General information

Why leaves turn yellow, how to protect the lily from diseases and pests


Gray Rot Lily

Lily and bulb, affected by Fusarium

Gray Lily Rot, Rot Treatment

Externally, the disease is manifested in leaf spot. Round or oval, brown, reddish or orange spots appear on the lower part of the stem, then rise higher. In wet weather, they are covered with a gray bloom of mold. Gradually, the spots grow larger, coalesce and cover the entire sheet. As a result, he turns brown and dies. Overwintering pathogen on last year’s leaves and stems.

Treatment. The affected parts of the plant must be removed and sprayed with a solution of 1% Bordeaux liquid or foundationol (20–30 g per 10 l of water). And at the end of the season, the stems must be cut to the ground and removed from the site or burned. To further protect the lilies from this disease, in the spring (in the middle of May, when the leaves are fully opened), treat the lilies with a solution of copper oxychloride (50 g per 10 l of water). The liquid will adhere better to the leaves if you add a little shampoo or 40 g of soap to it.

Council Not all lilies are equally affected by gray mold. If this disease started in your flower garden, try to grow less susceptible Oriental, OT or LA hybrids. But the unpretentious Asian hybrids that grow well in the middle lane, unfortunately, often suffer from gray mold.

Lily Fusarium, lily treatment

Treatment. In order not to infect lilies with Fusarium, land only with healthy bulbs. If you notice any suspicious stains on the scales, separate them and lower the bulbs for 10 minutes into a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

When growing lilies rememberthat the development and spread of the disease is promoted by soil moisture (especially excessive), an acidic reaction of the environment (pH below 6.5), the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers above the norm, the use of mullein solution for feeding.

Lily mosaic, lily treatment

Treatment. Unfortunately, while scientists could not find effective ways to treat this disease. Therefore, plants infected with a mosaic should be excavated and destroyed. Carriers of the virus are aphids, thrips, mites and other sucking insects. If you lead an irreconcilable struggle with them, you can reduce the risk of infection to a minimum. In addition, the disease is transmitted with the juice of the diseased plant when cutting flowers, shoots, so the knife or pruner must be constantly disinfected.

Fighting a red lily bug on lilies

Means of struggle. In the spring, when the beetle only appears on the lilies, it must be collected manually and destroyed. If it is possible to inspect the landing frequently and carefully, then in a few weeks you can get rid of the pest. But when time is missed and the larvae appear, it will be necessary to CARRY OUT the chemical treatments. It is necessary to use those drugs that help in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. For spraying in 10 liters of water, 1-2 g of aktar can be diluted, or 1 ml of confectioner, or 2 ml of sonnet.

Mice on lilies, means of struggle

Means of struggle. Lily bulbs must be protected from rodents, especially in the off-season, when owners rarely appear in the garden. Take small boxes, make holes on the side of them for the passage of mice, lay the poisoned bait. In this capacity, you can use the drug storm, mixing 1 briquette with 1 kg of flour or cereal. Cover the box with a lid so that birds or pets do not accidentally poison themselves. Arrange a few such boxes on the lily plantations, and it is advisable to change the bait to fresh once a month.

Features flowering lilies

Lily is a perennial plant, but in order for it to bloom every year, you need to replant it every three years. Did you know?Some lily hybrids are replanted every 10 years. Asian varieties, on the contrary, need to replant each year.

Transplant flowers in autumn or spring. But the varieties of lilies flowering time is different, so you should focus on them. In the fall, lily bulbs are at rest, and therefore it will be convenient to replant them. If the flowers are early, then it is better to do it in early autumn. The earth will still be warm, and it will be easier for lilies to adapt. Transplanting in the fall is much easier than in the spring.

Never replant lilies after September. Bulbs can not settle down and disappear.

It is very important to transplant the lilies until the cold, then the bulb will calmly take root, and in the summer the plant will delight you with its flowering. Preparation for spring transplantation is as follows:

  • dig up the bulbs in the fall and place in a bag with ventilation,
  • sprinkle the bulbs with wet filings,
  • Store a bag of onion in the refrigerator.

In late March or early April, it will be necessary to plant the bulbs in the ground. Which way of transplanting is more convenient for you, choose for yourself, but many gardeners note that lilies transplanted in spring develop better than those transplanted in autumn. If you notice that the lily does not bloom, then it is time to transplant it. If you do this, adhering to all the rules, the next year your lily will delight you with flowers.

