to determine that cuttings are viable and suitable for vaccination? The ideal stalk looks like this: the bark is smooth, not shriveled, the elastic sprout when bent, the wood in the cut is green and fresh, the buds densely “sit” on the sprout, and their scales look smooth.

Have your cuttings passed this test? In this case, it's time to learn everything about tree grafting!

When you need to harvest cuttings

Cuttings for vaccination can be harvested three times a year:

  • in the fall (after the fall of the leaves is over and stable colds are established) they prepare cuttings for grafting cherries, plums, apricots and other stone fruits,
  • in winter (at the end of February - March), cuttings of apple, pear and other seed crops are harvested,
  • In the summer (at any time), green cuttings are harvested for rooting, grafting and breeding of bushes and trees that are not stored, but used in the coming days.

Cuttings in the winter can only be cut after frost has passed, because at temperatures below –10 ° C the wood becomes brittle and the uterine plant can be injured.

Flight harvesting cuttings for rooting

Most berry bushes reproduce perfectly by rooting cuttings, so if you see someone familiar a curious variety, you do not need to look for the same in the store - just ask a sprig and work a little over it.

Actinidia grafts immediately after flowering (end of May - beginning of June), cutting branches from the top of the shoot so that each has 2-3 buds. Cuttings are planted in the substrate under the shelter, which is removed not earlier than mid-August. After wintering the plant can be planted in a permanent place.

Grapes cuttings for reproduction during the autumn pruning (September-October), cutting the cuttings from the middle part of the vines that have been bred. Cuttings with 3–4 developed buds are stored throughout the winter, at the end of February they are placed in water for awakening, and then they are planted in the substrate.

Blueberry can be propagated by lignified and semi-lignified cuttings. In the first case, they are harvested at the end of winter - early spring, and from April they are germinated in a greenhouse in a special soil, having previously dipped the lower sections into powder for rooting. In the second case, the cuttings are harvested at the end of June - July and rooted immediately.

Gooseberry cuttings in the first half of July, when the growth of the bush slows down. Twigs are cut to a length of 20 cm (with 8-10 internodes) and immersed in Heteroauxin for 8 hours. Then they are rooted in a light substrate under shelter, deepening by 2 cm. The gooseberry is also well cutted by semi-woody (combined) shoots, but it is senseless to harvest its cuttings in a state of rest - they will not take root.

Currants can also be propagated by both green and lignified cuttings. In the first case, you need a greenhouse, and in the second you can do without it. Lignified currant cuttings are harvested in February-March. Their length should be about 15-20 cm, and the thickness of not less than 6 mm. After 12 hours in Heteroauxin or Kornevine, cuttings are rooted in nutrient soil, mulched and left - it is possible to plant in April or September.

Rooting lignified cuttings

If you decide to root green cuttings, harvest them when the length of a one-year gain is 10-12 cm. Soak the root formation in the stimulator for 12 hours and plant it in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and then spray plantings 3-4 times a day and keep the temperature in the shelter below 25 ° C during the day and 16 ° C at night.

Storage cuttings. Winter vaccination

Cuttings that will be used in the winter for inoculation in rooms can be stored in cellars at low temperatures (from 0 to -3 °). The cuttings are placed in boxes with wet sand or sawdust and covered with a metal grid from the top of the mice.

On a note: When harvesting cuttings of cherries, one must keep in mind that there are abundant flower buds on its annual shoots. Both for budding and grafting, you need to take longer shoots from saplings on which there are fewer flower buds.

The advice of an experienced gardener: Cuttings are stored better if the ends of the slices are smeared with garden pitch.

How to prepare cuttings for stock and store them

Grafting fruit trees and shrubs is, whatever one may say, an operation. And we need to prepare for the operation in advance: select and prepare a “patient” - stock, gather the necessary tools and materials, prepare the most important “organs” that, when “sewn”, should ennoble a modest outdated stock. These "important organs" are cuttings. Or, in other words, segments of annual shoots from those trees that you plan to plant in your garden.

Everything seems to be easy and understandable: cut the most beautiful-looking escape from the desired tree - here is the cutting ready for grafting. But no - not so simple. This article will be about the "cherenkov" intricacies.

GREAT SECRETS OF THE LITTLE SHIT

It would seem that such a piece of twigs? But we know that Nature has invested in a tiny piece of escape with 2-3 buds an amazing ability to produce a new full-fledged tree, transferring to it all the properties of the mother plant.

And if we decided to apply our hands to the creation of new varieties in our garden, then we must approach the preparation of this segment - the cutting - with full responsibility and with respect. Let's see what Nature tells us and the many years of experience of gardeners.

