Potty tillandsii need sufficiently bright light. However, direct sunlight is not recommended.
Therefore, the best place in the summer for them will be the northern window, and from autumn to spring - the east or west.
Atmospheric tillandsii shade-tolerant. They will feel good in partial shade in the depths of the room.
In the warm season, plants can be carried to fresh air, while protecting them from the scorching sun and rain.
The temperature regime in the summer for terrestrial tillands should be in the range of 24 to 28 degrees. In winter time - 18-20 degrees. Do not allow the temperature to drop below 17 degrees.
For epiphytic species, the optimum temperature in summer is 21-25 degrees, in winter 13-18 degrees.
Despite the fact that the plant needs a constant inflow of fresh air, it should be located where the movement of air will be minimal, for example, on the window sill behind a dull casement window.
Tillandia should be protected from sudden changes in temperature. Otherwise, it can lose a significant part of the foliage. Bringing a flower to the garden or to an open balcony is possible only when the weather is warm, so that the night cooling will not harm it.
Pot tillandsii need regular moderate watering. In summer, the soil in the pot should be slightly wet all the time. It is also necessary that the water was in the outlet.
In winter, regularity is reduced. Between watering the ground in the pot should dry well. 15-20 minutes after the procedure, the remaining water in the pan should be drained.
Water for irrigation should be no lower than 20 degrees. Used rain or thawed. Plumbing is not suitable because the plant does not tolerate chlorine in it.
Atmospheric tillandsii receive nutrients through the leaves, so do not need watering.
Especially in spraying need atmospheric views. The procedure should be carried out daily in the morning with warm distilled water. On hot days, it is better to add evening spraying.
Once in 2 weeks you can arrange a warm shower. Usilliform tillandia can be completely immersed in warm water for 5 minutes.
Potting tillandsia also needs daily morning spraying. However, when kept in cool conditions in winter, as well as during the flowering period, it is better to pause the procedure.
Above-ground plants need loose soil, which would pass water well.
Suitable substrate for orchids or bromeliadsbought in a store.
Independently, you can prepare a mixture, taking leaf ground, peat and crushed moss-sphagnum in equal proportions.
Good drainage is needed - it should occupy a third of the pot.
It is useful to add charcoal to the drainage mix. This will help prevent the development of fungi that cause rotting of the roots of the plant.
Successfully grown tillandsii in the soil of the following composition:
- Leaf humus,
- Shredded pine bark,
- Fern roots,
- Moss sphagnum
The components of this soil mixture are taken in equal parts.
Fertilize tillandsy should be from spring to autumn twice a month. It is better to produce foliar feeding, that is, spraying on the leaves of the spray.
For dressing it is better to use liquid mineral fertilizers for orchids or bromeliads.. In this case, the dose should be reduced by 4 times from that indicated on the package.
You can make fertilizer and at the root. At the same time they are diluted according to the instructions on the package. However, the plant's root system poorly absorbs nutrients from the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to alternate between root and foliar feeding. In this case, the latter should prevail.
In winter, tillandia is not fed. This process is also stopped during the flowering of the plant, so that moisture with fertilizers does not fall on the peduncle and does not cause its rotting.
For normal development of tillandia, high air humidity is required: potty species - at least 60%, atmospheric - at least 70%.
Pots with land plants can be put in trays with wet pebbles or moss. Also required daily spraying.
You can place containers with water around the plants - it will evaporate and the humidity will increase. You can use a humidifier.
Potted tillands after the flowering die. However, they leave behind 4-6 daughter shoots that can be used for reproduction.
Atmospheric tillandsii fasten to the support. Before this, the socket or bundle is wrapped with sphagnum moss.
It is also possible to settle the atmospheric tillandia in the florarium, but do not forget to spray the plant. An adult plant can be hung on a wire so that the leaves hang down.
Consider how to care for tillandia at home when the plant is sick.
Tillandsia is rarely affected by pests and diseases. However, with improper care, the scale insects and mealybugs can be dangerous for it.
Pests should be removed mechanically with a swab moistened with soapy water.
If such a measure of struggle did not help, you need to apply insecticides: Actellik, Fitoverm or Nurrell - D.
If the leaves in tillandsii become transparent and black spots appear on them, this indicates a fungal or viral disease.
The affected parts of the plant should be removed, and the flower itself should be treated with the fungicide, Fitosporin or Topaz. It is important to ensure good air circulation in the room.
- The tips of the leaves turn brown when they are watered with hard water,
- Potty tillandsia does not bloom due to lack of light or low environmental humidity,
- Brown color leaves get due to sunburn,
- Leaf dropping is possible due to sudden changes in temperature,
- Leaves of terrestrial species become light green with an excess of illumination, and dark green with an arrest of growth due to its lack.
