Many do not bother with such works, leaving everything to chance.
But experienced gardeners know how to prepare peonies for winter, and willingly share their knowledge with everyone.
Cessation of watering and feeding
After completion of the flowering period, the plant no longer needs moisture in the same volume as during active growing season. The summer norm of irrigation for pions is 10-25 liters of water under a bush with an interval of a week. Since the beginning of autumn there is no need for such quantities of liquid, and moisture is gradually reduced.
You can apply this irrigation scheme: 25 liters, after a week or two, already 15-20, and so on until complete cessation.
For this purpose, potassium-phosphorus solutions are used. 15 g of phosphorus and potassium will be enough for 10 liters of water. The resulting mixture is poured so that it does not fall on the neck of the plant. The same elements can be applied in dry form (they are sold in the form of tablets). Before such introduction the bush is plentifully watered and evenly sprinkled the crushed tablets into the well.
This is the most important part of frost preparation. It is undesirable to leave it in early spring - then the secateurs can simply not “take” the stalk softened during the winter. The main thing is to catch the right moment. Depending on the region, this may be both the last decade of October and mid-November. If we take “according to science”, then the preparation of pions for winter determines the best time for pruning on the first days after frosts. It is important that the soil was dry.
By this time, the sprouts will already slag on the ground, and such manipulation will not harm the plant. Cut the grassy peonies as low as possible without leaving a high hemp (2-3 cm is enough). All ground part is removed (flowers and stems with leaves). Then they are collected and burned.
Some use cut material for cover, but this is not worth it - it can be a good place for hibernation and reproduction of pests. Lying nearby leaves are also collected and disposed of. Some gardeners after such an event make a combined top-dressing from tree resin and bone meal (60/40%).
To protect the rhizome from frost, apply mulching holes. The best materials for the "blankets" are humus and dry peat. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather conditions in a specific area: if 10–12 cm is enough for areas with a temperate climate, then 15–20 cm will be needed for the northern sections.
The benefits of such shelters are many - they not only retain heat, but also feed the soil with beneficial substances. For "age" plants, it is also an excellent growth stimulant.
Materials such as are not suitable for coating:
- coniferous "paws"
- sawdust and shavings.
With the onset of spring, such a “cover” is removed, but not completely: a thin layer of mulch is left in the hole, which will restrain the growth of weeds.
Adding an article to a new collection
Fall for the florist is not the time to relax. Plants in the flower garden still require competent care and careful preparation for winter. And some cultures are not too late to plant! We’ll tell you all about the secrets of planting, caring and breeding peonies in the autumn months.
Peonies, that grassy, that treelike - decoration of any site. And not only in spring and summer - even in the autumn, after flowering, their decorative carved leaves delight the eye almost to frost. And although these perennials are quite unpretentious, it is worthwhile to pay them some attention before the onset of the winter months so that they will decorate your plot the next season.
Planting peonies in the fall
Successfully planting peonies in the fall is possible in September and in October, and in regions with a mild climate - in early November. Strangely enough, but in the spring it is more difficult to do, and the chances that the plants will take root safely are less.
For planting peony fit sunny place without drafts with fertile well-drained soil of neutral acidity. The most unfortunate choice would be a watery, shaded area with heavy ground.
Approximately 2-3 weeks before planting, you can begin to prepare planting pits - so the soil will have time to settle, and the plant will take root better. The holes are dug to a depth of 60-80 cm (peonies have long, fast-growing roots) at intervals of about 1 m between future seedlings. At the bottom of the pit lay a layer of drainage thickness of 10-15 cm (coarse sand, gravel, broken brick), and then - pre-prepared soil mixture from black soil, peat, sand and humus (in equal shares). Also in the mixture without fail add fertilizer - 200-400 g of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea.
Peony seedling is carefully examined for damage and traces of rot (all this is removed with a sharp knife), disinfected for 10-15 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Then the seedling is carefully placed in the prepared hole - the roots should be gently straightened, and the uppermost bud should be placed so that it is 3-4 cm below ground level, and covered with soil. Planted plants are watered without fail - this will additionally help to compact the soil around the seedling.
