Hydrangea paniculata rightly loved by growers, no one can remain indifferent when, since the middle of summer, she dismisses her lush inflorescences of pink, blue or white shades. In addition, compared with other species, panicle hydrangea tolerates a cold climate.
Description of hydrangea paniculata
The plant reaches a height of two meters. On tubular sprouts grow oblong green leaves, pubescent from the bottom with a soft nap. Blooming panicle hydrangea large 15 cm in diameter and 25-30 cm long with flowers of whitish, cream, pink, red-purple hues. Flowering continues from mid-July to late October.
It is best to plant the hydrangea in such a way that in the midday hours it will be in partial shade. Under bright sunlight the plant will be uncomfortable. Hortensia in such conditions blooms later, flowering is not the most lush. Ideally, the plant will be illuminated by the sun only in the morning or evening hours.
Soil for the plant
Hortensia paniculata prefers to grow on fertilized loamy soil with high acidity. It is important to consider that the plant does not tolerate stagnant water. Before planting in the pit should be put drainage: a layer of small stones or expanded clay. If the soil is clay, it should be mixed with sand, add peat, the earth from under coniferous crops.
The color of the inflorescences depends on the level of soil acidity. Experienced flower growers pour 30 g of aluminum sulphate into a bucket of water and water the plant from spring to autumn. So they achieve that white flowers take on a blue color, and pink shades are replaced by violet.
Hydrangea paniculata planted in spring and autumn. Each term has its advantages and disadvantages.
- In an area with a warm climate, landing is possible in autumn, in September. Seedlings have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Such plants begin to bloom next season.
- In the middle lane and colder regions, spring planting is preferred.
- In the spring, hydrangeas are planted after the last frost, when the soil is warm enough.
- Saplings purchased in special containers (with a closed root system) can be planted in the garden in any summer month. However, you should choose a hydrangea with undamaged bark and kidneys, from half a meter to a meter tall, with 2-3 live shoots. From the earthy coma should look through live roots.
Saplings without earth coma (with an open root system), if it is not possible to plant immediately, should be stored in a cool room. The roots should be placed in a plastic bag, into it pour a few handfuls of peat, wet sawdust or a few pieces of wet moss. For substrate moisture to ensure that the roots are not dry.
- For planting dig a hole the size of 30 - 50 cm in each dimension.
- The soil excavated when digging is mixed with sand, peat, mineral or organic fertilizers.
- If you plan to plant several plants, the distance between plantings set from 1 m.
- Too long roots shorten when planting.
- If the roots had time to dry, they are soaked for a day. It will not be superfluous to add to the water a stimulator of rooting.
- Also, when planting it is useful to dip the roots in the clay mash.
- A mound of prepared earth is poured into the hole, a sapling is placed on it, covered with the remaining earth, compacted to prevent a void between the soil and the roots.
- The root neck should be at ground level, it should not be deepened.
- After planting the bush is watered abundantly.
- Then mulch layer (5 cm) of peat, or humus.
- When planting in the spring of annual shoots pruned 3-4 buds.
- Before planting, you can pour a liquid hydrogel into the well. During hot weather, it will help retain moisture in the soil.
If in the first year after planting on hydrangeas buds are formed, they are best removed, the plant should be allowed to get stronger and settle down well.
Hydrangea paniculata - water-loving plant, it is watered 2 times a week at the rate of about 3 buckets per plant. However, keep in mind that mulching and rain reduce the rate of irrigation.
Water should be without chlorine, it is good to use rain. It can be harvested in wide containers, such as baths or barrels.
Watering should be carefully, do not allow drops on the leaves and flowers. It harms ornamental plants.
In the first year after planting the plant is not necessary to feed.
Subsequently, the shrubs are fed three times a year.
- The first time - after the first shoots. Use complex mineral fertilizer.
- The second time is when the plants begin to form buds, around mid-June. Feeding is carried out with potassium sulphide and superphosphate in the ratio of 7: 4. In a bucket of water, dissolve 100 g of the mixture and water the shrub.
- In late August, fertilize the mullein for the third time. The infusion is prepared as follows: manure (1 part) is poured with water (3 parts) and insisted for a week. Then, to conduct dressing, the resulting concentrate is diluted with water 1:10.
Overdoing with dressing in order to get a particularly lush inflorescences is not worth it. The branches of a bush can not withstand their severity and break.
