General information

Timing of grafting trees in the summer and in other seasons: how to choose correctly and not to be late

Summer grafting of trees by budding begins with a pear, and then transferred to an apple tree (first summer varieties). Simultaneously with the apple tree, it is also possible to plant trees of cherry and apricot. Next, go to the quince and plum. For cherries and peaches, vaccination should be made at a later date (at the end of August - beginning of September). To increase the survival rate of stock and scion, use "close relatives".

10 days before budding, we water the soil, after which we break through. Thanks to this agrotechnical event, the bark will be separated much easier and easier.

3 days before the vaccination on the shtambik of a seed or clone stock, we remove all lateral branches (up to 30 cm). And before the very immediate process of budding, with a damp cloth, wipe the base of the stem of the seedling stock or the branch of the tree that we will budge.

Cuttings for budding are also cut before direct inoculation (in the morning or evening). In this case, the shoots should be annual, well-matured, sprouting from the south side of the crown, so that they do not crack during bending, as well as with smooth bark.

The inoculation carried out in summer can be divided into two types: for the crown in the T - shaped incision and budding in the bed.

Budding for the crown

When budding for the crown, it is necessary to make a T - shaped incision of the bark on the north side of the stem of the stock. We make an incision on the seed stock at a height of 6 - 12 cm, on a clone one - at a height of 15 - 20 cm. First of all, a transverse incision should be made (length 1.5 cm), followed by a longitudinal incision (up to 3 cm). Then the bark is carefully separated from the wood with a knife.

From the graft escape we cut off the leafless shield. We do this with a sharp knife, and very carefully. In the direction of shoot growth, cut a graft peephole with a small area of ​​bark. The wood in the center should not be too thick, but its width should be 0.5 cm. The length of the shield is 3 cm, while the eye must also be located in the middle.

Gently pull the shield from the edge of the knife into the cut of the rootstock bark. This area must be tied with a polyethylene tape 25–30 cm long and about 10 cm wide. Eyes must be tied upwards.

Budding in priklad

Using a sharp knife, cut a strip of bark with a green layer between bark and wood (cadmium) 3 cm long on the stock from top to bottom. Then this strip of bark is cut transversely at a distance of 1.5 cm from the lower end of the longitudinal section. The flap is inserted by the tongue, compressed and tied with a film.

It is best to produce summer vaccination before 10 am, or after 4 pm. It is not recommended to perform this procedure in windy, rainy or too hot weather.

After two weeks, it will be possible to test the grafted plant for survival. That is, if with a light touch the stalk is separated from the shield, then you can congratulate you, the vaccination was successful. But, and in cases if the peephole did not catch on, you can repeat the budding, but only if you have time to meet the deadline for the summer vaccination.

A month after budding cut and remove the harness. The following spring, the shoot over the grafted eye is cut off, leaving a knot 20 cm long. A young shoot that develops from the grafted eye is tied to the bitch. Always remove old shoots around the vaccine, this will eliminate competition.

Purpose of vaccinations

Grafting trees has many advantages. It is carried out not only to reproduce new varieties of trees, but also to save space in the garden, to correct the shape of the crown, rejuvenate and improve the general condition of the plants in the garden.

Experienced gardeners know that the best time to graft fruit trees in the summer. Nevertheless, many successfully carry out this procedure at another time of the year, using different methods.

First of all, it is necessary to study the compatibility of the grafted parts of trees - the graft and the rootstock. For example, grafting pears on a birch tree will be ineffective, but if you plant an apple tree on an apple tree or a pear tree, you can get a new variety of fruiting trees.

Fruit tree grafting time in summer

The best time for this procedure is July-August. First of all, graft pears, then apples, plums and cherries. Grafting peaches and apricots is held at a later date - in August. Scion preparation is carried out in advance of the treatment of the plantations. At this time of year trees are planted with a green bud or shoots of the current year.

Grafting trees in the fall

To say that autumn is the best time to plant trees is difficult. Since at this time of the year gardeners are more engaged in preparing material for breeding and treating trees before wintering. It is worth remembering that if you decide to carry out such a procedure at this time, then you should not delay it. Everything needs to be done before the onset of frost.