WHAT IS NECESSARY TO KNOW WHEN PREPARING THE VARIABLE CUTTINGS

Cuttings are cut from those tested for quality and yield of steadily fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. In this case, the gardener knows exactly what he will plant on the base plant.

For cuttings, well-matured annual shoots are selected.

It is best to choose shoots from the outer parts of the crown of trees, well illuminated by the sun.

The best side of the tree, from where cuttings will be cut, is southern. The shoots growing on the south side have short internodes and well developed eyes in the axils of the leaves.

The best quality cuttings - from the shoots of the middle tier. The upper shoots are too thick and powerful for a scion, and the lower ones are characterized by a small increase.

When harvesting cuttings of cherries, one should keep in mind: there are many flower buds on annual cherry shoots, so you should choose shoots from young trees, where flower buds are smaller, and make cuttings more authentic - about 65-70 cm.

The best stump preparation for the scion looks like this:

its length is 30-40 cm, thickness is like that of a simple pencil (about 7 mm),

he has short internodes,

growth buds are pronounced,

the number of developed kidneys is at least 4-5,

it is taken from a young fruiting tree (3-10 years).

SEVERAL COUNCILS 0T EXPERIMENTAL GARDENERS

Cuttings are best cut from trees that are regularly pruned. Such trees give strong growths, with well-formed apical and lateral buds.

Try to take shoots on cuttings with a two-year-old piece of wood, at least a small one (1-2 cm) - such cuttings are perfectly preserved and take root well.

If cuttings are cut from young trees, where the crown has not yet been fully formed, it is necessary to cut them from the branches that are planned to be removed in the spring (so as not to harm the tree itself).

Thin, insufficiently formed shoots with underdeveloped growth buds are not suitable for vaccination. In circumstances where there is no choice, it is better to use cuttings from the growth of the previous year, where there are good growth buds.

Cuttings are best preserved if the cuts are treated with garden pitch.

Try to make the number of cuttings a little more than you need according to the idea (all of a sudden it will not be possible to save them all).

WHEN AND HOW HAVE MADE PLATES

As a rule, cuttings for a scion with subsequent storage are harvested twice a year: in late autumn (early winter) and in late winter (early spring).

AUTUMN (IN THE BEGINNING OF WINTER)

Many gardeners prefer autumn harvesting. It is carried out after the leaf fall has ended, when the first significant frosts have already "hit" (about -15 ° C). By this time, the plants had already passed into a state of complete rest, the shoots were hardened, and along the way, a certain disinfection occurred (fungi and microbes die from frost).

The meaning of the autumn harvesting cuttings:

annual shoots that are taken for grafting will not freeze out in severe winter frosts, and thus the gardener has secured himself in advance from the risk of being left without graft material,

the stalk is preserved in that state of rest, which came in the autumn, until the very moment of grafting. Because for grafting you need just a "sleeping" stalk!

WINTER (AT THE BEGINNING OF SPRING)

If the cuttings were not prepared in the fall (and for beginning gardeners, this is a very common, understandable and understandable thing), they can be cut in late winter and early spring. Much is not needed for this: pruner, a little bit of garden pitch or paint and a good mood from the fact that they decided to start it!

In an area where winters are not too frosty, and the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, there should be no problems with the inoculum at all. In these parts, cuttings can be cut on any winter day.

If winter was accompanied by severe frosts, it will be necessary to check to see if the shoots have frozen out.

But for summer vaccinations, cuttings are cut directly at the time of the procedure. Here, not only storage, but every minute of delay is undesirable.

MAIN TASKS OF STORAGE OF THREES

Oh, this is also a whole story. Why do we need to cut the cuttings for several months before vaccination, and then keep them for so long? In order to "catch" the most successful time for the future of the scion: the buds on the shoot must sleep. And sleep until the day we need it - we ourselves will “wake up” them by the time of vaccination. Therefore, it is very important to keep cuttings at rest until the day of vaccination.

Let's look at the whole process of storing our cuttings step by step, from beginning to end.

Let's start with setting goals and objectives.

WHAT PROBLEMS DO WE BEFORE OURSELVES, LAYING STORES FOR STORAGE

Prevent freezing of cuttings.

Eliminate the possibility of drying.

Save a state of complete rest.

Prevent access by rodents.

Prevent spoilage cuttings.

Well, do not forget and do not confuse where the cuttings are.

Let's start with the last item. In order not to confuse the chopped cuttings, before putting them in storage, you need to tie the cuttings of each grade separately into bundles and attach to each bundle 2 labels on non-washing material, signed with resistant ink.

For example, you can use wooden labels or cardboard labels, signed with a marker and pasted over with transparent stationery tape. Why two? More guarantee that will continue.

Alternatively, this method: my neighbor-grandfather makes one label with the inscription of the variety, and the second - with the number of the beam. And in his notebook notes: 1 - Jonathan, 2 - Calvil Snow.