The soil must be periodically, at least 3 times per season, loosened so that a dense crust does not appear on its surface, which prevents the soil from retaining moisture. The earth is loosened to a depth of about 7 cm within a radius of 60 cm around the center of the bush. Weeding is also carried out during loosening.
To maintain the decorativeness of the bush, starting from 4-5 years of age, hydrangea should be cut off.
Pruning has the following objectives:
- Achieve lush flowering.
- Getting large beautiful inflorescences.
- The formation of hydrangeas in the form of an attractive tree.
- Rejuvenation of old bushes.
Pruning is carried out in the spring after the snow melts and after the buds swell, but before they dissolve.
Forming trim technology:
- Remove thin branches directed inside the crown. They are cut "on the ring."
- Pruned large shoots. Each leaves 2-3 buds. Sections are made transverse above the kidney.
- Cut weak and frost-damaged branches. Large frozen branches cut to a healthy site.
- On old bushes, 6-10 strong skeletal branches are left, the rest are completely carved. This procedure is carried out annually.
- Another way: the bush is completely cut off "on the stump." In this case, the rejuvenated ornamental plant is obtained in the second year.
Autumn pruning for hydrangea is not desirable, after it the plants endure frost worse. During this period, faded blossoms are removed so that the branches do not break under the snow.
It is possible to collect winter bouquets from scraps of hydrangea. This is done as follows: With the shoots, all the leaves are cut off, they are tied together a few pieces and hung down with flowers in a dark ventilated room for drying.
Hydrangea from cuttings
Cuttings can be cut before bud breaks or in the middle of summer with leaves.
In the first case:
- Cuttings cut obliquely so that each has at least 2 buds.
- Then they are planted in peat or sand under a slope of 60 degrees, deepening the lower kidney by 3 cm.
- Well watered, covered with spunbond and placed in a greenhouse.
- In the open ground rooted plants are planted next spring.
In the second case:
- The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and the upper ones are shortened by half.
- The cuttings for half an hour are put into the solution of the foundation base and planted in a container in peat with the addition of sand and placed in the shade.
- The seedling is covered with a can or top of a half-cut plastic bottle.
- Watering the seedling should be twice a week for 4 weeks.
- After this period, the cuttings must take root, the shelter from the containers can be gradually removed.
- For wintering containers are sent to a room with low positive temperatures.
- At a permanent place the plants are planted in August next year.
Hydrangea from layers
Hydrangea can also be propagated by layering.
- In the spring, until the buds have appeared, the soil around the plant is loosened, deepened by 15 cm and the lowermost shoot of the shrub is added dropwise.
- Escape can be fixed in the soil with a stone or strong wire.
- The above-ground part of the shoot is attached to the support and watered.
- In August, new shoots are formed on the layers, when they reach a length of 15-20 cm, they are spud. Hilling repeated every 7 - 10 days, until the resulting mounds will not be at a height of 20-25 cm ..
- It is possible to separate young plants from the parent one and plant it on a permanent place in a year.
The problems of growing hydrangea paniculata
With proper care, hydrangea, as a rule, does not get sick and is not affected. However, it may cause the following problems:
- Excessive humidity and low temperatures can cause powdery mildew, white rot or gray rot. For treatment, the aboveground part of the plant is sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, “Fundazol”, “Chistotsvet”, etc. are used.
- Hydrangea, especially in drought, is attacked by snails, spider mites and aphids. Food they serve as shoots, buds and flowers. Pests, if possible, are collected manually. Then the plant is treated with a solution of "Akarina", "Thiofos", "Vermitek" according to the attached instructions.
- Also apply the treatment of the leaves with soapy water. With a slight infection by pests, this method is effective.
- Another eco-friendly method of processing is garlic. At the same time, 200 g of crushed garlic are poured into a bucket of water and left for 3 days. For better adhesion of the solution, 40 g of soap are added to it before processing.
Adult panicled hydrangeas are able to tolerate winter frosts. However, after wintering in the shelter, the bush begins to bloom earlier blooms more abundantly. Necessarily need shelter young plants. It is also necessary in regions with very cold climates.
Before shelter, the near-stem circle of a bush is covered with a layer of mulch of 30 cm (peat or sawdust can be used).
Bend down the shoots in panicle hydrangea is not necessary, they can break. A series of stakes are set around the plant and wrapped around them with spruce or pine branches. Spanbond stretched from above, lutrasil.