Tillandsia is propagated by seeds and side shoots. The first method is more complicated and time consuming. Especially flowering tillandsii have to wait 4-5 years. Seeds are sown in a mixture of sphagnum moss and sand.
The container is covered with polyethylene and is contained at a temperature of 24-26 degrees. In 2-3 weeks shoots should appear. After 3-4 months, when the seedlings will have 3-4 leaves, they should be transplanted into separate pots.
Propagation by the lateral processes is a simpler and faster way.. Young specimens bloom in 2 years. "Kids", having 4-6 leaves, own roots and reaching half the height of the mother plant, are carefully separated with a sharp knife.
Place the cut sprinkled with crushed coal. The pot for a new plant should be roomy, as for an adult specimen. Planted escape is put in penumbra and is contained at a temperature of 23-25 degrees. The soil should be a little wet all the time.
During the reproduction of atmospheric species, the daughter process is separated from the mother plant, wrapped in wet moss-sphagnum and fixed on a support.
Atmospheric species do not need transplantation. In potted species, as a rule, transplantation coincides with reproduction. This is explained by the fact that tillandia has a weak root system and the pot rarely becomes tight for it. If this does happen, the plant should be transplanted into a larger pot. Transplantation may be needed every 2-3 years. .
For tillandsii fit a wide, but shallow pot. It is better that it is ceramic - for greater stability.
When transplanting the plant is removed from the pot, and gently shake off the ground from the roots. Tillandia has a fragile root system, so you should not remove all old soil from the roots. Some of it, which can not be shaken off immediately, can be left on the roots. The plant is transplanted into a new container, carefully filling the roots with new soil. After transplantation, it is necessary to water the plant well.
Photo tillandsii in the process of care in the home and in the natural environment:
Now you know everything about growing and caring for tillandia (Anita, usnevidnoy) at home, as well as about reproduction and transplanting plants.
Planted tillandsii immediately after purchase. In this case, acclimatization will be much more successful - there will be no problems with the roots. In peat to create optimal conditions for successful cultivation is impossible.
Tillandsii - epiphytes. For development they do not need land. If they have roots (and some species do not have them), then they exist in order to gain a foothold on the support, and not to remove nutrients from the earth. In nature, these bromeliads feed from air, which, as is known, is 75-78% nitrogen. And this nitrogen is absorbed by the entire surface of the plant: leaves, stem, and roots. If the roots are immersed in a dense land wet mixture, then contact with the air does not occur, and this is fraught with rotting. Therefore, the substrate is chosen as for orchids: the bark of pine, poplar or other thick-edged plants and moss, better sphagnum, because It has high disinfecting properties along with breathability. Instead of bark, you can use fern roots, coconut chips or fiber, even ceramic filler - anything that lets air and moisture to the roots, preventing them from stagnating.
Location and lighting
The light should be bright enough, but not blinding - these are tropical plants, not steppe ones. You can grow on the windows of the southern orientation, but from June to August, you need shading in the afternoon. Fit eastern and western windows. In the north you will need light from October to March.
If possible, open the windows - provide fresh air.
The procedure is carried out in the spring. The capacity for the plant is chosen wider than the previous one, if the young processes are not planned. The main thing in transplanting is to change the substrate and make the plant resistant. Water, put in the shade and do not disturb as long as possible. The roots themselves must be fixed in the filler.
Breeding method - bush placement
After flowering on Tylandia young shoots begin to appear. Once they reach half the size of an adult plant, they are removed and transplanted into separate containers. The cut place is traditionally dipped in charcoal and immediately planted into the substrate as for an adult plant. The roots will appear in a month or two and help the plant to gain a foothold. If there is abundant irrigation, cover the processes should not be - you need fresh air.
The young plant blooms for the first time for 2 - 3 year.
Diseases and pests
Improper care weakens the plant and is exposed to viruses or pest attacks.
In case of insufficient or excessive watering, roots first suffer - they dry up or rot. In the latter case, cleaned the problem area and transplanted to a new substrate. With proper care, new roots are formed within a month.
The virus is manifested by the appearance of discolored spots on the leaves. Such leaves are immediately removed.
Among the pests are mealybug and thrips. Worm is washed off with a soap or a weak alcohol solution, and thrips, attacking the flower directly, disappear, if you cut it together with the peduncle - you will have to sacrifice flowering. Not flourishing until the end of the plant, may release a new flower stalk.
- Tillandsiya blue (cyanea) - compact epiphyte, from 20 to 30 cm, rosette of gray-green leaves, there are roots. Bract pink or red, flowers lilac, blue or blue, up to 20 pcs.
- Tillandsiya Anita - one of the few industrial hybrids, blue tillandia variety. Bracts collected in a wide pink spike inflorescence, three-petalled flowers, bright blue. The bract is kept for a long time.
