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What to do with seedlings and how to keep them before planting in the spring

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September is the month of laying gardens and raspberries. Many owners during this period acquire seedlings in order to have time to plant them before the onset of sustained frost. However, the autumn weather - the lady is capricious and unpredictable. What to do if you do not have time to plant fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, currants or raspberries in the fall? How to keep purchased seedlings until spring without losing their properties at home? Full answers, tips and tricks - here!

Terms of planting in the fall: for each has its own temperature

In order to understand whether you have time to plant seedlings in open ground, whether they should be prepared for winter and spring planting, you need to take into account not only the time of autumn planting, the temperature of air and soil, but also the features of the planted plants. In order not to be mistaken, you can use the general landing guidelines:

  • ambient temperature The optimum temperature for the landing is + 7-12 ° C. With such indicators and warm soil, the plant is able to grow in 1-1.5 months a sufficient root system for a comfortable wintering. This means that the new “inhabitants” of the garden will delight you in the spring with a healthy and flourishing appearance.

Council It is not necessary to plant the plants outside the terms and temperatures. Culture will experience serious stress, will give all its forces to survival and will be engaged in recovery throughout the following year. And we need a young and healthy garden.

Briefly about the main thing: seedlings with open and closed root system

It is no secret that many nurseries and private farms offer planting material for fruit, conifer and berry bushes with a closed root system. The purchase of such a plant has several advantages during autumn planting:

  • long terms of rooting, because such material can be purchased at the end of the summer and landed in open ground when it is most convenient. Consequently, he will have time to take root and will be ready for winter,
  • rooting ease. The planting of such plants is carried out together with the earth lump, which allows not to disturb the roots and the processes occurring in them. Culture tolerates stress more easily, restores own strength faster,
  • ease of landing. Probably the easiest way to call such a process is transshipment: you need to carefully put the plant (previously taken out of the container) into a prepared pit, fill it with soil, compact it, shed it. And that's it!

Of course, storing such seedlings until spring is easier if for some reason you could not plant them in the fall. They are enough to put in the basement with a temperature of + 0-4 ° C, freeing from the leaves, pour over the entire period 2-3 times. In the spring - to land!

Saplings with an open root system, purchased in the fall and not planted, require more careful storage. Several common ways - and you get spring strong and healthy plants, ready to transplant!

Storing seedlings in the winter at home: 3 current methods

So, you did not have time to plant the acquired trees and shrubs in the fall. There is a long winter ahead, money is spent, landing pits are waiting for their “owners”. Every effort should be made to save the plants for spring planting. It is easy to do in 3 ways:

Method number 1: Snow. This option is most suitable for berry bushes, the standard length of which is up to 30 cm. Each seedling must be wrapped with a spanbond, placed in several plastic bags, folded on a garden bed and well pinned. Throughout the winter, it is necessary to follow the snow "cap" on the garden bed, which should not be less than 15-20 cm. It will create the optimum temperature and humidity conditions that will allow the young tree to survive the winter without loss.

Method №2: Storage in the basement. The main condition is temperature, which should be in the range of + 2 ° C to + 10 ° C. To save the seedlings they have rows on the floor, the roots are sprinkled with river sand (not the soil from the garden!). All winter you need to keep the sand in a wet state, but not to fill. Humidity - 70-80%.

Method number 3: prikop. This option is most common among experienced summer residents. Although it requires time and effort, but is able to provide optimal conditions for wintering. To create a prikop it is necessary to dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm and a length - depending on the amount of planting material (10-20 cm of land should be allocated to one seedling).

The ground taken out of the trench must be mixed with sand and peat and returned to the sub-pit again. Plants can make young roots in early spring, it will be much easier to break through them in a light substrate. After the prikop is ready, it is necessary to prepare seedlings. To do this, they must be freed from the leaves, sanitary pruning, soak for 4-5 in clean water, remove and dry. Next - put in prikop, tops to the south, rooted to the north, shed. Sprinkle with earth, forming a gentle mound (for the absence of water stagnation). And the whole secret!

Council If your storage capacity is limited - put the existing plants in the fridge, wrapping a covering material and a plastic bag. The optimum temperature will allow the seedlings to live until spring. After disembarking in open ground will require more careful care.

It turns out that saving seedlings until spring is not so difficult. Competent actions and the desire to get a rich garden - that's all you need! Great yields!

Where to store seedlings before planting

The method of storage of seedlings is determined by various factors: the necessary period of storage of planting material before planting, climatic conditions, the availability of suitable premises, etc. Consider these methods in more detail.

Using prikop allows you to save seedlings throughout the winter until planting. The prikop itself is a trench. It should be dug in a fairly dry place. For this fit, for example, potato or tomato beds. The trench needs to be oriented in the west-east direction. The depth of the trench is half a meter. The length depends on the number of plants that are attached - they should be fairly free in the trench. The northern wall of the trench is made steep, at a right angle. The south should be tilted approximately at an angle of 45 °.

All excavated land is thrown over the northern edge of the trench. Sand and peat are mixed into the ground, taken out of the trench. If necessary, seedlings are prepared for wintering: remove uncut leaves and damaged roots.

After this, the plants can be laid in a trench. They are laid with trunks on the southern, gently sloping side, so that the roots will be oriented to the north and the tops to the south. A trench with seedlings placed in it is sprinkled, but not completely, with about 20 cm of previously excavated and prepared soil.

In this form, the prikop is left before the onset of stable frosts, i.e. every night the air temperature should fall below zero. If frosts have occurred, the remaining soil will be poured into the trench, and in the process of adding soil, layers of earth must be poured with water so that the soil is compacted. On top of the trench it is necessary to form a mound, which will help avoid the accumulation of melt water in it in the spring.

Under a thick layer of snow

If in winter a steady and abundant snow cover is formed, then the seedlings can be kept simply in the snow. First, before the precipitation falls, they are stored in an unheated room, for which they are prewrapped with a moistened cloth (preferably with burlap) and a film.

When snow falls in sufficient quantities (at least 15 cm cover is recommended), plants can be laid. The roots of the seedling are dipped in a bag of burlap, filled with a mixture of sawdust and peat, tied this bag around the bottom of the trunk. The branches gently. The whole plant is wrapped with polyethylene and fixed with a scotch tape. To bury the plant should be in a shaded area of ​​the garden, where direct sunlight does not fall and there is no danger of weathering snow.

In a cold place

Seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator, if, of course, allow the size of the equipment and will not mind this use of family members. To do this, the plant is wrapped with 2-3 layers of wet gauze, then simply placed in a plastic bag.

No need to tie this bag, otherwise a clogged plant can moldy. The optimal storage temperature is 0 ° C ... + 2 ° C. This method is suitable only for relatively short-term storage, usually not more than three weeks.

Instead of a refrigerator, you can use a glazed balcony or loggia. Preparation for storage is exactly the same as when using the refrigerator. When the seedlings are purchased with a root system packed in a soil substrate, then for storage, you need to pierce the protective film in several places. If a lump of earth is dry, it should be moistened a little, but not watered plentifully. In this form, the plant can last two to three weeks. In the case of storage in the cellar, the seedlings are dipped in plastic bags and sprinkled with wet sawdust.

Leave upright. Packages can not be tightly tied to prevent damage to the plant. In addition to packages, boxes can also be used for storage in the cellar. Seedlings are placed in an upright position and covered with wet sand or wet sawdust. For the entire storage period, the substrate is kept moist.

The optimal temperature for storage in the cellar is -2 ° C ... + 2 ° C. It is better to prevent overcooling or overheating, therefore it is desirable to control temperatures with a thermometer. If the cellar is very dry, you can increase the humidity of the air by putting an open container with water in it. However, high humidity, over 60%, is dangerous for seedlings and can destroy them. For storage of planting material in unheated utility rooms, such as a shed or garage, boxes are used. They are filled with sawdust or hay and seedlings are placed there in an upright position, wrapped in film.

They should not come into contact with the walls of the box, and the minimum distance to the walls should be at least 10 cm. Top and bottom of them covered with several layers of sacking or just old things. Full safety of all planting material with this method of storage is not guaranteed.

Sometimes signs of development are already noticeable on purchased seedlings, but it is still early to plant them in open ground. In this case, plants can be saved by transplanting them into a container. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are immersed in clean water for 12 hours, after which the plant is planted in a container with a capacity of 2-3 liters.

