General information

Rules for the care of currants in the spring

Black, red and even white currants are quite popular crops in our latitudes, therefore, many summer residents are interested in currant care after winter. In this article we will talk about the nuances of pruning, feeding, watering and processing from the pests of these plants, and also dwell on the issue of protecting the bushes from possible spring frosts.

Features spring pruning currants

Pruning currant bush - one of the main conditions for its good fruiting. This procedure can be performed in autumn or early spring, before bud break. In the latter case, they say more about sanitary pruning, which provides for pruning of all the frozen tops during the winter (to healthy buds), broken and diseased branches. However, as for the dry parts of the plant, they can be cut off at any time of the year, as soon as you notice them. All collected branches, as well as old leaves, which are often under bushes from last year, must be burned, since it is in them that the pests overwinter, which are activated with the arrival of spring.

Watering and caring for the soil in the spring

Answering the question “How to care for a currant?” One cannot ignore the topic of watering, which, together with tillage, plays an important role in obtaining a good crop of currants. First of all, it is worth noting that both black and red and white currant are moisture-loving cultures, which is due to their biological characteristics. The lack of moisture in plants causes growth retardation, the grinding of berries and their subsequent shedding. In addition, dry conditions in the post-harvest period often lead to freezing of bushes in winter. It is especially important to irrigate during the most crucial phases of plant development: during the period of active growth, formation of ovaries, berry pouring and after harvesting, that is, mainly in spring.

The first time the currant is watered immediately after planting, at the rate of 5-6 liters of fluid per bush. Further, the most effective are considered to be groundwater and drip irrigation, which allow you to apply the liquid directly to the root system of plants. During one growing season, currants require from 3 to 5 waterings. Also, a similar procedure is carried out by injecting liquid into pre-made grooves or grooves, 10-15 cm deep. They are made around a bush, at a distance of 30-40 cm from it.

Do not forget about the methods of moisture conservation in the soil. So, spring care for black, red or white currants also provides for loosening, mulching the soil and cleaning it from weeds. The optimal frequency of loosening the soil around the bushes is considered once every 2-3 weeks, while avoiding the formation of crusts and weeds, as it dries the ground.

The active root system of the currant is placed in the upper loose and nutrient layers, therefore, in order not to damage the roots, the soil next to the bushes is loosened very carefully, without going more than 6-8 cm. From the bush a considerable distance, it is possible to loosen or dig through the bushes. depth up to 12 cm.

Moisture will be well preserved if the soil around the bush is mulched with organic material. (peat, grass, peat compost). In this case, it can be loosened much less.

Recently, synthetic materials have been increasingly used for mulching currant bushes: black opaque film, parchment, roofing material, plant protection paper, etc. This allows you to do without loosening throughout the summer, but with the arrival of autumn, it is better to remove the shelter, which will improve air exchange in the ground, apply the necessary fertilizers, or perform any other work.

Currant treatment in spring from pests and diseases

Like any other plant, the described bushes suffer from various diseases and attacks of pests, because of which it is very difficult to care for currants, in particular, in spring. The most dangerous pest is currant bud mite, the presence of which is evidenced by large overgrown buds, which look like small bright cabbages. With the arrival of spring, they are simply unable to open up, which is why they gradually die off, which affects the quantity of the crop. So, in one kidney there can be up to a thousand individuals of a pest and, having got out of their refuge, they quickly settle on the territory, with what they are helped by birds or wind.

If the bush does not have a lot of affected buds, then they can simply be pulled out and burned, but if the affected areas are too extensive, then such a currant bush is completely removed. There is a simple, environmentally friendly and effective way to combat currant kidney mite, which involves scalding the currant bushes with boiling water. Hot water will not cause any harm to the plant; on the contrary, by performing the procedure in early spring (before the buds wake up), you will help the plant to “wake up” after a winter holiday. Boiling water will destroy not only ticks, but also aphid larvae, fungi and other pests that have successfully survived the winter.

When caring for black currants in the spring, it is not uncommon use of chemical agents in the fight against the invasion of pests. However, in this case, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the recommended terms of spraying, since the growing season of the plant starts early, and the changes occur very quickly. To get rid of the above bud mite, currant bushes and the soil under them can be sprayed with a solution of Chlorofos or a mixture of colloidal sulfur and Karbofos, at a rate of 100 and 20 g per 10 liters of water. The treatment of plants with these preparations should also be carried out before the buds swell, because otherwise it will be very difficult to get rid of the tick.