In the middle lane and in the suburbs inoculation of trees carried out in the summer. This is the best time to conduct such an operation in cool climates. By winter, the plants have time to grow and grow acclimatized.

Grafting of garden trees in winter

As you know, in winter all the plants in the garden arrive at rest, therefore, it is not recommended to carry out any procedures for rejuvenation, transplantation, etc. Grafting trees in winter can be quite successful, if at the time of this procedure to maintain the required temperature.

Small frosts do not affect the survival of the graft. The effectiveness of such an operation is possible at a temperature not lower than -2 degrees. At lower temperatures, the plant may die. After work, the tree is well wrapped in grafting sites to protect from the cold.

The result of such a manipulation can be observed only in spring or summer. At this time of year, trees are grafted with cuttings, which are harvested in the autumn.

Grafting fruit trees in spring

Most gardeners spend this manipulation in the spring, because this time of the year is the best time to work in the country. For this purpose, they use cuttings on which the buds have not yet had time to swell. This is very important, if you are late with this, then the procedure will have to be postponed for the summer.

It is during this period of the year that the best results can be achieved after this manipulation. Before embarking on this process, it is necessary to water the tree abundantly, then to break through the soil around it. This will improve air circulation and soil moisture.
Thus, the roots of trees nourish the necessary substances, oxygen, will accelerate their growth and development.

What are the advantages of "vaccination" work?

  1. This is the only real way to get 100% of the variety that you have your eye on.
  2. By grafting the cutting you need, you almost instantly get a sufficiently developed branch ready to bear fruit. It will grow - your crop will grow.
  3. The grafted graft "prefers" to throw young twigs, and not just grow higher. Such a compact crown is a real pleasure for the owner of the garden.
  4. Sometimes, a varietal tree from a nursery is inexplicably depressed, and the wild stock feels beautiful. No need to buy a new tree! We transform it with the help of the "wild" stock graft into a strong standard tree.
  5. It is also possible to use the vaccination for collecting varieties using the “cutting handle” method without cutting it off from the mother branch.
  6. The construction of a powerful, rich crown with the help of additional grafting branches is a very simple grateful business.
  7. If a tree requires a friend of another sex (dioecious), it is easy to plant this friend with the help of an inoculation directly on it on one stem.
  8. With the help of simple actions you can rejuvenate a tree or help it survive if its bark is badly damaged.
  9. Grafting a tall tree on a dwarf stock will give a significant reduction in the growth of the tree, making it convenient to care for and harvest. What is not a dream of any gardener?

These are common advantages.

What advantages does the summer vaccination give us?

  1. We accelerate the cultivation of a tree in one year.
  2. There is no risk to “overdo” cuttings, as they do not require storage: cut today, today, and hoisted.
  3. If the vaccination failed, there is time to repeat it.
  4. Use all selected cuttings for the stock, especially if they are scarce.
  5. In the summer, callus grows faster - the fabric at the base of the cuttings at the place where the rootstock grows together, making the grafting site durable and often even invisible.
  6. The graft of the summer vaccination, if it is cut off from the “heel” of last year’s bark, takes root almost 100%, while the spring stock can simply rot.

In large nursery gardens, summer inoculation is almost never used because of the high costs of inoculum, there is more practice of spring budding (inoculation with a bud-eye).

But for your garden, the use of summer vaccinations by cuttings over the bark with a cut or a green sprig in the garden is a very effective way of not only obtaining the desired varieties of fruit trees, but also a way of rejuvenating the garden as a whole.

There are several rules for summer vaccinations.

Stable warm sun and good maternal roots are necessary conditions for a successful vaccination. The dates for the first operation “Summer Vaccination” can vary from the end of May to the beginning of June, everything will depend on the activity of sap flow in the rootstock. You can learn about time X by the first green tips in the buds of the rootstock - as soon as they appear, it means you can inoculate.

Now the sleeper is still able to wake up and grow, feeding on the juice of the rootstock, coming through the resulting connective tissue.

