Luxurious, spectacular and bright fuchsia - a real "precious decoration" for the home or garden. The plant was bred more than 3000 years ago, later many hybrid varieties were created for growing in greenhouses.
The bush grows in the ampel form or in the form of a bush. And each variety has its own requirements for care and lighting.
Next, tell you what is the peculiarities of care for fuchsia in the garden. And also, consider in detail the possible diseases of this flower.
How to grow: features of the procedure
The biological description of the plant is a compact small tree on which there are reddish flexible shoots, small lanceolate leaves, numerous inflorescences of different shapes and colors. For cultivation in the garden often take varieties with large and straight shoots.
Each type of fuchsia puts forward its own requirements for care and lighting, but a common feature is the fear of direct sunlight. Planted bushes need to darkened areas. The exception is the Aloha and Coral varieties, which retain the luxurious color even under the scorching sun, but require careful maintenance. Ampel bushes are preferable to grow in a potted garden or in a flowerpot.
Beautiful fuchsia neighbors in the garden - begonia, balsam or ivy.
When selecting a place for a plant, it is necessary to give preference to places that are well lit in the morning and evening, and are shaded during the day. Planting fuchsia in open ground should be no earlier than May. For the bush is characterized by rapid rooting and strengthening - the plant will bloom in 2-3 weeks after planting. The plant does not tolerate cold. For long-term cultivation of fuchsia is better to grow in pots, transferring to the street at a warm temperature.
Composition of soil and fertilizers
Sow the seeds you need in a light and nutritious land. You can buy a ready-made soil mixture or make it yourself from turf land, peat and sand (3: 2: 1 ratio). It is advisable to disinfect the soil - hold it in the refrigerator or in the cold, pour boiling water over it. In such a soil mixture planted seeds for further transplanting seedlings to the garden plot.
To plant seedlings in the garden should be in a fertile land with a neutral reaction. Improve the quality of the soil on the site of the top layer of a mixture of peat, perlite and sand. It is also advisable to add clay - it will contribute to the retention of nutrients.
The preferred soil composition in the garden should include:
- turf mix or leaf ground,
- humus and compost,
Among the preferred fertilizers are biological supplements. It is allowed to make after the plant has got accustomed and released the full-fledged foliage. For these purposes, they take liquid fertilizers based on humus, top dressing with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc. Soil replenishment should be alternated with surface spraying of leaves against pests (with a weak solution of Previkur, potassium permanganate).
Preparation and germination
The main condition for high-quality germination is the purchase of fresh seeds of proven producers. To plant seeds in the soil should be in February-March, then the shoots can be planted in open ground in mid-May. Capacity for fuchsia should be spacious. Suitable packaging is a transparent container.
At the bottom of the tank should be made holes for drainage. Next, make a layer of expanded clay or pebbles - seedlings will not die from stagnant water. Then you need to pour the soil mixture, seal it, leave 2-3 cm to the edge of the tank. To prevent the formation of mold, the ground should be sprayed on top with potassium permanganate from a spray bottle.
To deepen a seed by a finger on 3-5 cm. To cover the container with cellophane or a cover, it is necessary to leave a place for air receipt. Put on a warm window sill. The optimum temperature is no higher than 22 degrees. After the appearance of the first shoots, 1 time in 2 days drip water on it, daily - spray air with water from a spray bottle.
How to care?
Among the basic rules - the correct watering of seedlings and adult plants. Fuchsia requires abundant, but moderate watering. It is preferable to carry out 1-2 times a week. Bring water in the morning time of the day. Between watering be sure to spray the leaves of the spray, as the plant loves moisture. If the bud wilted, it should be cut in a timely manner.
There are some features of care. In the garden, the “precious beauty” is assigned a place protected from the sun and drafts. If all the conditions are met, the plant will be transformed and delight with color: the color will become juicier, the lush green will grow, the bush will harden.
The optimum temperature when grown in the open air - 21-23 ° (figure should not be higher even in summer). If the mark of the thermometer grows to 26-28, fuchsia drops the leaves and begins to wither.
The basic rules of care - the choice of the right place, watering and humidity. If the florist makes mistakes, this is indicated by the following signs:
- The leaves fall, and the flowers wither - fuchsia does not receive enough moisture.
- The whole bush withers - there is an excess of moisture in the soil, the roots begin to rot.
- Brown spots appear on the foliage - regulation of the frequency of watering is required, as the soil becomes swamped.
Caring for a plant involves the mandatory application of organic fertilizers. - mullein or humus of weak concentration, ash. During the formation of buds and during the flowering period, the application of instant feedings is required.