The container with the plant is placed in some cool room, protected from direct sunlight - it can be, for example, a glazed balcony or a glazed veranda. Watering and feeding plants should be minimal, so as not to provoke its premature rapid growth. Landing is usually done in May. It should be borne in mind that with this method of planting the plant is always weakened and will require more careful care in the near future.

Coniferous plants

These plants can not be stored in the cellar. But, if they are sold in a container (and most often it happens), you can prikopat them in the garden without removing it from the container, in a place protected from wind and sun. At the same time, it is necessary to sprinkle the soil over the roots with peat for better insulation.

The top of the seedling should be carefully covered with a covering material. There is another good option for storing coniferous plants. For this purpose, an unheated garage or shed is used. The technology of preparation for such storage is described above. The only caveat - no need to wrap the crown of the plant.

Shrubs

Peculiarities of shrub placement completely coincide with the methods of storing fruit trees seedlings. Those. The best places are the cellar, prikop and snow.

The best storage methods for grapes are prikop and cellar. If a prikop is used, the grape cuttings tied together in bunches are laid in a trench (tightly). Before laying the roots it is recommended to dip into a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This method is often practiced if the cuttings very much.

The best storage method for roses is prikop. In extreme cases, if the rose has awakened ahead of time, use containers in cool rooms, as described above.

Useful tips for gardeners

When storing plants should consider some of the nuances:

  • if materials necessary for storing seedlings, such as sawdust, sand, etc. if they froze, it is better to defrost them with boiling water,
  • a layer of sawdust can be poured over the seedlings stored under the snow - this will save the snow during thaws,
  • the best substrate for roses is wet river sand, not sawdust,
  • to protect the prikop from rodents, you can cover it with a fine-mesh net.

So, there is a sufficient number of ways to store plant seedlings, both for a short time and for the entire autumn-winter period. The main thing is to choose the best way for a particular type of plants and adhere to the rules when laying them in storage, since they are quite simple. Knowledge of these methods is especially important when planting purchased seedlings becomes impossible due to weather conditions, which happens quite often.

BUY SEEDLINGS

Before buying a seedling carefully inspect it.

He must be healthy, the bark - not damaged. This is the first thing to pay attention to.

When buying during the frosty period, pay attention to the buds: they should be in a sleeping state, and the seedling itself should not be overdried (which is well displayed on the bark, it becomes wrinkled, a slight crunch is heard when bent).

The shoots of a healthy seedling are elastic, easily bent, have the even color of the bark, buds are clearly visible.

Carefully look at the vaccination site:one hundred accretions of stock and scion must be clean, with a characteristic scar.

The tops of the seedlings can be pruned - it’s not scary, form a new leader during the growing season, and in a year or two you will not see the place of the cut.

Blooming buds on the seedling are permissibleIn this case, we can plant it immediately on a permanent place, and there is no need for storage.

SAVE BEFORE SITING

Do not add purchased seedlings to heat, this you only stimulate growth. Wrap them with non-woven covering material and store them in a cold room before landing (ideally in a cellar, in a cold basement, garage, or even on a balcony).

Check soil conditiondo not let it dry out, moisten it in a timely manner, but do not pour it either.

The seedling must be accompanied by a label indicating the variety, it must be attached to the seedling or to the container in which it was grown.

Before planting (or immediately after) protect the plant from sunburn,

You can use covering material or garden whitewash.

Fruit shrubs

All seedlings of fruit bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, blackberries), grown in containers, after the purchase can be stored outdoors in the shade or in a cold room until the landing on a permanent place.

Saplings with open root systempurchased in the nursery, immediately put in a bag, wrap the roots in a cloth or paper, moisten and keep in the shade. On the garden plot, if the place for planting is not yet ready, prikopite seedlings on the garden bed, sprinkle the roots with soil, and water well. It is not necessary to soak such seedlings, some are immersed in a bucket of water - this is a mistake! An attempt to soak off dried seedlings, of course, has the right to be, but in this case it is much more effective to cut the roots with sharp shears, cut the shoots down strongly, and then plant the plant in loose fertile soil and water it well.

Blackberry and raspberry seedlings should be selected with care. Do not forget that the shoots of these crops live for two years. In the first year, they gain vegetative mass, in the second year - they bloom and give berries, then they dry out. Therefore, seedlings should be sprouts of the first year, and they will give the first harvest only in the second year.

Perennials

Perennial flower crops are most often offered by vendors in the spring. The desire to purchase a new variety is great, and in February, colorful packaging appears. But it is still very early, and we do not understand what to do with them, how to save them until the time they are planted in the garden in April-May.

MODERN VARIETIES OF HYBRID Iris amaze the imagination with the shape and color of flowers (white, pink, crimson, blue, blue). On the garden plots, old varieties are often found, many consider them almost weedy, they are often deposited from the plot on the side of the garden roads, even discarded, they often take root, grow and bloom beautifully in the wastelands.

Modern varieties, in contrast to the “unkillable” old ones, are often capricious, which undoubtedly pays off with their beauty.

In the spring, delenki appear on the market for the desired rhizome of a single "spatula" of leaves (the so-called fan of iris leaves). Carefully inspect the delenka: rot, sores and damage should not be. Помните, что это растение лучше подсушить (пусть даже листья будут практически высохшими, они это перенесут легче), чем держать сильно влажным. Сырым оно легко загнивает.

Поврежденные корневища ириса можно вылечить, подгнившие части — срезать острым ножом до здоровой ткани, а срез — припудрить толченым древесным углем или обработать обычной зеленкой, нанеся ее на срез ватным тампоном. Store rhizomes in a dry, cold place, rarely slightly moisturizing to avoid drying out.

Daylilies and hosts have a well-developed root system, often with just one kidney. There are such delenki most often in packages with openings for ventilation. Choose healthy specimens with a well-shaped kidney. They should be put in peat pots and put into a cold room or cellar, occasionally slightly moisturized. And in the garden to a permanent place they can be planted with a pot.

Hosta. Before buying, be careful with the description of the variety. Pay attention to the size of the bush: the hosts are very different in size of the leaves - there are giants with the size of the bush up to a meter, and there are kids who have a bush no more than 20 cm. Consider this when planting in a permanent place.

Day-lily. This plant, on the contrary, grows well in the sun - practically does not bloom in a deep shade and does not grow well. Varietal variety of this perennial bribes a lot of colors, long flowering and unpretentiousness.

I want to draw attention to the lilac. There is an opinion that it is easy to propagate it - just dig up the seedlings and plant.

But disappointment comes with the flowering of the sprouted seedlings: instead of the desired variety, the most common lilac blooms. The point is this: varieties are often propagated by grafting, inoculating varietal on wild growth - which will bloom in you, if you separate the growth from it. Varietal lilacs have a weak root system, so it is advisable to propagate them by grafting, like apples, pears, plums.

WINTER SEEDING OF SEEDLINGS

If you bought seedlings, but plan to plant for some reason only in the spring, then they need to be properly buried. Saplings grown on their own site require temporary digging if the time from digging up to planting is more than a day.

Purchased seedlings, if they were in the package with the “burnt-out” root system for more than 3 days, should be held for 2-3 hours in the water before winter digging. They are saturated with moisture in order to better endure the winter period.

PLOT FOR BOOTING choose on an elevated position. It must be cleared of weeds in advance. They dig a trench with a depth sufficient for free placement of the root system, from west to east, the southern wall is made obliquely at an angle of 40-45 °.

BUNCHES OF SEEDLINGS or seedlings are laid with a slope to the south (protection from sunburn) at an angle of 30-45 °. You can untie the bunches so that the soil fits snugly to the roots, then cover the entire root system and part of the trunk with loose earth. After digging, the soil is compacted around the roots, and then abundant watering is carried out until the air gaps are completely covered.

IN WINTER TIME (in the thaw, when the snow is loose), it is necessary to clear the prikhopochny site (from mice) and lay out the poisoned bait.

AFTER THE MELTING OF SNOW, in order to avoid early budding, it is necessary to transfer the seedlings to

basement. In this case, the root system is filled with wet sawdust or placed in a bag with a wet substrate. Substrate moisture must be strictly controlled to avoid overdrying of seedlings.

