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Cages for rabbits do it yourself: drawings, sizes

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Many livestock farms and private entrepreneurs are increasingly paying attention to the breeding of rabbits. Breeding these furry animals is quite a profitable occupation. If it is possible to put it this way, it is practically wasteless, since the litter of rabbits is highly valued in agriculture as fertilizer.

Rabbit cage types

Keeping rabbits in cages is the most convenient option for you and for animals. If you build a cage for rabbits with your own hands according to your own project and take into account all the possible needs of fluffy ones, ease of feeding and maintenance, then breeding rabbits will bring not only benefits but also pleasure.

Single cell

The single-section variant of the cage is a spacious enclosure with doors, equipped with drinking bowls and feeders. The room is designed for one individual or, if the section is large, for walking the young. A single-section cage for a rabbit is convenient when breeding animals in small quantities for their needs.

Two-section cage

The cells, consisting of two sections, are separated by a feeder made of a grid, made in a V-shape. In such a house for a rabbit, you can keep a couple of animals, opening the valve between the sections with the planned mating.

Triple cell

Cells consisting of three sections, allow you to contain three individuals (male and two females), between sections there are opening flaps. If necessary, one of the females can be admitted to the male living in the central section. After communication & - again divided.

Cell type farm "Klenovo - Chegodaevo"

The design of these cells is long - 240 cm, width - 65 cm. The material for the manufacture of the floor in such cells is wood, in a continuous sheet or lath way. Feeders and drinkers are located inside the cages on the floor. There are plug-in boxes that are used as queen machines with removable feeders and pans for babies.

Mikhailov cell project

The convenient design of a two-tier mini-farm was developed and implemented by I. N. Mikhailov. On the frame-stand are two floors of cells. The roof is made of translucent materials.

Feeding troughs and drinkers allow you to provide animals with food and water for a week. Such a device of bunk cages for rabbits is convenient for those who can not devote time to animals daily.

Cages of Zolotukhin's design

The construction of Zolotukhin is a three-tiered aviary, in two sections per tier. The upper tiers are shifted to the width of the lower floor grid obliquely, with a peculiar projection of the floor of plywood or from a flat sheet of slate.

Inpatient mother liquor is not provided: for the female with a litter, a portable hole is inserted for the winter. In the summer, the female with rabbit is located in the hay, but is separated by a partition from the rest of the animals.

The feeder in the form of a tray is inserted into the frame of the door, which allows you to pour food without opening the door.

Does it make sense to acquire an industrial cell

With large-scale rabbit breeding, factory-made rabbit cages will save time on self-cage production. Such cells have a lot of advantages: a clear design, equipment with convenient watering and feeding troughs, trays for feces, nests for individual individuals.

In the factory nets there are convenient queen cells for females with offspring. The drawings of rabbit houses are constantly being improved, the designs are complemented by innovative ideas, and more convenient and rational developments are developed for both the cells themselves and various adaptations for the life of animals.

The lack of factory cells in frequent marriage in the production of any parts of the house, the mismatch of the size of the cell with the future location of its location.

On the other hand, when making a cage for domestic rabbits independently, the dimensions of the cells are commensurate with the space of their further location. Depending on the number of animals, the type of cage, the placement of partitions, drinking bowls, feeders is chosen.

It is possible to choose a material that is more convenient for you in the manufacture of both the entire cage and the pallet, feeders and other things.

Making a cage with your own hands

Before making a home for animals, it is necessary to determine the size of the premises: for adult males, females and cubs, for each individual rabbits is determined footage required for normal development and maximum convenience.

Professionals are advised to calculate the flock area for rabbits so that one adult has at least 0.12 square meters. It is advisable to immediately provide all the nuances: partitions, the location of drinking bowls and feeders, the location of pallets.

Three-tiered cages for rabbits will be optimal for a large number of animals, the nursery for the young, and separate sections for males and females will easily fit in the project drawings.

The advantage of such sheds is considerable space saving, the ability to install a structure on the street and in the utility room.

The choice of space for cells

No matter what design you have in mind: small rabbit cages or three-tiered sheds, the main thing is correct choice of location.

The best place for the aviary will be a slightly shaded area, for example, in a garden among trees. In this case, the animals will be protected from drafts and overheating.