Possible diseases: general information
The advantage of the plant is weak susceptibility to disease. Most often on the bush may appear signs of powdery mildew. Fundazol will help to cope with the disease (look at the dosage on the package). Other possible problems are gray or black rot. The affected part of the bush becomes watery, a whitish plaque forms on the surface of the foliage. The fight against diseases consists in the timely removal of dead parts and the treatment with disinfectant chemicals.
Fuchsia bush can affect pests - aphid, spider mites, whitefly. Symptoms of infestation by aphids are pale color and foliage twisting, curvature of the stems, non-opening of the buds. Killing the leaves with alcohol and subsequent spraying with any insecticide drug will kill the pest.
If the humidity is low, fuchsia becomes infected with a spider mite. Symptoms - specks and points on the leaves, their discoloration and subsequent shedding. Pest control is also about insecticide treatment.
Fuchsia - a beautiful flower, which is mainly grown in pots, vases and decorative containers. When growing in the garden, it is important to adhere to special rules of care. To sow the seeds in the tank should be in February, and to plant seedlings in open ground - in May. For a plant, soil fertility indicators and moderate humidity are important. Recognize the first signs of fuchsia in the garden can be on the leaves.
Fuchsia belongs to perennials, its genus includes more than a hundred species. Previously, its popularity was not so high, but with the advent of hybrids, which have gained the ability to multiply with the help of seeds and bloom in the first year of cultivation, the situation has radically changed. The plant has a long flowering period, which makes it possible to grow it as an letnik. Fuchsia in the garden continues to be perennial, despite the appearance of various modifications of the variety.
The plant has a fibrous root, green or reddish leaves. In form, they resemble an oval with pointed serrated edges. Fuchsia in the garden, the cultivation and care of which are described in this article, cannot fail to conquer with its flexible twigs, on which flowers are located on long pedicels.
The color range of colors is represented by pink and purple hues in various tones. Sometimes in one flower several tones can be combined at the same time - it depends on the variety. The fruits of this plant are edible berries.
Fuchsia in the garden, the cultivation and care of which are described in this article, can be represented by hybrid species. They are characterized by the formation of upright or ampelous bushes with large bright colors. Their distinctive feature is that the cups and flower petals have different colors. In this form, there are quite a lot of varietal groups.
Fuchsia, cultivation and care in the garden for which they have some features, can be represented by a rather rare species: three leaf. It is a shrub up to 50 cm in height, has a rhizome and differs in reddish-green foliage. Her inflorescences are short, formed from bright coral flowers. This variety is very hardy, therefore suitable for successful cultivation in open field.
The plant can be classified due to a variety of colors of flowers. Fuchsia in the garden, cultivation and care (photo - above) which is described in this article, is also represented by winter-hardy varieties. They can winter in open ground even without special shelter.
Features of growing and care
Fuchsia in the garden, cultivation and care, the reproduction of which is described in this article, is generally a thermophilic plant. An exception can be only separately bred hybrids exhibiting comparative cold resistance. Windless and well-lit corners of your garden can be an ideal way to grow it. Light shading may be beneficial.
Fuchsia in the garden may well grow in the open field. There it can be landed in early May. In this case, a very important point is that the root neck should not be deepened when the plant is planted. If rooting is successful, after a couple of weeks your pet can please you with its bloom.
Fuchsia in the garden, the cultivation and care of which are described in this article, can grow in a pot. For this option, it is better to take a plant a couple of years old and with a well-developed root system. In this case, the pot can be both buried and just put in the recess.
Fuchsia in the garden, cultivation and care in the winter for which have specific features, should not remain for a cold period in open ground. That is why it is impractical to completely transfer their root system to the soil. Approximately at the end of autumn the plant is sent to winter in the room.
Choosing a landing site
Fuchsia in the garden, the cultivation and care of which are described in this article, is a seasonal plant. Her flowering period is from early spring to autumn. In order to choose the right place for your pet, you should consider the main factors affecting its livelihoods: light, temperature and humidity. Lighting should be diffused. This plant responds very well to moderate temperatures and normal humidity.
Fuchsia, depending on the variety, may have certain cultivation features, but more often it prefers direct sunlight in the morning, but it is necessary to create artificial shading from lunch until evening, so that the plant does not burn. Only a few varieties love sunbathing and are able to tolerate them painlessly. Basically it is a plant with a bright color of flowers.
Fuchsia in the garden, the cultivation and care of which are described in this article, requires moderate summer temperatures, which average 16-22 degrees. If the temperature regime is lower, then the plant may have a period of rest, and the buds will not form. An increase in temperature may be the cause of flower buds and illness of your pet. If it is not possible to control the temperature, then the humidity level should be increased.
Fuchsia is a tropical plant, so it is very fond of various water treatments. Spraying is very beneficial for her, especially after a hot summer day.