Before the first winter season, freshly planted peonies need to be covered with a thick layer of dried leaves, peat, cardboard or any other covering material.
Reproduction (division) of peonies in the fall
Peonies - the culture that is preferable to replant and propagate in the fall. At one place, this plant can exist for many years, but every 5-6 years peony bushes should be divided and transplanted to avoid degeneration. The timely division of pions allows the plant to rejuvenate, start its abundant flowering and at the same time get rid of rot and dry roots.
As we have already mentioned, the root system of pions is powerful and branched, but at the same time quite fragile, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to dig up an old bush without “losses”. In any case, you first need to cut the entire aboveground part, leaving the "hemp" about 15 cm each. Then, experienced flower growers advise to carefully dig the peony at a distance of 25-30 cm from the rhizome, and then pull the plant out of the ground with a fork, helping yourself, holding the trimmed stems. If the bush does not give in, there is the option of dividing it into several parts right in the ground - using a shovel and a hammer.
A properly divided and transplanted peony will begin to bloom profusely already in the 3rd year after planting, and will be able to please you with individual flowers next season.
Dug out peonies shake off the ground and first of all with a sharp knife they relieve from the damaged and sick parts, rotten or dried roots. Then the accrete rhizome is washed under running water, dried in the shade for a couple of hours and the actual process of dividing begins.
You need to get as a result delenki with healthy roots up to 20 cm long, a pair of stems and 3-5 buds of renewal. Try to first divide the common rhizome with your hands; if it does not work, take a sharp, disinfected knife in your hands. If the plant is too large, first cut the rhizome into 2-3 parts, and then proceed to the final division.
Cut delenok places before planting need to be processed so that they remain healthy and soon take root. A weak solution of potassium permanganate, in which pieces of rhizome can be soaked for half an hour, and then powdered the cuts with ash or a mixture of crushed charcoal and sulfur (1: 1) is suitable for these purposes. You can also use clay mash (a mixture of water and clay consistency of thick cream), in which the rhizomes are dipped, and then dried. Some add the same ash to this talker, while others advise adding any growth promoter (30-40 ml per 1 l of water and 300 g of clay).
Now the peony delenki are ready for planting in a new place as described above.
Peonies care in autumn
Even if you are not going to plant new peonies this fall and replace the peonies already existing on the plot, this does not mean that in September-October you have nothing to do in the flower garden. Like any plants remaining to winter in the open field, peonies will require some effort from you to successfully survive the winter.
Watering peonies in the fall is reduced to the necessary minimum - it is carried out if the weather is dry for a long time. Watering the plant is preferably not in the middle of the bush, but in the surrounding recess.
Fertilize the peonies in the fall? Yes, this procedure is necessary - the roots of perennials and in the pre-winter months continue to grow, at the same time accumulating the nutrients necessary for the plant to successfully survive the winter and germinate in the spring.
In the fall, peony bushes are fed with a potassium-phosphorus mixture, which not only nourishes them, but also contributes to the budding of the buds, which is the key to beautiful flowering next season.
Top dressing of peonies in the autumn is carried out both in a dry, and in the liquid state. If you choose the first option, then after abundant watering, just pour about 30 g of the mixture under each bush, where potassium and phosphorus will be in equal proportions. When feeding with a solution of potassium-phosphate fertilizers, it is important to water the plants so that the liquid does not fall on the leaves, which can cause burns.
Is it necessary to cut peonies in autumn? Of course - if you leave the plants to winter in the form of tall bushes, the above-ground stalks will rot over the winters and become a source of infection. Pruning will allow peonies to rest after flowering, to fully prepare for the cold and successfully winter.
Both young and adult peonies need autumn pruning. After the first frost, cut the stems with leaves flush with the ground so that the remaining hemp does not exceed a couple centimeters in height. Cut off the stems is better to burn, so that they do not become a source of infection on the site, and sprinkle the sections with ash at the rate of 2-3 handfuls per bush.
Before snow falls on the ground, plant peonies on the ground with 8-10 cm thick compost or lowland peat and leave it in this state until spring. In the spring, mulch from peat or humus can not be removed - it will become a good fertilizer.
