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My marshmallows grow for many years. The leaves turn yellow, dry, grow new. I cut it (kosialakakak grass on the street). I put it "overboard", i.e. to the street in early spring and clean in the fall, when the temperature outside is below 5 degrees. Problem is not in the leaves, you say there are 3 onions left. And was it more? In this case, you either dried them or poured them, the second most likely. Check the condition of the onions, the roots, and if they are not rotten, then do not worry, everything will be fine, the green mass will recover, bloom and give many babies. It is more difficult if you overdid it with watering, then you need to take action if it is not too late: remove the lesions from the onions to healthy tissue, rotten roots, cuts and wounds with finely chopped charcoal (I treat the wounds with ordinary greens), dry the treated bulb during the week (do not be afraid, do not dry out). Before planting, dress the onion with a solution of foundationol (0, 2% solution) and plant it in a new lightweight substrate, excluding from it humus and adding chopped moss sphagnum. Substrate pour solution of foundationol. Watering the minimum, water should not fall on the bulb.

Care and maintenance

Lighting: direct solar

Bright sunny place. In the summer, marshmallows are planted in the garden - he is not at all afraid of the bright sun.

Watering: Moderate during the growing season. The soil at the same time all the time should be slightly wet. During the rest period, the zephyrans can lose leaves - then the onions are kept dry, if the leaves remain, the plant is watered occasionally.

Reproduction: Daughter bulbs, which are planted in several pieces in wide bowls. Planted onions first time watered very little. With good care, they will bloom next year.

Humidity: If the plant is in the summer in a room with dry air, the plant can be periodically sprayed.

Transplant: annually in spring. Pot only 2-3 cm more onions. The roots do not cut. The bulb should protrude 1/2 to 1/3 above the soil surface. Earth mix: humus, sod land and sand (1: 1: 1).

Top dressing: Once every one to two weeks with liquid mineral fertilizer for flowering houseplants, diluted at a concentration recommended by the manufacturer from the moment new leaves appear until flowering ends.

Pruning: in September-November, trim the leaves.

Pests and diseases: Shchitovki - brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, suck the cell sap. The leaves lose their color, dry and curl. Buds and flowers dry, the fruits are not tied.

Control measures. Wipe the leaves with 0, 15% solution of actellic (1-2 ml per liter of water), karbofos or decis can be used.

The amaryllis scarlet - whitish insects with an oval body about 3, 5 mm settle under scales on bulbs. Damaged chert plants strongly inhibit, stunted, leaves turn yellow and fall off. Soot fungi can settle on the secretions of the worms.

Control measures. The plant can be watered with insecticide per 2 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water. Try not to overspill the soil. Strongly affected bulbs should be discarded.

Spider mite: appears when the air is too dry - spider web appears on the leaves, buds and flowers become sluggish and fall off. Promotes the emergence of spider mites dry air.

Control measures. The plant is washed with soapy water, and after it dries, washed under a warm shower. If the defeat is not strong, then this is enough. With a very strong lesion, the plant can be sprayed with 0, 15% solution of actellica (1-2 ml per liter of water).

Features of care: In the summer you can bring to fresh air.

After pruning the leaves, do not water the plant pot and refrigerate it for a period of rest, which lasts from September to November.

Caring for marshmallows is very similar to caring for hippeastrum. Bulbs planted in a fertile loose substrate of equal parts of humus, sod land and sand. You can add phosphate fertilizers. The bulbs are planted so that the neck is on the surface.

Fertilizers are best given only mineral and regularly fed in the season of active growth and flowering. Usually in winter watering is reduced, not allowing complete dropping of leaves. The temperature is desirable to lower to 8-14C.

For zephyranthes of large-flowered, peace is recommended from September to November. You can arrange a longer rest until March - April. Stop watering, cut the leaves and place the pot in the fridge. At the end of the rest period, resume watering and return the plant to the window. In April, the first flowers should appear.

Zefirantes loves the bright sun, and in the summer it is better to plant it in open ground. By the end of the season, a large bulb is formed, which will bloom profusely next year. It is not for nothing that in subtropical parks zephyranthes are planted as a ground cover plant instead of a lawn: low dense foliage, high reproduction rate allow it to quickly capture and keep space well.