Fuchsia to the soil is not demanding, however, preference is given to light and fertile soil with neutral acidity. To improve its structure, you can make a little high peat, sand and perlite. Adding clay is beneficial because it retains nutrients in the soil and prevents them from being washed out. Adult plants are shown soil with the addition of sod, compost, humus, soil with leaves, peat, etc.
The soil should keep constant humidity or strive for it. In order to comply with this condition, you do not need to wait until the top layer is completely dry; you should water the plant regularly. If watering is insufficient, then fuchsia can prematurely shed leaves and buds. However, overmoistening can lead to very negative consequences, so you should be as rational and careful as possible.
Forming and trimming
To form a fuchsia bush should begin with the cutting. This plant for molding is very plastic and responds favorably to it. The shape of the bush can be given any kind, everything depends only on your imagination. However, the important thing is that long pinching can significantly slow down flowering, so in this case it is important not to overdo it. The procedure can be continued after the first flowering of fuchsia.
As for pruning, it is best carried out at the end of the growing season. At this time, removed all the branches of flowering, located at a height of 2 cm from the sleeping buds. The final molding of the crown is carried out around January.
Fuchsia ampelnaya in the garden: the cultivation and care
Ampel varieties of fuchsias are most suitable for growing them in hanging baskets. However, this does not stop some gardeners before planting them on the beds. This is a very ambiguous decision, which some consider to be original, and others to be unacceptable.
Amplone fuchsia on the requirements for the choice of place of growth and care is very similar to ordinary fuchsias. However, she feels best in a wire basket filled with peat moss. When choosing the plant itself, it is better to give preference to those whose roots are good, but not too developed.
Wintering fuchsia directly in the garden
Contrary to popular belief, some varieties of fuchsia are capable of wintering in open ground. Such is the Magellanic fuchsia. She can be covered with spruce leaves, and she will perfectly feel under the snow. Other species require preparatory activities before heading for the winter.
Before the onset of stable cold weather, fuchsia should be cut off at ground level and sprinkled with a layer of earth at least 20 cm. After that, cover with spruce leaves and provide insulation from excess moisture. Open the plant should be around mid-May. After such wintering, fuchsia blooms around August.
Gardeners practice such a method as the annual rooting of new cuttings. The plant itself is not left in autumn.
Features of this race
This plant may have the appearance of a shrub, tree, flower with direct-flow and wilting stems. Depending on this, the plant can be grown at home in a pot or in the garden. Fuchsia can be seen ampel form or in a pot.
When planting fuchsia should:
- carefully choose a place protected from sunlight,
- do not allow his hypothermia,
- monitor soil moisture.
The frequency of watering garden fuchsia completely depends on the humidity of the air and weather conditions. The plant must be watered at least once a week.
The best temperature for fuchsia is 20-24 degrees in summer. In winter, 5-10 degrees. Fuchsia does not tolerate cold in the winter period of time it needs to be transplanted from a flower bed to a pot and put into a room. If this is not done, the plant will not survive the wintering.
Another feature of the cultivation of this flower in the garden is a poor neighborhood with other plants. If you plant fuchsia closer than 40 centimeters from another plant, then most likely one of them will die. The only exception will be trees and bushes, next to them you can plant fuchsia.
The easiest way to grow is to plant a fuchsia in a pot or hanging basket, which will weigh on the veranda. This type of planting is not so problematic, because in case of frost, the flower can simply be brought into the house and once again not replanted. For experienced gardeners it is not difficult to plant a plant in a flower bed, but in this case you need to think carefully about the place to plant.
It doesn’t matter where the garden will have a flower in a basket or flowerbed, the composition of the soil and fertilizers is of great importance. Before planting, you must make a sufficient amount of humus and phosphate fertilizers.
For fuchsia, the type of fertilizer can be divided into growth phases:
- Young plants need complex fertilizer, which contains a large amount of nitrogen. This component of fertilizer helps to accelerate the growth of the plant and its landscaping.
- Подросшему цветку лучше всего подойдут удобрения с большим содержанием калия и фосфора, которые помогут растению заложить большое количество бутонов для цветения.
Хорошим вариантом для удобрения будет, если чередовать минеральное с органическим. При этом следует помнить, что качественные удобрения повышают декоративные свойства растения.
Не следует удобрять растение 2-3 недели после пересаживания.
This plant has several breeding methods, including:
- Seed propagation: In order to get seed fuchsia gardeners resort to artificial pollination. Gardeners like this kind of breeding, because by mixing several different varieties of plants you can get a completely new, not like the others. Collect the seeds to be in dry and warm weather, and after collecting the material must be dried.
- With the help of cuttings: reproduction in this way must be done in March. For this fit the cuttings with a length of 5 centimeters. Usually they are first put in water for rooting, after which, after three weeks, they are sown in a pot of fertilizer and sand.