As you can see, a lot of care efforts in the fall will not require peonies from you, although of course you will have to do something in a flower garden. And these small efforts are worth it. Believe me, comfortably overwintered and full of strength peonies next season will certainly please you with a healthy look and lush flowering.
A few words about digging
Inexperienced gardeners are often interested in specialized forums about whether to dig peonies for the winter. Many flowers really need a comfortable wintering in the conditions of a cellar, a refrigerator or a cool storeroom, since being in the freezing ground will lead them to inevitable death.
It is not necessary to dig up peonies in the fall, because perennial winters well and tolerates severe frosts under safe shelter. Dig a peony only for transplanting to another place or for the purpose of flower reproduction.
The most important stage of the preparation of peonies for the winter - pruning of the stems. Many gardeners neglect this procedure or perform it too early, thereby harming perennials. What is the need for pruning and how to produce it correctly?
Do I need to trim the peonies in the fall? It is necessary, and these activities are aimed not only at the aesthetics of your site, and facilitating labor in the spring. Even if the leaves were not affected in the summer season by any pests and fungi, they must be removed without fail.
With the onset of cold weather, insects, including those not entirely useful for perennials, are seeking shelter for wintering. Un harvested foliage becomes an ideal haven for them, and in the spring pests actively lay their eggs and larvae in the soil and plant tissues.
Also leaves softened in the spring can become a place where pathogens will begin to hide, which subsequently can harm young shoots.
Thus, the autumn pruning of the peony becomes an obligatory sanitary measure. When is it best to remove leaves and stems?
In order not to harm the pion, it is necessary to trim in a clearly limited time. Some gardeners completely cut the perennial at the end of its ornamental period, and this is a colossal mistake.
In the foliage until mid-autumn, very important photosynthesis processes take place, during which the roots accumulate specific substances.
These elements help the plant to successfully recover its strength after lush flowering, prepare for the cold, winter and actively begin to grow with the onset of heat.
In summer, only dried flower stalks should be cut, foliage should not be affected. The removal of the entire above-ground part, which has already become unnecessary due to the loss of its decorative effect, will tremendously harm perennials and deprive it of important nutrition. If the plant does not die, then next year will definitely be weakened.
In the fall pruning peony is made only after the establishment of frost. The plant is already fully prepared for the winter, so removing the leaves does not harm him. Determine the correct time for pruning can be as foliage - it must completely lie on the ground.
If you do not have the opportunity to be on the site during the first frosts, you can remove almost the entire above-ground part of the peony on the last day of the outgoing season, leaving 3-4 central stems with leaves that will ensure the course of the photosynthesis process and the root system nutrition.
Make a feed for peony in the fall should be about 2 weeks before the predicted frosts. Depending on the climatic zone, perennials are fertilized from the 20th of September to October 10.
It is important to choose the optimal composition of preparations that will help the flower to successfully overwinter, and in the spring to quickly grow and give the gardener their luxurious luxuriant inflorescences in the right time.
For successful wintering, the pion root system requires phosphorus and potassium, but nitrogen is strictly contraindicated. The last element stimulates the growth of green mass, these processes are completely unnecessary at this stage and even dangerous.
Grown up plant can die because it does not have time to prepare for winter.
Making feedings in the autumn has several goals:
- the root system is strengthened and the plant reliably survives the onset of cold weather,
- lays the foundation for the development of strong and large buds, which will give powerful foliage and large inflorescences.
Top-dressings for pion can be applied both in dry form and with solutions of complex preparations. If the autumn was no precipitation, it is better to use the liquid version, strait under a bush about a liter of the drug diluted according to the instructions.
Protracted rain implies the use of granular fertilizers: they are scattered over the perennial perennial circle, coordinating the flow with the recommendations of the manufacturers.
Dry top dressing can be shallowly buried in the soil, with a chopping wave, or left to lie on the surface: under the action of rainwater, the granules will gradually dissolve, and the microelements and macronutrients contained in them will go to the root system of the pion.
Pruning and fertilizing are not all the activities you need to do in preparing peonies for the winter. In regions where strong frosts are established in winter or the amount of snow is not enough to protect perennials, the flower must be covered.