- Tillandsia Head jellyfish - from the basal bulge in the form of a bulb grows up and falls on the sides down beautiful leaves. Bracts spike-shaped red, flowers rich blue.
- Tillandsiya tricolor - got its name for the color of bracts. With good lighting, you can see the transition of red to yellow, and then to green. Peduncle longer than leaves. Root plant, size approx. 25 cm
- Osilliform tillandsia - an atmospheric plant, has no roots and does not need them. It grows in nature on the branches of trees. Long thin stalks covered with short gray leaves. The flowers are small, inconspicuous, without bracts. The plant gives the impression of a long mixed gray moss. Propagated by simply cutting the part. Does not need a substrate, grows on any horizontal support. Requires frequent spraying or pond bottom.
- From time to time you can arrange a real shower tillands. To do this, put them in a bath and water for 10 - 15 minutes with very warm water. At the end, rinse with settled filtered or rainwater. After the procedure, leave for some time in the humid air of the bathroom. Then take out to a warm dry room. This imitation tropical rain has a beneficial effect on plant development.
- Atmospheric tillandsii can sometimes just be immersed in warm soft water for 20 to 30 minutes.
- It is very important to prevent overcooling of plants, especially after water treatments.
How does tillandsia winter?
It is desirable to reduce the temperature of the content in the winter to 16 - 18 degrees with a decrease in moisture. If this does not happen, then watering and spraying remain at the same level.
Tillandsii - very decorative exotic. A collection of different types can decorate any room. It is very worth making friends with them!
Description of tillands
Some varieties of plants may have a hard stem, others do not have it at all. Depending on this, terrestrial or epiphytic types of tillandsia differ. Suspended varieties of this plant have oblong narrow leaves 25 centimeters long and 1 centimeter wide. The color of the foliage can vary from gray to green. Rosettes of green tillands are formed by flat leaves with scales. Some species have a smooth sheet plate, the length of which can reach 40 centimeters. Bright pink tillandii bracts form a large inflorescence, similar to the ear. At home in a pot the plant can live no more than five years.
Tillandia care at home
Most of the bromeliad family does not require scrupulous care, tillandsia is no exception. The plant will grow well and look healthy, even with the most basic rules of care.
It is important to remember that this indoor plant does not tolerate direct sun, so from its hot rays it should be shaded, especially in summer. Strong heat is also destructive for her. Although the plant requires bright diffused light throughout the year.
Important! Tylllandsia epiphytes need even more significant blackout.
The subspecies of Anita does not need such abundant spraying as, for example, epiphytes of this family, for which humidity is the main factor for the absorption of nutrients. Due to such a high demand for high humidity, suspended tillandsia feel good in special florariums. In contrast, the pot with Anita’s tillandia is simply enough to put on wet pebbles or moss.
Ready soil can be bought at any flower shop. For tillandsii most suitable mix for orchids. For self-preparation of suitable soil is taken on one part of leafy soil, peat, peat moss and mixed with the addition of crushed charcoal.
Fertilizers and fertilizers
The mode of fertilization in tillandsii is in many respects similar to fertilizing in orchids. Every two weeks of summer, the complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants should be sprayed with a foliage of the plant in half the concentration. It is better for them not to water the soil in order not to damage the weak root system.
After a flowering period, the adult plant dies off, so it does not need to be transplanted into a new soil. Transplanting is required only once, in case the flower was purchased from a store. Then the store soil in which it was located for sale is replaced by a more fertile composition. The pot is chosen corresponding to the root system, that is, not deep, but wide enough. After planting the first 7 days, watering is not recommended.
Tillandia care during flowering
In Anita's tillandia, the flower usually appears in summer. However, various factors may affect this process, and flower stalks may begin to be laid at any time of the year. Bright inflorescence of bracts appears first, followed by small bluish flowers. This whole period lasts about two months. After that, the faded parts should be removed as well as the old foliage.
It is possible to stimulate the appearance of flowers by weekly sprinkling the plant with a preparation from Zircon. This is done if the tillandia Anita does not give a flower stem for a long time.
Perhaps the most popular variety of this plant. Derived as a hybrid of talland blue, Anita is very decorative in appearance. Its scaly leaves are narrow and spiky. Они образуют розетку, в центре которой на коротком стебле находится голубой цветок, окруженный розовыми или сиреневыми прицветниками. Несмотря на то, что цветок отцветает быстро, его прицветные листья еще долго остаются яркими, постепенно зеленеют.
Из эпифитных сортов тилландсии этот чаще всего можно встретить в домашних помещениях. The leaves of this plant come in the form of threads, with scales and have a gray color, their length is about 5 centimeters. They hang down in cascade, so it is convenient to grow them on stands. In such conditions, the leaves can reach 1 meter in length. In the people, tillandsia is a motatory form called Spanish Moss or Old Man’s Beard. It blooms in the warm season, but its flowers are not particularly attractive due to the faded yellowish or bluish color.