Instead of prikopki, you can store seedlings in the winter in the basement at temperatures from minus 1 ° to 1 °. The root system at the same time should be in regularly moistened loose substrate (sand, peat, sawdust, etc.). After placing the seedlings in the basement, spraying them with basezol (10 g per 10 l) should be carried out, and in February-March it should be repeated. Early in the spring, snowing of saplings is carried out in the basement: the substrate in which the root system of the plants is located is covered with snow.

THE BENEFITS OF STORAGE in the basement before storing in the street digging are as follows: less labor intensiveness, greater safety of seedlings (including mice and sunburns), delayed bud breakdown in spring.

The disadvantage of this method of storage is the possible heating of the trunks and branches of seedlings due to high temperature and humidity in the room.

© Author: E. KAPLIN, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Michurinsk

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How to save seedlings in the spring before planting at home

In February-April, the active sale of seedlings begins. At fairs and nurseries dazzle boxes with future trees, shrubs, flowers. Eyes scatter, and there is a desire to buy a lot of things at once. You should not refuse, there are several ways to save seedlings before planting at home.

Inspection and preparation

Purchased seedlings before storage should be immediately marked (hang a tag with the name of the variety), inspect the buds and roots.

Delivered specimens in February-March, most likely still have dormant buds.

There may be those who have already gone to growth, but still small, no more than 2 cm. They are also suitable for "sealing".

If the buds are already actively growing, then before planting in a permanent place, the seedling is planted in a pot as a houseplant.

Broiled and broken off roots, long, dried or diseased shoots cut with garden shears. Shorten long roots. Process the slices with brilliant green or sprinkle with crushed coal.

Damaged fungus shoots can not be left for storage, the disease spread throughout the seedling and by the time of planting will have nothing to plant.

If young trees were sent by mail, then the root system could dry. Wrap the roots in a damp cotton cloth before storing it and hold it for a while.

In grafted specimens, especially rose seedlings, check the place of vaccination. Often there is no protective paraffin plug and to protect a sensitive place, it is wrapped with polyethylene.

How to save seedlings before planting

It is difficult to save purchased seedlings at home, because besides the coolness, you also need to find a place. We offer several options:

  1. Prepare a clean thin plastic film, make holes in it for ventilation. Wrap the seedlings, wrap them in a newspaper to protect them from light, and secure with rubber bands or tapes. Place in dry plastic containers and store in a dark, cool place.
  2. The cuttings are usually small and for them you can make room for storage even in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf.
  3. Large saplings of trees and shrubs are placed in boxes with wet sand, while the roots do not wrap.
  4. To prevent the root system from drying out, place it in a plastic bag, make several holes in it so that the roots do not start to rot. Wrap the top of the newspaper and secure with ribbons or rubber. Put in a plastic container and put in a dark cool place, at home, the best option would be a balcony.

A cap from a newspaper or a covering material, dressed on a seedling, will protect from sunlight, thus the period of rest will be extended.

  1. Plant as a houseplant. Please note that in each pot there are drainage holes that we do not need. So that the water is not washed out, the bottom of the pot is covered with a cloth and only then the earth is poured.

Cuttings or seedlings before planting soak in potassium humate. How to prepare the solution indicated on the packaging. After planting, transfer the pot to a room where the temperature varies between 5-7 ° C. When the buds wake up and go to growth, move the pot to a bright, cool place.

Grape shoots can be saved before planting in other ways; for more details, see the topic “How to save grapes cuttings in winter”.

Storage conditions

Before planting, it is important to monitor the temperature and humidity level. Here a hygrometer will be a good helper. The temperature of the surrounding space should be within 0 ... + 2 ° С. It is under her that the plants fall into a state of rest and calmly survive the waiting time.

If the apartment on the first floor is a cellar, then it is better to move the seedlings until planting in the cellar for storage.

During the resting state, do not disclose the planting material, and do not touch it again, it is quite enough to check the condition of the kidneys very carefully once a month.

If the seedlings are purchased in the fall, and you need to save until spring, then in winter they are placed in the prikop. To protect against field rodents from above spread the branches of juniper or spruce.

© Author: KONSTANTIN FIRSTOV, Chief Agronomist

Buying plants is a responsible business. Tell you about that. what you need to pay attention when choosing saplings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs

SPRING IS A TIME FOR BUYING PLANTS, LIKE FRUIT, SO AND DECORATIVE. IT IS IMPORTANT NOT ONLY TO CORRECTLY CHOOSING A TREE, A BUSH OR A FLOWER, BUT AND SAVE IT BEFORE LITTING TO THE GARDEN. THIS AND TALK

We will learn to choose, store and plant planting material in the spring.

Saplings grown in containers are the easiest to tolerate transplantation, their root system is well developed, not disturbed, such plants quickly take root and grow. It turns out that we simply cross the plants: when we take them out of the container and plant them in the garden, we preserve the integrity of the root system.

Saplings grown on the field, in the nursery, are often packaged in film, after adding root nutrient to the roots and forming a briquette, which is placed in a colorful packaging. The root system of such plants does not dry out; a seedling can be stored for several months in this state.

Fruit trees

Let's be friends!

we plant correctly

Whose you guys will be?

How not to make a mistake when choosing saplings? When buying a sapling in the fall, the buyer has the opportunity to assess its quality, and sometimes the correspondence to a particular variety on the leaves. In the spring, it is quite difficult even for a specialist to determine the seedling variety, and an ordinary buyer cannot always distinguish cherries from pears, therefore seedlings should always be purchased from reliable, trusted vendors. Best of all, if the person who raised the seedling is himself the seller of his goods. Then he knows almost everything about his brainchild. If the seedlings are grown in one of the local farms, which are a large nursery, then they inoculate - some, dig up - others, and sell - others. There are more chances to acquire regrading in such an economy, but the quality of seedlings is usually good. Here much depends on the promptness of the chief agronomist of the farm.

The lion's share of all seedlings sold on the market is occupied by the so-called “fishing rods” - seedlings brought from the southern regions. Annual saplings (without side branches) can reach two meters, hence the nickname. Two-year-old Southerners (with side branches) look like our three-four-year-olds, so they are in great demand among novice gardeners. Such seedlings have one fate - everything that is above the snow cover, they freeze annually and die after winter. The most unpleasant thing here is that the sellers of southern saplings never admit that the seedlings are imported, but hide behind either the honest name of a reputed nursery, or are referred to as completely non-existing nurseries. For example, the Orenburg Nursery, although I know for sure that over the past ten years, none of the nurseries operating near Orenburg, which, by the way, have very specific names, have not traveled to the city of Orsk with seedlings. In order to somehow protect yourself from deception, you can ask the seller for a passport, the address and telephone number of the nursery. If the seller, however, causes you to distrust, call or go to the specified address and purchase seedlings on the spot. After all, with some trepidation, we sometimes expect fruiting, taking care of the plant for several years, and what a disappointment there is when you realize that you have been deceived in a brazen manner.

Special talk about the purchase of seedlings by mail. Without this, now can not do, especially if I would like to purchase some new product. But there may be several problems. First, you need to understand that the burden of testing in our climatic conditions of this new, sent from another region, falls on you. Not the fact that well-advertised varieties will grow well with us. After all, they could be grown in warmer areas or, generally, abroad - somewhere in Poland or Holland. Secondly, long posting, during which it is impossible to create normal storage conditions, greatly weakens living plants. And, thirdly, a frank deception, when, using powerful advertising, you are offered at fabulous prices some kind of curling strawberry, which does not exist in nature. Respectable sellers of planting material, as a rule, indicate the postal address of the nursery, telephones, the names of the managers or owners, and do not hide behind a faceless mailbox. Usually they sell seedlings not only by mail, but also in the nursery, or they have their own trade pavilions.

The quality of seedlings.

The quality of seedlings must be learned to determine for yourself. The best quality seedlings are kept in the nursery until spring implementation, as a rule, in special storage facilities at a certain temperature. When such saplings are taken from a cold storage for sale, their buds are completely unblown, although the trees on the street can already be green. The bark of healthy seedlings should be smooth, if it is knocked over with a nail, then the wound should be green and moist, otherwise the seedling may be dried out. If a sold sapling has blossomed leaves - it is definitely alive at the moment, and it looks more attractive than without leaves, but such a seedling has already spent a lot of food on forcing the leaves, so it will take a long time to take root or die.