In addition, during the period of active sap flow, just before opening the kidneys, the bark is easily separated from the wood itself, the cambium (the building layer between the bark and wood) is very active, and the juice pressure from the inside will ensure rapid tissue formation.

Before you start cutting, you need to clearly define what place we will vaccinate so desired variety. Vaccination should be promising!

It is impossible to inoculate in the center or in the lower part of the crown, in the middle or at the ends of mature branches, at a high height of the trunk. A tall shtamb is not needed at all: you will spend time cutting down its own shoots, and your varietal tree will not receive enough food. In addition, the wounds you caused to the stem when cutting shoots are an open invitation to dinner for various parasites and diseases.

The graft should be the absolute leader in the crown. What does it mean? That the previous branch or trunk must be completely removed. Then your cutting will have a real prospect, and you have a real hope for the expected yield.

It is better to perform the summer vaccination on a cloudy, but not rainy day, in the morning or closer to dusk, all implantation operations should be performed quickly and efficiently, as in a real surgical operation, and the knife or saw should be sharpened so that they can “shave”. Otherwise, the cambium will not receive a proper signal to seal the wound equally smoothly, along the entire length of the slice.

The place of introduction of the vaccination should be shaded from direct sunlight and be sure to ensure that the implanted sprout is tightly tied with the stock with strong bast or wide string, and the area of ​​hemp is carefully smeared with garden pitch or soft garden putty.

All this also applies to the graft bridging, which literally saves trees from destruction with a large amount of damage to the bark. Only the inoculation will not be up and not to the side, but will resemble with its appearance the ears of a pot-bellied pot, since the lower part of the cutting and the upper will go under the bark of the tree, as if connecting the shores-edges between a wide section of the bare trunk that has lost the bark.

The essence of the procedure

The graft is based on the ability of trees to protect their integrity, possibly due to the cambium - the active substance that is under the bark.

In this procedure, using a graft (what we plan to plant) and a stock (what we graft onto) specially made cuts are superimposed on each other so that the cambium layers are joined. Then they are pressed tightly against each other and give time for accretion.

Grafting fruit trees allows you to:

  • preserve the value of the variety that is lost during pollination,
  • about half the time to start fruiting,
  • if you choose the right stock, you can grow a dwarf specimen, then the fruit will ripen faster,
  • You can grow varieties that are not adapted to your climatic conditions, but due to the rootstock with well-developed roots, the tree can become resistant to drought and not freeze in the winter,
  • it is easy to grow several varieties on one stock, that is, it will be possible to collect different fruits from one tree,
  • try out a new variety, and if it meets all the requirements, then allocate a place for planting an individual instance,
  • the perfect solution is to plant a pollinator variety,
  • to keep the shtamb injured by beasts or sunburn,
  • increase the yield and endurance of trees,
  • completely renovate the garden without large financial costs.

Procurement of cuttings and timing

The success of any vaccination of trees in the summer depends on the right scion and the timing of the procedure. This is the period of maximum sap flow (the second half of July - August), when the shoots grow, and are not at rest.

Cuttings are cut from healthy with good fruiting of the tree from the outside of the crown with maximum sun illumination. Shoots should be annuals with smooth bark and healthy foliage. Their length should be up to 40 cm, the diameter of the slice is 6 cm. The main condition is that the graft should have two formed buds.

Vaccination methods

There are many ways of grafting, and in order to know how and when to plant fruit trees correctly, you need to take into account the age of the rootstock, the thickness of the branches, the timing of maximum sap flow, and also possess the necessary skills.

Each method has its own characteristics that you need to know and take into account.

Benefits of Summer Vaccination

Summer vaccination of young and adult fruit trees gives many advantages:

  • decreases the number of harvested cuttings and their shelf life,
  • the process of cultivating a plant is reduced by a year,
  • spring may not be a good stock,
  • if the spring vaccine failed, then there is an opportunity to repeat it in the summer,
  • the stalk, cut with a piece of last year's bark, survives 100%,
  • accretion is good, because the callus is growing rapidly, making the joint strong and invisible,
  • by the fall it will be clear whether the procedure is successful or not.
By resorting to summer grafts of fruit trees, you absolutely get the desired result, which allows you to save the desired variety and rejuvenate the garden.