In the middle lane, where strong frosts are established, as a rule, already after heavy snowfalls, it is quite logical that the question is whether to cover peonies for the winter. If a perennial grows on a high or wind-blown spot in your area, then you will need to protect it.
If the pion grows near the northern fence or is surrounded by trees and shrubs, the creation of a shelter will not be necessary.
There are recommendations regarding the organization of shelters for pions based on the regional “ownership” of the land plot:
- in Siberia, mulching with the closing of the space from blowing is necessary,
- in the Urals also need a thorough protection of pions from frost,
- in the middle lane, peonies for the winter only mulch or only spud,
- in the Volga region is sufficient standard hilling.
If the listed factors and climatic conditions of your region tell you to create a shelter - proceed to the manipulation with the onset of the first dry frosts and a steady decrease in temperature to -5 0.
To protect the perennial from the harmful effects of frost is necessary in several stages:
- Since the growth buds of a peony are located at a depth of only 6 cm, the main measure for their protection from frost is hilling. After pruning, sprinkle on the bushes of the earth, thereby increasing the resistance of the plant to frost.
- From above it is necessary to fill a thick (15-18 cm) layer of mulch.
- A wooden or plastic box, an ordinary bucket or a spruce can be put on top of the mulch layer to protect it from blowing.
Separately, consider the issue of mulch material. In his role, in no case should cut-off leaves of peony and other garden plants.
Преющая органика привлечет к себе насекомых-вредителей и патогенную флору, что приведет к опасным заболеваниям многолетника. По этой же причине не рекомендуется для укрытия использовать солому или навоз.
Популярные мульчирующие материалы, такие как хвоя, свежие опилки, древесная кора, способствуют закислению почвы, что может негативно отразиться на здоровье пиона.
Of course, if you do not have any other means to organize a shelter, you can use them, but every year you have to test the pH of the land with litmus strips and in time to alkalify it using available drugs.
High-quality peat and compressed sawdust are ideal mulch that does not affect the soil PH.
If you live on the site all year round, the snow cleared from the tracks is recommended to be thrown on top of peonies and other perennials. The more there will be a covering layer, the better the plants will endure frosts. In addition, melting snow nourishes the earth with quality and gives flowers the power to grow and develop.
In early spring, during the period of active melting of snow, shelter must be dismantled. Most of the mulch should be otgresti from peony, so that it does not lead to overheating of the root system and growth buds.
A small layer should be left - it will serve to preserve moisture and protect the ground from the dispersion of weed seeds.
What works need peonies in preparation for winter
Winter cold - a serious test for plants. Peonies are quite persistent, but survival experiments are not recommended.
For good protection from severe frosts, the height of the shelter should not be less than 10-15 cm
Care for peonies in the fall includes the following procedures:
- cutting the stems during the first frost,
- top dressing of bushes (liquid or dry),
- separation and transplant of overgrown specimens,
- inspection of each bush for damage by pests and diseases
- treatment and prophylactic procedures, if diseases are detected,
- abundant watering of each bush, if the summer was dry, and the autumn is warm,
- hiding with spruce branches, dry leaves, peat or sawdust.
All procedures are simple, the main thing is to carry them out on time and carefully, following simple rules developed by experienced growers.
Top dressing: a stock of forces to spring
By the fall, the root system of peonies is very weak - over the summer it gives all its power to foliage and buds. In order for new roots to form successfully and the plant entered the winter prepared, it must be fed.
Peonies need to be especially carefully fertilized from mid-September to mid-October - at this time the plant most actively accumulates strength. If you live in a colder region, postpone the start of feeding to the first days of September, in general, 1–1.5 months before pruning.
In the autumn, it is necessary to apply potassium and phosphorus based fertilizers to the soil. Nitrogen-containing fertilizing leave until spring - they stimulate the active growth of the stems, and before the onset of cold weather is undesirable.
Dry method is most often fertilized with peonies in especially rainy weather.
dry dressingThe dry method most often fertilizes peonies in particularly rainy weather
Developed two basic methods of feeding peonies before winter:
- Dry If summer and autumn are rich in moisture, the roots of the plants have already absorbed enough liquid. In this case, they need granulated "food" - it is more convenient to dose it, it acts much longer than liquid. After scattering potassium granules (15 g) and phosphorus (20 g) around the bush, slightly loosen the ground.