- With the help of leaves: this method is one of the longest. For this species, choose stems with several leaves and gently tear them from the plant, then, without germinating the roots, place them in loose earth 1 centimeter deep and cover with a lid.
Each of the types of germination in its own interesting, but the most familiar is growing with cuttings. This method is most effective for use by experienced gardeners.
Material for germination seed method is obtained exclusively from mature flowers.
You can grow fuchsia in the garden, but for this you need to spend time and be prepared for the fact that the plant does not take root. The following rules should be remembered for the plant to stick to the flowerbed:
- For planting is used a plant that has, for some time growing in a pot. Do not use freshly germinated flowers, they can not settle down in the new soil.
- Place for planting should be chosen carefully, without direct sunlight and drafts.
- Near the selected place should not grow other flowers, then one of the plants may die.
- Planting fuchsia is necessary only in the pre-fertilized soil and remember to feed during the release of flowers.
Using such simple rules when planting a plant you can achieve a good result. Then the plant will grow and produce many new buds, while pleasing the gardener.
In addition to timely feeding plants should comply with the requirements of care:
- in especially dry time, you need to monitor the soil moisture and water the flower at least twice a week,
- monitor the condition of the plant so that it does not get sick,
- with the onset of cold weather you need to take care of transplanting plants in a pot.
If you follow the instructions for fertilizer and care for the flower, then he will definitely please his flowering in the near future. With good care, you can think about crossing species with seed breeding. Thus, it can turn out very beautiful flowerbed planted with fuchsia.
Garden fuchsia very often attracts pests, so you should be very careful about changes in foliage and shoots. The most frequent diseases in this plant are:
- The appearance of brown spots or rust indicates a disease of the flower. Seeing such leaves you need to remove them immediately so that the disease does not go on healthy leaves. After this, the flower can be processed using a Topaz-type preparation.
- Yellow leaves indicate Chlorosis. This is a disease that occurs as a result of a lack of magnesium and nitrogen. It can be cured with fertilizer and reduced watering.
- Leaf fallout can occur due to the whitefly, which feeds on the flower sap, after which the leaves turn yellow. It is possible to get rid of such pests by washing the plant with soap and using special preparations of the Aktara type.
- The spider mite pretends to be yellow-white bloom with dots on the back of the sheet. Treat plants for ticks by using "Fufanon."
This is impossible to predict, and it remains only to observe the state of the flower in order to prevent its death.
Fuchsia is a very beautiful flower that is suitable for a garden, both a novice and an experienced gardener. Growing it is quite simple relying on recommendations and instructions. Of course, flower in the pot requires less care and worries than the one that landed on a flower bed. But this should not become an obstacle for planting this plant, because of unusual beauty, flowering will decorate any garden.
Hybrid varieties for the street
The color of the “ballerina” colors pleases with a variety - from variegated light and blue monochrome tones to bright, from pale pink to lilac.
For garden design most often used varieties with large, strongly expanding straight shoots. They, undoubtedly, need careful leaving, but become prettier from year to year. All types of fuchsia have their own requirements for lighting, but most of them do not tolerate direct sunlight. Therefore, plant these plants better in shaded areas.
For solar zones and open areas suitable varieties such as Hawaiian Aloha and Coral. They bloom sumptuously even under the scorching sun, but require more stringent care.
Compact and ampelous bushes are best grown in pots in the garden. These species are short-lived and over time begin to grow upwards. Therefore, when growing them, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the plant, replacing periodically old lignified bushes with young ones. They can also be placed in the garden as a decorative group or decorate with them a balcony or terrace.
- Beacon. Bush 50-60 cm tall with medium-sized dark green toothed leaves. The flowers are bright red glossy.
- Gartenmeister Bonstedt. Bush, quite resistant to sunlight. Differs in salmon-orange flowers. Leaves - medium-sized, green.
- Koralle. Upright plant with vigorous shoots and early, abundant and fairly long flowering. Leaves - large, green. Flowers - medium, salmon-orange shade.
- Cliantha. Srednerosly bush plant that grows up to 30-35 cm in height. It has medium-sized dark green leaves and lilac terry flowers of medium size.
- Comet. Srednerosly bush of American origin. Differs in rich green leaves and rather large pink-red terry flowers with a purple skirt.
- Fey. Free-flowing medium-medium variety with medium-sized green leaves. It blooms white with green trim flowers dressed in blue skirts.
- Granada. A semi-blooming, flowering plant. Foliage - large, light green with reddish streaks. Flowers - large, rich red color.
- Icicle. Ampelny strong-growing and fast-growing variety with light green leaves. Blooms large double white flowers.
- Margarita. Half-light, weakly branching variety, characterized by long flowering. Leaves - dense, green. Blooms with large terry flowers of cream shade.