If we are talking about powdery mildew, then “Fundazol” (15 ml of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water) or copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) will help to get rid of it, and it is necessary not only to sprinkle the bushes, but also water the beds, on which currant bushes grow.

On the tops of the shoots, the leaves often damage the aphids, due to which the leaf plates curl and frown. If no action is taken, it will completely destroy the bush. The presence of a pest can be determined by the appearance of many ants that feed on its secretions.

Before blooming buds on the bushes, you need to process the currant with Furanon or just scald the plant with boiling water. In the case when there are already leaves on the branches, but no inflorescences have yet appeared, “Intavir”, “Rovi-Chicken”, “Tanrek”, Bordeaux mixture or copper vitriol solution, at the rate of 100 g of substance 10 liters of water. Also “Karbofos” helps a lot.

Often care for currants in the spring (in particular in the country), is accompanied by the treatment of plants from anthracnose - fungal parasite, which appears small brown spots on the leaves of the bush. The process begins with the lower branches and gradually moves up. As in the previous cases, it is important to start timely treatment before the first leaves appear, however, if you notice the affected leaf plates too late, You can try to treat them with a solution of ash, Bordeaux mixture or 3% solution of iron sulphate (300 g per 10 l of water). Very often, these formulations still help to cope with the problem, only spraying is best done in the evening, repeating the treatment after half an hour.

How to fertilize currants in the spring, plant nutrition

Caring for currant spring, provides for plant nutrition, but most often this procedure is carried out in the second or third year after planting bushes. However, if your plants are forced to exist on depleted soils, then fertilizer applied to the planting pit when planting seedlings may not be enough. Moreover, not all blackcurrant seedlings are strong and completely healthy, which means that feeding them will be a very important component in the care of spring.

Strong green bushes always stand out against the background of their pale and weak relatives, so it will be easy for you to identify currants in need of a large number of useful trace elements. With the advent of spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied at the root of the plants, since they contribute to their better growth and development after the winter period.

The first root dressing can be carried out immediately after bud break on the branches. To do this, 30 g of ammonium nitrate should be diluted in a bucket of water and pour the resulting compound under a bush (a ten-liter bucket of ready-made feeding is needed for one bush). Repeated fertilization occurs during the period of care for currant bushes with berries tied to them. In this case, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil, which contain phosphorus and potassium (but not chloride), although you can also use organic matter prepared by yourself as an alternative to mineral elements. Ash and humic fertilizers are perfect for this role.

Some experienced gardeners often resort to foliar feeding. For example, when flowering currant, you can dilute 0.5 tsp of boric acid in 10 liters of warm water (up to 40 ° C) and spray the bushes with the resulting composition. This treatment will increase the rate of growth of shoots and increase the yield by 2-3 times. Also, during the spring care of the currant, at the time of the appearance of the first ovaries, they often prepare a mixture of 60 g of urea, 150 g of superphosphate and 10 liters of water, which is also sprayed with bushes. The shoots become very strong, and the tastes of future berries are significantly improved.

How to protect the currants from frost

In the middle zone, where we are with you, shedding currant ovaries can be called quite common, since despite the abundant flowering of the plant, in the first 10-15 days after its completion almost all ovaries may be under the shrub. The most characteristic reason for what is happening are spring frosts (matinees), which, even in April, complicate the care of currants. In our climatic zone, they end only closer to the end of May, but are not excluded until the tenth of June (that is, they can drop at the end of the currant flowering and during the formation of ovaries).

To protect the bushes from frost apply smoke and spraying. In the first case, for the procedure you need cropped raspberry branches and strawberry leaves, although last year’s tops of potato, straw manure and straw are also a good fit. The prepared material is piled up in heaps, the length and width of which should reach 0.8 meters, and height - 0.7 meters. They are placed in one line at a distance of 3-4 meters from each other, and from the side of the section from which early in the morning , in the windless air will drag.