Is the care right?

Lily care is a simple matter. It is important to remember to water the flowers and loosen the land on the site. Be sure to prepare the soil for transplanting. In the autumn on the site to make humus with straw, covering the landing site. In the spring before planting the bulbs to make mineral fertilizers. To loosen the land where the lilies are planted should be very careful not to damage their bulbs.

If you notice that the earth has become very dense, sprinkle it with coarse sand. This will help loosen it. Do not forget to cut the lilies in time and correctly, remove faded flowers and seed boxes. Shrunken leaves and stems must be carefully cut to prevent pests or viruses from entering them. For bouquets of lilies, cut diagonally so that the remaining stem covers the leaves. With the onset of cold weather, cut the stalks to ground level.

How to deal with the main pests of lilies

Many growers are faced with the cultivation of lilies with such a problem as pests. Great damage is caused by the larvae of the pearl beetles, potato scoops, bulbous crystal beetles, etc. For pest control using different methods, but the most popular are:soaking bulbs before planting in insecticides or potassium permanganate, prevention during flowering, timely elimination of weeds, dried flowers and leaves.

Lily fly

The lily fly is clearly visible on the lily due to its red color. She lays eggs from April to September. The fly and its larvae feed on the leaves, flowers and seed boxes of lilies, which cause great damage to the plant. Synthetic pyrethroids (Fastek, Karate, Decis, Antizhuk) are used to fight the lily fly. Processing will need to be repeated in two weeks.

Potato scoop

Very dangerous for lilies potato scoop. The caterpillar is red in color, and its eggs are on wild weeds and cereals. It can move on lilies from weeds that grow nearby. The caterpillar eats young shoots from the inside, the flower breaks off and fades. You can fight it by timely weed control.

Onion mite

The tick, the size of which is only 1 mm, causes irreparable harm to lily bulbs. He eats the bulb scales, causing it to rot. The lily leaves turn yellow and die, it stops growing. Gradually, the mite spreads to other bulbs through the soil, and thus all onion plants are infected. You can fight the pest by digging out and destroying the infected bulbs. For prophylaxis, before planting, the bulbs should be held in a solution of potassium permanganate or “Karbofos”, sprinkled with chalk.

Important!If your garden plot was infected with a mite, do not grow bulb plants for 3-4 years until it disappears completely.

Aphid and spider mite

Aphid is a very small, but dangerous pest. Aphids on lilies greatly weakens the plant, eating it and infecting with viral infections. You can get rid of it by spraying the lily with insecticides. Spider mites drink the juice from the plants, from which the leaves begin to turn yellow, become covered with spiderweb and dry. Lily can become infected with mite from fruit trees or berry bushes that grow nearby. For the prevention and control of pests, it is necessary to spray not only lilies, but also a number of growing bushes and trees.

The most dangerous enemy of lilies is the beetle beetle. But the most dangerous of its larvae. They are very voracious. The beetle and its larvae eat the leaves of lilies and carry various viruses. The pike beetle is resistant to various chemicals, so it is best to destroy it manually. Be careful: if a beetle is dropped, it will pretend to be dead, turning over on its back, and since its belly is black, it is difficult to find it on the ground.

Disease treatment

Lily has a disease, and their treatment depends on timely prevention. Every gardener should know what the lilies and the existing methods of prevention of these diseases are ill with. Before planting bulbs need to carefully inspect for defeat. Be sure to carry out bactericidal treatment at the slightest suspicion of rot. Etch the soil before planting.

How to cure fusarium

Fusarium affects lily roots. If you notice that the tops of the leaves have turned yellow, the base of the stem is rotting, and the plant has begun to dry up - this is fusarium. To combat it should be used lime-fluff or ash. Spray the plants with Topsin-M or Fundazole. If the plants are completely affected, they must be dug up and destroyed.

Bacterial rot

If you notice rust spots on lilies of various sizes, this is most likely bacterial rot. If you do not deal with this disease, the leaves will gradually begin to die off, the buds will fall off, and the lily will dry. To combat rot, use phosphate or potash fertilizers, apply wood ash, process the plant with Bordeaux mixture, Fundazole or Benomil.

Did you know? Many diseases and pests can be transmitted from nearby plants or weeds. For prevention it is worth spraying not only lilies, but also the space around them.