Why do you need a vaccination

  1. To get planting material. During seed reproduction, varietal qualities are lost, and cuttings root poorly.
  2. To eliminate unwanted qualities. For example, own-rooted cherries give a lot of shoots, and those grafted with growth form one stem.
  3. To increase the drought resistance and winter hardiness of the tree, adapt it to the soil conditions of the growing region, increase resistance to pests and diseases. For example, planting a heat-loving variety in the crown of a winter-hardy tree can produce a harvest of southern fruits in an area with a cold winter.
  4. To update the old fruit tree and get the harvest in 3-4 years. This is done when the quality of the fruit of the tree begins to deteriorate.
  5. To correct the defects of the crown of the tree. After trimming, you can change the shape of the crown.
  6. With the right choice of stock, you can get a dwarf tree on which the fruit will ripen faster.
  7. To save space. On one tree, you can grow two or three varieties.

How to plant trees

For a positive result, you must follow the basic rules. They are the following:

  • Plant only a healthy tree without damage.
  • Stone fruit rootstock should be no older than 10 years. Apple and pear inoculated of any age.
  • If several varieties are grafted onto one tree at once, it is necessary that their maturation be simultaneous.
  • The stone tree is planted before the seed tree.
  • Stone fruit inoculate on the stone, and pome - on pome.
  • Cuttings should be taken only from a healthy tree. You can prepare them in the fall from the end of October to the end of November, store in a cold basement or cellar in the sand, as well as in the snow.
  • In the spring the stalk is cut to the appearance of leaves on it and immediately grafted.
  • The graft on the graft is preferably taken from the middle of the south side of the tree.
  • It is necessary to inoculate quickly so that the light and the air act on the fresh incision for a short time.
  • Both the stock and the graft cambium layers must match perfectly.
  • Hands and tools, as well as the junction of the tree with the handle should be clean, it affects the survival rate of the cuttings. Therefore, from time to time it is imperative to wipe the instrument with a clean rag or alcohol solution, if it is possible to sterilize it beforehand. Vaccination site boiling water for the destruction of pests.
  • Apply two types of knives: okulirovochny and grafting. The dormant knife has a special “bone” and is great for separating bark from the stock. Прививочный имеет длинный клинок и лезвие прямой формы, им легко делать ровные и длинные срезы. В качестве альтернативы можно использовать бритвенное лезвие, но главное, чтобы рабочий инструмент был острым, иначе аккуратные срезы сделать не получится и не произойдёт срастание привоя и подвоя.
  • It is better to perform work on a dry cloudy, not a rainy day at any time of the day.
  • It is necessary to securely fix the vaccine. In addition to fixation, the material for the garter must have such properties as to retain graft moisture.
  • It is necessary to consider the compatibility of trees. Both trees should be similar. For example, a varietal apricot is grafted onto wild apricot.

The timing of the year

It is best to conduct the vaccination during the period of active sap flow. Grafting trees in spring is the best time to work. Inoculation of trees in the summer is done if the climate in the area is dry and warm. Stone rocks are best to vaccinate from late March to early April, seed from early April to mid-June. Often gardeners use the lunar calendar to select the most appropriate day for vaccination.

It is not recommended to inoculate in the autumn or winter, as there is a possibility that the stalk will not have time to settle down before the frost hits. But there are ways of winter grafting of trees that are not applicable to all types of trees. It is best suited for apple, pear and plum.

For winter vaccinations, they pick up a game in advance and grow it indoors at an average temperature. Herself vaccination is done from January to March. After that, the grafted tree is again placed in the room. until the outside air temperature rises, and in the spring they are already sown in the ground. It is necessary to wait for the day when the temperature will not drop below zero at night, in order not to freeze the cuttings. Small frosts will not affect much.