In addition to late spring frosts, the weather conditions have a great influence on the curvature of currant berries. For example, in cold and windy weather, in the process of flowering, the age of insects is very difficult, which means that the plant will be poorly pollinated. At the same time, when the weather is hot and too dry, the stigmas of the pistils dry up, and the period of possible pollination of flowers is significantly shortened. Therefore, it is desirable to personally create in the garden optimal conditions for normal pollination of bushes:plant only plants in protected areas, select varieties in accordance with the climatic region, humidify the air and soil in hot weather, and breed bees.

Some summer residents consider currants to be a rather unpretentious plant, but caring for them in the spring can raise certain questions, when answering which will be useful advice from experienced gardeners. Only with sufficient information and the implementation of all the above recommendations, you will be able to get a bountiful harvest of excellent berries.

The importance of timely care

So, in order to have a good crop of currants, the gardener will have to make a lot of effort. At the same time, trimming bushes is an integral part of care. Such an event stimulates the rapid growth of shoots in the underground part of the bush.

Such processes are also called root, substitution shoots or zero. After pruning, growth and branching of annual shoots, which grow on perennial branches, increases markedly. Also pruning prevents thickening of the bush, and because of this, the size of the berries also increase.

Timely pruning of currant branches ensures the growth of fruit bearing wood (new root shoots are formed). Therefore, we can say with confidence that the annual spring pruning of currant shoots is necessary not only for the correct formation of the shrub - this procedure guarantees a good harvest.

Full care for currants in the spring

Before blooming buds, in early spring, currant care should begin. To do this, the ground around the bushes should be cleaned with a rake, garbage, foliage, last year’s mulch and burned, since various harmful insects and their larvae can be found in the upper loose soil layer.

The soil in the tree should be loosened well, remove the first weeds.

In order to retain moisture, tree trunks should be mulched with humus, mowed grass, compost, rotted manure. Such an agrotechnical technique eliminates the need for frequent watering and loosening of the soil.

To care for a currant is, first of all, to ensure regular watering of the plant.

At the same time, it is important to remember:

  1. Watering should be once a week.
  2. For one bush will require no more than three liters of water. If you overdo it, then it is fraught with rotting of the root system.
  3. For irrigation, it is best to use water at room temperature, preferably separated.
  4. It is recommended to water in the evening so that the moisture can penetrate into the region of the root system overnight.
  5. Do not pour water directly into the center of the bush. Watering is better to do around the perimeter of the crown.
  6. Stop watering is possible only if the ovary has grown and began to be painted. At such a moment, watering is harmful, because the berries can crack from the excess water directly on the bushes.

Caring for a circle

In the spring, it is very important to regularly carry out weeding, as well as mulching the soil. Currant loves drained soil, and this requires regular loosening with the help of deep weeding.

Also, the gardener can use a shovel to dig the soil 15-20 cm deep. Loosen the soil as carefully as possible so as not to accidentally damage the root system of the plant.

Extra care

Every gardener knows: to obtain a generous harvest, it is necessary to contribute to a good pollination of the bushes with bees, bumblebees and other insects. How can this be done in practice?

One of the tips of experienced gardeners is to drench the currant bushes with honey or sweetened water to bait pollinating bees. This simple technique significantly increases the amount of the crop. In addition, they recommend planting shrubs near the bee hive.

In order not to break the currant crown, it is necessary to use a special stand. It can easily be made of reinforcement and rods. Another option: near the bush at a depth of 50 centimeters, hammer in a wooden peg and use a special currant crown to attach it to a special thread.

So, care for currants is especially necessary in the spring. From that, how correctly the gardener cares for a currant in the spring, its productivity directly depends.

Currant - plant description

Perennial shrub from the gooseberry family. The height of the bushes to 2 meters with fluffy pale green shoots that change color with age to brown.

The root system is fibrous, extending to a depth of 20-40 cm.

Currant bush consists of branches of different ages, located at different levels, thanks to which currants bear fruit for 12-15 years.

In spring, at a temperature of +5 degrees, buds swell, flowering appears at +11 +15 degrees, because of this, it is affected by spring frosts.

Most of the varieties of currants does not need pollination, also have frost resistance. Currant leaves are used in conservation (very fragrant), and brew tea from them.

Berries have a sweet and sour taste, with a strong aroma, rich in vitamins and microelements. The high content of vitamin C makes currant berries very useful, a good tool for the prevention of diseases.