Root rot

Root rot strikes lily bulbs. They are covered with brown spots, the plant begins to grow slowly, and the buds fall. Gradually the stalk of the lily dries. To combat the disease, carefully select planting material, disinfect the soil with calloid sulfur and treat the bulbs before planting. Damaged plants should be removed and destroyed.


When peniciplosis in lily peduncles rot, flowers and bulbs are covered with green bloom. This is a very dangerous and common disease of all bulbous. For the prevention of the disease, it is worthwhile to spray the plants and pickle the bulbs with fungicides. The infected plants must be removed from the site and destroyed so that the disease does not spread to healthy lilies.

Viral diseases

It is more difficult to fight viral diseases than fungal ones. They are difficult to treat and diagnose. Viral diseases are carried by insects and with garden tools. The most common are:

  • variegation virus - transmitted from tulips. Differs in unusual spotted color of flowers. It can carry aphid
  • electrical outlet - growth retardation of flower shoots, deformed stem, curves and yellowed leaves. The main carrier is aphid
  • mosaic - spots and stripes on the leaves.

A mosaic lily can bloom and bear seeds. But they will already be infected with a virus. Over time, the lily will die, and the planted seeds will again spread the virus, which can be transferred to other plants by aphids.

In order to avoid infection by viruses of all plants, first of all, one should pay attention to their vectors and take up the fight against insect pests.

Disease prevention

For the prevention of all diseases of lilies, inspect the plants for changing the color of leaves, stems and flowers. If you notice that the lily has changed its appearance (spots appear on the flowers, bloom on the lily leaves, the stems become crooked, the plant is covered with cobwebs, the lily does not bloom, etc.), immediately remove this plant. Be sure to disinfect your inventory after working with infected plants. Do pest-borne disease.

Important!In time carried out disease prevention will help you protect the lily from disease. Carefully inspect planting material for damage.

Thus, in order to lily pleased you with beautiful flowers every year, did not suffer from diseases and pests, you should take care of it. Use high-quality fertilizers and chemicals, do not forget about the transplant of lilies and be sure to monitor the condition of the flowers. If you carry out prevention of diseases and care for flowers in time, they will thank you, decorating the site with healthy flowers.

Adding an article to a new collection

Did your favorite plants turn yellowish brown or completely yellow? Do not panic! We will tell why the leaves of the garden lily turn yellow and how to help the flower deal with this problem.

Immediately make a reservation: all the diseases that lead to yellowing of the leaves - this is a consequence of improper care of plants. Therefore, the first step is to provide the flower with suitable habitat conditions. There will also be useful preventive measures in the fight against diseases and pests of lilies.

Reason 1. Dry air and lack of moisture.

Lily hails from the humid tropics, so in the midland climate during a drought in the summer it can be "stuffy", especially when it is thickened. Then the leaves of the lily turn yellow and dry. To avoid this, plant the plants in a light shade and at a sufficient distance from each other.

And also follow the mode of irrigation. Do not let the soil dry out much under the lilies. In this case, note that too wetting can cause yellowing of lily leaves, as it will lead to root rot of the plant.

Iron deficiency

As a result, the formation of chlorophyll, which is important for photosynthesis, is disrupted in lily leaves. This is especially pronounced on young leaves: every day they become more yellow, while the veins remain green.

In this case, garden lily need to feed. To do this, dissolve 2 tsp in 3 l of distilled water. citric acid and add 8 g of iron sulphate. The resulting solution is sprayed on the leaves and watered the soil around the plant.

Deficiency or excess nitrogen

With a shortage of nitrogen lily pales, turns yellow and grows weakly. Proper fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers will help to cope with this problem. But do not overdo it!
When there is an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, brown spots appear on the leaves of lilies; over time, the leaf plates turn yellow - the plant dies off. In this case, the bulb is also covered with spots. Such "overfed" plants, as a rule, cannot be saved. Therefore, lilies better to root out.

Phitium, or blue mold

This disease causes rotting of the roots of the bulb. They are covered with brown spots, while the tops of the leaves turn yellow, the stem of the lily dries and fades.

All affected parts of the plant are immediately removed. Before planting the lilies, the soil is disinfected with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, and the bulbs are soaked for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole.