All apple and pear seedlings, as well as most plum and cherry seedlings should be grafted. The harness of the vaccination site at the time of implementation should be removed. Sapling with strapping - not completed yet. By removing it at home, you may find that the vaccination site is heavily transmitted and, thus, weakened. Some saplings of cherries and plums may not be grafted, that is, be rooted-rooted. These are normal seedlings, but you need to be prepared for the fact that such seedlings can produce abundant growth in the garden. Therefore, the most modern saplings of plum and cherry, at present, are produced grafted onto special clone stocks that do not give shoots.

When choosing seedlings, it is necessary to know that different cultures have saplings of the same age of different sizes. The smallest are dwarf apple trees, although their production is more expensive than strong-growing apple trees. Then come dwarf pears and grafted cherries. The largest seedlings are plum, apricot, vigorous apple trees and pears. Make sure that the root system is proportionate to the above-ground part (approximately half of the seedling should ideally occupy the root). Even if you are served already packed seedling - be sure to inspect the root, you can trim the root tips to make sure that they are not black and have not dried.

Save the seedlings before planting.

So, the seedlings are selected, but it will take some time before planting - from several hours to several days. I must say that this is a very crucial period for which inexperienced gardeners can ruin good seedlings. The root system of plants is designed so that it can absorb water very quickly, but, at the same time, it can also evaporate moisture just as quickly. The roots dry quickly in the open air, so they need to be carefully packed in polyethylene, after sprinkling with water or wrapped in a damp cloth. Store seedlings before planting should be in a cool place. A sapling, packed in polyethylene and left, for example, on a sunny balcony, can simply be cooked there under a film. Before planting, the seedling's root system, especially if it has dried out, can be dipped into the water for several hours. But storing seedlings in water for a long time is impossible.

Correctly plant.

Cooking landing pits. For trees and large shrubs about 50 to 50 cm, for smaller shrubs smaller. The top layer of the earth is in one side of the pit, the bottom in the other. At the bottom of the pit with the cone we pour one or two buckets of humus mixed with the earth from the upper layer, set the seedling on the cone, straightening the roots, first fall asleep with the remnants of the upper earth, and then the lower one. Abundantly watered. After the water is absorbed, and the soil in the hole proyadet, we fall asleep with the remnants of the earth and build curbs near the hole, we can mulch the hole with humus to eliminate the cracking of the earth. Trees and some grafted shrubs should preferably be tied to a peg stuck next to the seedling so that it will not be broken by gusts of wind. Here are the basic recommendations for all seedlings. It remains to understand the depth of planting and the distance between plants.

Саженцы на семенных подвоях заглубляют до корневой шейки – условному месту перехода корня в ствол. Прививка в данном случае будет на 5 – 15 см выше уровня земли. Саженцы на клоновых подвоях, то есть на подвоях, размноженных при помощи отводков или зеленого черенкования, как правило, сажают в землю до уровня прививки. Но и здесь могут быть различные варианты, в зависимости от поставленных задач. Например, карликовая груша в качестве корня имеет айву, обладающую невысокой зимостойкостью. When properly planted, when the graft is at ground level, the quince is completely in the ground and winters well. But in critical cold snowless winters and, especially, if a dwarf pear is planted in an unfortunate place where all the snow is constantly blown out from under it, the root system may freeze. To avoid this, you can deepen the vaccination site below the ground level of centimeters by 10 - 20. This will in no way affect the entry of the dwarf pear into fruiting already in the third year. But, over time, a deep-set pear can go to its roots and grow more vigorous than a dwarf tree. If you also dip a plum by accident, then by going to its roots, it can produce shoots. The stock for plums that we use is very winter-hardy, so it is permissible that the vaccination site is above the ground.

The distance between the seedlings in a row is approximately the same. Between dwarf apple trees, pears and cherries 2 m, between semi-dwarf apple trees - 2.5 m, between plums - 3 m, between apricots and ordinary (vigorous) apple trees and pears - 4 m. When planted in several rows, the distance between the rows increases one or two meters. Rows, for better illumination, are located from north to south.

When purchasing seedlings, it is necessary to take care of their normal pollination. Apple trees, cherries, and in recent years, pears, which are widespread in our gardens, have no problems with pollination. Plums is better to plant at least two different, belonging to related species. Sea buckthorn at least two plants. One male and one, or several, female. A male plant will not bear fruit. Pollinated by the wind, so plant nearby. Honeysuckle plant at least two, and preferably three bushes of different varieties. Everybody will bear fruit. Apricots are considered partially self-fertile. Often, single trees are excellent fruit. But in order not to risk, it is better to plant two different ones. Grape varieties have a different type of flower, so if you don’t know for sure if you have a variety that is self-propelled or not, it’s better to plant several different varieties. Raspberries, currants and gooseberries do not usually have problems with pollination, as it is widespread in our gardens, but still it is tied better in multi-sowing plantings. But the blackberry is all self-fertile, so it only needs one bush for pollination.

Gardener Dolbnya F.I. 2010

how to store currant seedlings before planting

January 1 Now I want to tell you how to save seedlings before planting in the ground. Ways: 1 is the best. send seedlings to a prikop, before putting it into a prikop, I remove the packaging (polyethylene or box), leaving only peat on

She ordered seedlings with ACS (apples, cherries, currants, and others), but she went out and they were planted (they send her husband on a business trip), they will need to be kept at home for a week. Or maybe they can be planted in pots with the ground before planting?

Sea buckthorn is a rather winter-hardy plant, although in particularly cold winters sprigs and color buds can freeze over. Its productivity directly depends on the weather, and only individuals of the female sex produce fruits. In order to carry out their pollination is necessary and the male seedling. Gender of the plant can most often be determined only with the beginning of fruiting

Planting site and soil

Sea buckthorn loves the sunlit areas, if you shade it, it begins to grow poorly and bears fruit rather poorly. The plant should be planted on light soils with a high degree of fertility and a sufficient level of moisture. It does not like water stagnation, therefore groundwater must be at a depth of at least one meter from the soil surface. Acidic soils are subject to liming with the addition of hydrated lime (from four to six hundred grams per square meter). This substance is scattered over the surface of the earth, and then carry out a digging on the spade bayonet. Such training is usually carried out in October.

If you are going to plant a plant on heavy and loamy soil, it is worthwhile to improve its breathability by mixing the upper layers with river sand (rather coarse-grained), as well as peat or humus, observing an approximately equal ratio. Two hundred grams of superphosphate and thirty to fifty grams of potassium salt should also be mixed with such a substrate. Neither lime nor nitrogenous fertilizers can be applied inside the planting pit, as they can cause root burns.

January 17, 2009 What they usually do - cover the roots, store in a cool place until planting. Saplings start to grow, white thin roots develop - the most basic plant feeders when planted.

Selecting a plot for planting sea buckthorn, please note that its roots extend beyond the crown for another couple of meters. Therefore, you should not dig these areas, they must be regularly loosened to five to ten centimeters in depth.

You should not buy sea buckthorn seedlings in an unchecked random place. Standard planting material should have from three to five skeletal roots, whose length is approximately twenty centimeters, a lot of fibrous. The trunk should be about forty centimeters in height and seven millimeters in diameter, it should be several shoots.

Sea buckthorn is best planted in the spring, even before the buds bloom. If you are a bit late with this, it is allowed to plant before flowering begins. The seedling is placed in a hole, in which there should be a small mound. You need to gently distribute the roots on it, then sprinkle them with a mixture of organic matter, soil and sand. Two hundred grams of double superphosphate is added to each well, mixing it with soil. Around the seedling is to form a wide hole and produce watering. For each bush take two buckets of water.

In the year of planting the plant does not need additional feeding, after it is necessary to introduce nitrogen fertilizers in the spring. During loosening every three to four years in the spring, it is necessary to introduce humus or compost mixed with mineral fertilizers. On a compost bucket take two to four spoons of nitrophoska. This mixture is designed for fertilizer of one square meter. You can also mix humus with fifteen grams of urea. In the autumn to humus or compost (in the amount of one bucket) it is worth adding thirty grams of double superphosphate and fifteen grams of potassium chloride.

Blog search. How to save grapes before planting in the garden. expand. That's the whole secret of preserving seedlings until spring.

Sea buckthorn loves moisture, it is necessary to carefully monitor the soil moisture, starting from the moment of planting the tree and until the fruit ripens on it. If necessary, pour three or four buckets of water onto the near-stem circle. Remember that the plant very badly tolerates stagnant water, although it reacts normally to prolonged flooding with running water.