And to find out how to perform all the other tasks, go to the next section - about the rules for storing the cuttings.

WHERE AND HOW TO STORE THREADS

There are many ways of long-term storage of basement material - on the street, in the snow, indoors (basement, cellar, in an unheated room, on the veranda), in the refrigerator. Each gardener chooses the one that is most accessible and convenient for him.

ON THE STREET (IN SNOW)

In those regions of Russia where snow remains throughout the winter, the best place to store cuttings is in the snow, in the snow claps.

You can do this: dig a small trench to a depth of 30–35 cm in a dry, flood-free area, lay it out with coniferous branches, place cuttings, cover again with coniferous branches, and cover with earth, sawdust, straw or foliage. The thickness of the snow cover over the formed storage during the winter should be not less than half a meter.

It is possible and not to dig into the ground, but to store the packed cuttings directly in the snow, also under a layer of at least 50 cm. To prevent the snow from melting, sawdust is poured on it or straw is put on it. So under a layer of snow, cuttings will winter.

With proper cover of the collar, the temperature inside it will be about 0 °. If the shelter is tight, then the temperature is steady, despite the frost and thaw. The best place to store cuttings is to choose from the north side of the house (shed) - there the snow cover will last longer.

Cuttings from rodents can be protected by wrapping them with a layer of fiberglass, a plastic or metallic fine-meshed net or old nylon stockings / pantyhose.

ON THE STREET (WHOLESALE)

In areas where there are frequent strong and long thaws in winter, when the snow remains wet for a long time, cuttings can be stored in frozen sawdust.

This is done this way: on the north side of the house (outbuildings), harvested bundles of cuttings should be laid on wet sawdust, also covered with wet sawdust from above - and left in the cold. After namorozitsya 15-20 cm layer, on top of this coma still pour dry sawdust with a layer up to 40 centimeters.

All this construction needs to be covered with a polyethylene film that will protect the workpieces from getting wet. In this state, the cuttings will remain frozen until spring. A couple of days before grafting, a bale with cuttings can be brought into a room where it is gradually thawed.

This method of storage can be protected from rodents by wetting sawdust not with clean water, but with a solution of carbolic acid or creolin (at the rate of 50-60 g per bucket of water). According to gardeners, rodents bypass this perfume party.

To prevent the bark from sprouting from melting snow, you can place the cuttings in bulk plastic bottles with screw caps, in tubes, in polypropylene tubes or even just wrap bundles of a multi-layered food film, leaving an air cavity.

Prepared cuttings can be stored in a cold cellar. Old grandfather's method.

There are several storage options: in sackcloth, in sawdust or in sand, in peat, moss (sphagnum) or in another substrate, moistening it, if necessary.

In this case, the cuttings are cut down in dark plastic bags and sprinkled with wet sawdust (softwood is good for this). It is not necessary to tie the bags tightly so that the cuttings can breathe.

In this case, bundles of cuttings are laid horizontally in boxes with holes (for ventilation) and covered with moist sand.

Beginners-gardeners often have a question: how to determine whether the substrate in which cuttings are stored is sufficiently wet, whether it is too dry or wet. There is such a simple folk test: you pick up a substrate (sand, sawdust, and so on), squeeze it in your fist, and if moisture is felt, but water does not drip, then the humidity is “suitable,” normal.

For storage of cuttings in the cellar, it is desirable to maintain the temperature from -2 ° C to + 1 ° C. It is better, of course, that the temperature was always 0 ° C and slightly lower, but in the cellar, besides the cuttings, vegetables and fruits are also stored, therefore it is hardly advisable to transfer the entire premises to minus mode. Temperature 0. + 2 ° С - acceptable for all.

It is advisable to place a thermometer in the basement in order to monitor and regulate the temperature in a timely manner, preventing neither overheating nor overcooling of the cuttings. When the temperature rises above + 3 ° C, swelling of the kidneys may begin, and the cuttings will become unsuitable for inoculation.

The humidity of the air in the cellar should be at the level of 65-70%. If the humidity needs to be increased, it is enough to put a bucket of water on the floor.

Note! Experienced gardeners note that storage in the cellar is suitable for cuttings of pome crops and grapes, but sometimes it gives poor results on stone fruit.

IN THE HOME REFRIGERATOR

Prepared cuttings (bound and signed) should be placed in a clean plastic bag (or even two) and put in the refrigerator. If it is possible to set the temperature, it is good to set it not higher than + 2 ° С. This storage option is suitable if you have a few cuttings.

All refrigerators are different, so everyone will have their own storage place: someone right under the freezer, someone in the vegetable and green compartment. The main thing is to remember: the refrigerator and freezer are different things. And the point of storing the cuttings is not to freeze them, but to keep them chilled!