This disease kills the bulb itself (at first it turns brown, and then falls apart), so it is almost impossible to save the plant. In addition, at the initial stage, the disease is visible only on the bulb, which is located underground. After some time, the shoots of the plants turn yellow. And in the conditions of heat and high humidity the yellow leaves of the lily begin to dry out.

To prevent illness, before planting the bulbs, soak in a solution of Fundazole and pickle the soil.

Gray Rot or Botrytis

Dark yellow spots appear on the leaves of lilies affected by this fungus. Watery specks can be seen on the flowers. It is unlikely that the plant will be completely cured, because in the heat and at high humidity the fungus is activated again.

It is necessary to cut and destroy all damaged leaves and stems, and in September to dig out the bulbs, process Maxim with a fungicide and transplant to a new place. In spring, as a preventive measure, it is necessary to water the plants with a solution of Fitosporin and repeat this procedure every time wet weather is established outside.

When the nematode bulbs are damaged, the lily leaves become more rounded, change their color to yellow-brown and fall off over time. These dangerous pests live between bulbous scales, but under favorable conditions, go into the ground.

Regular soil treatment, decontamination of bulbs in hot water (50-52 ° C) for 10 minutes, timely weed removal and prophylactic insecticide spraying will help save the lilies from the invasion of nematodes.

To combat nematodes, you can use drugs such as Pharmaiod, Nematophagin, Nemaros, Rogor, Dimethoat, Bi-58.

Чтобы не пришлось спасать свои любимые растения, ухаживайте за ними правильно и раз в месяц во время периода вегетации подкармливайте лилии специальным удобрением для луковичных растений.

Болезни лилий и их лечение с фото

Благоухающая лилия всегда являлась главным украшением цветочных композиций. They also love it for the simple way of planting and unpretentiousness to care, however, they often forget that only following the rules of agrotechnology ensures proper healthy flowering.

In addition, a disease resistance culture depends on the geographical origin of the plant. For example, people from the tropics tolerate the winter and may even die due to insufficient air humidity. Therefore, plants planted in unsuitable climatic conditions, grow weakened, more often and longer ill and die faster.

Most often lilies are susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. So, in thickened plantings or with long-term cultivation in one place, there is a risk of developing fungal diseases, among which they distinguish (Figure 1):

  • Gray gil
  • Fusarium,
  • Rust,
  • Sclerotic rot,
  • Root and bacterial rot.

Viral diseases are transmitted by insect pests or through infected garden tools. The most common among them are:

  • Variegation virus,
  • Rosette Disease,
  • Mosaic.
Figure 1. The main symptoms of disease in flowers

Let's take a closer look at lily diseases, their symptoms and treatment methods with photos.

To start the correct fight against diseases, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristic symptoms of each pathology in the photo and description.

It appears as brown spots that grow rapidly on the lower leaves, which soon form large patches of mucous tissue covered with bloom (Figure 2). The affected stems die very quickly, so it is recommended to carry out preventive measures aimed at preventing the development of this disease.

Ways of dealing with gray mold such:

  1. Preliminary disinfection of the bulbs before planting in a foundation solution,
  2. Change the place of planting bulbs every 4-5 years,
  3. Compliance with the sparseness of landings,
  4. The implementation of watering in the morning in the root way,
  5. Construction of a protective canopy over the flowerbed in case of a rainy period,
  6. Preventive spraying of seedlings in early spring with a solution of copper sulphate (0.5%), Bordeaux mixture (1%) or chlorine dioxide (0.3%).
Figure 2. Gray Rot Symptoms

When a disease is detected, the solutions are applied in turn with an interval of 10 days, the affected parts of the plants are destroyed.

Appears on the bulbs with mechanical damage. The disease is most pronounced during storage. Symptoms are spots of yellow-brown color appearing in the places of attachment of scales (Figure 3). Subsequently, these spots turn into soft rotten areas, and the bulb breaks up.

Note: The most active spread of the disease gets in hot weather with a high level of humidity. Spores of the fungus causing fusarium can persist in the soil for about 3 years.

The fight against the fungus Fusarium consists in the release of the bulbs from the affected scales with a mild disease and in the destruction of the bulbs with a strong defeat.

Figure 3. Signs of Fusarium

In addition, the soil is disinfected for 2-3 weeks before planting with a solution of 40% formalin (250 ml of substance on a bucket of water) and spraying the soil with foundationol (0.1%), euparen (0.2%), bavistin (0.05% ) in early spring.