The main secret of caring for sea buckthorn is the careful loosening of the soil. Most often, the plant begins to languish due to accidental damage to the common root system, so you need to loosen a maximum of six to eight centimeters deep.

If a tree gives a very rich harvest, its branches bends to the ground, and they can break from the wind. In this case, it is recommended to support them with supports. Having removed the crop, it is necessary to loosen the soil, to destroy the weeds and remove the supports.

In the cold season, there should be snow near the plant, but its height should not exceed seventy centimeters, since very high cover during thawing can break off branches. In the event that a lot of snow has accumulated, then closer to the spring it is necessary to free the branches from it.

It is convenient to pick sea-buckthorn berries when it is not very high. In the event that your tree has grown strongly, you can prune it to the desired height. The highest degree of productivity the plant reaches to the age of eight to twelve. Then experts advise just to cut down a tree. Then the sea buckthorn begins active recovery through pneumos. This is how a radical rejuvenation of a plant takes place, it grows remarkably and successfully bears fruit.

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We still have to save them before planting, because in our stores saplings appear as early as March, and they are planted in open ground not earlier than mid-May. March 21

When is it best to plant cherries, and how to preserve purchased seedlings before planting? Choose the "right" seedlings ↑. On the video - how to prikopat seedlings, if the planting time of the cherry is postponed.

How to save rose seedlings before planting? If you do not plan to plant them in the ground within the next 10 days, be sure to dig your roses. How to save roses before planting?

One thing remains - to find a way to save seedlings until spring. And yet, if you purchased container saplings, and were late with planting, try to save them all the same.

How to choose and save before planting February is an active time, they wake up and open their doors Of course, there is plenty of time before planting, because the seedlings of most crops are planted only in March and sometimes April, when February 3

At the end of autumn, inexpensive saplings of fruit trees are often on sale. How to keep them until spring, if planting is too late? L. Sigacheva, Moscow region

How to save seedlings before planting, seedlings, roses, buddleya. Options In this case, I recommend to plant the seedlings in containers with the substrate and store them until planting in a cold cellar, or in the garden, sheltered and safely covered for the winter.

How to keep the plant in the apartment before planting in the ground. Spring came, the beginning of the care of your garden and flower garden. Do not refrain from buying clematis because of the fear of death of the seedling before planting in the ground.

When the time comes to seed the seedlings, they will no longer be susceptible to disease, they will immediately grow and gain strength, whereas spring plantings. In order for planting material not to disappear during the winter, you need to know how to save the seedlings until spring.

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Hello, dear gardeners, gardeners and flower growers! Spring, you all acquire some plants, some of you have mapped out a road to one garden center, someone has mapped out a road to some nursery, but I will ask you very much, I just beg you, buy perennial plants, but in good firms, only in good stores, only in good nurseries! In no case do not allow yourself to buy plants somewhere on the roads from some random sellers. You can lose not only money, time, strength, but also nerves.

How to save saplings of trees and shrubs before planting in open ground

So, you have purchased an annual sapling, for example, an apple tree. It should look something like this. An annual seedling is literally a twig. If on the sapling suddenly some kind of side shoots were formed, then this is already a two-year sapling. Of course, in such packaging it is not entirely clear what is there, what roots, but, nevertheless, companies do not compromise themselves, so they usually make good packaging, as in this case you see. There is a substrate, the roots are clearly wetted, the substrate is wet — we will now see that it is well wrapped. See which substrate? Wet. So I touch a finger - my finger gets dirty. We have to open it, and before planting it is already in the garden - and it’s still too early to plant, we still cannot prepare pits, because the soil is frozen, - during this time we should help the plant at least a little. We will take it and put it in some container, in a pot. Do not keep it somewhere in the bath or in the kitchen on the floor, and take this plant to the balcony. On the balcony, it is great to continue to relax. See, the buds are still asleep. And at this time you should try to choose a plant with dormant buds, so that the buds are adherent, the tissues are elastic at the shoots. So they must bend. It means that the plant is pretty, pretty, big buds.

Check the condition of the purchased tree sapling trunk or shrub

Here is our root system. It often happens that the manufacturer twists the roots when they are too big. And we see with you that the tip of the spine is white. It means that the plant has already come to life, it means that it is about to start growing. And being in such a capacity in which it was, it is clear that this apple tree may simply die, despite the fact that you buy a good product.

Here we have a little freed the roots from the substrate, gave them freedom. For such a root system, such a two-liter capacity will suffice. Drainage can pour, and you can not pour, because if you pour drainage, it will be a bit crowded to the root system. Therefore, nothing terrible, a month and a half just this plant will stay with us in a new container with neat waterings, maybe even have to feed a little plant. We sprinkle the soil. But what kind of soil? You can take, for example, the soil is garden soil, or we have prepared universal soil in advance, where we have the soil from the garden, and river sand, and the turf is very good, and perlite, vermiculite. So the soil - just sit down and grow.

Check the condition of the roots of the purchased seedlings of a tree or shrub

So, we take, we pour a little bit of soil on the bottom - we should always do this - so that the bottom is not naked, and the roots do not immediately lay down on the bottom. Sprinkle our plant with this our land. You can use a good purchase of land, but not peat. Dear friends, please do not buy these peat cushions that sell. It is imperative that the soil will dry up or over-wet, there will not be enough nutrition, or, on the contrary, the nutrition will be fed so unevenly to the roots - now densely, now empty, - and this will not be good for them, these roots will die. So you can even alternate your land with the purchase - a handful of one soil, a handful of another. The soil should have a reaction somewhere around 5.5-6. This is a very good reaction. So we seal the soil, especially along the perimeter. We spill a clod of earth, we actively water the soil so that it clings to our roots. The roots will immediately feel the moisture, will begin their work. Let's add some more. But to rush the plant is not necessary, do not wake up ahead of time. If there is some kind of cold, rather bright room, then it will normally stay in it. No need to rush. Why? Because sometimes plants awaken early. It would seem that in May you can already plant it, it is already with leaves, but these leaves are not needed, because there may be frosts, and frosts will definitely destroy these leaves, and you will have to cover these plants. Therefore, do not awaken your plants ahead of time.

Replant the seedling in the seedling container

So we watered, temporarily planted. Again, the root system, growing in this pot, covering this new soil, feeding on good elements, which we can turn on after 1-2 watering, say, mineral fertilizers ... Every third watering we make mineral fertilizers. Be sure to use the annotation. A lot is not necessary. Better a little less than more. And be sure during this period before planting try to still treat the plant from diseases and pests. There are a lot of drugs now. From diseases, as a rule, these are copper-containing drugs, from pests you will find these drugs everywhere in the markets and shops, ask, it is good universal drugs, in order not to cause any infection in your garden.

Dear friends, I wish you all the best, great success and the acquisition of wonderful seedlings.

Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Nikolai Petrovich Fursov.

How to save seedlings in the spring before planting at home

In February-April, the active sale of seedlings begins. At fairs and nurseries dazzle boxes with future trees, shrubs, flowers. Eyes scatter, and there is a desire to buy a lot of things at once. You should not refuse, there are several ways to save seedlings before planting at home.

Inspection and preparation

Purchased seedlings before storage should be immediately marked (hang a tag with the name of the variety), inspect the buds and roots.

Delivered specimens in February-March, most likely still have dormant buds.

There may be those who have already gone to growth, but still small, no more than 2 cm. They are also suitable for "sealing".

If the buds are already actively growing, then before planting in a permanent place, the seedling is planted in a pot as a houseplant.

Broiled and broken off roots, long, dried or diseased shoots cut with garden shears. Shorten long roots. Process the slices with brilliant green or sprinkle with crushed coal.

Поврежденные грибком побеги нельзя оставлять на хранение, болезнь распространиться по всему саженцу и к моменту посадки сажать уже будет нечего.

Если молодые деревца пересылали по почте, то корневая система могла высохнуть. Перед закладкой на хранение оберните корешки во влажную хлопчатобумажную ткань и некоторое время подержите.

У привитых экземпляров, особенно саженцев роз, проверяют место прививки. Зачастую там нет защитной парафиновой пробки и чтобы уберечь чувствительное место, его обматывают полиэтиленом.