Некоторые садоводы советуют положить в пакет влажную чистую ткань или вообще сначала завернуть черенки во влажную ткань или бумагу, а потом упаковать в пакеты. Это поможет поддерживать необходимую влажность воздуха.

Другой вариант – черенки запарафинировать полностью или только с концов, затем обернуть в увлажнённую ткань или бумагу и в таком виде поместить в полиэтиленовый пакет, который завязать неплотно, оставив небольшое отверстие для воздухообмена.

As a rule, in the lower compartment of the refrigerator, the temperature is kept around +2. + 4 ° C. Therefore, it is possible to store cuttings in such conditions until the end of February. But in March, the buds are already starting to grow, especially in stone fruits (plum, plum, apricot and others), so it is difficult to keep them in the refrigerator.

OTHER "PEOPLE" STORAGE

Gardeners are resourceful and creative people. Harvested cuttings they manage to save and suspended on the balcony (veranda), and outside the window of a city apartment in a grid, and suspended in a tree. Of course, the cuttings are kept insulated and wrapped in a necessarily clean package.

And some gardeners for the “greater fidelity” store especially valuable cuttings in large potatoes. Just stick the cuttings in it, put it in a bag - and in the cold!

So that savvy and cold calculation ("cold calculation" is just twice in the subject!) Can significantly expand the boundaries of our gardening possibilities.

HOW TO AVOID DAMAGES OF THE CUTS DURING STORAGE

What can happen with vaccine over long months of storage? Anything: cuttings can become moldy, support, soak, or dry. In any of these cases, they will become unsuitable for vaccination.

It happens when exposed to low temperatures. Frozen cuttings are no longer suitable for vaccination. To avoid this, you need to ensure that the cuttings are under a sufficient layer of snow (sawdust, foliage, land, etc.). Caution: do not store cuttings in the freezer!

Frozen can be frozen cuttings. Or shoots infected with fungal infections (moniliosis, for example). During storage, these cuttings die and naturally dry out. To avoid this, you need to put in storage of healthy material.

It can occur when, due to excessive humidity and insufficiently low temperature, the kidneys or cambium begin to leave the state of rest. At this moment, they are practically defenseless in front of fungi and bacteria, which very quickly damage tissues. To avoid this, it is necessary to comply with the temperature and avoid excessive humidity.

It occurs if condensate forms on the cuttings - it provokes the development of mold on the bark. To prevent this, it is necessary to avoid condensation. When the first signs of mold appear, it is necessary to remove condensate and redeem cuttings in an aqueous solution of alcohol iodine (1%) or in a 3% solution of copper sulphate.

If the cuttings are in water for a long time, they die from lack of oxygen.

May occur if the ambient temperature has risen to the +4 mark. + 6 ° C. Unfortunately, this indicates failure - sprouted cuttings for vaccination are no longer suitable.

In any case, if the cuttings are stored in a room - a cellar or a refrigerator, on a veranda or balcony - periodically (at least once every 3-4 weeks) it is necessary to check their condition. If necessary, moisten the cloth, sand or sawdust, clean the mold and disinfect, correct the temperature and so on.

WHEN THE TIME WILL BE GIVEN

The grafting of fruit trees is usually started in April (May), when active sap flow begins in the stock. For successful accretion of cuttings with a stock, it is very important that the graft is still at rest, and the stock is already in an active state.

Therefore, cuttings are kept in cold storage until the last moment! And you need to get them out of such shelter no earlier than 24 hours before vaccination. The exception will be those cuttings that were stored in frozen sawdust - they “fall into the world of God” with the whole frozen clod for two, or even three days, because natural thawing takes a long time.

For reference. First, seed crops are planted (plum, cherry, sweet cherry), and only then seed crops (apples, pears) are planted. This is due to the fact that in stone fruit cultures, sap flow begins earlier.

HOW TO CHECK THE PRESERVATION OF THREES

The bark of the cutting must be fresh and smooth. If it is wrinkled or looks dry, the cutting may have died.

When bent, the cutting must be resilient and rather elastic. If, when trying to bend, the stalk cracked and broke, he did not survive the winter.

With a cross-section, exposed wood should be light green and fresh. If it is brown and lifeless - the cutting is not suitable for vaccination.

The buds should sit tight on the handle.

The scales of the kidneys in appearance should be smooth, to the touch - elastic.

When the kidney is cut along the cut, it should be green (light green), without any brown inclusions.

FROZEN TEST

To determine whether the cuttings are frozen, you need to carry out a test: make fresh sections below and place in a container with clean water. If the cuttings are healthy and well preserved, the water will remain clear, and if they are frozen, the water will turn a yellowish-brown color.