- Liquid. Option for a dry summer and warm autumn. Dissolve 1 tablet of potassium and 1 tablet of phosphorus with a bucket of water, mix well and spill peonies - 1–2 l of top dressing per 1 bush.
Apply fertilizer gently so that it does not fall on the radical neck of the bush. Fertilizing peonies is recommended only in the third year after transplantation.
If it is not possible to buy a special fertilizer, make it yourself from improvised means:
- Dilute 1 bucket of fresh cow dung in 5 buckets of water. You can also use bird droppings - then you need 25 buckets of water for 1 bucket of droppings.
- Place the solution in a barrel in a sunny place for 2 weeks to ferment.
- At the end of this period, add 200 g of superphosphate and 500 g of wood ash to the barrel. Stir once more.
- Dilute the resulting product with clean water (5–7 buckets on cow dung, 1 bucket of funds per 2 buckets of water on bird droppings) and feed the plants. If winter has become stingy with snowfalls, do not be lazy, throw a small snow drift over your flower beds.
After pruning, it is good to fertilize peonies with a mixture of 200 g of bone meal and 300 g of wood ash.
Trimming: nothing extra before winter
Peonies of all varieties should be pruned before the onset of cold weather. Typically, pruning is done during the first frost, in the second half of October and early November (middle lane).
August-September is the time when peonies are actively absorbing nutrients in preparation for winter. Therefore, if the plant is cut too early, its development and flowering will be weak. The later the peony is cut, the more beautiful and healthier it will be next summer.
How to determine what time to cut the flowers? Foliage turned red and lay on the ground - it means that the time has come, prepare the shears. When cutting the peonies, keep the instrument parallel to the ground.
Without a transplant, a peony bush can grow in one place up to 10–15 years
The procedure can not be carried out in the spring, because:
- withered stalks that have been wintered under the snow are difficult to prune in spring,
- last year's stalks and foliage - the ideal breeding ground for pests,
- spring pruning - the risk of damaging the delicate buds that are hidden under the ground.
There are certain differences in pruning different varieties of peonies:
- Grassy peonies, in which the foliage has withered or gone dark spots, are pruned in early September. If the foliage is healthy, pruning is done in late September-October. Cut grassy varieties need to the level of the soil.
- Tree peonies are pruned, as a rule, in the spring, and before covering for the winter, you need to cut off the damaged and diseased shoots. The best time for the procedure is when the night temperature drops to –5–7 ° C. As a rule, this is the beginning of November.
- ITO-hybrids were obtained from pions from different climatic zones, so they tolerate frost well. They should be cut in October-November, as well as tree varieties. During the procedure, all the shoots are cut to the root - as in grassy varieties. In autumn, these plants may form buds, which protrude slightly above the soil, so be careful not to damage them.
With proper and timely anti-aging pruning, you can save the life of a perennial for 60–80 years
If the leaves are withering or sick, remove them as the problem arises, and shed the shrub from the watering can with a solution of 1 teaspoon of phytosporine per bucket of water (the solution will last for 3-4 square meters).
Before cutting flowers should be covered at night with non-woven material.
All that is cut from the bush, you need to take out of the garden and burn in order to avoid diseases of flowers and to destroy pests.
Shelter: protect from frost
Varietal peonies prefer bright and open areas
In regions with severe winters, it is imperative to “wrap” peonies in autumn. In places with a mild climate, covering can be neglected. In general, the decision whether to cover or not depends on the type of peony:
- ITO-peonies are resistant to frost, so they can not cover. The exception is weak and young plants that can be protected from the cold with spruce branches or foliage.
- Herb peonies cover with the onset of a stable cooling is necessary. For this, peat, loose humus, sawdust are suitable.
- Tree peonies have fragile branches that can not be bent to the ground, like raspberry shoots. Divide the branches of the pion into bundles, tie them. Then mulch the trunk circle with peat - it is the only one that does not contribute to the appearance of gray rot. Cover the bush with a hut made of lapnik tree, on top of it with burlap or nonwoven fabric.