Zephyranthes is a bulbous perennial plant, belongs to the Amaryllis family. Homeland - Central and South America. The genus is divided into several species, of which zefirantes candida, white zephyranthes, large-flowered zefirantes, Julia's zefirantes, pink zephyranthes, etc. are most suitable for indoor floriculture, white zephyranthes, or upstart, naturally growing in Cuba are most popular. The leaves of the plant are narrow, belt-like, up to 12 cm long, fall in autumn. The flowers are large, light pink, funnel-shaped. The plant blooms for five to six months, with the old flowers wither, and instead new ones bloom. The remaining species differ from each other in the color of flowers and leaves. The flowers can be white, pink, red and yellow, and the leaves - light green, bright green, grayish-gray, wavy.

In spring and summer, zephyranthes feel best in a bright, not very hot room. You can take out the plant in the garden, on the balcony or put it by the open window, while it should be shaded from direct sunlight. During the winter months, zephyranthes should be transferred to a dark, cool room with a temperature of 13-15 ° C.

Zephyranthes should be watered and sprayed regularly during the summer months. Twice a month it is recommended to feed the plant with liquid organic and mineral fertilizers. In the autumn, watering should stop and move the plant to a cool room, otherwise it will not bloom for next year. At the end of winter, the plant needs to be transplanted and renewed watering. For planting, a soil mixture consisting of one part of humus, two parts of leafy ground and one part of coarse sand should be used.

Zefirantes should be propagated by onion-kids. They must be carefully separated from the parent plant and planted in separate containers. The best time for breeding is the end of February or the beginning of March.

The plant suffers from flail, white-locks and root bulbous mites. The most common disease is blackleg. It tolerates sudden changes in temperature.

I have the same problem as the leaves dry, but they grow back again. Check for the presence of spider mites. Insects on the back of the leaf and white specks on the leaves.

This is my zephyranthes.

Why do you have such a big pot? ! Most likely flooded. Urgently in a small pot, it grows faster in crowded places.

Plant description

Zefirantes - bulbous flower with long, thin, linear leaves, up to 40 centimeters in height and not more than 1 centimeter in diameter. The color of the leaves is bright green, the color of the flowers depends on the type of plant, and can be white, pink, purple or red.

Peduncles are also significantly elongated, have a tubular shape. The height of the peduncle reaches 30 centimeters. The flowers are large, lily-shaped, their appearance resembles that of amaryllis, or tulip. The bulb is large, round, its neck is short or elongated.

Plant Care

Zefirantes adapts well at home, but for its lush and colorful flowering it is necessary to follow simple rules of care.

The upstart root system is extremely gentle, so it is easy to damage. To avoid this, it is necessary to carefully monitor the quantity and quality of water. It should be watered only if the top layer of the earth has already dried up significantly. If there is a concern about excessive drainage, you can combine watering with regular spraying, or stop it altogether for a certain period.

Unlike most other indoor flowers, the upstart does not like to be watered too often. It is advisable to reduce watering to 1-2 times a week in the hot season, and up to 1 time in the cold. In winter, water should be as little as possible. When watering the bulbs too much, the plants may rot and the leaves turn yellow.

Temperature and light conditions

The upstart is a lover of direct sunlight and high temperatures. During the period of enhanced vegetative development and flowering, the flower needs a temperature not lower than 20-25 degrees. In autumn and winter, from September to November, and sometimes December, when the plant is in a state of natural rest, the air temperature can be lowered to 10-14 degrees.

Direct sunlight stimulates the growth of the upstart, so in warm sunny weather, without fear it can be put up on well-lit windows, placed on the balcony and even planted in the garden. The plant feels quite at ease in the fertile open field, so in the garden this flower adapts very quickly.

The plant must be regularly fed with mineral fertilizers during flowering and growth of new leaves. Top dressing is done 1 time in 2 weeks. As a fertilizer suitable for any drug for flowering houseplants.