Description of hydrangea
Hydrangea paniculata - a perennial shrub with a strong root system. Hydrangea roots extend far beyond the crown, located above the ground. In height, the shrub can reach 10 m. The leaves are elliptical in shape up to 12 cm in length, the size of flowers is up to 2.5 cm in diameter. The flowers are barren, at the beginning of flowering have a greenish light shade, gradually turning pink with the growth of the flower. Flowering begins in plants after 4 to 5 years. Hortensia produces fruits in the form of small boxes filled with seeds. After aging, the box cracks.
Types of hydrangeas
Varieties of plants produce in the form of flowering and color of petals:
- Flowering - spherical, raceme
- Possible shades of petals are white, red, pink, lilac, bicolor.
In a fairly cool Russian climate hydrangea is well acclimatized. The photo of plants shows that the flowering is painted in delicate shades, looks good in the open area. Hydrangea blooms for a long time.
Garden hydrangea has become widespread, many varieties have been selectively bred:
- Limelight A neat shrub of medium size (up to 2 m in height), keeps its shape without additional supporting devices. If the hydrangea grows in areas where most of the time is penumbra, the flowers have a delicate lime shade. In the bright sun bloom becomes white.
- Matilda. Spreading shrub, crown projection reaches 3 m in diameter, height up to 2 m. In the process of flowering, the hydrangea changes the shade of the petals from cream to pink with a green tint.
- Floribunda. The height of the shrub reaches 2 m, the inflorescences are very lush, creamy. Hydrangea has elongated pedicels.
- Kyushu. Hortensia reaches 3 m in height, crown razlapisty, in form resembles a fan. Feature varieties - fragrant flowers.
- Grandiflora. Blooming large, in the form of pyramids, blooms late in the second half of summer. During the flowering period, the hue of the petals changes in stages: cream, white, pink
The listed varieties are bred for a long time and are actively distributed in public gardens. There are dozens of newer varietal varieties of paniculate hydrangea.
On open ground, hydrangea behaves unpretentiously, requires minimal maintenance. Ideal planting material - seedlings age 4 - 5 years. When using such seedlings, the plant will bloom in the first year after planting. A good time to disembark is early spring, when the soil still retains high humidity. In the autumn, planting is also possible, but only in warm regions with off-winter winters.
Hortensia feels equally good in the sun and in partial shade, but it is recommended to select well-lit locations for disembarkation. In the morning, hydrangea loves the sun, in the late afternoon prefers shade. The eastern side of the site and a small shade from the western side will help hydrangeas to settle well, grow and give a bright bloom.
Hortensia paniculata likes an acidic soil rich in humus with a clay structure. On the soil with a pH level of up to 6.0 inflorescence becomes the most bright. It is also important that the plants consumed enough moisture. A loose, heavy soil with high acidity is ideal for the growth and flowering of hydrangeas.
Sandy or alkaline soil is not suitable for shrubs. Compositions where lime, chalk or wood ash is present should not be applied to the soil.
About landing step by step
When planting hydrangeas, it is recommended to observe the distance between seedlings of 1.2 - 1.4 m. Thus, the root system of each shrub will successfully grow and get stronger. To achieve early flowering, you can reduce the distance between seedlings to 0.7 - 0.8 m, after a few years, thinning the bushes.
Step-by-step instructions for landing:
- Not less than 2 weeks to dig holes for seedlings (possible 30 days before planting). Hydrangeas require spacious landing pits, on average 50 cm in diameter and 60 cm deep. If the seedlings are adults, large, the pit should be done more.
- A soil mixture is added to the pit. For the preparation of soil mixture, humus, peat, and chernozem soil are used. Urea (25 g), potassium sulfate (29 g), superphosphate (70 g) are added in small amounts.
- On the landing day, a pit is dug again, but smaller. Inside is placed hydrangea sapling. It is important to gently spread the roots of the germ. The seedling should be kept in the desired position, the pit should be filled with soil, compacting it to the desired state.
- The bush must be watered with plenty of water (8 - 12 liters). Sawdust, tree bark or peat are added to the surrounding soil. The application area is about 20 cm around the trunk, the height of the top dressing is 6 - 8 cm.
- Until the moment when hydrangea comes, it should be covered from the wind and daytime sunshine. This can be done with large sheets of polyethylene.