Как сохранить саженцы до посадки

It is difficult to save purchased seedlings at home, because besides the coolness, you also need to find a place. We offer several options:

  1. Prepare a clean thin plastic film, make holes in it for ventilation. Wrap the seedlings, wrap them in a newspaper to protect them from light, and secure with rubber bands or tapes. Place in dry plastic containers and store in a dark, cool place.
  2. The cuttings are usually small and for them you can make room for storage even in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf.
  3. Large saplings of trees and shrubs are placed in boxes with wet sand, while the roots do not wrap.
  4. To prevent the root system from drying out, place it in a plastic bag, make several holes in it so that the roots do not start to rot. Wrap the top of the newspaper and secure with ribbons or rubber. Put in a plastic container and put in a dark cool place, at home, the best option would be a balcony.

A cap from a newspaper or a covering material, dressed on a seedling, will protect from sunlight, thus the period of rest will be extended.

  1. Plant as a houseplant. Please note that in each pot there are drainage holes that we do not need. So that the water is not washed out, the bottom of the pot is covered with a cloth and only then the earth is poured.

Cuttings or seedlings before planting soak in potassium humate. How to prepare the solution indicated on the packaging. After planting, transfer the pot to a room where the temperature varies between 5-7 ° C. When the buds wake up and go to growth, move the pot to a bright, cool place.

Grape shoots can be saved before planting in other ways; for more details, see the topic “How to save grapes cuttings in winter”.

Storage conditions

Before planting, it is important to monitor the temperature and humidity level. Here a hygrometer will be a good helper. The temperature of the surrounding space should be within 0 ... + 2 ° С. It is under her that the plants fall into a state of rest and calmly survive the waiting time.

If the apartment on the first floor is a cellar, then it is better to move the seedlings until planting in the cellar for storage.

During the resting state, do not disclose the planting material, and do not touch it again, it is quite enough to check the condition of the kidneys very carefully once a month.

If the seedlings are purchased in the fall, and you need to save until spring, then in winter they are placed in the prikop. To protect against field rodents from above spread the branches of juniper or spruce.

© Author: KONSTANTIN FIRSTOV, Chief Agronomist

Buying plants is a matter of responsibility. Tell you about that. what you need to pay attention when choosing saplings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs

SPRING IS A TIME FOR BUYING PLANTS, LIKE FRUIT, SO AND DECORATIVE. IT IS IMPORTANT NOT ONLY TO CORRECTLY CHOOSING A TREE, A BUSH OR A FLOWER, BUT AND SAVE IT BEFORE LITTING TO THE GARDEN. THIS AND TALK

We will learn to choose, store and plant planting material in the spring.

Saplings grown in containers are the easiest to tolerate transplantation, their root system is well developed, not disturbed, such plants quickly take root and grow. It turns out that we simply cross the plants: when we take them out of the container and plant them in the garden, we preserve the integrity of the root system.

Saplings grown on the field, in the nursery, are often packaged in film, after adding root nutrient to the roots and forming a briquette, which is placed in a colorful packaging. The root system of such plants does not dry out; a seedling can be stored for several months in this state.

Fruit trees

BUY SEEDLINGS

Before buying a seedling carefully inspect it.

He must be healthy, the bark - not damaged. This is the first thing to pay attention to.

When buying during the frosty period, pay attention to the buds: they must be in a dormant state, and the seedling itself should not be overdried (which is well displayed on the bark, it becomes wrinkled, a slight crunch is heard when bent).

The shoots of a healthy seedling are elastic, easily bent, have the even color of the bark, buds are clearly visible.

Carefully look at the vaccination site:one hundred accretions of stock and scion must be clean, with a characteristic scar.

The tops of the seedlings can be pruned - it’s not scary, form a new leader during the growing season, and in a year or two you will not see the place of the cut.

Blooming buds on the seedling are permissibleIn this case, we can plant it immediately on a permanent place, and there is no need for storage.

SAVE BEFORE SITING

Do not add purchased seedlings to heat, this you only stimulate growth. Wrap them with non-woven covering material and store them in a cold room before landing (ideally in a cellar, in a cold basement, garage, or even on a balcony).

Check soil conditiondo not let it dry out, moisten it in a timely manner, but do not pour it either.

The seedling must be accompanied by a label indicating the variety, it must be attached to the seedling or to the container in which it was grown.

Before planting (or immediately after) protect the plant from sunburn,

You can use covering material or garden whitewash.

Fruit shrubs

All seedlings of fruit bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, blackberries), grown in containers, after the purchase can be stored outdoors in the shade or in a cold room until the landing on a permanent place.

Saplings with open root systempurchased in the nursery, immediately put in a bag, wrap the roots in a cloth or paper, moisten and keep in the shade. On the garden plot, if the place for planting is not yet ready, prikopite seedlings on the garden bed, sprinkle the roots with soil, and water well. It is not necessary to soak such seedlings, some are immersed in a bucket of water - this is a mistake! An attempt to soak off dried seedlings, of course, has the right to be, but in this case it is much more effective to cut the roots with sharp shears, cut the shoots down strongly, and then plant the plant in loose fertile soil and water it well.

Blackberry and raspberry seedlings should be selected with care. Do not forget that the shoots of these crops live for two years. In the first year, they gain vegetative mass, in the second year - they bloom and give berries, then they dry out. Therefore, seedlings should be sprouts of the first year, and they will give the first harvest only in the second year.

Perennials

Perennial flower crops are most often offered by vendors in the spring. The desire to purchase a new variety is great, and in February, colorful packaging appears. But it is still very early, and we do not understand what to do with them, how to save them until the time they are planted in the garden in April-May.

MODERN VARIETIES OF HYBRID Iris amaze the imagination with the shape and color of flowers (white, pink, crimson, blue, blue). On the garden plots, old varieties are often found, many consider them almost weedy, they are often deposited from the plot on the side of the garden roads, even discarded, they often take root, grow and bloom beautifully in the wastelands.

Modern varieties, in contrast to the “unkillable” old ones, are often capricious, which undoubtedly pays off with their beauty.

In the spring, delenki appear on the market for the desired rhizome of a single "spatula" of leaves (the so-called fan of iris leaves). Carefully inspect the delenka: rot, sores and damage should not be. Remember that this plant is better to dry (even if the leaves will be almost dried, they will transfer it more easily) than to keep it wet. Raw it rots easily.

The damaged iris rhizomes can be cured, the rotted parts can be cut with a sharp knife to healthy tissue, and the cut can be powdered with crushed charcoal or processed with ordinary green paint, causing it to be cut with a cotton swab. Store rhizomes in a dry, cold place, rarely slightly moisturizing to avoid drying out.

Daylilies and hosts have a well-developed root system, often with just one kidney. There are such delenki most often in packages with openings for ventilation. Choose healthy specimens with a well-shaped kidney. They should be put in peat pots and put into a cold room or cellar, occasionally slightly moisturized. And in the garden to a permanent place they can be planted with a pot.

Hosta. Before buying, be careful with the description of the variety. Pay attention to the size of the bush: the hosts are very different in size of the leaves - there are giants with the size of the bush up to a meter, and there are kids who have a bush no more than 20 cm. Consider this when planting in a permanent place.

Day-lily. This plant, on the contrary, grows well in the sun - practically does not bloom in a deep shade and does not grow well. Varietal variety of this perennial bribes a lot of colors, long flowering and unpretentiousness.

I want to draw attention to the lilac. There is an opinion that it is easy to propagate it - just dig up the seedlings and plant.

But disappointment comes with the flowering of the sprouted seedlings: instead of the desired variety, the most common lilac blooms. The point is this: varieties are often propagated by grafting, inoculating varietal on wild growth - which will bloom in you, if you separate the growth from it. Varietal lilacs have a weak root system, so it is advisable to propagate them by grafting, like apples, pears, plums.

Related link: Choosing quality seedlings - types of rootstock, planting and care

How to save seedlings before planting in open ground

Saplings: how to choose and save. (11.02.16)

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Very often such a problem occurs among summer residents - they have purchased or ordered by mail the necessary seedlings of ornamental or fruit crops, and planting is still early or once. What they usually do - cover the roots, store in a cool place until planting. Saplings start to grow, white thin roots develop - the most basic plant feeders when planted. Then brought to the site, these roots die, because. practically do not tolerate the slightest drying. As a result, the sapling is ill for a long time and does not soon begin to please the eye. We in our farm practice early planting in containers - for the benefit of them now available for sale - of any volume. Substrate - peat with fertile soil 1: 1. As a result, we obtain seedlings with a closed root system in containers that are not afraid of transplanting, even in summer. You can see for yourself in the photo - a rose at the end of May.