Professional rabbit breeders advise keeping furry pets in street conditions: animals develop immunity to diseases, improve wool quality, as well as reproductive function and endurance of the offspring.

A good option - at the wall of a large utility room with a protruding visor, which will create additional protection from precipitation and direct rays of the sun. For outdoor maintenance, take care of cell insulation during the winter period.

Double-decker cages for rabbits can be located indoors. In this case, think carefully about the removal of waste products: animals should not suffocate from the smell of their own feces.

Size and drawing

The size of the proposed premises depends on the breed of animals and their number (consider and litter). The average rooms have the following dimensions:

  • length - 120-150 cm,
  • width - 60-80 cm
  • wall height - 35-50 cm.
For young individuals, the length can be reduced to a meter. During the construction of bunk rabbit houses the second floor has the same dimensions, the difference will be if you choose the Zolotukhin design.

When developing a drawing, take into account the houses for females with offspring and premises for the young, consider the location of the feeders and drinkers, convenience for you when cleaning the cells, partitions opening for mating.

Think about how to warm the outdoor room for animals. Perhaps you will like the idea of ​​an extension to the main house of the recreational cage from the grid.

Necessary tools and materials

For the construction of cells it is better to use natural materials for the main parts of the room: wooden blocks, boards and slats, sheets of plywood.

For the roof of houses it is desirable to use a slate base, rather than metal. Metal sheets quickly heat up, as well as freeze during the winter period.

For individual parts you will need: galvanized mesh, door hinges, hooks and latches for doors. Tools and small parts:

  • metal shears
  • screws and screwdriver,
  • nails and hammer
  • pliers,
  • Bulgarian, saw,
  • Roulette, pencil and level.

Building a cage: step by step instructions

Once you have decided on the size, selected the necessary materials and prepared the tools, you can proceed to construction. To work easier to get going, consider the proposed you step by step instructions for making cages for rabbits:

  1. The first action will be the manufacture of the frame of the bars. Measure according to the drawing the necessary sizes and quantity. Assemble the frame, reinforce and check the reliability of the base.
  2. Lay the floor. It is recommended to make the floor using net or thin rails so that the waste does not accumulate in the section. For outdoor maintenance, the floor can be made double. For easy under-floor cleaning, install pallets.
  3. Plywood sheets or boards are used for the rear walls, you can make them a little shorter than the front ones, then precipitations will not linger on the sloping roof.
  4. It is better to make the side walls of wood without cracks, and the interior - of the grid. In a two-section room in the middle of the set feeder.
  5. For the front walls fit plywood or boards, the doors can be made of wooden slats with a grid. Secure the doors and check how easy they are to open.
  6. It is better to make a removable roof for the enclosure, so it is easier to clean the cells. Material - slate. In the manufacture of the roof provide shelter.
The construction is completed, it now remains to arrange for living creatures soft bedding of hay, hang the feeders and drinkers, settle in the fluffy household.

In this article, the step-by-step production of the rabbit cage is designed for any type of home for animals, since general instructions are given during construction. Rabbits are very gentle animals, and the better and more attentive their care and maintenance, the greater the return.

Choosing a place

When choosing a place for the future living of animals and installing their houses, cells, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected area.

Cages for eared wards can be placed:

There are certain requirements for the location of rabbit cages

Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located in the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in the winter time animals will not stand on the street without shelter. If you are planning to live with rabbits just in such a blessed place, consider the following rules.

  1. The rate of air humidity, which rabbits tolerate well, has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically transfer a larger percentage of them, they will begin to languish and ache. On this basis, choose a place to install the cells should be dry, located far from water, best on a hill.
  2. There are recommendations regarding sunlight. Eared love to bask under them only in cartoons, in life it will bring only harm and lead to general diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from reaching the cells, install them in the shade of garden trees or arrange canopies. If rabbit breeding is a matter of your whole life, you can plant a bush fence that will disperse the sun's rays by passing through it.

Rabbit cages can be placed both indoors and outdoors

The following continuation of the list of recommendations is relevant both for keeping rabbits in outdoor conditions and in indoor environments.