The plant belongs to the number of green varieties. The dense tillandsii rosette of tricolor is formed by thin twenty-centimeter scaled leaves, rather narrow and pointed. Long stalks of peduncles stand straight. There are ears of inflorescences on them, sometimes even several such spikelets. This flower has received the name of "tricolor" due to the multi-colored leathery sepals that form a red-yellow-green inflorescence. The flower of tillandsii itself is located on a long stem of 7 centimeters, it has petals painted in purple. Flowering plant in the summer.
Osilliform tillandsia also known as the old man's beard. It has thin shoots that can reach a great length. The foliage is similar to threads, covered with scales of silvery coloring. The flowers are greenish-yellow.
Tillandsiya tricolor small plant with bluish foliage, which grows extensive rosette. Red-green bracts and flowers of violet color appear on long flower stalks.
Sticking tillands epiphyte with bright green shoots covered with gray scales. Inflorescences spikelets of lilac coloring appear on flower stalks.
Tillandsia head jellyfish so named because of its shoots and foliage, which resemble the limbs of marine inhabitants. When it begins to bloom, a few spike-shaped inflorescences appear with red bracts and blue flowers.
Tillandsiya silvery also called filiform or hairy. It has thin long leaves that stretch from the bottom of the shoot.
Tillandsiya fiatkotsvetkovaya or ionanta It is a small rosette of thin, woven foliage of silver hue. When flowering begins, the foliage begins to acquire a reddish tint.
Popular variety of this species Tillandsiya fiatkotsvetkovaya red or rubra. This is a small compact plant that is well suited for growing in indoor conditions.
Andre Tillandsia epiphyte, its foliage sometimes grows straight from the root, and sometimes leafy sprout appears. Like other atmospheric species, the aerial part is covered with silvery scales.
Tillandsiya Xerographics Xenographic silvery foliage twists, as well as among relatives, greatly expanding. Perfectly withstands drought due to the fact that it grows wild in dry areas of Mexico.
Tillandsiya blue or cyane most often found in our gardeners. It has thin foliage, reddish below and brown-green above. The flowers are bluish, similar to rhombuses. Served as a material for creating many hybrids.
Linden Tillands resembles the previous form, but has a more magnificent flower-spike. Bracts scarlet, and the flowers are blue in color.
Tillandsya Duer or Dierianna has a long flat foliage that twists heavily. On a thin flower stalk a flower appears, covered with a bract of red tone.
Tillandsiya Anita A hybrid plant derived from Cyanea, which is also quite often grown with us. Thin sharp foliage covered with scales, in the middle of it appears a blue-colored flower with a scarlet bract. Petals wither quickly, but the bract keeps its color for a long time.
Bent tillands an evergreen flower, the stem of which is usually well branched. The foliage is curved, curving, covered with scales of ash color. Leaves also appear on a long peduncle, and a pair of light lilac flowers form on its top.
Tillandsia onion or bulboza this species forms quite a lot of foliage, which begins to twist sharply from the swollen parts. Green leaves are covered with a bluish scale. Scarlet leaves grow on a flower stalk, the flower is a spikelet of bluish color.
Tillandsia home care
Tillandia care depends on whether it is atmospheric or green, but in general it is not particularly burdensome.
Atmospheric types grow better in the penumbra, and pot greens prefer diffuse light, and in winter, when the sun is not so high, they are best placed in the sun. Both types grow well at temperatures close to 24 ° C in summer and 15 ° C in winter. It is undesirable for the temperature to rise above 35 ° C and below 15 ° C.
Humidity is needed quite high - close to 60%. This level is maintained by spraying with soft water, but so that it does not drip onto the flowers. It is also impossible for moisture to stay on foliage for a long time; it should evaporate within a couple of hours. Please note that the higher the humidity, the more light the culture needs. These plants need fresh air, but do not allow it to be blown out with drafts.
Atmospheric types are grown on the bark of other plants. You can make a substrate of bark and charcoal. You can also try the soil for bromeliads, but even if you buy it in a specialized store, the mixture still needs to be ignited.
Vriesia is also a representative of the Bromeliad family, which naturally grows as an epiphytic plant, while in the home, as a pot plant. Requires compliance with the rules of cultivation and care. All the necessary recommendations on this plant can be found in this article.
It is necessary to water plants directly in the sheet socket. Water can be used only soft, defended, and even better rain, distilled liquid will not work. Chlorine should not be in the water, so water from the pipes should not be used. As for the temperature, it is necessary that it be at least 20 degrees. Try to water the bushes so that the moisture does not remain on the bracts.