So we went over the topic of harvesting and storage of cuttings for our future vaccinations.

As it turned out, not the gods burn pots, everything in our power and capabilities. There would be a desire. And it will surely appear, you only need to think about the wonderful prospects of taking a rich harvest from amazing apple-pears and plum-apricots at your summer cottage!

(Ural gardener №№ 51-52, December 2015)

How to prepare cuttings is described in other articles on the title page "Vaccinations: technology."

Procurement of cuttings for storage

First you need to know how to harvest cuttings:

  • the length of the cutting should be 30-40 cm, and the diameter should be about 7 mm,
  • cuttings for grafting fruit trees should be cut from annual shoots growing on the south side of the tree in the center of the crown,
  • uterine plant must be an adult (from 3 to 10 years), healthy and bear fruit well,
  • cutting of cuttings is carried out with a sharp pruner or a knife, and the cut points are not touched by hands so as not to cause an infection,
  • when harvesting cuttings in spring, you need to make sure that the branch does not freeze, avoid thin, crooked shoots and tops.

Remember, when harvesting cuttings in the fall or winter until the time of rooting and grafting, not all of them will survive, therefore, harvest a third more than the required amount.

Preparation of cuttings for storage is simple and consists of binding and labeling. Collect cuttings from one plant in a bundle, tie them with a string and attach a tag to the rope with the name of the variety or type of mother plant - this will allow you not to confuse the material for grafting and planting in the spring.

Storage methods for cuttings

What tricks did not come up with gardeners to save the harvested stem cuttings until the new season. Someone puts them in the fridge, someone digs them in the garden, but we will tell only about those methods that allow you to save the bulk of the harvested material before grafting and reproduction.

Storage of cuttings in the snow collar

If you do not plan to check the cuttings during the entire cold season, then storage in the snow collar is the best option. To create a vault, dig a 30-35 cm deep hole on an elevated shaded area. Lay a thick (5-7 cm) layer of lapnik at its bottom, place cuttings on top and cover it with lapniknik. After that, fill the pit with earth, and with the advent of snow, cover it with a layer of up to 50 cm.

Storage of cuttings in sawdust

In the western and south-western regions of Russia with frequent thaws, frozen sawdust will be the best shelter. Pour a layer of wet sawdust or shavings 10–15 cm thick on the north side of the plot, lay the cuttings, cover everything from above with the same layer of sawdust, and pour 30–40 cm of dry sawdust on top. All of this, close the plastic and leave for the winter.

To prevent rodents from encroaching on your cuttings, soak sawdust not with water, but with a solution of carbolic acid (50 g per 10 l of water).

Storage of cuttings in the barrel

If you have a bulk fuel barrel and a shadowy non-heated plot in the country house, then you can organize a stationary storage for cuttings with an easy system for checking their condition. To do this, bury the barrel in the ground, pre-drilled in its bottom a few holes. At the bottom of the barrel lay 10-15 bottles of frozen water, on top - open bags with cuttings. Close the barrel "cork" of sawdust or shavings, wrapped in a spunbond, and the top cover. Periodically (once every 2-3 weeks) check the cuttings and update the bottles with melted water.

Storage of cuttings in the cellar

If you have a cellar or cellar, in which the temperature from 0 to 1 ° C and the humidity in the range of 65-70% during the whole winter, then the cuttings can be stored there. Put them in slices down in a box with wet sand or sawdust, and periodically spray, not allowing the substrate to dry.

Moldy molds

The appearance of mold contributes to the stagnation of condensate in the storage. To avoid this, moisture should be regularly removed. If the mold has already appeared, it is urgent to wipe the cuttings, dip them in an aqueous solution of 1% iodine or in a 3% solution of copper sulphate, and then place them in a new clean container for further storage.

Almost all these types of damage suggest that the material is no longer suitable for further reproduction - cuttings will have to be thrown away.

Big Secrets of a Little Stalk

It would seem that such a piece of twigs? But we know that in a tiny piece of escape with 2-3 buds, Nature has invested an amazing ability to give birth to a new full-fledged tree, transferring to it all the properties of the mother plant.


Cuttings are cut from those tested for quality and yield of fruit bearing trees and shrubs.

And if we decided to put our hands on the creation of new varieties in our garden, then we must approach the preparation of the cutting with full responsibility and respect. Let's see what Nature tells us and many years of experience gardeners.

What you need to know about harvesting cuttings for vaccination:

  • cuttings are cut from steadily fruit-bearing trees and shrubs tested for grade and yield. In this case, the gardener knows exactly what he will plant on the base plant,
  • for cuttings choose well-ripened annual shoots,
  • It is best to take shoots from the outer parts of the crown of trees, well illuminated by the sun.