The root system of seedlings is recommended to trim a little. Determine the desired depth of landing can be on the root neck. This area should be raised 1–2 cm above the ground level.
Top dressing, fertilizersThe first 2 years of hydrangea, planted in the prepared soil, does not need additional feeding. Subsequently, the plant should be fed as follows:
- In spring, compound fertilizers are introduced under the shrub (must contain phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium),
- When the first inflorescences appear, secondary feeding is carried out for the season (superphosphate and potassium sulphate),
- Twice a year from spring to autumn, it is necessary to fertilize the hydrangea with cow or chicken droppings diluted with water.
Hortensia paniculata likes an acidic environment and responds well to lactic acid. Once a month, you can make kefir, sour milk, whey on the ground.
Watering hydrangeasWithout a sufficient amount of moisture, the plant can not survive wintering. Recommended irrigation rules for panicle hydrangea:
- In dry, hot summer periods, 15 to 20 liters of water are brought under the shrub every week.
- In less dry periods, watering is carried out every 15 days in an amount of 15 to 25 liters of water,
- During rainy seasons, watering is carried out 4-5 times in a volume of 15-25 liters.
To bring water in the portions on several l closer to trunks of a bush.
General recommendations for the care of hydrangea
As with most garden plants, hydrangeas require additional care measures:
- To preserve the moisture content of the soil around the hydrangea, mulching with pine needles, peat chips, sawdust and leaves is recommended.
- In the first few years after planting, it is unacceptable to subject the plant to drafts. Subsequently, the hydrangea can not be closed from the wind.
- Application of top dressing is unacceptable more often 1 time in 10 days. The excess of nutrients leads to a change in the color of foliage, reducing winter resistance.
- Loosening the soil around the bush is carried out as needed. Do not allow strong pressing of the soil.
Adding potassium permanganate will help protect the hydrangea from pests and parasites. Potassium permanganate will not have a detrimental effect on the perennial itself.
Transplantation and pruning of hydrangea paniculata
Пересаживать гортензию, с учетом ее любви к влаге, можно ранней весной. Обрезка проводится по следующим правилам:
- Поздней осенью срезаю все соцветия, чтобы стебли не сломались и не повредились под их весом со слоем снега,
- In the spring periods, cutting off weak shoots provides more lush flowering,
- Dying off, weak inflorescences are removed completely,
- Shoots affected in winter are cut to a woody base.
With pruning you can achieve a lush, bright flowering paniculate hydrangea.
Reproduction of hydrangeaHortensia is a perennial shrub, breeding is done in a vegetative way. For reproduction, cuttings, division of the bush, seeds, cuttings are used.
The best seedlings obtained from cuttings take root. They are cut off in early summer, when the stems contain a lot of moisture. Material for cuttings are processes in the lower part of the shrub, close to the ground. They should be separated by hand without using cutting tools. The cuttings should reach 10 cm, have 3 - 5 buds.
Preparing for the winter
Hortensia paniculata, being a perennial shrub, is well going through the winter periods. Despite this, the plant should be prepared for wintering:
- Throughout the year, do not allow an oversupply of top dressing with nitrogen, alkalinity of the soil,
- In late autumn, the soil around the shrub is covered with peat or dry leaves with a layer of 20 cm.
Such insulation will keep the root system intact.
Features and possible problems
Hortensia paniculata is prone to the following diseases:
- Gray rot. Appears as a result of fungal formations of drilling color. It is necessary to fight the fungus immediately after detection.
- White rot. When the disease affects the root system of the plant. Shrub stalks do not get nutrients from the soil, causing the hydrangea to dry out.
- Mealy dew. The disease affects the leaves of the plant, provokes the death of stems and inflorescences.
- Tracheomycous wilt. Fungal lesion, in which the plant root system is infected first, and then the entire shrub.
For the treatment of these diseases are used fungicides, which are sold in gardening stores. Panicle hydrangea can also be affected by pests: snails, aphids, bedbugs, weevils, etc. Insecticidal preparations are used to combat them.
Features of the plant and its origin
Panicle hydrangea - the most successful and correct option for self-disembarkation at the dacha. In height, as already cited above, the bush does not reach even one and a half meters, but its flowers will envelop all the branches.
Panicle hydrangea today includes several dozen varieties, although during the Soviet era, there were no more than 5.