It is important to inoculate before blooming buds on the stock, as there is a high probability that later vaccinations will have a strong gum treatment (brown or amber sticky thick liquid will stand out on the trunk and branches), and, as a result, the tree will lower its winter hardiness and growth will slow down .

Required Tools

The following tools are needed:

  • pruner,
  • garden knife and scissors,
  • okutirovochny or copulatory knife,
  • saw,
  • stairs,
  • garden pitch,
  • material for binding (surgical gloves or plastic bags, stationery, electrical tape) cut into strips.

All knives are disinfected before use.

Care of graft trees

A month later, the result will be known by the appearance of the kidneys. The vaccination site should be sealed, so as the growth grows, the harness will need to be loosened so that it does not over-press the barrel. Squeezing the bark leads to obloma. It is necessary to maintain the humidity of the grafting site, but so that moisture does not fall into the gaps between the stock and the graft. In order not to overdry or soak, the junction is tied with a ribbon and smeared with garden pitch. Several times a week it is necessary to check the tightness of the coating, as temperature fluctuations occur and the cut may dry out.

The inoculation should be protected from direct sunlight, since it is undesirable to overheat and overdry newly formed tissues so as not to lead to their death.

This can especially happen in the first year. Favorable when the vaccination site is in the shade. You can make an awning from the sun. When young shoots appear on the grafted branch of its feathers

iodically tied to props to prevent a bummer. In the process of growth, it is necessary to remove the germinating buds below the junction so that they do not take moisture from the roots. With the successful inoculation of several cuttings on one branch, leave only one.


Copulation is performed in spring by cutting to a thin branch. When copulating use part of the annual escape with two or three buds. The stalk must be at least one year old. Copulation is effective when the tree is not older than two years. This method is applicable to stocks of small diameter when grafting on the bark is impossible. Successful copulation is possible with the same thickness of the scion and rootstock, but if the thickness of the rootstock is thicker, then you can place two or three cuttings at once, for example, on the sides.

With a simple copulation on the graft and the stock, the same angled cuts of the same length are made at the same angle. Sections are combined and securely fixed. For improved copulation, they create an additional splice surface. To do this, the cut is performed nonsmooth, and in the form of a zipper or figured. The result is a lock connection, providing better docking. The upper part of the cut smeared with garden pitch.

Vaccination for bark

The method is used when the stock is thicker than a scion. The advantage of this method is the minimum trauma of the stock.: The incision is quickly tightened and the cutting sticks well. The best time to complete this vaccination is the period of active sap flow (from the middle to the end of spring). On the stock, you can immediately plant 2 or 3 cuttings, but leave only one at the end. By doing

grafting graft bark is cut under 30 degrees, the bark is cut into the rootstock and the cutting is inserted into the center of the rootstock counter to the stem.

For better contact additionally, a horizontal incision is made in the graft and get a saddle in which the stalk is held securely. The stock with graft is firmly fixed, and the site of the vaccination is smeared with garden pitch. This vaccination is best done using a special copula knife. It is also desirable that there be a shoot below the vaccine, which in the first months will provide nutrition for the cutting.

Graft Splitting

They are used when the stock with rough bark is damaged by unsuccessful vaccinations and re-grafting is required. Therefore, it is a great option for mature or old trees. The developed root system of the mature tree contributes to the good development and survival of the scion. Vaccination is performed before the start of sap flow.. Stone fruit tree grafted in early spring, and seed from the middle of spring. With a sufficient diameter of the stock, 2 cuttings can be grafted onto it from different sides.

The split (with an ax or knife) splits the branch from the end up to about 8 cm in depth. On the handle, a wedge cut is made so that the bud is in the middle of the cutting. Insert the cutting into the cleft so that the cambium layers coincide. Slice covered with garden pitch. Fastening the handle is strong and does not require additional fastening. Often, splitting causes wood rot. and the appearance of the hollow is therefore used an improved method - semi-split.