Spores of the fungus that causes rust can hibernate both in the stems and leaves, and in the bulbs. Rust, as a disease, is manifested by the appearance of colorless spots of small size on the leaves, later they turn yellow, and the leaves and stems dry out (Figure 4). The dark growths that remain on them contain a large number of fungal spores, which in the spring can affect other plants.

Figure 4. Rust Manifestations

Therefore, for prophylactic purposes, it is recommended to pre-sowing the bulbs and frequent fertilizing with the introduction of potash-phosphorus fertilizers. In addition, in the early spring, prophylactic spraying of seedlings with Bordeaux mixture or copper chlorine is carried out. When detecting the first signs of the disease, ditan, polycarbacin, zineb are used. If the damage is still insignificant, then its infected parts are removed and destroyed. In the case of a strong defeat, the entire plant together with the bulb is removed and destroyed.

The first sign is called uneven shoots in the spring. The bulbs lagging behind in growth show a thick white deposit at the neck of the bulb or on its bottom. The developing disease leads to the death of the roots and leaves (Figure 5).

Note: Most often, sclero-social rot develops when the air temperature is below +13 degrees in conditions of high humidity. Therefore, with a rise in temperature and a decrease in humidity, the disease stops its spread. Figure 5. Symptoms of Sclerocene Rot

Prevention of sclerosal rot is similar to how to combat fusarium and botris. Sick plants are removed along with a lump of soil, and the foci of infection are treated with wood ash or bleach. In addition to lilies, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli are also susceptible to this fungal disease, therefore it is not recommended to plant lilies after these ornamental bulbous ones.

In accordance with its name, the disease affects exactly the roots of the plant, as a result of which it begins to lag behind in growth, and then loses the buds. A signal of the onset of the disease is the yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which soon passes over the entire stem and causes it to dry out (Figure 6).

To prevent root rot diseases of plants, the following set of protective measures should be taken.:

  1. Carefully select planting material
  2. Pickle the bulbs before planting,
  3. Disinfect the soil with colloidal sulfur solution (0.4%).
Figure 6. Signs of root rot

All affected plants must be removed from the flower bed and destroyed to prevent the spread of rot to other cultures.

It leads to decay and abscission of leaves and peduncles. The bulbs of the plant are also affected by rotting depressed spots.

The following procedures are taken to combat this disease.:

  1. Regular inspection of the bulbs during storage for the purpose of timely detection and further destruction of the infected planting material.
  2. Presowing treatment of the soil and the bulbs themselves.
  3. Spraying of seedlings with fungicide in early spring, and when bacterial rot is detected, such sprays are repeated every decade.

If fungal diseases can be prevented by various preventive measures, then this cannot be said about viral infections. In addition, this type of infection is not only impossible to prevent, but also very difficult to diagnose and treat. Viral infections are transmitted by insect pests and plant sap through untreated equipment. Such diseases manifest themselves in different ways, and the fight against them consists in the destruction of affected plants. Such viral infections as variegation, rosette and mosaic are most common.

The main symptoms of viral diseases are (Figure 7):

  • Variegation virus causes unusual for lilies, spotty color of the flower. This disease can tolerate aphid, it is transmitted through garden tools.
  • Rosette Disease provokes the action of a whole complex of viruses. It is manifested by stunted growth of peduncles, stem deformation, and irregularly shaped leaves. The vector of this disease is aphid.
  • Mosaic - A viral disease that has symptoms similar to Bots. In this case, the leaves are covered with oblong spots of pale gray color. Viral mosaic is transmitted by aphids and through a garden tool.
Figure 7. Viral diseases: 1 - variegation, 2 - rosette, 3 - mosaic

Methods of combating viral diseases are preventive examinations of bulbs laid down for storage and removal of specimens with an unusual change in the color of the aerial parts. Since the mosaic can be transmitted with the juice of plants through the inventory, you should use when cutting flowers a set of blades that are disinfected after use. It is also necessary to combat aphids by spraying the lilies with karbofos or ragor.

Asiatic lilies: diseases

Lilies belonging to Asian hybrids are the most unpretentious, and therefore the most common. They can be grown almost all over the world, even in Alaska.

In cold climates, flower stalks are cut off at ground level so that they do not rise above the snow cover. However, Asiatic lilies are more susceptible to certain fungal and viral diseases.