  1. One of the main tasks in keeping rabbits is to prevent drafts from raging in their houses. According to statistics, it is blowing that is the most common cause of disease causing eared livestock. If wind rushes exceed a speed of 30 meters in 1 second, it will be very difficult for animals to keep healthy.
  2. However, it is not necessary to transform the way of life of rabbits in the greenhouse. High-quality ventilation is the most important condition for the proper maintenance of animals. If it is insufficient, the animal’s faeces, evaporating, will infect the organisms with harmful toxins.
  3. In winter, animal cages must be insulated. If they are kept in a heated shed, you just need to turn on the heater. However, if there is no heating and the walls that protect from the cold, are also absent, it is necessary to warm the cells themselves. The temperature inside them should not fall below +10 degrees. It is not desirable to exceed the mark of +20 degrees, since this temperature is already considered too hot for fluffy ones.

Warming of cages for rabbits with modern methods

Pay attention to the cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits during warming.

Requirements for indoor rabbits

Keeping in cold climatic zones implies a mandatory shelter - a barn or other house in which animal cages are installed. To this room also presents a list of requirements that must be met for successful breeding fluffy.

  1. The shed windows should be placed on the south or southeast side in order to increase the light day for animals, as well as the heat input from the warming rays of the sun.
  2. It will be necessary to additionally equip the premises with lamps and heaters, since in the short winter light days the rabbits will sharply feel the lack of heat and light. You can "kill two birds with one stone" and equip the rabbitry with red lamps, giving both light and heat. With a small rabbit area, this will be enough to cope with the negative consequences of the harsh winter frosts that are characteristic of our country's climate.
  3. Plastering of walls is also necessary, as it will allow to observe hygiene in the room and prevent the penetration of excessive moisture into the room where the eared ones are kept.

The room with rabbit cages should be clean and plastered.

It is necessary to place cages for rabbits at a distance from the ground in order to protect pets from rodent attacks.

Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits

To build a comfortable cage for rabbits is less than half of the business. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read a special article from our portal to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what is the difference in the ways they are kept.

Necessary materials

When creating dwellings for rabbits, it is better to give preference to natural materials in order to maximally approximate the maintenance of animals to natural conditions. Therefore, as a basis for the cells, it is necessary to choose high quality wooden bars, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.

Drawing rabbit cage

Additionally, for the construction of cells, we need:

  • boards and quality wood,
  • thin plywood,
  • fine mesh welded wire mesh
  • slats made of wood, 3-4 centimeters wide,
  • medium metal wire,
  • wide plastic pallets in cell sizes,

To sheathe the inner surface of the cage walls is best plywood, as it is moisture-resistant and strong material. Particleboard, for example, is not suitable for this purpose, since it absorbs moisture and is destroyed by swelling.

What are rabbit cages?

All rabbit cells are built according to some general principles, however, they still have differences. All the nuances of construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cells under construction. There will be at least a few species in your farm, and here's why.

  1. Depending on the area at your disposal for the arrangement of the rabbitry, the cells may have:
    • 1 tier,
    • 2 tiers
    • 3 or more tiers.

Three-tier rabbit cage

House for animals of different ages differ among themselves

Giant rabbit versus regular rabbit

As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of the future residents. However, for each of them there is a general construction instruction, which varies depending on the goals. Let's start to consider it.

Important nuances

Before voicing the instruction itself, we discuss some important points. The standard sizes of a spacious rabbit cage are:

  • 120-170 centimeters in length,
  • about 50 centimeters tall
  • 70-80 centimeters wide.

As a rule, if the parameters of the cell change, then only the length is shortened. Height and width remain standard, since it is these parameters that are most comfortable to care for.

Rabbits of the same sex are most often caged

Mixing in the same cage rabbits of different sex is prohibited, as this can lead to:

  • uncontrollable mating
  • difficult to follow pregnancies
  • male fights for the attention of females
  • fights females for the attention of the males,
  • strangling each other’s females by feuding females.

Instructions for self-building cages for rabbits

So, go to the step-by-step instructions for building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared, consisting of two sections. In one of them adult individuals will reside, in the second - sucretic uterus with offspring. For a time, until you have a nursing female with cubs, rabbits can be placed in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when they are in a bad mood and want to rest from fluffy cohabitants.