Hello, dear gardeners, gardeners and flower growers! Spring, you all acquire some plants, some of you have mapped out a road to one garden center, someone has mapped out a road to some nursery, but I will ask you very much, I just beg you, buy perennial plants, but in good firms, only in good stores, only in good nurseries! In no case do not allow yourself to buy plants somewhere on the roads from some random sellers. You can lose not only money, time, strength, but also nerves.

How to save saplings of trees and shrubs before planting in open ground

So, you have purchased an annual sapling, for example, an apple tree. It should look something like this. An annual seedling is literally a twig. If on the sapling suddenly some kind of side shoots were formed, then this is already a two-year sapling. Of course, in such packaging it is not entirely clear what is there, what roots, but, nevertheless, companies do not compromise themselves, so they usually make good packaging, as in this case you see. There is a substrate, the roots are clearly wetted, the substrate is wet — we will now see that it is well wrapped. See which substrate? Wet. So I touch a finger - my finger gets dirty. We have to open it, and before planting it is already in the garden - and it’s still too early to plant, we still cannot prepare pits, because the soil is frozen, - during this time we should help the plant at least a little. We will take it and put it in some container, in a pot. Do not keep it somewhere in the bath or in the kitchen on the floor, and take this plant to the balcony. On the balcony, it is great to continue to relax. See, the buds are still asleep. And at this time you should try to choose a plant with dormant buds, so that the buds are adherent, the tissues are elastic at the shoots. So they must bend. It means that the plant is pretty, pretty, big buds.

Check the condition of the purchased tree sapling trunk or shrub

Here is our root system. It often happens that the manufacturer twists the roots when they are too big. And we see with you that the tip of the spine is white. It means that the plant has already come to life, it means that it is about to start growing. And being in such a capacity in which it was, it is clear that this apple tree may simply die, despite the fact that you buy a good product.

Here we have a little freed the roots from the substrate, gave them freedom. For such a root system, such a two-liter capacity will suffice. Drainage can pour, and you can not pour, because if you pour drainage, it will be a bit crowded to the root system. Therefore, nothing terrible, a month and a half just this plant will stay with us in a new container with neat waterings, maybe even have to feed a little plant. We sprinkle the soil. But what kind of soil? You can take, for example, the soil is garden soil, or we have prepared universal soil in advance, where we have the soil from the garden, and river sand, and the turf is very good, and perlite, vermiculite. So the soil - just sit down and grow.

Check the condition of the roots of the purchased seedlings of a tree or shrub

So, we take, we pour a little bit of soil on the bottom - we should always do this - so that the bottom is not naked, and the roots do not immediately lay down on the bottom. Sprinkle our plant with this our land. You can use a good purchase of land, but not peat. Dear friends, please do not buy these peat cushions that sell. It is imperative that the soil will dry up or over-wet, there will not be enough nutrition, or, on the contrary, the nutrition will be fed so unevenly to the roots - now densely, now empty, - and this will not be good for them, these roots will die. So you can even alternate your land with the purchase - a handful of one soil, a handful of another. The soil should have a reaction somewhere around 5.5-6. This is a very good reaction. So we seal the soil, especially along the perimeter. We spill a clod of earth, we actively water the soil so that it clings to our roots. The roots will immediately feel the moisture, will begin their work. Let's add some more. But to rush the plant is not necessary, do not wake up ahead of time. If there is some kind of cold, rather bright room, then it will normally stay in it. No need to rush. Why? Because sometimes plants awaken early. It would seem that in May you can already plant it, it is already with leaves, but these leaves are not needed, because there may be frosts, and frosts will definitely destroy these leaves, and you will have to cover these plants. Therefore, do not awaken your plants ahead of time.

Replant the seedling in the seedling container

So we watered, temporarily planted. Again, the root system, growing in this pot, covering this new soil, feeding on good elements, which we can turn on after 1-2 watering, say, mineral fertilizers ... Every third watering we make mineral fertilizers. Be sure to use the annotation. A lot is not necessary. Better a little less than more. And be sure during this period before planting try to still treat the plant from diseases and pests. There are a lot of drugs now. From diseases, as a rule, these are copper-containing drugs, from pests you will find these drugs everywhere in the markets and shops, ask, it is good universal drugs, in order not to cause any infection in your garden.

Dear friends, I wish you all the best, great success and the acquisition of wonderful seedlings.

Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Nikolai Petrovich Fursov.

1 Methods for storing seedlings

Proper storage of seedlings is primarily to protect them from the influence of low temperatures and drying out. Rooting and damage to the roots by rodents are also dangerous.

Knowledgeable gardeners advise how to preserve seedlings before planting in different ways.

Winter storage rose bushes

1.1 Saving in prikop

On the site choose elevated, sunny, dry, protected from wind and drafts place. Dig a trench with a depth and width of 50-60 cm (for trees) or 25-30 cm (for shrubs). The length is measured depending on the number of seedlings, allocating for each 20cm, and the same for the distance between plants. Нельзя копать траншею там, где наблюдается близкое залегание грунтовых вод, иначе есть риск промерзания и гниения корней.

Северный склон траншеи делают вертикальным, а южный – под наклоном. Копать нужно с запада на восток. На дно канавы кладут мох, хвою или опилки слоем примерно 10 см, чем обеспечивается утепление.

Перед тем, как поместить молодые саженцы в траншею, их надо подготовить к зиме. Опустив для этого корни в чистую, без примесей, воду на время от 5 часов до суток, зависимо от увлажнения. After that, trim the roots, removing the injured areas.

Planting material is laid into the prepared ditch, rooted to the north, sprinkling them with loose soil for 20 cm. Water is plentiful and watered down with earth. Remove the seedlings in the spring, after the soil thaws.

Autumn digging seedlings

1.2 Storage in the cellar

How to store seedlings if the ground is already frozen and it is impossible to make a prikop? Another way is to store them in a cold place in plastic bags, preventing the plant from awakening and drying up the roots.

Saplings with moistened roots should be placed in a bag, which is filled with sawdust, peat or sand, leaving no airy layers. Package tie and make a few holes. After that, carry in the cold. It could be a basement, cellar, or refrigerator, for small plants. The temperature should be stable, within 0 - +5 ° C. In such conditions, rest in the winter can not worry.
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1.3 Under the snow cover

Winter and frost are detrimental to seedlings, but not snow. Under the snowy veil, plants will sleep comfortably until spring heat. It is only important that there be a lot of snow, a layer of not less than 15 cm. For such wintering, pack the roots in polyethylene and prikopat in the shade in a snowdrift, the height of which should be 15-20 cm. temperatures.
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2 Storage of seedlings of different cultures

Despite the fact that there are common ways to preserve seedlings in winter, different cultures assume their own characteristics.
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Whimsical flowers can not be planted to heat, you need to take care how to cover the bushes and save them until spring.

  1. Prikop with snowdrift. Suitable for areas where snow lays all winter. Dig a hole to the ground, lay roses with packed roots, cover them with earth, and place insulation material on top - spunbond or lutrasil. In this position, the flowers will wake up simultaneously with other plants.
  2. In a refrigerator. Wrap the seedlings in a newspaper and polyethylene, put it down in the refrigerator. It is important to know that excessively moistened roots can rot, and because of dry roots the plant will die.
  3. If the plant has managed to wake up and dissolve the leaves, it is not the best condition for wintering, but in this case you can save the plant, showing enough care. Roses to plant in a large capacity, for the normal development of the roots. Completely pack in polyethylene and put in a dark cool room with a temperature of 10-15 ° C. With this, plant growth slows down. And the root system will be strengthened. Do not forget to follow the soil moisture.

2.2 Grapes

This plant is accustomed to a warm climate and is afraid of frost. Therefore, grapes saplings need special care and specific care.

  1. If the roots of seedlings are not dry, they are immediately immersed in moistened sand. When dry the roots of grapes soak for a day. After the roots to process a solution of potassium permanganate, which protects seedlings from disease. Bury the plant in the sand, leaving the root neck on the surface. Attention should be paid to the temperature and humidity in the room. Not higher than +5 ° C should be wet, but not too much so that the vine does not rot.
  2. Grape saplings can also spend the winter in a deep hole, 1 meter deep. To do this, shoots prikopat and cover the top with peat or sawdust. In the spring, this pit is useful for planting vines.