- Queen. Srednerosly form in height of 45-50 cm. Foliage - glossy, dark green, with notches at the edges. Flowers - large, terry, white with a red skirt.
- Supersport. Bush srednerosly grade, no more than 35 cm high. Differs in large dense double-rich red flowers with a lilac skirt.
Planting seedlingsIn open ground fuchsia planted in the spring or early summer. Approximately in 15-20 days the plant is well acclimatized, and under condition of observance of all the rules of care it will well grow. When planting you need to make sure that the root neck is not dredged more than 20 cm.
Many growers believe that it is not at all necessary to replant the plant directly into the ground, but rather to bury it in the soil directly in the pot. In this way, frequent watering can be avoided and in the fall it will be easier to dig it up for storage indoors.
As already noted, fuchsias do not like the scorching rays, but they like the morning sun. However, this plant requires some watering and care.
Maintaining a sufficient level of moisture is an important condition when caring for fuchsia. The soil should be constantly wet, but bogging should be avoided (the ground must contain drainage).
Excessive moistening displaces oxygen from the soil and thereby causes rotting of the roots and the subsequent death of the plant. If the soil is too dry, the ballerina can lose foliage. Therefore, it is necessary to follow the foliage - as soon as it wilted, the plant should be watered.
Fuchsia is watered in the morning (so that the moisture is well absorbed by the roots, and not evaporated), trying to use the settled water, and in the evening arrange a warm shower for the plant.
In principle, fuchsia is excellent for instant feedings. Therefore, you can safely use such fertilizers.
Pests and diseases
Like many cultivated plants, fuchsia is susceptible to various pests and diseases:
- White fly. A small insect resembling a microscopic mole. It settles on the underside of the leaves and sucks the juice from the plant.
To do this, you must regularly inspect the "ballerina" and from time to time arrange a cool shower for the plant. Thus a double benefit is achieved: dust is washed away and at the same time pests.
If such methods did not help and the whitefly remains on the flower, you will have to use chemical preparations. “Aktara” is well suited for this, with which the plant is watered. If the pest is too much, fuchsia is treated with insecticides (Iskra, Konfidor, Fitoverm, Agravertin, Tanrek). As a rule, one treatment is enough.
- Spider mite. It appears mainly in dry and hot weather. If the plant infects this pest, it lags behind in development, the tops and buds dry out, and on the back of the leaf you can see a thin web and small spiders of yellow or reddish hue. They fight with this pest by spraying drugs from ticks ("Fitoverm", "Fufanon", "Akarin") and increase the humidity.
- Mealy dew. Appears as a result of excessive watering. You can fight with it with the help of Topaz and Fundazola.
It must be remembered that fuchsias come to us from the tropics, so at home we will have to create conditions that are characteristic of a tropical winter — cool nights.
Transferring the "ballerina" in the room, place her in a room with a soft bright light and, preferably, without the use of heating devices. This is especially important at night - this is the most critical period. During the dormant period, it is important to ensure that the soil is wet and to avoid drying out.
At the end of January, pruning is carried out, cutting off 1/3 the length of the shoots. Secondary pruning is done in spring. This removes the dry old shoots and forms the crown.
In the spring, with increasing daylight, you can begin to feed the plant and move it to a warmer room so that it “wakes up”.
In the open ground
Some winter hardy fuchsias in the southern regions can be left in the garden. Only for the winter they are covered with spruce leaves or oak leaves. Before hibernating the bushes, the leaves and buds are cut, sprinkled with a layer of earth (about 20 cm) and covered with lapnik. To isolate the plant from excess moisture, cover the top with a film or put roofing material. Open the flower only in mid-May.
There are many hybrid varieties that are fairly resistant to frost, but for the most part fuchsia is a heat-loving plant. In the garden, she is perfectly suited windless corners with sufficient lighting or slightly shaded. Soils prefer neutral, fertile.
Fuchsia is planted in the open ground at the end of May - June. When planting, make sure that the root neck is not more than 20 cm deep. After rooting, the plants intensively gain strength and begin to bloom (about 2.5 weeks). Before digging up for the winter, the plant should survive the first frosts, thus undergoing some hardening before winter dormancy.
Fuchsia storage in winter
Usually before the onset of these colds, plants are dug up, pre-cut to half. Put them, as a rule, in a container, close to each other. Providing rest is reduced to reducing watering up to 1 time per week and keeping plants at a temperature not exceeding 10 ° C, so that fuchsia does not start growing. After the leaves fall, fuchsia can be removed in a dark room with watering 1 time per month.
My fuchsia was wintering in an unheated bath in a container mixed with sand and earth in a tin bucket, covered with wadded old blankets. And survived the same winter! This speaks of good endurance, but still you should not take another risk, it is better to ensure constant temperature conditions.