The atmospheric type is watered once a day by spraying, and the earthworm itself is watered when it dries.
Pot types are also watered by spraying, but the condition of the soil is not brought to complete dryness as with the atmospheric type.
- If the temperature decreases or there is a lack of light, then accordingly it is necessary to water less.
- Watering the soil when it dries, spend soaking it for half an hour, and then let it drain from the water.
- Also, a couple of times a month is not bad to wash the bush to clean the dust from the base of the outlet.
- If the ground is too dry and the bush began to die, then the pot should be placed in the water for a day - in this case it will be possible to restore the flower.
Fertilizers for Tylandia
Fertilizers are applied once for 40-50 days, using specialized fertilizer for bromeliads, but make sure that it does not contain boron and copper. It is also important to breed top dressing 4 times stronger than indicated in the instructions.
Tillandsia seed growing
Seeds multiply pot types that are bought in stores. Germinate material in a damp mixture of sand with peat. Seeds are better not to close up with the substrate, but simply to put them on the ground.
Next, the crop is covered with oilcloth and kept under diffused light and temperature not lower than 25 ° C. Germination lasts a long time, and the flowering of plants obtained in this way occurs only after a few years.
Tillandsia breeding babes
Reproduction by babies that appear when flowering begins is also possible. When flowering ends, the parent dies, and sprouts appear from around it, which quickly take root and can simply be planted in the sand mixed with peat.
Rooting will end after a couple of months, after which it will be possible to transplant children to other pots in the orchid mix. If only one sprout appears, then after the death of the parent, the children do not perform the transplant.
Atmospheric type is divided into bunches. They are planted in raw moss, where they just continue to grow.
Diseases of tillands
In case of violation of care in tylandse, there may be a number of problems.
In tillandia, when there is a shortage of moisture, it begins to become pale foliage color, she is twisted more than usual fades and frownsand later dies off.
With a sharp change in external conditions leaves may start to fall off.
Browning leaves most likely begins because of burns acquired due to direct sunlight.
The appearance of lime on the sheets and bracts indicates watering hard water. In this case, you need to be careful, because the culture may die.
Sudden changes in temperature always have a bad effect on this culture - it can stop blooming, wither, to weaken.
Excessive green leaf color most often appears in too bright light.
Among the pests quite common aphid. This pest not only drinks juice, but also carries diseases. To get rid of the aphids, you can wash the leaves with soapy water or spray the flower with water and citrus.
White fly can be identified by whitish larvae on the shoots and sticky plaque after which sazhka may appear. To fight with the whitefly resort to glue traps.
Mealybugs they leave a shiny wax-like patina, also sticky moisture, which also attracts sazhuku. If there are few pests, they can be simply removed manually. If they multiply too much, then the flower is washed with soapy water or infusion of calendula.
Shchitovka appear as flakes, they leave behind a sticky patina and dark traces. They are quite difficult to fight. They are torn off with a rag soaked in soapy water, alcohol or onion extract.
If pests cause too many problems, it is better to resort to insecticide poisons, thanks to which it is much easier to get rid of insects.
Twisting the leaves along the central vein into a tube indicates that the plant lacks moisture and needs to be immersed in water for at least 3 or 4 hours (the water should be at room temperature).
Ensure that no liquid stagnates in the center of the outlet during watering. It should either completely evaporate after 2 hours or drain out.
It is necessary to water with soft, slightly acidic water (pH about 6.5), in which there is no chlorine. So, boiled, rain or melted water is great for this.
These are slow-growing plants and they do not need much fertilizer. Rosette species during intensive growth are fed 1 time in 4 weeks, using liquid fertilizers for bromilevia. Those atmospheric species that grow on the bark practically do not fertilize, since the slowly decomposing bark provides them with nutrients.
You can not use for fertilizing conventional fertilizers. So, a large amount of nitrogen can destroy tillandii. And also you can not use organic matter, for example: humus, urea, or mullein infusion (even in minimal doses).
Fertilizing is carried out as follows - in a liquid for irrigation through immersion or spraying dissolve the desired dose of fertilizer.
A large number of tillands are able to purify the air of harmful substances, which, when absorbed, decompose, provide the plant with essential trace elements.
How to transplant
The newly acquired plant must be transplanted. However, if he already has a flower stalk, then this should not be done, since at the end of flowering the mother plant dies, giving offspring.
In the store the plant can be planted in the substrate, or rather in a pot filled with peat. And also it can be sold fixed on the surface of the bark without a substrate.
In the wild, green species prefer to grow not on the soil, but on moss-covered stones, snags or tree trunks.
Therefore, for transplanting, use large pieces of bark (1–2 centimeters) or a mixture consisting of acadams (clay granulate used for growing bonsai) and bark. Ceramis granules can also be used.