The fungal disease known as botris affects flowers in cold weather with a high level of humidity. Therefore, when choosing a site for planting, choose a place that is well ventilated.

Bulb bottom rot is also caused by a fungus and is called fusarium. The cause of its occurrence is the stagnation of water as a result of poor drainage or lack of it, the use of fresh manure as top dressing, the drying of earthen coma.

Often enough, lilies are infected with the variegation virus, which is transmitted to them from tulips that had previously grown on the site. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant lily bulbs after other bulbs. Insect pests can also cause viral diseases. Regular control of them will protect your plants from viruses. Remember that well-kept plants are much more resistant to various diseases.

How to recognize the onset of the disease in order to provide the plant with necessary assistance in a timely manner? For this, you should know the symptoms of the disease. For example, when a gray rot lesion occurs, signs of the disease appear on the leaves as brown spots that merge into whole foci, passing to the buds (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Disease manifestations in Asiatic lilies

It is important to know that viral diseases are much more dangerous than fungal, because they often flow hidden, and when the symptoms become visible, it can be impossible to save the plant. So, for example, flows the virus of variegation. Therefore, noticing the uncharacteristic features of the plant and the color of the flower, the shape of the stem, you should immediately get rid of it, so as not to infect the whole flower garden.

The best way to combat the diseases of the Asiatic lily is prevention. So, in order to prevent the disease by botris, it is recommended to shed the seedlings with a solution of copper sulphate, ammonia and soda ash.

Note: To prepare a solution of 1 tbsp. copper sulfate is dissolved in 5 liters of hot water, and the same amount of ammonia and soda diluted in 5 liters of cold water. Then the solution of copper sulphate is poured into a solution of ammonia and soda.

If preventive measures have not been taken, then for the treatment of gray rot, spraying of plants with Bordeaux liquid is carried out, and in case of a strong lesion - with basezol or phytosporin every 2 weeks. In the case of fusarium disease, it is necessary to dig out the bulbs, rinse them well and keep in the foundationol solution for 30 minutes.

Remember that it is impossible to cure viral diseases, therefore, when viral lesions are detected, your main task is to remove and destroy the infected plant as soon as possible in order to save the entire flower garden.

Lily pests and control

Culture bulbs contain a large amount of nutrients, therefore they are a delicacy not only for rodents, but also for various insect pests.

They not only weaken plants by eating leaves and bulbs, but also are carriers of dangerous viral diseases. Consider some types of pests lilies x and methods of combating them.

Lily pest control: red beetle

The red lilia beetle is similar in appearance to a firefighter, and in terms of fecundity and gluttony it is similar to a Colorado beetle. The adult insect and its larvae eat the leaves, flowers, and bulbs of the plant (Figure 9). Adult individuals appear on flowers as early as April, and if no protective measures are taken, then it will be extremely difficult to cope with the larvae that soon hatch.

Figure 9. Larvae and adults of the red beetle

Therefore, as soon as pests of red bugs appeared on plants, it is necessary to immediately start fighting them. It is best to manually collect and destroy insects. If time has been lost, it is necessary to spray the plants with any insecticide that is used to combat the Colorado potato beetle, for example, actor, confidor, decis.

Onion leaf beetle

Orange oval beetles with two dozens of dots on elytra are onion leaf beetles. Adult individuals and their pupae hibernate in the soil and surface at the end of April. Onion leaf beetles damage mainly lilies, eating leaves from the edges or gnawing holes in them. The larva of the onion leaf beetle is capable of skeletonizing the leaves (Figure 10).

As a preventive control measures, it is recommended to regularly destroy weeds in a flower garden, on which leaf beetles can lay their larvae, collect adult individuals manually and destroy them, sprinkle plants affected by larvae, chlorophos or infusion of herbs from wormwood and larkspur.

Figure 10. Flowers affected by onion leaf beetle

For the preparation of infusion of herbs, you will need a bucket of finely chopped wormwood or 800 g dried, which is poured with cold water and infused for a day, then boiled for half an hour and diluted with water twice before spraying. Spraying wormwood is repeated several times at weekly intervals.

Infusion of larkspur is prepared at the rate of 1 kg of chopped herbs in a bucket of water. Means insist 2 days, then filtered and immediately applied.

Aphid refers to those insects that not only harm the plants themselves, but are also carriers of viral diseases (Figure 11).