It is best to choose shoots from the outer parts of the crown of trees, well lit by the sun.

  • The best side of the tree, from where cuttings will be cut, is southern. Shoots growing on the south side usually have short internodes and well developed eyes in the axils of the leaves,
  • the best quality cuttings - from the shoots of the middle tier. The upper shoots are too thick and powerful for a scion, and the lower ones are characterized by a small increase,
  • when harvesting cuttings of cherries, remember: there are many flower buds on annual cherry shoots, so you should choose shoots from young trees, where flower buds are smaller, and make cuttings more authentic - about 65-70 cm.

Some tips from experienced gardeners

  • cuttings are best cut from trees that are regularly pruned. Such trees give strong growths with well-formed apical and lateral buds,
  • Try to take shoots on cuttings with a two-year-old piece of wood, at least small (1-2 cm), such cuttings are perfectly preserved and take root well,
  • if cuttings are cut from young trees, where the crown has not yet fully formed, it is necessary to cut them from the branches that are planned to be removed in the spring (so as not to harm the tree itself),

Cuttings are best cut from trees that are regularly pruned.

  • thin, underdeveloped shoots with underdeveloped growth buds are not suitable for vaccination. In circumstances where there is no choice, it is better to use cuttings from the growth of the previous year, where there are good growth buds,
  • cuttings will be better preserved if the cuts are treated with garden pitch,
  • Try to make the number of cuttings a little more than you need according to the idea (all of a sudden, not everything can be saved).

In the fall (early winter)

Many gardeners prefer autumn harvesting. It is carried out after the fall of the leaves, when the first significant frost hit (about -15 ° C). By this time, the plants had already passed into a state of complete rest, the shoots were hardened, and a certain disinfection occurred (fungi and microbes die from frost).

The meaning of the autumn harvesting cuttings:

  • annual shoots, which are taken for vaccination, will not freeze out in severe winter frosts - the gardener has secured himself in advance from the risk of being left without a graft material,
  • the stalk is preserved in that state of rest, which came in the autumn, until the very moment of grafting. Because for vaccination you need exactly a "sleeping" stalk!

Many gardeners prefer autumn harvesting

How to prepare cuttings in the winter, how to do it, what to look for, in the following video tells gardener Alexey Nikolaevich Malyshev:

If the cuttings were not prepared in the fall (and for novice gardeners, this is a very common, understandable and understandable thing), they can be cut in late winter and early spring. A lot of things are not needed for this: pruner, a little bit of garden pitch or paint and good mood because they decided to start it!

In winter (early spring)

In an area where winters are not too frosty, and the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, there should be no problems with the inoculum at all. In these parts, cuttings can be cut on any winter day.


If the cuttings were not prepared in the fall, they can be cut even now - at the end of winter and in early spring

If winter was accompanied by severe frosts, it will be necessary to check to see if the shoots have frozen out.

But for summer vaccinations, cuttings are cut directly at the time of the procedure.


For summer vaccinations, cuttings are cut directly at the time of the procedure.

Here, not only storage, but every minute of delay is undesirable.

The main tasks of storage cuttings

Oh, this is also a whole story) Why do we need to cut the cuttings several months before vaccination, and then keep them for so long? In order to "catch" the most successful time for the future of the scion: the buds on the shoot must sleep. And sleep until the day we need, and we ourselves will “wake up” them by the time of vaccination. Therefore, it is very important to keep cuttings at rest until the day of vaccination.

Let's look at the whole process of storing our cuttings step by step, from beginning to end. Let's start with setting goals and objectives.

What tasks we set for ourselves, putting the cuttings in storage:

  • prevent freezing,
  • eliminate the possibility of drying,
  • maintain a state of complete rest
  • prevent rodents from accessing
  • prevent damage to cuttings
  • Well, do not forget (not to be confused), where are the cuttings.

Let's start with the last item. Before you put them in storage, you need to tie the cuttings of each grade in separate bundles, attach to each of 2 labels on non-washing material, signed with resistant ink.

For example, you can use wooden or cardboard plates, signed with a marker (paste) and pasted over with transparent stationery tape. Why two? More guarantee that will continue)

Alternatively, this method: my neighbor-grandfather makes one label with the inscription varieties, the second - with the number of the beam. And in his notebook notes: 1 - 'Jonathan', 2 - 'Snow Calvil'.

And to find out how to perform all the other tasks, go to the next section - about the rules for storing the cuttings.

On the street (in the snow)

In those regions of Russia where snow remains throughout the winter, the best place to store cuttings in the snow is in snow claps.


Storage of cuttings in the snow. Photos from 4living.ru

You can do this: dig a small trench to a depth of 30–35 cm in a dry, flood-free place, lay it out with coniferous branches, place cuttings, cover with spruce leaves and cover it with earth, sawdust, straw or foliage. The thickness of the snow cover over the formed storage during the winter should be not less than half a meter.