Reproduction and transplanting

Zefirantes - unpretentious plant, as evidenced by the simplicity of its cultivation. At home, the flower propagates by simply dividing the bulb. Purchased plants, most likely, were grown from seed. The latter method of obtaining a new plant is extremely time-consuming, many flowers die before entering the period of active growth. Seeds of zephyranthes are very tender and small, in order to get a new plant from seeds it will take several weeks of hard work. In addition, to get the seeds is not easy. Flower growers who decide to use this method should know that seeds are planted in ordinary soil at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other.

PHOTOS ZEFIRANTES. CLICK ON THE MINIATURE TO INCREASE THE IMAGE

Transplantation and reproduction of a flower with the help of bulbs is done once a year, in early spring in the period preceding the rapid growth. Time for reproduction does not depend on the plant variety. Low, but wide enough pots are suitable for planting. In each pot you can place up to 3-5 bulbs, the more bulbs, the bush will be more magnificent. In the process of reproduction, young seedlings are separated from the large maternal bulb with a sharp knife and planted in a new soil. Places cut cut with crushed charcoal. Plant in a new pot should only be a healthy plant. Sick flowers are not subject to reproduction. Before breeding, pot and soil should be treated with boiling water and a solution of potassium permanganate.

Soil for transplanting can be purchased at the store, but you can make it yourself, using black soil, peat, sand and a number of small pebbles. Young seedlings should be planted in a well-fertilized soil, old in a large number of fertilizers do not need.

The transplanted plant should be placed in a slightly darkened place and not watered during the first 3-4 days. Rest is needed to restore the root system.

With proper planting, young plants will begin to bloom next season. Adult plants can continue flowering, which usually continues until September. After removing the last peduncles, the plant should be given time to rest. At the end of September, upstart leaves are cut, and a flower pot is placed in the cellar, placed on a cool veranda, or placed in a refrigerator. A period of rest comes and watering stops. In winter, around the end of November - early December, the plant can be taken out of its dormancy state and put back on the window sill by starting to water. Around the beginning of March, the first leaves should appear, and in April, the first flowers.

Types of Zephyranthes and the secrets of their flowering

Zefirantes care at home, for which is quite simple, is a charming plant. Today there are more than 40 species of it in the world: white zephyranthes, pink zephyranthes, large-flowered zephyranthes, golden zephyranthes, powerful zephyranthes and many others, cultivated by professional gardeners. Seeds of these species can be purchased at a flower shop. Despite the great diversity of zephyranthes species, in their appearance all plants are similar to each other, only a specialist can understand what kind of flower is being sold in a store. He is able to advise on which flower is suitable for specific growing conditions.

To care for any sort of zephyranthes is quite simple. Despite this, blue and red room marshmallows are the most popular.

Diseases and pests

Growing a plant and enjoying its amazing flowers, do not forget about the pests that can get into the soil during reproduction. The greatest damage can be caused by spider mites, whitefly, amaryllis scale and scalefish. If you find any of these pests should immediately purchase special drugs. So, in the fight against spider mites, ordinary soapy water, as well as aktellika solution, helps. The main sign of mite is the abscission of buds and blossoming flowers, as well as the appearance of spider webs on the leaves. Plants grown outdoors are most at risk of infection, so claims about the benefits of growing marshmallows in the garden may be erroneous.

The appearance of the whitefly in the process of growing, it is easy to notice by a large number of white midges, we dig a circle circling over the plant. An effective way to combat whitefly is spraying preparations containing permethrin.

The amaryllis scarlet appears in the soil layer, it is not easy to notice it, since its main habitat is an onion. In the fight against the bug, insecticides are used. In an effort to defeat the shield you need to pay more attention to spraying the flower with soapy water and wiping the leaves with a 0.15% actellic solution.

Some flower growers wonder why zephyranthes do not bloom. The cause of this disease may be insufficient lighting or lack of fertilizer. Increased temperature and humidity during the rest period also deprives the plants of flowers. You should know that with insufficient care, the leaves of the flower turn yellow and the bulbs rot. Robustus can always be made to bloom, observing the conditions of its habitat and periodically checking the soil for the presence of pests!

Lack of moisture

Zefirantes necessarily respond to a lack of moisture, and yellowing leaves just may be a manifestation of such a reaction.