Since March, we return fuchsia to life. To do this, we prune its shoots up to 15 cm and transplant it into a new nutrient soil mixture, increasing irrigation.
Wintering fuchsia in the open field
Fuchsia Magellan perfectly feels under snow covered with spruce branches, for other species and stable hybrids it is still worth holding a number of necessary measures.
Before the onset of cold weather, we cut off our beauty on the ground level, sprinkle with a layer of earth at least 20 cm, cover with lapnik and isolate from excess moisture, laying another film or roofing felt on top. In mid-May, begin to open the plant. From mid-June, a growth from the root collar will begin to appear, and only in August will the fuchsia begin to bloom.
Many gardeners come even easier, rooting new cuttings every year, leaving no plants in autumn. In this case, all summer cuttings will show the wonders of flowering.
Hybrid fuchsia (F. x hybrida) is divided into straight-growing bushes with a height of not more than 50 cm and pyramidal bushes (ampelous). Fuchsia flowers are bright, large, with upturned cups, which are different in color from the petals of the flower itself. This gives the flower a special zest. The cups can be red, white or pink. Petals of the same flower can be red, pink, purple, white.
Varieties of this hybrid are divided into groups:
Diamonds and Sapphires
In this group in colors are combined white and blue, and blue can be represented in purple hues, to bright blue. This contrast attracts the increasing attention of gardeners (varieties Dark Secret, Capri, Ultramarine).
All varieties of this group are very tall, with large, bright flowers. In the second year of development they reach the peak of their decoration. Popular varieties: Matilda, Walsing.
In the title lies the characteristics of the flowers of this group. Plants are varied in color. Flowers terry, small or medium. Popular varieties: Sarah Jane, Florentina, etc.
Fuchsia Royal Mosaic
Fuchsia for containers is also worth mentioning. They go on landing in the summer and in open ground. Grades: Anita, Carolina.
Ampiel fuchsias are good on balconies and hanging baskets, unusual pots. The most famous varieties are Cascade and Alice Ashton, but the choice is not limited to them.
In order not to get lost in the variety of colors of fuchsias, the plants were classified according to the color of the flowers and leaves: one tone, speckled, striped, two-colored.
For example, a group of monochromatic dark colors Dark Secret:
1. Orange (Tangerine Torment)
2. White (Snow in Summer)
3. Tri-color (Silver Drimers)
Characterized by extraordinary multi-colored foliage. Special decorative effect is achieved by pinching buds (variety Tom West and many others).
Winter hardy fuchsias are ideal for the middle lane. They are not afraid of frost, they winter well under snow with shelter and without. The most common varieties: Bacon, Garden News, Constance.
Three Leaf Fuchsia
Three-leaved fuchsia (F. triphylla) - shrub up to 50 cm in height. The flowers are small, densely coral-colored, gathered in a small short brush. The leaves are greenish-red, rather large. Suitable for landing in the ground due to its endurance. But put it in the ground infrequently, usually used in the container version. Grades: Orient, Express.
Try fuchsia not only at home, but also as a beautiful ampelnaya and garden plant! Her thick, abundant bloom looks great in the garden. And if you already have experience of growing fuchsia in the open field, share with us :)
What are the proportions of the soil?
The substrate for fuchsia is prepared from compost or manure, it is advisable to add a little vermiculite or perlite.
- If the manure mate is less than 3 years old - at a ratio of 1: 5.
- If humus from tops, weeds or food waste - the soil will be light and you will need a ratio of 1: 3.
- Instead of land, you can take a peat substrate.
- For cuttings with roots suitable "Terrakult" TC10 or TC4. Dilute it with agroperlite and add 1 tbsp to 1 liter of the mixture. land or ready-made soil to your taste.
- If you want to root the cuttings, then replace the humus, a handful of peat.
That the tree was luxuriantly flowering
For the cultivation of fuchsia, in the form of a stem tree and a shrub, certain tricks are worked out. To grow a tree from fuchsia - have plenty of patience. During planting, take care of the support, without it, brittle twigs will not be able to counteract the wind and heavy rain.
Wherever you plant your magnificently blooming beauty - in the ground or in the pots, make sure that she is not under the burning rays of the sun. Almost all types of fuchsia do not like them. If you have terry varieties - be prepared for "fastidiousness" and breaks in bloom. Чтобы добиться непрерывности обильного цвета, отдайте предпочтение более простым, не махровым сортам.
Удобрения под фуксии вносят с начала весны до середины сентября. Органические и минеральные удобрения лучше добавлять по очереди. From organic matter, you can take a solution of manure (1:10) - once in 2-3 weeks, from minerals you can use "Ideal" and "Kemira" - once in 4-5 days.