It is possible and not to dig into the ground, but to store the packed cuttings directly in the snow, also under a layer of at least 50 cm. To prevent the snow from melting, sawdust is poured on it or straw is put on it. So under a layer of snow, cuttings will winter.

With proper cover of the collar, the temperature inside it will be about 0 ° C. If the shelter is tight, then the temperature is steady, despite the frost and thaw. The best place to store cuttings is to choose from the north side of the house (shed) - there the snow cover will last longer.

You can protect cuttings from rodents by wrapping them with a layer of fiberglass, a plastic or metallic fine-meshed net or old nylon stockings (pantyhose).

On the street (in sawdust)

In the western and south-western regions, where in winter strong and long thaws are frequent, when the snow remains wet for a long time, cuttings can be stored in frozen sawdust.


You can store cuttings in frozen sawdust

It is done this way: on the north side of the house (utility room), the harvested bundles of cuttings should be laid on wet sawdust, from above, also covered with wet sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and left in the cold. After the wet sawdust is frozen, sprinkle dry sawdust with a layer up to 40 cm above.

All this construction needs to be covered with a polyethylene film that will protect the workpieces from getting wet. In such a frozen state, the cuttings will remain until spring. A couple of days before grafting, a bale with cuttings can be brought into a room where it is gradually thawed.

От грызунов при этом способе хранения можно обезопаситься, смочив опилки не чистой водой, а раствором карболки или креолина (из расчёта 50-60 г на ведро воды). Как утверждают садоводы, грызуны обходят такой парфюм стороной)

To prevent the bark from sprouting from melting snow, you can place the cuttings in bulky plastic bottles with screw caps, in tubes, in polypropylene pipes or even simply layered bundles of food film, leaving an air cavity.

Prepared cuttings can be stored in a cold cellar, the old old-fashioned method. There are several options: in sackcloth, in sawdust or in sand, in peat, moss (sphagnum) or in another substrate, moistening it as needed.

In sawdust: bundles of cuttings are placed in slices down in dark plastic bags and powdered with wet sawdust (softwood is good for this). Packages do not need to tie tightly so that the cuttings can breathe.


Sawdust

In sand:
bundles of cuttings are laid horizontally in boxes with holes (for ventilation) and covered with wet sand.

Beginners-gardeners often have a question: how to determine whether the substrate in which cuttings are stored is sufficiently wet, whether it is too dry or wet. There is such a simple folk test: you pick up the substrate with your hand (sand, sawdust, and so on), squeeze it in your fist and, if moisture is felt, but water does not drip - the humidity is suitable, normal.

For storage of cuttings in the cellar, it is desirable to maintain the temperature from -2 ° C to 0. +1 ° C. It is better, of course, that it should always be 0 ° C or slightly lower, but in the cellar, besides cuttings, vegetables and fruits are also stored, therefore it is hardly advisable to transfer the entire premises to minus mode. Ttemperature 0 ° C. + 2 ° С - acceptable mode for all.

But for grapes cuttings, the storage temperature is slightly different: optimally for them - always just above 0 ° С. For example, with +0. + 4 ° C Chubukov easily stored until mid-March.

It is advisable to place a thermometer in the basement in order to monitor and regulate the temperature in a timely manner, preventing neither overheating nor overcooling of the cuttings. When the temperature rises above + 3 ° C, swelling of the kidneys may begin, and the cuttings will become unsuitable for inoculation.


It is advisable to place a thermometer in the basement.

The humidity of the air in the cellar should be at the level of 65-70%. If the humidity needs to be increased, it is enough to put a bucket of water on the floor.

Note! Experienced gardeners note that storage in the cellar is suitable for cuttings of pome crops and grapes, but sometimes gives poor results on stone fruit.

In the home refrigerator

Prepared cuttings (bound and signed) should be placed in a clean plastic bag (or even two) and put in the refrigerator. If it is possible to regulate the temperature, it is good to set it not higher than + 2 ° С. This storage option is suitable if the cuttings are few.


You can store cuttings in the refrigerator

All refrigerators are different, so everyone will have their own storage place: someone right under the freezer, someone in the vegetable and green compartment. The main thing is to remember: a refrigerator and a freezer are different things. And the sense of placing the cuttings there is not to freeze them, but to keep them chilled!

Some gardeners are advised to put a damp, clean cloth in a bag or even wrap the cuttings in a damp cloth or paper first, and then pack them in bags. This will help maintain the necessary humidity.

Another option is to wax the cuttings completely or just from the ends, then wrap in a moistened cloth or paper, and in this form be placed in a plastic bag that is loosely tied, leaving a small hole for air exchange.