Video: how to cover peonies
Peonies can be affected by fungus (spots, powdery mildew, gray mold) or pests (bronze, aphids, caterpillars and root nematodes). Cut off the infected parts of the stems, leaves or roots and burn off the site.
Caring for peonies does not take you much time - these flowers are perfectly adapted to survive in the cold. The main thing - in no case do not neglect the autumn care, because during this period the health of the plant is laid. Dedicate your favorite flowers for a day or two, and they will thank you for their lush flowering and delicate aroma.
Disease and pest treatment
Viruses among pions spread very quickly, affecting a large number of plants. They are transmitted by pests and when pruning flowers with dirty, unprocessed tools.
The withered leaves and stems of peonies are an excellent place for the accumulation and reproduction of pests and diseases, so they must be removed in a timely manner. After pruning, they need to be taken out of the site and burned.
Weakened plants are affected not only by viruses, but also by fungi. Particularly susceptible to defeat terry peonies of American selection.
The transplanted peony bushes are also a special risk group. At the new place the flowers go through a period of adaptation, and their immunity decreases. Prevents the infection of flowers by processing them with fungicides or potassium permanganate.
Prevents the appearance of diseases helps preventive treatment of bushes from diseases and pests. The procedure is carried out before planting pions. The plant for half an hour is lowered into a solution of blue vitriol, Maxim, Fitosporina-M.
Already growing plants are sprayed with one of the above preparations, and the soil is spilled with a solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Removing the shoots in the fall, deoxidizing the soil with ashes, dolomite flour or lime, moderate watering and planting flowers at a distance of 1 meter from each other allows the plants to be as much as possible protected from diseases and pest infestation.
Insects rarely have a significant impact on peonies, but worsen their decorative appearance and spread diseases.
To protect against pests, the bushes are treated with Spark, Fufanol, Karbofos, Aktellik.
To prevent harmful insects and diseases from accumulating in the soil, the soil around the bush is dug up before winter.
When to start preparing for the winter by region
Pruning, fertilizing, pest and disease control is the first step in preparing this perennial for winter. It is important to cover all the peonies for the winter so that they do not freeze. This procedure is especially relevant in those regions where the winter is long, little snow and very cold. In different regions, the timing of the preparation of peonies for winter differ due to different periods of frost.
In outskirts of Moscow
In Moscow, the preparation of peonies for winter begins on the first days of October and ends on the last days of this month. All work should be completed 2 weeks before the onset of cold weather.
All preparatory work in the Urals ends by mid-October. Shrubs should be well wrapped up in order to safely endure the cold winter.
In Siberia, the preparation of pions for winter continues until early October. All work must be completed before the onset of stable frosts. When working, you need to focus on weather conditions. The shelter of bushes is carried out only in dry weather.
In the European part of Russia, tree peonies can not be covered, but where winter is long and frosty, bushes need shelter. Young and weak shrubs are also subject to mandatory shelter, regardless of where they grow.
Tree peonies have fragile branches that cannot be bent to the ground. Before shelter, pion branches are divided into bundles and tied up. Then the trunk circle is mulched with peat. Layer thickness depends on the region; the colder it is, the more mulch is required.
The shrub top is covered with spruce branches. The frame is fixed with a rope, and the nonwoven fabric or burlap is spread from above and pressed down on the ground with bricks or boards.
Young bushes are covered with a 20-centimeter layer of peat, an overturned bucket or box is placed on top, which is covered with any non-woven material.
With snowy winters, snowdrifts are thrown at the bushes, they additionally protect the plants from freezing.
Grassy peonies hide with the onset of a stable cooling. A layer of peat, crumbly rotted humus, sawdust is used as a cover. During cold winters with a gusty wind, from above, the plants are covered with spruce branches and a layer of lutrasil or spunbond. When snow falls, snow drifts up from the top.
Ito-hybrids are resistant to cold, but even they need additional shelter in cold and light snow regions. Young and weak plants take shelter in any case, even if the winter is warm. The soil around the plants is covered with a layer of mulch, and the top is covered with leaves of forest trees, spruce branches and spunbond.
In order for peonies to be always beautiful and healthy, you need to listen to the advice of knowledgeable growers.