Planting currants

When to plant cuttings of black currant

Currant breeds cuttings, layering, dividing the bush. Young green cuttings take root and begin to grow at any time during the growing season of the plant.

How to plant seedlings in the fall

It is best to plant black currants in the fall, in early October. Before the onset of spring, the seedlings will take root and will quickly grow.

Currant suitable fertile soil, best light loam with weakly alkaline reaction. Planting seedlings is better in lighted areas, if the shading of the berries are not sweet and the amount of the harvest is reduced.

Before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of 20-22 cm and fertilizers are applied: 2-4 kg of organic, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of sulfuric acid potassium per 1 m 2 of the site.

Яма для посадки диаметром 50 см и глубиной до 40 см, расстояние между кустами 1,5 метра. Налить в ямку пол ведра воды, посадить саженец, чтобы корневая шейка была на глубине 5 см, расправить корешки. Немного присыпаем корни землей, наливаем пол ведра воды и засыпаем яму до верха.

Почву сверху замульчировать перегноем или торфом. Побеги саженцев обрежьте на высоте 10-15 см от земли, оставив только по 4-5 почек.

Как ухаживать за черной смородиной

Уход за растениями весной no difficulty and is as follows:

- remove tick-borne kidneys,

- dig around the bushes and grind the soil with humus or manure around the bushes,

- to ensure adequate watering during growth and flowering,

- remove weeds and loosen the soil under the plants to a depth of 6 cm, 2-3 times a week. If the soil around the bush is mulched, loosening is not required,

- after the winter, to carry out sanitary pruning currants,

- in the early spring to treat the bushes from pests and diseases,

- make nitrogen fertilizers,

- during the flowering period, observe and inspect the flowers. In the case of terry inflorescences, remove them to avoid spreading to other bushes.

Currant care in summer

Watering plays an important role in the care of the currants in the hot summer. Watch also for cleanliness between bushes, remove weeds on time. Feed fertilizer with organic fertilizer, together with watering. Inspect the bushes all the time, and take action when identifying pests or diseases, but do not treat chemicals with chemicals for three weeks before the berries ripen, manage with folk remedies. When they begin to sing the berries they need to be picked one by one and selectively - only ripe as they ripen.

Care for currants in the fall

After harvesting, be sure to water the currants, you also need to loosen the soil. In the second half of September to make fertilization: organic and mineral, also spend forming pruning currant bushes. In the autumn you need to do breeding and seeding currants. For the winter, they carry out preventive treatment against pests and diseases.

Pest and disease treatment

In early spring, even before the kidneys swell, treat with 1% solution of malathion, copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. Soil also need to handle. In the fall, remove all fallen leaves from the plot with currants, the pests will not be bred in them. The same preparations to carry out preventive treatment in the fall.

After a snowy winter, the plants do not need abundant watering. Otherwise, if the snow was not enough, you need to water regularly. During the period of growth, formation of ovaries and ripening berries, water the plants with warm water every 5 days. Water consumption is about 20-30 liters per 1 m 2 plot, the soil should get wet to a depth of up to 40 cm. In the case of a dry autumn, pour plenty of currants for the winter.

New bushes planted this year have enough fertilizer for growth and development, but when they have 2 or more years to fertilize regularly. In the spring, apply nitrogen fertilizers. Two-year plants: 40-50 g of urea, 4 years old and more will be enough 20 g.

In the fall, add 4-6 kg of organic fertilizer for each bush - manure, compost, chicken manure. To organic, add 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate.

Experts recommend that in the summer (June-July) foliar dressing be carried out three times with the following solution: dilute 3 g of boric acid, 35 g of copper sulphate, 5 g of potassium permanganate separately, mix everything with 10 liters of water. After sunset or a cloudy day sprinkle the bushes.

When and how to cut currants

Spring Currant Trimming - spend to achieve good yields, remove unnecessary and weak shoots, so the plant does not expend power on them. Last year's growths on branches 4-5 years bring the most ovaries. Branches over 6 years old are subject to pruning. Dried and damaged branches are cut off. In the spring, before bud breaks, shoots of frozen and broken branches are shortened, and the main pruning is carried out in the fall, after the leaves fall.