As a rule, in the lower compartment of the refrigerator, cuttings can be stored until the end of February.

As a rule, in the lower compartment of the refrigerator, the temperature is kept around +2. + 4 ° C. Therefore, until about the end of February, it is possible to store cuttings in such conditions. But in March, the buds are already starting to grow, especially in stone fruits (plum, plum, apricot and others), so it is difficult to keep them in the refrigerator.

Other folk storage methods

Gardeners are resourceful and creative people. Harvested cuttings they manage to save and on the balcony (veranda), and outside the window of a city apartment in a grid, and suspended from a tree. Needless to say, the cuttings are kept insulated and wrapped in a package (be sure to clean!).


You can store cuttings in such a container, photo from poiskidey.ru

For greater loyalty, some gardeners keep especially valuable cuttings in large potatoes: they simply stick cuttings into it, put it in a bag and - in the cold!

This is how sharpness and cold calculation (“cold calculation” is just twice in the subject!) Can significantly expand the boundaries of our gardening possibilities :)

How to avoid deterioration of cuttings during storage

What can happen with vaccine over long months of storage? Anything: cuttings can become moldy, support, soak, or dry. In any of these cases, they will become unsuitable for vaccination.

Freezing: happens when exposed to low temperatures. Frozen cuttings are no longer suitable for vaccination. To avoid this, you need to make sure that the cuttings are under a sufficient layer of snow (sawdust, leaves, earth, and so on). Warning: Do not store cuttings in the freezer!

Drying: can dry out frozen cuttings. Or shoots infected with fungal infections (for example, miliosis). During storage, these cuttings die and naturally dry out. To avoid this, you need to put in storage of healthy material.

Heating: can occur when, due to excessive humidity and insufficiently low temperature, the kidneys or cambium begin to leave the state of rest. At this moment, they are practically defenseless in front of mushrooms and bacteria, which very quickly damage tissues. To avoid this, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime, to avoid excessive humidity.

Moldy: occurs when condensation forms on the cuttings - it provokes the development of mold on the bark. To prevent this, it is necessary to avoid condensation. When the first signs of mold appear, it is necessary to remove the condensate and wash the cuttings in an aqueous solution of alcohol iodine (1%) or in a 3% solution of copper sulphate.

Draining: if the cuttings are in water for a long time, they die from lack of oxygen.

Germination: can occur if the ambient temperature has risen to +4. +6 ° C. Unfortunately, this indicates failure - sprouted cuttings for vaccination are no longer suitable.

In any case, if the cuttings are stored in the room (cellar or refrigerator, on the veranda or balcony), periodically (at least once every 3-4 weeks) it is necessary to check their condition. If necessary, moisten the cloth, sand or sawdust, clean the mold and disinfect, correct the temperature and so on.

When is the vaccination time

The grafting of fruit trees is usually started in April (May), when active sap flow begins in the stock. For the successful accretion of the cutting (graft) with the stock, it is very important that the graft is still at rest, and the stock is already in an active state.

Therefore, cuttings are kept in cold storage until the last moment! And it is necessary to get them out of such shelter a day before vaccination, not earlier. The exception will be those cuttings that were stored in frozen sawdust - they “get into the world of God” with the whole frozen lump for two (or even three) days, because natural thawing takes a long time.


For successful accretion of cuttings with a stock, it is very important that the graft is still at rest, and the stock is already in an active state.

For reference. In stone fruit cultures, sap flow begins earlier, therefore, seed grasses (plums, cherries, cherries) are grafted first, and then seed seeds are planted (apples, pears).

How to check the safety of cuttings:

  • bark cutting should be fresh and smooth. If it is wrinkled or looks dry, the cutting may have died
  • when bent, the cutting must be resilient and rather elastic. If, when trying to bend, the stalk cracked and broke, he did not survive the winter,
  • in cross-section, exposed wood should be light green and fresh. If it is brown and lifeless - the cutting is not suitable for vaccination,
  • buds should sit tight on the handle
  • kidney scales should be smooth in appearance, elastic to the touch,
  • when the kidney is cut along the cut, it should be green (light green), without any brown inclusions.

Frostbite test

To determine if the cuttings are frozen, you need to carry out a test: make fresh sections below and place in a container with clean water. If the cuttings are healthy and well preserved, the water will remain clear, and if they are frozen slightly, the water will turn a yellowish-brown color.

So we reviewed all the stages of preparation and storage of cuttings for our future vaccinations. As it turned out - not the gods burn the pots, everything in our power and capabilities, there would be a desire. And it will surely appear, one has only to think about the wonderful prospects of taking a rich harvest from amazing apple-prawns and creamer at their summer cottage!

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