The fact presented is primarily associated with high-tech developments, and simply speaking, the process of hybridization, so that today you can enjoy inflorescences of various shades.
Hydrangea came to the dacha plots from the Far East, where the shrub experienced a period of "domestication" after wild life in China and Japan. By the way, now you can still find wild hydrangeas in these countries, however, their growth is not enough up to 1 meter.
The appearance of the garden varieties presented by the shrub allows you to use it on the summer cottages in landscape design, because if you wish, you can give the bush a suitable shape with the help of timely pruning.
Caring for hydrangea is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to water and feed in time, then the risk of being affected by diseases and pests will be reduced to a minimum. Do not forget to pruning, then lush bloom will be provided.
Paniculised hydrangea is able to fit into any landscape design. From it you can grow a hedge, plant in pairs. Perfectly it will look like a single plant.
Hydrangea paniculata: plant featuresIt is difficult to call a hydrangea paniculata a flower, it is rather a shrub or a tree reaching a height of up to 10 m. It has unusual pyramidal inflorescences about 25-30 cm in length, similar to fluffy panicles.
Hydrangea flowers are sterile, that is, not giving fruit. The plant blooms from June to October, changing the color of the inflorescences throughout the season. In the beginning, the flowers are creamy white, then pure white, gradually turning pink. And by the end of flowering, in October, the hydrangea paniculata changes its color to reddish with green splashes.
The plant has more than 25 varieties, of which the most common are "Matilda", "Kyushu", "Unic" and "Grandiflora". These varieties have the largest, bright and fragrant flowers.
The plant can rightly be called the eastern beauty, since the homeland of the hydrangea is paniculata - China, Japan and the south of Sakhalin. The flower well gets accustomed to the temperate climatic zones, calmly enduring the winter cold and summer heat.
How to plant hydrangea in open groundFans of hydrangea paniculata claim that it is quite simple to grow this plant on their land, its planting and care do not require special skills. The plant grows quite quickly, the inflorescences are born on the shoots already in the year of planting.
Flower growing soil
Landing paniculate hydrangea is recommended for a good, lush color. on fertile, loamy, red-soil soils. Does not like sandy, calcareous soils and feels bad on neutral ones - the color of the inflorescences turns pale, and the plant will be generally weak.
On acidic soils, hydrangea blooms brighter and better, therefore, if the soil is not sour enough, you need to add brown peat, sawdust, coniferous soil (spruce or pine compost) when planting the plant. Possible such a variant as planting to hydrangea in the near-stem circles of ground cover plants: moss-shaped saxifrage, various stonecrop.
Planting hydrangea paniculata in open ground: description of the processPlanting time determines which year the hydrangea paniculata blooms. If climatic conditions allow, you can land in early spring (March), then the plant will delight with its lush color already in the year of planting. In the northern regions it is better to plant when the soil is already warm enough (April), so that it will take root well and take root. The autumn version of planting hydrangea is also possible, but then it will be necessary to warm it for the winter, and it will bloom next year.
On a permanent place, seedlings of the hydrangea paniculata are planted at the age of 4-5. The root system of the plant expands in breadth much more than the crown, that is, a place to plant should be prepared based on the size of the root and seedling.
Experienced gardeners who know how to plant a paniculate hydrangea.,they are advised to make pits with dimensions of 50 × 50 cm. But sometimes, with strongly developed roots, the depth of the planting pit can reach up to 80 cm. The distance between the plants is about 2-2.5 m.
Then, up to 3 buckets of water are poured into the pit and left overnight so that the moisture is absorbed into the ground. Next morning you need to fill the pit with the substrate from fertile soil, peat, humus and sand in the ratio: 2: 2: 1: 1, and also add a mixture of mineral and organic fertilizers (65 g of superphosphate + 25 g of urea + 25 g of potassium sulphate).
Before planting, it is necessary to trim the roots and annual shoots, leaving only 3-5 pairs of buds. Then the seedling is placed in a hole, crushed with soil, mulched with a compost layer, peat.
Care tips for paniculate hydrangea in the open fieldHydrangea paniculata is completely unpretentious and can grow even in harsh conditions, such as gassed places near highways. But in order to get a healthy hydrangea in the garden with large flowering pyramids of different shades, it is necessary to ensure proper care of the plant.