- If the bushes of peonies have grown, they need to sit down. The thickening of flowers leads to the defeat of their diseases and pests, and complicates the shelter of the bushes (trees). This procedure is carried out at the end of August - the first half of September, when the weather is dry and warm. Peonies adapt to a new place, take root and with the advent of spring, they quickly grow.
- Fertilize peonies can only be 3 years after planting.
- Before pruning, peonies at night are covered with non-woven material.
- If there is a need for an earlier pruning of leaves, then 2-3 leaves are left on each stem.
- The concentration of the solution of fungicides in the treatment of young plants from diseases is reduced by 2 times. Adult peonies are sprayed according to the dosage.
- To protect the flowers from frost, the height of the shelter of pions should be equal to 10-20 centimeters.
- The cut-off foliage of pions is not used as a covering material. It attracts pests and diseases.
- During the winter, peonies can be additionally covered with a layer of snow. This provides additional protection against frost.
- The bushes growing along fences, buildings or under trees are wrapped the least. The snow cover on them is delayed naturally.
- In the spring, after thawing of the soil, as soon as the buds appear on the pions, the shelter is removed, the mulch is removed and replaced with a new one.
When you need to prepare peonies for the winter
Usually, before or after flowering, plants pay a lot of attention. They are fed, watered, loosen the soil, remove weeds and faded buds.
Autumn will require:
- one dressing,
- water recharge irrigation,
Works in August
In the last month of summer, preparing peonies for winter is early. At this time, they are divided and transplanted to a new place. Until mid-August, plants form buds for the next year. In the second half of the month they can be transplanted.
Old bushes are more susceptible to freezing than young ones, so you should not postpone the transplant for many years. Shrub blooms 3-4 year after planting. At one place it can bloom up to 50 years, but it is better to dig it up at the age of ten and divide it. This will enhance flowering, heal the plant, make it more winter-hardy.
In August, the first (cosmetic) pruning is performed - yellowing leaves and dried buds are removed. At this time, it is still impossible to cut the stems under the root, so as not to interfere with the plant to prepare for wintering.
Autumn work on the preparation of peonies for the winter
October-November are suitable to prepare peonies for the winter. The most important autumn event is pruning.
Shrubs are cut off completely, until the last stalk. Both young and adult specimens need it. Knowledgeable gardeners immediately generously sprinkle cuts with ashes - this is at the same time potash supplementation for the winter, disinfection and a set of useful microelements.
If there is no ash, in September more green bushes are poured with a solution of any potash fertilizer, diluting it according to the instructions on the package. Potassium increases winter hardiness.
You need to choose the right time to trim. If the leaves are green, you should not remove them. Such plates perform a useful function. Under the action of sunlight, they produce nutrient compounds that are sent down to the roots and underground buds to help them survive the winter.
Plants can be easily cut when the leaves are brown and withered. This happens after the first freeze, when the temperature drops below zero.
There are different opinions on how low the stalks need to be cut during spring pruning. Some recommend that the pruner be sunk into the soil, so that no trace of the bush remains on its surface. Other gardeners are advised to be sure to leave the ponechki a few centimeters high.
Both methods have the right to exist. Leave penechki more convenient. In this case, during the autumn garden digging there is no risk of forgetting where the bush was growing. Parts of the stems are better left on the surface and to those who shelter their peonies for the winter - it will be easier to detect plants when the soil freezes and it is time to sprinkle the rhizomes with insulation.
The method of sheltering pions depends on where in the plot they are located. Between trees or near the fence, it is easier for the plants to winter to sleep - there is a lot of snow blowing there. But if the bushes are planted on high ground, blown by the winds, they will have to be further warmed.
Shelter peonies for the winter:
- Rake off some soil with your hand and see how deep the growth points lie.
- If they are located no deeper than 4-6 cm from the surface, the top of the pion should be powdered with dry soil, peat or compost.
- The thickness of the additional layer should be 10-15 cm. In this case, the peonies will not freeze in winter, even if the frost is very strong.
Древовидные пионы хорошо зимуют под укрытиями из лапника или агроволокна, сложенного в два слоя.
Спешить с утеплением древовидных и обычных сортов нельзя. Это нужно сделать, когда температура установится на отметке -5.