You can also add river pebbles and coconut fiber to the mix. In simple soil, the plant rots. The pot is used in very small sizes, and sticking roots can be cut.
Atmospheric species are attached to untreated wooden sticks, felt, snag or coconut fiber. They are often placed in vases or flat bowls, in which the liquid does not linger or flows quickly. In the case when tillandsiya is in water for a long time, it can rot.
When watering through immersion in a liquid, the plant cannot be removed from the base, because it can be damaged. Experienced growers are advised to attach the plant, using soft tape, to a relatively small block (a piece of bark) that can be easily removed. And hang it on the snag.
Can be propagated by daughter rosettes or seeds. The appearance of the children occurs at the end of the flowering period. So, on 1 maternal plant can grow from 3 to 8 pieces of daughter outlets. In the case when they are not separated, the plants grow in breadth and form a rather wide curtain. For the separation fit kids with a diameter of not less than 6-8 centimeters.
As for tillandia, it is osteiform, its shoots can be cut to any size and tied to something.
Tillandsiya sitnikovaya (Tillandsia juncea)
This plant is an epiphyte. He has a panicle consisting of reed leaves, forming a lush outlet. Leaflets can reach a length of 25 to 50 centimeters. When the flowering period comes, the plant has a long and very effective bract, painted red, and its purple flowers have a very small size.
Tillandsia violet (Tillandsia ionantha)
This epiphyte is able to attach to almost anything, and grow in many different places. Curved, silvery leaves collected in a neat, small outlet. The leaves become reddish in summer. It has not very large spiciform inflorescences, painted in violet-blue color.
Tillandsia "Jellyfish Head" (Tillandsia caput-medusae)
This is a very popular species, which is often grown at home. It is distinguished by its endurance.
It has an unusual shape, resembling an onion with tightly fitting leaf bases. They bend to the sides only at the top. Most often, the sheet rosette hangs upside down.
Finger-shaped or linear inflorescences are colored red. In length, purple flowers reach 32 millimeters.
Tillandsia blue (Tillandsia cyanea)
This plant can be purchased at almost every flower shop. Curved, narrow leaves collected in the outlet, and in length they reach 30 centimeters. At the base they are colored brown-red.
On the surface of the sheet there are many small flakes that are quite tight to each other. Flowering is observed in the summer. A dense spike of elliptical shape appears.
The bracts are painted in lilac or pink color, and along their edges small flowers bloom, having a blue or pink color. The blooming of flowers occurs gradually and it starts from the top.
Growing and caring for tillandia at home
Tillandsii is a numerous genus of tropical plants of the bromeliad family, often grown as indoor plants. Sizes are small - from 5 to 35 cm. The division into air (atmospheric) and pot (root) is rather arbitrary.
In nature, they both are epiphytes growing on the surface to which they literally fell: on the trunks and branches of trees, on stones, on the surface of the earth (on the surface, not in the ground!).
Unlike other indoor plants, tillandsia is a natural species, there are few artificially created hybrids.
What is the unique flowering of epiphytes?
Flowering epiphyte - it is always a holiday. You never know what a riot of colors to expect from him. For some varieties of Tillands at the time of flowering, it is characteristic to color the foliage closest to the peduncle to soft pink or white. Others become altogether like peacocks - thanks to a large bright flower that appears on a long peduncle right from the middle of the rosette.
Tillandsia blooms in early summer. At first, it “shoots” up the peduncle, which in form and structure resembles a large spike. Over time, the bracts begin to turn a bright color, making it in pairs. The first to change the color of the upper bracts, and gradually the entire flower spike from top to bottom becomes bright and elegant.
Do not worry if the indoor flower thought up to be covered with color in winter. There is nothing wrong with that. Fertilizing tillandsii during flowering in this period of the year is not necessary. As well as to expect from her excessive riot of colors. In the cold epiphyte blooms dimly, though very noticeable.
Types of pot and atmospheric colors
Tillandsii are divided into two types - atmospheric and pottery. Plants of the first type exist with virtually no roots, that is, they have an undeveloped root system and feel great on special poles or snags. Potted flowers easily take root in the ground and pamper the owners with their magnificent blooms. The table below lists the most popular types of tillandsia with their characteristic features.
Table - Tillandsia: Popular Species and Their Features
3 ways to grow
В зависимости от приобретенного вида эпифита различают три способа выращивания этих вечнозеленых растений: старая коряга, на которой сохранились остатки коры, обыкновенный цветочный горшок или стеклянный сосуд, позволяющий создать мини-оранжерею в домашних условиях.
- Коряга. This method of cultivation is ideal for atmospheric varieties, which are distinguished by small roots and undeveloped root system. Snag pretreated, leaving a little bark on it. It is from her tillandsiya and will receive moisture. Please note that watering the atmospheric flower types is not needed. Enough regular spraying of leaves and humidifying the air in the room.