Peculiarities of irrigation of paniculate hydrangea
The plant is very fond of the abundance of moisture, therefore, the soil around the bush must be constantly moistened. Especially during hot dry summers, the soil should not be allowed to dry under hydrangea.
Watering the plant should be once a week, very abundant, consuming up to 30 liters of water per square meter of soil around the bush. In rainy periods, watering is reduced. It is recommended to add potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) to the water during watering. Also, for the preservation of moisture in the soil it is necessary to regularly mulch the soil under a bush.
Feed for hydrangea paniculata contribute quite often. This fast-flowering shrub requires many nutrients. In the fall - mineral fertilizers, in the spring - urea solution (20 g per bucket of water, 2 buckets per plant).At the beginning of the growing season, the plant will benefit from green fertilizer (for example, from young nettle) diluted with water 1:10. On a two-meter hydrangea is 1 bucket solution.
In addition, once every two weeks with watering make a mullein infusion (3 liters of water poured into a bucket of manure and insist for three days). Before using 1 liter of infusion must be diluted in a bucket of water.
During the formation of inflorescences, mineral fertilizer is applied twice twice with an interval of 14-15 days.
How to trim a hydrangea bush
Care for paniculate hydrangea involves mandatory regular pruning of the plant. The inflorescences that survived until late autumn are pruned so that the branches do not break under the snow. Regular pruning in spring, before flowering, also has a beneficial effect on the lush and long color of hydrangea.
Weak shoots and those that impede the growth of the plant as a whole, are removed completely. Frozen over the winter shoots pruned to healthy wood, and they bloom the same year. One-year shoots are selected, about ten of the strongest, they are cut to 3-5 pairs of buds to form a beautiful bush shape. If the pruning is late, the plant does not develop well and may not bloom.
Old bushes can also be rejuvenated by pruning on the stump. This will allow for the second year to restore the decorativeness of the bush and to preserve the possibility of further reproduction of hydrangea.
How to save the hydrangea in winterAlthough hydrangea paniculata has good resistance to temperature extremes and cold weather, it is better to take care of its safe wintering in advance. For this, the roots - the most vulnerable part of the plant - should be carefully covered.
Good insulation can serve as rotted manure, peat or dry leaves, which are placed under the bush in a thick layer (20 cm). Thus, cold winters will not damage the hydrangea roots.
Reproduction of paniculata hydrangea
Consider how to propagate paniculate hydrangea layering and cuttings. For harvesting cuttings use the remaining shoots in the spring pruning.
It is best to cut the cuttings in early June, when the shoots contain a sufficient amount of moisture. Good material for grafting is the bottom of the trunks, which you need to pinch off with your hands, and not shears.
Cuttings are harvested with 3-5 buds, up to 10 cm long, then they are soaked for two days in a growth stimulator.
Hydrangea can be propagated by layering, but this method is less productive. Young flexible branches that grow from the side are bent away from the uterine bush and pin them to the ground (in a hole 15 cm deep), tying the ends of the branches to the pegs.
Ground ground shoots need to be powdered with a light mixture of peat and soil and moisten the ground. When the bends form their own roots, they can be separated from the mother bush and transplanted.
Diseases and pests of panicle hydrangea
Panicled hydrangeas are sometimes exposed to diseases and pest attacks. The most common disease is powdery mildew.It is necessary to fight it with the help of the solution "Fundazola" with water (20-25 g per 10 l of water). Another suitable remedy is Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10-12 l of water).
Hydrangea attacks most often among pests. aphid. Garlic tincture will help to cope with it: 250 g of peeled garlic cloves are crushed and 10 liters of water are poured. Insist for two days, then add 50 g of grated soap, mix and spray once a week until the aphid disappears.
How to cover for the winter?
Adult panicled hydrangeas do not need a winter shelter, but young plants it is better bend down and spruce up.
For mature busheshaving fragile wood danger of heavy snowfall.
So that the branches do not break off, they are tied together and attached to a reliable support.
The abundant flowering of fragrant "sweeper" begins in mid-summer and lasts until the autumn
Coloring inflorescences depends on their age (the older, the rosier) and soil acidity: white in neutral soil flowers get pink shades in sour substrate.
This property is widely used, especially since acidified, soft water is beneficial to plants.
Some varieties at a young age do not form lush inflorescenceshowever, with age, flowering increases and reaches its proper form.
Blossoming "panicles" are cut for a long time. Even when dried, they retain their shape, color, and partly aroma.