Pruning in the fall - escape of the first year is cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil level. Biennial bushes free from zero shoots, leaving 3-5 strong branches. 3 and 4 year old bushes are exempt from zero shoots, leaving 3-6 of the most developed. Try to cut underdeveloped and weak shoots in the middle of the bushes. On last year's branches, the tops are cut, 3–4-year-old branches leave 3–4 buds on each branch, the rest is cut. Branches older than 6 years cleaned completely. The trimming scheme is shown.

Currant propagation

Black currants are propagated by lignified or green cuttings.

This is the most affordable and convenient way - planting material is at any time of the year. It is possible to plant cuttings for rooting from spring to autumn. The length of cut cuttings is about 20 cm and 8-10 mm thick (the middle of one-year shoots suitable for growing from a root or 3-year branches is suitable), preferably cut from healthy plants.

When cutting the cuttings, the upper cut is made above the kidney at a distance of 1 cm with a sharp shear, at the bottom a cut under the lower kidney.

Most often planting cuttings carried out in the spring, but it is better to plant cuttings in the fall, when the buds enter into a dormant period: for black currants this is the middle of September - the beginning of October.

Cuttings are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm between plants and 40 between rows, this makes it possible to care for currants in summer and conveniently dig for planting in a permanent place. It is better to soil the soil with humus 3-5 cm, so you will prevent the soil from drying out. Also a good option would be to use a film in which holes for cuttings are pre-made. Watering is needed moderate, do not let the soil dry out. In the summer, do not forget to feed the beds with mullein and weed weeds.

If the bushes have time to form by the fall they can be transplanted to a permanent place, if not leave for another season.

Green cuttings rooted only in the greenhouse. The length of the cutting 5-10 cm with three green sheets. The cuttings are placed in water to form roots and, after 2 weeks, are transplanted into a light soil mixture from peat. For the first 3 weeks, spray the cuttings with water for a better survival rate. After 1 month, the film can be removed, if the leaves remain green and elastic, the film is removed completely.

Fight against diseases and pests of black currant

List of common diseases of currants:

-- septoria - white spot, angular or round spots on the leaves, first brown, then light with a dark border,
-- anthracnose - small spots with small brown tubercles, the leaves dry and fall from the lower branches,
-- double face - you can see the ugly flowers of a lilac shade, and the leaves on the young shoots become dark, the currants no longer bear fruit,
-- gray rot - brown spots on currant leaves,
-- powdery mildew - white loose coating on berries and leaves, which turns into a brown film,
-- striped mosaic - you can see a yellow pattern on the leaves around the main veins,
-- columnar rust - appears on the leaves: small yellow specks on the upper side, growths on the lower side with spores of yellow color in the form of hairs.

Treatment may not always give results - viral diseases are not treated. The best prevention of proper care for the currants throughout the season and responding to the slightest manifestations of disease. For prevention, spray the soil and black currant bushes with solutions of Bordeaux liquid, karbofos or copper sulfate in early spring before the buds swell.

Currant pests, species that can be found often:

-- pale-footed sawfly - its caterpillars dine on the leaves, leaving only the veins,
-- biennial moth - damage buds and berries,
-- mothfire - berries that are damaged ripen ahead of time,
-- shoot aphid - causes damage to the leaves, feeding on juice. The leaves curl, dry, shoots stop growing, bend,
-- kidney mite - damages the kidneys, climbing in them for the winter and eating from the inside,
-- spider mite - the leaves have become marble in color, dry and fall,
-- gall midges - Eaten from the inside of the shoots of currants, which leads to their death. Flower gall midges damage buds, after that they fall off,
-- fruit sawfly - causes damage to the berries of black currant, the berries take a faceted shape.

Each type of pest is combated as it appears on the bushes. Means for processing can be folk, or chemicals - decide what to choose. But having carried out prevention in the early spring, when all the snow had not yet descended (the kidneys were still at rest), pour currant bushes from the watering can with boiling water. Thus, you will destroy the pests on the branches and in the ground under the bushes. After the snow melts hold the treatment of soil and bushes Bordeaux liquid or copper sulphate.

Currant Varieties

Winter-hardy varieties suitable for cultivation in the northern areas - Kent Goliath, Leah is fertile, Neapolitan.