- Glass vessel. A transparent round glass vase can be filled with bark, stones and small branches. A small epiphyte is better to fix on a piece of bark with a synthetic thread. In the future, the plant will release several long roots and be able to cling to the support on their own.
- Pot. Suitable for decorative flower types. Those that are grown not to create mini-greenhouses, but for flowering. Their characteristic feature is narrow, upward-looking leaves. Depending on the type of epiphyte, the lower foliage may be colored brown, light green or even lilac.
The required flower lighting depends on which group it belongs to.
- Atmospheric. Love the shadow. At most a penumbra. Moreover, the minimum coverage is a requirement that remains relevant for group A tillands throughout the year, be it winter, summer or off season.
- Potted. Penumbra for such species is an extreme measure. In the period from February to September, tillandia group D require abundant, but diffused light. And in the remaining time of the year, they are altogether ready to bask in the direct rays of the sun.
Watching the temperature
Temperature conditions are the same for all tillands, regardless of the group to which they belong.
- Winter. In winter, the flower needs a temperature of about 15 ° C. However, even a decrease to 4 ° C will endure an evergreen epiphyte. Unless, of course, it will be a short-term phenomenon.
- Summer. In summer, the flower needs a temperature of about 30 ° C during the day and not lower than 17 ° C during the night and evening.
Achieve the right humidity
If you decide to do tillandsii grow in a city apartment, get along the way and a humidifier. This device will benefit not only the flower, but all home dwellers. It is important that the hygrometer needle never drops below 60%. This is the optimum humidity level for Tillands. If the humidifier is not at your disposal, you can do with a conventional spray gun. Observe the following three guidelines.
- Spraying In the period from the beginning of spring to the beginning of autumn it is necessary to spray the plant three to four times a day. With the beginning of the autumn period, the number of day sprays can be reduced, and in the winter they should be avoided.
- Water quality For irrigation tillandsii you can only use soft water. Ideally - mineral without gas. But the usual tap water for several days will do as well.
- Bypassing the inflorescences. When spraying water should not fall on the inflorescences. Therefore, do not direct the spray gun toward the peduncle or cover it with improvised means at the moment of irrigation.
Watering is one of the stumbling blocks for owners of epiphytic plants. If spraying water is still suitable for spraying in half, it is alas for irrigation. Water tillandsii can be exclusively thawed snow or rainwater. In a city, collecting rainwater is particularly difficult. Therefore, in their reviews, experienced growers recommend making ice in the freezer, and then defrost it for watering.
Potted indoor flower species need a lot of moisture. In the period from March to September, the top layer of soil in the pot should not have time to dry. And starting from October and throughout the winter, the frequency of irrigation can be reduced by adding water to the pot only when the top layer of soil dries out and becomes slightly damp.
If you started growing an atmospheric variety that has a miniature root system, use a special pole or piece of bark. In this case, water the plant is not necessary. Moisture, it will pull out from the bark on which it lives, and from the air. Spraying such plants will be enough.
We provide a warm shower
Twice a month, regardless of the season, the flower should take a shower. First of all, bath procedures are necessary in order to wash away the dirt accumulated in the leaves. But be careful: the water should not fall on the peduncle. Otherwise, the flowering period of tillandsia will be significantly reduced.
You can try to wrap the bracts with plastic wrap, while refusing to stifle fixation. The optimum temperature for shower water is 28 ° C.
We fertilize wisely
Top dressing is another mandatory item in flower care rules. You should pay attention to the following four nuances.
- Fertilizer selection. Tillandia can be fed either with fertilizer for orchids, or with a tool that does not contain metals such as copper and boron. The latter are poison for an evergreen epiphytic plant.
- Fertilizer concentration. It is necessary to carefully dilute the means for feeding. Read the instructions on the packaging and prepare a solution four times less concentrated than the manufacturer recommends.
- Feeding period. Fertilize tillandsii necessary from March to September. In the autumn-winter period, the plant does not require additional vitamins and minerals.
- Frequency. Fertilizer should be added directly to the water for irrigation, pouring the solution directly into the center of the outlet. It is enough to do it once a month and a half. In the more frequent feeding, as a rule, there is no need.
Difficulties in transplanting
In the spring tillandsii transplanted into another pot. "Room relocation" is organized annually. For some varieties of the flower is a vital process, without which the plant will not bloom, and may later completely die. As a rule, 12 months is enough for the root system of pot varieties in order to grow and increase substantially in volume. If you see that the roots are asking outside, it means it's time to start preparing for changing the pot and the ground. The latter, by the way, is changing completely, and not partially.
A wide but low pot will be an optimal container for tillandia. It is important that the diameter of the new pot was slightly larger than the diameter of the old one. But not much.