Getting to build.

Take harvested wooden bars and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent rotting of the tree and penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structure, which can further damage the eared health.

The skeleton of cells for rabbits collected from the bar

Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle and not contain a large amount of chlorine, burning wood and destroying its structure. This is important, since the exploitation of cells is merciless and it is necessary that they serve for a long time.

Take the wooden timber harvested ahead of time and cut it so that you get the details with the following parameters:

  • 4 бруса по 1,5 метра,
  • такое же количество брусьев по 55 сантиметров,
  • две пары брусьев по 70 сантиметров.

Вместо четырех брусьев длиной в 55 сантиметров можно сделать только два и еще два по 35 сантиметров. Smaller in size will be installed frame parts for the back of the cage, where we place the uterine nest.

Connect the shortest and half-meter bars together to make two identical figures. If the parameters of the bars for the skeleton of the front and rear of the cage are the same for you, then you will get a rectangle, if different - a trapezium.

Now connect the rectangles to each other, using pieces of wood 70 centimeters in length. You should have a wooden frame structure that resembles a large box.

We proceed to the installation of the floor. It can be made from several different materials. We present a comparative table of the pros and cons of each of them.

How to choose a place to install the cage

Place to install the cage

Let's stop first on the backyard maintenance of eared animals. Two options are possible:

  • open content (in the air)
  • placing cells in a room (for example, in a barn).

To select the place of installation of cells, you must follow the rules.

  • Humidity should not exceed 60-75% (therefore, the cells are installed in a dry, remote from water, elevated place).
  • Insofar as rabbits categorically do not perceive direct sunlight, then the cells should be ideally located - among the trees that give shade, or protected by artificial hedge, scattering direct sunlight.
  • Draft is a common cause of rabbit disease. Therefore, the movement of air in excess of 30 m / s is undesirable. However, cell ventilation is one of the rules that must be strictly observed. Otherwise, evaporation of emissions will damage the health of your pets.

In wintertime, the rabbits should be kept warm, so that the temperature fluctuates in the range of 10-20 C. Special attention is paid to the weatherization of the queen cells and rabbits.

If animals are kept indoors, then it should be:

  • necessarily plastered,
  • well ventilated
  • illuminated in winter no more than 10 hours.

Ideally, the animal housing room should have a window on the south side of the entire wall.

Cells in open space, it is desirable to also be located in accordance with the cardinal points - facing east.

And one more nuance - the cells must be installed at a height of 0.8-1.0 m from the ground. This will save the rabbits from the bites of domestic rodents and will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the cage by the breeder.

Rabbit cage

Rabbit cage

The classic version of the rabbit cage is a construction of the following sizes:

  • 50 * 70 * 30 cm - for the young,
  • 50 * 100 * 30 cm - for the little rabbits.

The whole space of the cage is divided into a walking room and a deaf zakut, where rabbits of any age find shelter in moments of “dangers” and bad weather. The length of the compartment for walking may vary, but is usually up to 50 cm in length and width. Zakut beloved by rabbits is a box 25 cm long and 50 cm wide. It is sheathed tightly, and only a removable door is fastened on the front side. The manhole, is located in the wall adjacent to the walking room, and is usually 17 * 17 cm.

The specificity of the structure of the rabbit cage is that it usually equips the mesh or slatted floor for the free passage of waste into the pallet, which is under the floor.

The height of the front side of the cell is usually 55 cm, and the back wall is 30 cm. That is, the cell assumes a sloping roof, which in the case of “long-line” cell placement, will simultaneously be a tray for higher cells, in connection with which it is usually covered with galvanized iron.

Materials for the manufacture of cells

Build a cage for rabbits

When choosing materials for the manufacture of cells, it is better to give preference to a high-quality and ecological tree. For the construction of the frame fit wooden beams. For wall cladding is well suited board or plywood. Chipboard is unacceptable because it draws water, swells and crumbles.

To arrange the floor using a welded mesh with cells of 1.7 * 1.7 cm, or wooden slats up to 3 cm wide. The slats are placed 1.5 cm apart from each other for free passage of waste into the pallet. If the distance between the slats is larger than the specified one, or the grid cells are larger, then this is fraught with broken legs when stuck in large openings. Floor slats may be plastic.