It is also possible, by maturation, to be divided into early, middle and late varieties.

Most popular varieties:

-- Belarusian sweet - early, samoplodny variety with large berries, resistant to kidney ticks and anthracnose,
-- Premiere - an early variety with large berries of dessert taste. High yield. Tick ​​resistant,
-- Moscow - early variety, winter-hardy, self-fruited with large berries and average yield,
-- Boscopic giant - medium early variety with large sweet-sour berries,
-- Seaside champion - an early variety with powerful bushes, wrinkled leaves and large round fruits on long tassels. Possess winter hardiness and high productivity,
-- Enchantress - The average term of ripening berries, a low bush with large shiny fruits. High yield, resistant to pests and diseases,
-- Treasure - an average grade with a low bush and tasty, large berries. High-yielding variety. Medium resistant to powdery mildew and kidney mite,
-- Oryol Serenade - medium late variety with medium berries, high yield. Resistant to diseases and pests
-- Gross - Late cultivar with bush height above average. Large berries of 5 g in weight, high yield. Resistant to fungal diseases and moderately resistant to ticks,
-- Kent - late cultivar with low sprawling shrubs and large leaves. Berries are large, sour taste, high yield.

This is a small part of the listed varieties of black currant from the variety, you make a choice based on the weather conditions in your region.

Tillage

For air to penetrate the soil and retain moisture in it, it is necessary to gnaw the ground under the bushes, remove weeds and last year’s leaf. This reduces the accumulation of pests, viruses under the bushes. Currants also significantly need moisture when pouring berries. If the soil is light, then it is enough to hold a shallow loosening of 6-8 cm under the crown, in order not to damage the shallow roots. Around the bush can dig up the ground at 10-15 cm.

Mulching under the bushes

Of course, when digging, damage to small roots cannot be avoided, but the lack of air during soil compaction will also adversely affect the growth of currants. Therefore, sometimes gardeners, instead of digging, use soil mulching under the bushes with plant residues, humus, compost, straw, and manure with a layer of at least 10 cm.

Plant nutrition

If you planted the ground well when planting a currant or gooseberry, then for the next 4-5 years you should not worry about feeding these bushes with phosphorus and potassium. But the plants need to provide nitrogen, starting from the third year (15-20 g / m 2 of urea).

Gooseberry, currant need complex fertilizer, and are very responsive to feeding. It is necessary once every three years to make 6-8 kg of organic matter under the bush, and also annually in the spring a nitroammoosku or ammophoska of 20-25 g / m 2. If the harvest is high, then the plants should be fed even during the formation of ovaries with phosphorus and potassium.

Remember that overfeeding bushes with nitrogen can provoke the development of diseases. Here the principle works: it is better not to feed than to feed.

spring currant pruning

Preparing for the winter currant bushes

Currant - cold-resistant culture. It withstands winters with little snow at minus 25. And with this it attracts "lazy" gardeners. But if the temperature drops further, then the shoots will freeze and die. And, as a result, the yield will fall. There are cases when the bushes die and are no longer restored.

The culture will endure cold, long winters and frosts below minus 50 with proper care. First of all, the branches need to bend down to the ground thoroughly. So they will be securely wrapped with snow that warms them, and hidden from drafts. You can tilt the branches to the ground in different ways:

It is impossible to place all the branches under the same cargo. It is better to distribute evenly several bricks over the surface.

So they maintain the temperature to minus 35 degrees. But if the winter is snowless and the ground freezes, the plant may die.

You can not wrap polyethylene, because there must be natural aeration.

Tip # 1. It is necessary to open branches in early spring. Under the insulation they should not be long. A long period of isolation does not allow the stem to develop, to form to the kidneys. Consequently, you will get a smaller crop.

How to start spring work on the care of currants

It is during the spring period that the bushes care work is the most labor-intensive and their volume is large, because in this period the future harvest is laid. The traditional events that are held in the spring, when the snow has melted, and the soil is almost dry, are:

    Thinning bushes. Old branches are cut, which age reaches 4 years. They no longer yield and, in fact, are ballast. Maximum fruiting can be observed on the branches up to 3 years of age.

Tip # 2. Loosen the soil regularly for access to the roots of the air, but this should be done very carefully. The root system lies shallow, it can be easily damaged.