As for any inhabitant of the tropics, the humidity of not only the soil layer, but also air is important for this flower. You can fill the upstart with water, but if the room is not damp enough, its leaves will still turn yellow and dry.

Drying the soil as a result of insufficient watering also leads to the fact that the plant begins to turn yellow. In addition to the usual irrigation, during the period of active growth and preparation for flowering, zephyranthes need regular feeding. For this purpose, purchase fertilizer for flowering bulbs in a specialized shop.

Air temperature

Zefirantes does not like too high temperatures. During the period of active growth and flowering, the maximum allowable temperature for the upstart is 25 degrees above zero, but the plant will feel much better at lower temperatures.

When Zefir is blowing, the flower of the western wind needs a temperature regime in the range of 8-14 degrees Celsius. Unfortunately, in the summer heat to provide such coolness is quite difficult, which is why the plant begins to turn yellow.

During the rest period, it is better to place a pot with a flower in a cold room, for example, on a closed loggia, however, if the air temperature drops below five degrees above zero, a tropical inhabitant may die from hypothermia.

Errors during transplantation

Transplanting for any plant is always stressful, however, indoor plants cannot do without this procedure. In particular, in relation to the upstart, it should be held every year, because after the flowering of marshmallow in the pot, there are numerous young bulbs that need additional space for development.

A violation of the transplant technology — too small or, on the contrary, too large capacity, improper burial of the bulbs, violation of their integrity, inadequate soil, etc. — all this can also cause the plant to start to ache, turn yellow and dry.

To avoid such problems with transplantation, follow these rules:

  • Процедуру нельзя проводить во время активного роста, перед или во время цветения. Правильно делать это после того, как растение отцвело, чтобы в фазу покоя оно вошло уже в новой емкости.
  • Do not plant each bulb in a separate pot (unless you grow an upstart for sale) or take an oversized container. Often, beginners of indoor flowers make exactly this mistake so that the next transplant does not take place as long as possible. As a rule, all bulbous plants develop best of all in conditions of a little limited space (as they say, “in crampedness, but not mad”).

  • Do not forget to provide the plant with good drainage, because, as we have said, stagnant water for the upstart is destructive.
  • If you have not picked up a special soil for tropical plants, add the same amount of sand to ordinary soil so that it becomes lighter and more loose. It is also good to enrich the mixture with organic matter, ideally - with humus.
  • Use for upstart wide pots with low sides.
  • If you have failed to separate the onions from each other without injuring, it is necessary to conduct antiseptic processing of the slices. For this purpose, ordinary charcoal, ground into powder, is quite suitable.
  • Do not dig in the bulbs too much: just barely cover them with earth.
  • Since immediately after transplantation the plant is supposed to enter the rest phase, it is not necessary to water it actively. In addition, not caught onion bulbs are particularly prone to decay.
Follow these simple rules, and your upstart will transfer the relocation to a new place of residence easily and painlessly.

Rest period

Above, we have repeatedly mentioned the resting phase necessary in the life cycle of zephyranthes. If you do not give the plant such an opportunity, it will continue to grow and even bloom, but it will look frail and exhausted, and the flowers will become smaller and smaller.

So, if you see that the growth of the upstart has slowed down, and the leaves began to turn yellow and fall off, think about whether it is time for your pet to rest. Usually such a stage at the plant comes in the fall or at the very beginning of winter. At this time, the pot must be moved to a cooler place and limit watering to a minimum. If the plant has completely dropped the leaves, it can not be watered.

In particular, a similar effect can be caused by the action of such parasites as the scythe, the whitefly, as well as the spider mite and aparallis scarlet (the last two are easily identified, because before drying on the leaves, characteristic signs appear first in the spider web and sticky syrupy raid in the second).

In this case, the plant needs to be helped to cope with the invasion using standard procedures: manual removal of pests, soil disinfection, bathing, treatment with special preparations, etc.

Thus, the yellowing leaves of zephyranthes can be caused by a mass of reasons, all of them, except one (the entry of the plant into the resting phase), are associated with improper care of the flower. Analyze what you are doing wrong, make the appropriate adjustments to the conditions of the plant - and the upstart will stop hurting!

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