The soil necessary to re-plant the tillandia can be prepared independently using the recipe below. All ingredients are taken in a 1: 1 ratio. Before planting, it is necessary to produce high-quality aeration, that is, to fluff the earth and saturate it with oxygen. It is important not to forget about the organization of drainage. Ingredients of the substrate for planting:
- leafy humus
- shallow bark of pine,
- peat ground
- fern roots.
There are two types of tillandsia breeding methods available to home growers. The first - with the help of babies that appear after flowering. And the second - with the use of seeds, which can be purchased at a flower shop. Reproduction kiddies easier and simpler method. While over the seeds have pretty sweat.
Features When the flowering of Tillands is completed, the indoor plant forms several rosettes-kids. They will develop together with the mother plant in the same pot. When the "kids" reach 2/3 of the size of the "mother", they will need to be seated. It is imperative that the “babies” be planted from the mother flower. Otherwise, the latter may be exhausted and die. In this way, it is possible to propagate tillandia annually without additional difficulties.
- Preparing the substrate of peat and sand, mixing the ingredients of the soil in a ratio of 1: 1.
- After two or three months after the emergence of a side shoot, transplant it into a separate pot.
Features Growing tillandsii from seeds at home is a long and painstaking affair. If it is possible to provide planting material with a temperature of around 25 ° C, then after four weeks, you will see the first shoots. Tillandsia, which appeared from a seed, blooms at the age of five years.
- Fill the seedling container with a mixture of sand and peat, taken in a 1: 1 ratio, and pour over the prepared soil thoroughly.
- We spread the seeds on the surface of the earth, without pressing in and not dropping them.
- Cover the container with planting material with cling film or a piece of glass. We put in a warm place.
Reviews: “The main thing is not to transplant early, otherwise it will die.”
Such a beauty lives with me for 8 years; a lot of care doesn’t require the main thing not to transplant atoms early. It is necessary to wait for the kids to grow up enough, otherwise everything will disappear. I water according to the surface of the earth after 2 days. The pot is on the sunny side under the pouring sun. The ground should beat the permeable moss, usually the bark of the pine bark, peat leaves and black soil. After buying in flowering condition, it has passed into another pot with its substrate
Tillandsiya blue was presented to me by a friend for an anniversary because she knows that flowers are my passion (although with the advent of three cats in the house, the number of flowers has greatly decreased, but in the study they have increased significantly). I love unusual flowers and this flower seemed to me like that, because the bright pink inflorescence in itself attracts attention, and when small lilac flowers appear from it, the excitement increases a hundredfold. During the three years that I have had a flower, it has grown a lot, three additional sockets have appeared, but what is most offensive is that the flower never bloomed again (the seller in a flower shop advised me to put a banana peel in a pot, but I’ve been I did not wait). But it can be said that the flower itself is not whimsical and does not require special care (transplanting once a year, shower and wiping the leaves, feeding and watering as the earth dries out).
I bought my tillandia in the summer, before that I had never seen this beautiful flower. Care for her is not difficult. Loves the light, but without direct sunlight, water only in the pan, often sprayed. Tillandsiya blooms paired, not large lilac flowers. These flowers stand for about a week, then fade and a new pair appears, and so five times. After the flower had completely bloomed, this pink tail (I don’t know how to call it correctly) began to turn green. After standing green for a few weeks, the tail began to propodate, realizing that nothing would save him, I cut it off. I thought the whole flower would disappear, but no, new leaves appear.
From the master's shoulder, they gave me a nondescript flower, which was presented as tillandsia: a pair of stunted bushes with long, thorny leaves in an old scary pot. I did not like the flower, I decided to donate it to someone, and even began to look for “good hands” for him. Not so easy. It is a pity to give to anyone, all the same, a living soul, and he is not guilty, that he is so ugly. I decided to give him a new pot before parting. She began to transplant, even wondered what kind of trash he had - like sand with some kind of garbage and expanded clay. I planted it in ordinary garden soil, only peat and more sand, all the same it looks like a cactus. And then I decided to read about him. And I realized that “sand with garbage” was a substrate specially prepared for it, like where orchids are planted. And it blooms wonderful (when it is good to him). And I have it in the usual land! I rushed to see what was there with him, and saw that the leaves had finished and now do not hang like washcloths, but look cheerfully upwards, all the green ones (from brown) have become, and new ones have begun to grow. Now I break my head. After all, the soil for him is not at all what he needs, but he likes it. I do not even know what to do.
After flowering, the mother plant is alive and healthy and grows with one offspring. I separated the second offspring - it has been growing for a year separately. Separated offspring almost a year was stuck in the substrate, but did not give roots. I put it in a glass with water at the very bottom - after 3-4 months the roots appeared.