Side Graft Vaccination

The lateral cutting is performed in the stock of any thickness and gives a good accretion. This vaccine is often used to improve yields by replacing the tops of old trees. Perform such work in the winter, spring and summer. A slit is cut out on the side of the tree trunk. The graft with two kidneys is cut from both sides under the wedge and inserted into the slot. Then perform strapping and putty garden pitch. With the help of side grafting, you can change the direction of growth of the branches, thus forming a crown.


Alatization is an inoculation by approaching the method of splicing the branches through cuts of wood or bark. Twig and shoot from the trunk are intertwined and tied up with strapping material. Splicing takes a long time. To speed up the process of accretion, a vaccinate vaccine is used. At the junction on the rootstock and the graft, the strips of bark of the same size are carefully cut off, and then they are pressed tightly to each other with a binding material and spread with garden pitch.

At the junction is a durable fabric. After the stalk grows together with the stock, it is separated. The rest of the stock over the graft is cut and a new sapling is formed, ready for planting. The best vaccination time is spring. Using ablaze, you can plant trees in tight spaces, for example, near the walls of a house. There, besides a good harvest, they perform a decorative function. The vaccination is applicable to the rescue of the diseased tree.

Adding an article to a new collection

If you did not have time to plant the apple trees in the spring, the cuttings did not take root or you just want to try something new in gardening, pay attention to such a procedure as the summer grafting of fruit trees.

If you are going to plant an apple tree in summer, remember that this method is only suitable for very young trees, seedlings and root shoots that you want to cultivate. Moreover, the thickness of the grafted branch must be no more than 0.8-1.5 cm, and the branch itself should be located close to the trunk of the tree.

How to understand that the tree is ready for grafting?

Summer vaccination is performed when young shoots stopped growing. By this time, the axillary buds on them have already matured and can serve as a material for vaccination.

In most parts of Russia, this period continues. from late July to mid-August. However, depending on the temperature, precipitation and even tree varieties, these periods can vary considerably. Therefore, before vaccination, you need to make sure that the tree is ready for this procedure.

Summer grafting of an apple tree saves time for tree cultivation

Determine the readiness of the apple can be the state of the buds and the fit of the bark. In the first case, pay attention to apical bud of the stalk: it must be fully formed.

A sign of apple readiness for vaccination can also serve reduction of the distance between the nodes on the apical part of the annual cutting.

You can also focus on the degree of adherence of the cortex. To estimate this parameter, cut the bark on one of the branches to be grafted and try to separate it from the wood. If the bark moves away easily, the tree is ready for grafting.

First, graft early varieties of apple, then - later.

We select cuttings for the summer vaccination

In order to select the appropriate cutting, you need to be able to distinguish growth buds from flowering. In most cases, growth buds predominate at the tops of the shoots, in the middle - both growth and flowering buds, and the number of growth buds increases again at the bottom.

Also plays a role the location of the shoots in the tree crown. The central shoots that are inside the crown, bear on themselves more flower buds, while the side - growth.

It is easy to distinguish the kidneys by their appearance: growth buds longer and flattened as well flowery - rounded and large in size.
It is necessary to cut the cuttings from those parts of the branch on which growth buds predominate. Shoots must be taken already lignified, with healthy leaves, smooth bark without flaws. The length of the shoot must be at least 30 cm, the diameter at the cut point - 5-6 mm.

Summer vaccination cuttings should be harvested in the early morning.

Preferably harvest cuttings on the day of vaccination. from 4 to 10 am. If you are going to use them within 2-3 hours, then you should not lower the cut shoots into water (especially chlorinated).

Harvested shoots are transferred to the shade, the top and leaves are removed, leaving petioles about 1 cm long, then the stipules are removed. After that, the shoots are wrapped in a damp cloth and delivered to the site of vaccination.

Ideally, summer vaccination is best done on an overcast, but not rainy day, morning or evening, when it is not so hot outside.

Summer apple budding - step by step instructions

There are many ways to graft fruit trees. But not all are suitable for summer grafting of an apple tree.

During the warm months, trees can be grafted only by the method of budding (there are two types of budding: in the T-shaped incision and priklad). The choice of budding method depends on how well the bark is separated from the wood.