Important! Fuchsias are grateful for dressing and express it with lush flowering. If you use only a third of the recommended fertilizer concentration on the package, you can add it during each irrigation.
It is possible to add fertilizers only to damp soil, and in no case to add if the soil has dried. If you really need, and the earth is dry - it is allowed to use only foliar fertilizers.
How to take care of garden fuchsia while resting
For the winter period, the fuchsia, which was the decoration of your garden, is placed in large-capacity tanks and put to rest in a cool and dark place. Take care that the soil is always slightly moist, do not let it dry completely. Rest is reduced to reducing watering up to 1 times a week and keeping it cool, so that fuchsia does not hit growth. After the leaves fall, it can be transferred to a darker room and moistened once a month.
Want to bloom his faithful friend's lush - pay special attention to pruning. Some resources offer before wintering, shortly trim the bushes and get rid of the leaves. However, experienced gardeners do not advise doing this! As a result of such barbarism, by the spring the plants can be depleted.
If you get rid of the strengthened twigs that the fuchsia has grown over the summer, thin and weakened ones will appear, and the plant will use all its strength to strengthen them, and with the onset of spring she simply will not have the strength.
In the fall, get rid of only damaged and dried branches, not forgetting the seed boxes, peduncles and buds. The first time cut fuchsia in late January. Leave a third of the length of the shoots or 1 cm from the growth buds that spread. The shoots remaining after pruning can be rooted, and by spring they will make strong and fast-blooming young seedlings.
The second pruning is carried out in the spring, it consists in giving the crown the desired shape.
Fuchsia Diseases and Pests
Root rot. Sheet plate becomes dull green and dull shade, then turns yellow and dries. Roots low elastic and rotten. To fight, hold the bush for as long as possible in dry conditions. Water, avoiding soaking the leaves "Fitosporin-M", "Alirinom-B".
Gray rot. Infected leaf plates and stems turn into hollow and watery. On the plant appears a bloom of gray sporangia.
Spray such a plant with insecticide "Skor", "Chistotsvet", "Fundazol", etc. and get rid of old leaves and other infected parts.
White fly. Under the leaves you can observe the hatched insects and their larvae. If you do not notice during the time, the leaves will turn yellow and become covered with sticky secretions. Treat with solutions based on potash soap or "Aktara", "Aktellik", etc.
Goose. They can be seen with the naked eye directly on the leaves.
In order to prevent the death of a flower from time to time, inspect and, if necessary, get rid of insects manually. In the event of a mass invasion, it is worth using the following chemicals: Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin, Bicol, Fufanon, etc.
Aphid. We noticed that the leaf plates and buds became curly, turn yellow and emit sticky substances - be sure your beauty has not escaped infection. They are washed off with soap and water, with significant contamination sprayed with "Antitlin", tobacco dust, "Aktellik", "Fitoverm".
Spider mite Settled on the back of the foliage between the cobwebs. This trouble is favored by dry air and heat. If the damage is minor, wash the leaves with strong soapy water. In the case of a massive defeat - spray "Fitoverm", "Akarin", "Vertimekom", "Lightning", etc.
Preparing for the winter
If you grow fuchsia in pots or planters, and only moving them outside during the warm period, then virtually any well-lit and warm room will be the best place for wintering. Before you send the bush to rest, in early September, absolutely eliminate feeding with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Reduce watering.Even in conditions of a not very harsh winter, the culture freezes, therefore, it is desirable that in the fall it be thrown out of the ground and put into boxes and trays for flowers. Give the plant time for rooting, before sending to winter in the room.
Fuchsia in landscape design
Fuchsia is one of the favorite and fashionable plants for most gardeners, she won the love of self because of the variety of picturesque forms, unpretentious care, long vegetation period. Very colorful and elegant fuchsias look in hanging baskets. From them it is possible to form standard trees and fabulous beauty falling down shrubs.
Growing Fuchsia Outdoors
Message Selena »May 17, 2010, 00:09
Growing Fuchsia Outdoors
My little story about summer fuchsia content.
Here came the long-awaited summer!
Small fuchsia cuttings turned into neat lush bushes. Behind the tweaks and transshipments, the most pleasant and exciting work is waiting for flowers.
To reveal all the potential of flowering of fuchsia laid by nature and breeders can only outdoors. In the summer in the apartment to rely on the abundant flowering and health of the bush is not necessary.
Fuchsia in the garden
Fuchsia is a wonderful plant to decorate a country house and garden. With the help of hanging baskets with ampelous fuchsias, it is easy to revive a dull brick wall. A few shelves, podsvetochek on the porch and pots with blooming "ballerinas" will turn the entrance to your home in a romantic tale.
Bush varieties form a wonderful flowering border in a shady corner of the garden. Or maybe they will play the role of "prima" in a small flower garden by the reservoir.