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2.3 Fruit trees

For such crops storage in the cellar is best suited. With the seedlings remove all the leaves and placed in a box or box filled with wet soil. If the roots have dried after transporting the plants, they should be soaked before planting in cool water for several hours before planting. In winter, do not allow drying and over-wetting of the soil.
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2.4 Coniferous plants

For storage of coniferous plants, there are two ways.

  1. Wintering in the cellar for such plants is not suitable. It is best to prikopat them in the garden, in the shade, right in the containers. The soil must be wet. Ground over the root system should be insulated with peat, and lutrasil (covering nonwoven material) to tie the plant. Cover the peat from getting wet film.
  2. If the ground is frozen and can not prikopat seedlings, then store them in the garage. Plants put in a box or box, filled with wet sawdust or peat. Krona cover is not necessary. Capacity with seedlings to warm felt or old clothes.

2.6 Bulbous

Onion plants are stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf or in the vegetable compartment. Seedlings placed in a moist sphagnum - peat moss, then in the paper and put in storage. Every week, check the moisture in the package and the condition of the bulbs.

Optimal storage conditions are + 4 ° C and dark. Another option is to put the bulbs in a cardboard box with sawdust and send for the winter in a dark cool place. Alternatively, wet storage is suitable, in which you deepen the bulbs in a plastic tray with wet sawdust or peat. Store in identical conditions.

With the arrival of spring heat, it is important not to forget that the plant must have time to wake up before planting in open ground. After a stay in a dark place, a bright light is contraindicated to seedlings. You must first set them up in a shady place and accustom them to sunlight during the week.

Often the best varieties of plants can be purchased only in late autumn, when it is too late to plant them. However, there are many ways to protect seedlings from adverse conditions, how to keep them healthy until spring. Gardener only chooses, based on their own capabilities which one is suitable for a particular culture. In all weather conditions, you can keep the garden healthy.

Adding an article to a new collection

September is the best time to buy seedlings. But sometimes you can not plant the plants in the fall and you have to postpone the procedure until spring. There is nothing terrible in this, because the seedlings will wait for plantings if you send them correctly for the winter.

The ideal time for planting seedlings is from mid-September to mid-October. The winter-hardy varieties of apple trees, pears, conifers, currants, raspberries, gooseberries planted during this period will successfully take root, and next year they will grow faster than the crops planted in spring.

But bad weather, poor winter hardiness of the selected variety and just the lack of time sometimes force summer residents to miss the autumn planting. In such a situation, it is important to slow down the growth of the seedling, bring it to rest in order to save the plant's strength until the new summer season. Let's see how to do this correctly for different cultures.

How to keep seedlings of winter-hardy fruit and berry crops until spring

For saplings of frost-resistant plants, it is best to make a prikop on the site - a temporary storage place in open ground, where the planting material will not be able to firmly root, but it will not die before planting on a permanent plot.

Prepare prikop need in advance. Choose a dry place without stagnant water. If there is no suitable area, use empty beds from potato, cucumber or other vegetables. You can make a prikop and on the site of the future landing pit.

The place is chosen - you can start digging a trench. Its parameters are on average:

  • depth - 50-70 cm,
  • width - depends on the size of the seedling, in general, one needs about 15-20 cm,
  • length - depends on the number of seedlings.

Orientation prikopa - from east to west. The northern edge should be steep, and the southern - gently sloping. During work, throw away the soil to the north side, then it will be easier to drop the roots of seedlings.

Make a small area in the prikop where there will be no seedlings so that it would be convenient to check in the spring how much the ground has thawed, without the risk of damaging the plants themselves. Photo source: youtu.be

How to put seedlings in prikop

It remains to prikopat seedlings for the winter. Before the procedure, remove all leaves from the branches, if any, and put the plants in clean water for 3-5 hours. You can also water the seedlings with moisture in this way: tie them into a bundle and put them in a barrel. To make the bundle completely submerged in water, tie a stone or a piece of brick to it.

During this time, prepare the ground for prikop, which remained on the north side of the trench. If it is not too fertile, add peat and sand to it.

The lighter the soil, the easier it will be to dig up the plants in the spring without damaging the root system.

Then remove the bundle of seedlings from the water and tidy up their roots, removing the broken parts and growths. If the seedling has many branches, tie them a little. Then place the plants in a trench as shown in the diagram below: roots to the steep edge, to the north, and tops to the gentle, to the south. This will protect the seedlings from the cold wind. Spread the roots gently, sprinkle with sand or peat so that there are no voids, and pour it to a height of about 20 cm. Water the plants with clean water.

But that is not all! You can finish the work only with the onset of autumn frosts. After their arrival, completely fill the prikop primer and make a small mound.

It remains to protect the seedlings from rodents. You can use purchased baits or simply shift the plants with branches of thorny shrubs, such as barberry or wild rose. During the period of hard frost, sprinkle the above-ground part of the seedlings with earth, snow, or cover it with spruce branches.

Do not cover the above-ground parts of seedlings with a film or roofing felt. They can wake up warmly ahead of time, and nutrients will begin to pass from the roots to the kidneys, reducing the immunity of plants.

Digging plants in the spring is better not earlier than April. But it is worth uncovering as soon as possible to prevent the decay of the bark.

Do not want to mess with the creation of Prikop? There is an easier way out: put the seedlings in buckets or boxes, cover them with loose, moist soil and place them in a basement or cellar. It is possible and on the balcony, but in this case, consider protection from the sun. Leaves must be removed so that the plant does not lose moisture.

How to keep seedlings of heat-loving crops until spring

Apricots, cherries, blackberries and some other heat-loving plants are planted only in the spring, and they will not like wintering in the forest. For them, the best place - the cellar or basement. Store seedlings to be dug in in slightly damp sand: singly or in one large container. Storage temperature should be between 0-5 ° C.

How to save seedlings of conifers before spring

Coniferous plants can be saved in two ways: in the prikop in the garden or in the cellar. The first option is preferable, because wintering in the cellar is not always successful. Make a trench, as we told above, and place the seedlings in it, you can directly in the containers, if the root system is closed. Put peat on top of the prikop and cover the mound with a film, and the green part of the plants - with any nonwoven material.

In case the soil is already frozen and it is difficult to dig a trench, arrange wintering in the coniferous cellar, basement or garage. Put each seedling in a box and sprinkle with peat. To protect the roots, cover the drawers with something warm: old blankets, unwanted clothes, etc. It is not necessary to cover the aboveground part.

Drying of the soil is dangerous for conifers, so moisten the soil regularly until spring arrives.

How to keep grapes saplings until spring

If you do not have time to plant grapes in the fall, choose a method of storing seedlings until spring.

In a refrigerator. Wrap the vine saplings in a damp, clean cloth and place them in the perforated bag. Since moisture in the refrigerator evaporates quickly, moisten plants regularly. The optimum storage temperature is 0-4 ° C. Depending on this, select the appropriate shelf (usually use the lower or middle).

In the basement or cellar. Place the grapes in peat, sand or coconut containers. Ensure that the soil does not dry out. If there was too much moisture and mold appeared, spray the plants with a solution of potassium permanganate.

If you leave the grape saplings to winter in a warm room, they will quickly consume the nutrients and will take root worse.

How to save rose seedlings until spring

Saplings of roses can be stored in different ways. Most Popular:

  • in the basement or cellar - put the seedlings in a bucket, box or container and sprinkle the roots with peat or sand,
  • in the refrigerator - wrap the seedlings in a newspaper or film,
  • in a pit under the snow - lay the plants right in the package, sprinkle with soil and cover with spunbond.

Read more about these methods in the article.

For seedlings of roses with an open root system, you can also make a prikop. Dig a sloping trench to a depth of 50 cm, cover it with spruce branches and lay the plants. Pre-cut the roots to about 30 cm. The grafting site should be not less than 10 cm deep. Then sand the seedlings, pour and cover with roofing paper and film.

Some rose growers completely fill up the saplings of roses for the winter with loose soil.

We considered the most famous ways to preserve seedlings in the winter. Now you do not have to postpone the purchase until the spring or give the plant to the neighbor. And if you are still aimed at an autumn planting, read the related articles:

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