For this reason, this insect must be quickly destroyed to prevent its reproduction. In the fight against aphids, Inta-Vir (1 tablet per bucket of water) and a solution of fufanon (10-15 ml per bucket) proved to be well proven.

From the video, you will learn more about lily pests and how to control them.

Treatment of lilies in the spring from diseases and pests

Unfortunately, lilies often get sick, they are damaged by many pests. Experienced gardeners know that prevention and timely assistance are the best way to fight. After all, the sooner the disease is detected, the easier it will be treated, and the more likely it is to save the entire blooming collection. That is why it is strongly recommended to spill the emerged shoots with special solutions. For example, a mixture of soda, ammonia and copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquor and copper chlorine.

Figure 11. Lilies infected with aphid colonies

In addition, immediately before planting, it is advisable to treat the bulbs with a 0.2% solution of foundationol or a solution of karbofos (1 tbsp per bucket of water). You can also disinfect the bulbs in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Yellow leaves

Why the leaves of a room lily turn yellow:

    dry air in the room. Lily is a tropical guest. Warm and humid air - this is a comfortable microclimate for it. It is necessary to place a flowerpot with a flower on a tray filled with wet pebbles, and better with expanded clay (it is able to retain moisture longer). A good option would be to buy a domestic air humidifier, which will keep the percentage of humidity at the right level,

sunburn. The direct rays of the sun can expose the pampered plant to this temperature stress. A request for a flower to change its location to a shaded one can be understood if the leaves turned yellow on one side of the lily, which the sun bakes.

Therefore, it is better to choose the eastern or western sides of the room as a habitat for lilies.

not nutritious soil.
The lack of iron and potassium in the substrate also contributes to the yellowing and fading of lily leaf plates.
It is urgent to feed her. The plant is especially in need of feeding during the growing season. The nutritional mixture can be prepared independently. To do this, you must take 9 grams of ferrous sulfate and 2 tsp. Of citric acid, dissolve this mixture in 3 liters of water. This solution can be used for root feeding and for spraying the whole plant,

  • the onset of autumn. For this time of year, the yellow leaves on your exotic princess are absolutely normal. It is necessary to give the flower a rest in a cool place without watering (about a month).
  • Shredding

    Three reasons why leaves shrink:

    • lack of light. The lily does not like direct sunlight, but it does not tolerate darkness either. It is desirable that the light was enough, but the light diffused, dim,
    • the soil is scanty. In the period from March to October, the tropical beauty should be fed fertilizer. Desirable liquid. Top dressing for ornamental flowering plants can be purchased at any flower shop.

    The reasons why the lily does not bloom:

      • unsuitable landing tank.

    • lack of light and fresh air. The flower is located far from the window, the room is poorly ventilated,
    • improperly rested plant rest. It is better to send the flower to rest in a cool shady place with a complete lack of watering. If the place is very warm and well lit, the lily will no longer bloom,

    Other common diseases

    • gray and red bulbous rot. Чаще всего появляется из-за чрезмерного полива и недостаточно рыхлого субстрата (застой влаги, закисание грунта).
      Необходимо удалить повреждённые участки луковицы.
      Pre-clearing them from the layer of the earth (move aside a part of the soil and strip the bulbs), and also cut the diseased roots, sprinkle them with activated charcoal or process fungicide. After this procedure, the bulbs are dried for 3 days. Watering reduce
    • Botrytis fungus. May appear in hot and humid conditions.
      Yellow spots appear on the leaves affected by the fungus, the disease spreads very quickly to the stems and flower buds.
      There is no cure for this lily disease and it is almost impossible to get rid of it. The flower usually dies
    • fusarium. This type of fungus usually affects the bulb. First, the bulb changes color, becomes dark brown, then falls into pieces.

    Potted lilies are rarely attacked by pests. But there are similar cases. The main enemies of the flower are: spider mite, aphid, mealybug, aphid and shieldweed.

    The cause of each of these harmful insects is the dry and hot air in the room.

    You can see the pests with the naked eye on the leaves and stems of the lily, as well as for noticeable changes in appearance: lethargy, yellowing and falling off of the leaf plates, slowing growth. To control pests use insecticides (actellic and karbofos).

    It is advisable to understand and see what your tropical beauty is complaining about and try to help her cope with her illness. In response to your care, she will reward you with lush blooms.