Baskets with ampel varieties can be hung on tree branches. And the apple trees or cherries in your garden will bloom with colorful "lanterns" until autumn.
Fuchsia bushes can be planted in open ground. To do this, it is not necessary to transplant the plant, it is better to bury it with a pot directly into the ground. Thus, the fuchsia will not require too frequent watering, will not turn over from gusts of wind and in the fall it will not be difficult to dig up the plant for wintering, it will be enough to pull the pot out of the ground and send it to storage
If you are not the happy owner of a house in the village, adjust the balcony for the summer fuchsia.
Fuchsia in the summer on the balcony
Without exception, fuchsia varieties do not like the heat and dry air. From the intense heat flowering is the first to suffer. The flowers often do not open completely or lose their terry and shrink.
The scorching sun fuchsia is contraindicated, but the morning sun will benefit all varieties, the color of the petals turns out to be juicy and bright from the gentle gliding rays.
It is desirable to place pots with fuchsias so that it does not heat up from direct sunlight. You can hang pots against a wall or put them on a non-high stand on the floor, so that the sun illuminates the foliage and flowers, and the roots are protected from heat. Be sure to air out! Fuchsias are big fans of fresh air. and even a light draft will not allow the main fuchsia pest, the whitefly, to settle on plants.
Fuchsia pests. Prevention and control measures.
The whitefly is a small insect resembling a microscopic mole often annoying balcony flowers. It settles on the underside of the leaves, sucks all the juices out of the plant. Fortunately, it is not difficult to fight it, the main thing is to prevent the plentiful spread of the pest. To do this, regularly inspect the plants. From time to time it is possible to arrange a cool shower for plants, double benefit will be obtained, street dust is washed off and at the same time possible pests beneath the leaves. If invasion could not be avoided, you will have to use "chemistry". The drug "Aktara" works well against the whitefly. I spread a small bag (1.2gr.) In 3 liters of water and with this solution I water the fuchsia instead of the usual irrigation water. If the pest doesn’t prevent a lot from additional spraying with any insecticide (Fitoverm, Spark, Tanrek, etc.). One treatment is enough against the whitefly, the pest retreats, but one should not lose vigilance, repeated attacks are not excluded.
If summer is given out hot and dry in fuchsia, a spider mite can live. Plants affected by a tick lag behind in development, the tops with young leaves and buds shrink; colors. Control measures, at least three-fold spraying with mites (Fitoverm, Akarin, Fufanon), increasing the humidity of the air around the plants. You can put the pots of fuchsias in larger pots, and fill the bottom with a layer of wet claydite or spray fuchsias regularly from a spray bottle.
For abundant flowering fuchsias
Lush growth and abundant flowering contribute to regular feeding. Fuchsia big gourmets for regular dressing will be sure to thank the multi-colored fountain of flowers! For different phases of growth and development, different fertilizer compositions are used. For young growing specimens, a complex fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is required. Nitrogen contributes to the rapid growth of young shoots and increase the green mass of the plant. It is very good to pamper youth and foliar dressing. The grown and strengthened fuchsia is fed with fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium, for laying a large number of buds and abundant flowering. During the budding period, I spray my fuchsia several times with a solution of the drug “Bud”, the flowering is more friendly and bright.
Depending on how often you feed the plant, the concentration of the fertilizer also changes. When feeding every 7-10 days, follow the recommended concentration on the package. When fertilizer is applied in each irrigation, the concentration of fertilizer should be 4-5 times weaker than recommended. It is very good to alternate between mineral fertilizer and organic. Choose fertilizers that include in addition to the basic elements of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium and trace elements such as manganese, iron, zinc, magnesium. High-quality fertilizer improves the decorative properties of the plant, prolongs flowering, and contributes to increasing resistance to various diseases.
Newly transplanted plants are not fed (approximately two to three weeks after transplantation). Also you can not feed the weakened or diseased plants! In no case do not water the dry soil with fertilizer solution!
Carefully monitor the soil moisture in the pot. Fuchsias do not tolerate permanent waterlogging, but drought is not for them. Well if the soil is always a little wet. Light drying is transferred imperceptibly, but the consequences of a single overflow, especially in the heat, can become tragic.
Watering is best in the early morning or evening, so the life-giving moisture is well absorbed by the roots and spreads throughout the plant, and does not evaporate from the soil heated in the heat.
If the soil in the pot is wet, and the plant looks drooping, do not grab the watering can now. Just your beauty is slightly overheated, move it to a shaded place and spray abundantly with clean cool water in half an hour she will come to life.
Fading flowers, yellowing leaves must be removed, fuchsia always looks neat and tidy, and pests and diseases do not have a chance to settle on the plant.