Currant bushes against diseases

Who among the inhabitants of the garden harms the fruit shrubs the most?

  • bud mite: swollen buds are visible on the shoots
  • currant aphid: eats sap of leaves on the tops of the shoots,
  • currant goldfish: causes the drying of the delicate apical leaves and the shoot may die completely,
  • terry: develops slowly and the bush can not bear fruit at all,
  • anthracnose: affects the leaves, which are visible swellings,
  • powdery mildew: if the disease starts, the bush will die.

You can fight all summer, but it is not always effective. Unfortunately, in the spring it is difficult to notice the majority of diseases, and also pests. But there is a popular, simple and very effective method for processing currants in the spring. This treatment boiling water. Since the method is widely distributed, it is worthwhile to dwell on the main stages of the work.

  1. Treatment is carried out in early spring before the buds swell, otherwise they can be damaged.
  2. See which bushes need watering, and prepare enough boiling water.
  3. The roots must be covered with a non-wetting material so as not to damage the boiling water.
  4. Processing should be carried out immediately as soon as the water boils.
  5. Watering can metal, do not pour boiling water into plastic containers.
  6. To make the treatment more efficient, you can dilute the water with salt or potassium permanganate
  7. Shoots and branches evenly poured boiling water, but not for long, otherwise the plant can be burned.

Use of chemicals

Before the buds have dissolved, it is possible to use chemicals to fight. Furanon is processed if it has already been noticed by the aphids in spring (before the first buds bloom). Before blooming inflorescences, you can apply Tanrek (gardeners' comments about Tanrek), Bordeaux mixture or karbofos. To protect against powdery mildew, the ground and the bushes themselves are sprayed with a foundation, and copper sulfate is also used.

For fungal diseases Bordeaux mixture or ash solution is irreplaceable. Before using a chemical product, carefully read the instructions and use personal protection measures. It is better to use natural methods of struggle as more environmentally friendly and safe: a solution of urea, decoction of pine needles, black pepper, tobacco powder, smoke and other means.

Pruning currant bushes in early spring

After planting black currant can already do the first pruning of the bush. Sapling pruned strongly enough, leaving a few twigs with developed buds. During the year, the plant can no longer touch. A one-year-old plant leaves three zero branches growing from the roots. These are the strongest branches from which a bush will later be formed. Remove all weak branches immediately.

We remove the weak, one-year-old shoots for the third year. The remaining shoots are reduced by 1/3 part. Such pruning is subsequently carried out every year. Do not forget to remove the sick and broken branches.

On the 6th year the bush is considered formed. We remove 4-5-year-old branches that do not grow and no longer bear fruit. If it seems that the bush becomes quite rare, then leave more young branches. According to this scheme, pruning is carried out in the future. Thus, the bush is formed, and the currant fruits well, because the main crop is formed on young shoots.

Basic care when pruning

  • Trimming is carried out very early, as soon as the snow melted. At a later time, active sap flow begins in the branches and the bush will weaken during pruning. If you missed the right moment, then prune in the fall or next spring.
  • Before carrying out this method, it is necessary to remove with a root that young growth, which is located at a distance from the bush. Remove old, diseased, damaged, twisted branches.
  • Young shoots must also be cut. Речь идет о корневой поросли, из которой стоит оставить 5-7 наиболее сильных веточек. В ходе работы формируйте куст. Шарообразная форма будет хорошо смотреться, а подрезка на 1/3 верхних веточек поможет ему лучше куститься. Соответственно, и урожайность повысится.

Обрезка необходима: с ее помощью формируется куст, растение регулярно обновляется. If you get used to carry out this procedure annually, then it will no longer cause you any problems and difficulties. Over the years, skills will be improved, the speed of work will increase.

Tip # 4. Without pruning berries may be more, but they will be smaller and of lower quality. Try using this method to adjust the balance of quality and quantity of berries.

Tips for novice gardeners

We always listen more to the opinion of gardeners than to literary sources. After all, experience is the most important thing in any business.

The techniques used in the processing of currants in the spring - the most important. They are the pledge of the future harvest. And if in the summer there are not so many works, then in spring the bush needs to be treated necessarily. Good luck to you in this difficult matter!

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