Grafting an apple tree into a T-shaped incision

This method is suitable for grafting plants whose bark leaves easily. Knife for carrying out budding should be sharp, with a special "bone" to create a T-shaped incision.

Budding the apple tree in a T-shaped incision - the most common method of summer vaccination

    Stand next to the stock, tilt it and make a cross-section on it to the wood itself. It should be made at a small angle to the vertical axis of the stock, in order to further facilitate the insertion of the shield. Depending on the thickness of the branch or trunk of the tree, the length of the cross-section should be from 2 to 3.5 cm.

Take out the trimming knife and make a longitudinal cut perpendicular to the transverse one with the rounded part of the blade. As a result, you should get the letter "T". To prevent the knife from sliding, place the index finger of your right hand just below the blade. He should move along the stock as a stop. Place the blade of the knife perpendicular to the bark of the tree. The length of the longitudinal incision should be 1-3 cm. The easier the crust separates, the shorter the incision can be.

When the blade of the knife reaches the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse cuts, do not remove it, but turn it alternately to the right and left, lifting the corners of the bark.

Take a graft of a graft in your left hand with the tip towards you and select a kidney suitable for grafting.

Transversely cut the bark on the handle at the top of the future shield, departing 1-1.5 cm from the top of the bud.

Make a second transverse incision 1.5 cm below the base of the kidney, cutting through the bark and a small layer of wood.

Place the blade of the knife at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the base of the kidney, sliding it towards yourself and to the right slightly deepen the blade and gently slide it under the bark, grabbing a thin layer of wood.

As soon as the blade reaches the base of the kidney, you need to raise the knife edge, thereby deepening the blade.

Cut the vascular fiber that feeds the kidney and lower the knife edge again.

Cut off the top of the shield so that the kidney is located in the middle.

Take the flap by the stem with your left hand and insert it into the T-shaped incision of the bark of the stock, slightly bending the stock in the opposite direction of the cut.

The flap should be inserted so that the kidney is in the middle of the longitudinal incision.

Swipe the longitudinal incision with the index fingers of both hands, so that the crust fits snugly against the shield.

Tie the vaccination site with plastic wrap immediately after the procedure. The binding is carried out from the lower end of the longitudinal section and to the upper edge of the transverse section. The place of vaccination "bandage" tight, without gaps, but at the same time leave the kidney and petiole open. When tying, make sure that the shield does not move.

  • If any parts of the graft cut are left uncovered, they are smeared with garden pitch.
  • Grafting apple tree

    This method is suitable for branches and trees whose bark is difficult to separate.

    Budding in the butt requires the perfect alignment of the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock

      On the rootstock in the inoculation area, trim a strip of bark from top to bottom with a thin layer of wood 2.5–3 cm long and 0.4–0.7 cm wide

    Then cut about 2/3 of this strip, and slightly remove the remaining piece of bark to the side.

    At the place of attachment of the strip of bark to the trunk, place the knife at an angle of 30 degrees and make an incision 4-5 mm deep. As a result, you should have a wedge-shaped incision, where you later insert the lower end of the shield with the kidney.

    Cut off the shield with the cutting using the method described in the section “Grafting an apple tree into a T-shaped cut”.

    Insert the shield under the remaining piece of bark at the incision and align it with the stock so that their cambial layers touch each other from all sides.

  • Immediately tie the vaccination site with cling film or other material so that the shield remains in place and the cambial layers continue to touch. Sliced ​​open slices with a garden pitch.
  • Care for the apple tree after vaccination

    Regardless of the budding method, the winding is removed after 2-3 weeks. By this moment, it becomes clear whether the vaccination has taken root or not. You can determine this as a petiole: if it dried up and fell off, then the procedure was successful. Otherwise, the vaccine did not catch on; it will be possible to repeat the manipulation next spring. Do not forget to lubricate the damaged bark with a garden pitch.

    It is important to loosen the dressing at the vaccination site in a timely manner so as not to damage the tree.

    As you can see, to spend the summer inoculation of an apple tree is a snap. Be sure to try this method in your garden.