One condition must be strictly observed - the material for the manufacture of cells must be smooth, without traumatic foreign inclusions.

Rabbit cage dimensions and drawings

The sizes of cages for rabbits are directly dependent on:

  • rabbit breeds
  • selected content scheme (mini-trusses, battery-type cells, according to Zolotukhin
  • and so forth),
  • regulatory indices of the necessary space (for example, for rabbit - 0.5-0.7 square meters,
  • males will need - 0.17 square meters, and young animals - 0.12 square meters).

In practice, houses of two connected cells of 100 * 55 cm in size are often used. In these cells, the uterine compartments are adjacent to the outer walls of the cage and communicate with the aft compartments with openings of 17 * 17 cm. On the front side of the house there are doors: two solid in the nesting compartments, and two mesh in the walking spaces. Between them are nursery and watering. Troughs are usually attached to the front side of the mesh doors.

Drawing cage for rabbits

Solid wire cage

This type of cage is designed to be placed in livestock-type rooms and even in conventional hay barns. The walls and ceiling of the cells are sheathed with a grid of 2.5-5 cm, the floor is 1.7 * 1.7 cm.

The main advantage of these cells is the simplicity and accessibility of cleaning and disinfection. All you need is a good brush and a propane burner, which will help you get rid of unwanted microorganisms and bunny fluff easily.

Solid-wire cells occupy significantly less space, which is also their dignity in farm management.

Difficulties in cell construction

The main problem in the manufacture of cells with their own hands is the lack of quality and detailed drawings, or the unjustified high cost of licensed options (for example, drawings from Rabbitaks).

The second difficulty that a home craftsman faces is the non-standard size of the used building materials. And as a result, the need to purchase materials under the order. If the lack of experience in the manufacture of cells is added to this, then the cost of materials is prohibitively high.

Cell Construction Tips

Rabbit Cage

Beginning masters make similar mistakes when building cells:

  • material savings lead to crowding, which is bad for the health and reproduction of rabbits,
  • the uterus or nesting compartment should be stationary (zakuty scare the rabbit and can cause a crush of rabbits).

To reduce stress during the deposition of young stock, you can use a cage with a stationary zakut for rabbits, in which a hole of 12 * 12 cm in size will not allow the rabbit to be constantly with rabbits. And the moment of separation of rabbits will not be so stressful.

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

NII cells are very popular. Zolotukhin. Their main the difference is the lack of pallets, i.e. solid flat slate floor, and the presence of the grid only from the back of the cells to a width of 15-20cm. Gradient location of one cell above another helps to get rid of waste from the “upper floors” to the “lower” ones. A characteristic feature is also the absence of nesting compartments. The rabbit is given the opportunity to build independently a queen of hay. Feeders in the doors are mounted on rotating nails, thanks to its articulated design are easy to clean.

On our site there is an article dedicated to the cells of Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin in which you will find all the practical advice and recommendations from the author, in addition to this you can familiarize yourself with the drawings and sizes of cells.

Cells from Tsvetkov

This is a kind of four-apartment house, equipped with a ventilation system and a "sewer". There are also hanging queen cells and gravity feeders and drinkers. The manger for hay is upholstered with galvanized netting and fastened to the frame with nails. All vulnerable parts are reinforced with tin plates. In winter, the compartments for young rabbits and queen cells are heated with conventional medical heaters. Unusual is the turn of the face of the cell to the south side.

It is worth mentioning once more that the size of the cage for rabbits depends largely on the breed, the number and place of detention. But there are general recommendations for any cell type:

  • The section in which the maintenance of males is planned should be quite large. This will allow the animals to move freely and not become lazy, otherwise they will be unable to give birth.
  • For rabbit allocate a separate spacious cage. Up to four pieces can be placed in this section. It is important to take into account - at first the rabbits are kept near the mother for fattening.
  • Make one free cage in which it will be possible to fatten baby rabbits. Some babies do not gain enough weight in time spent with their mother.
  • Laz in the nesting compartment should be raised by about ten centimeters. In order not to be bitten, you can beat the edges with steel. But do it carefully, leaving no chipping.
  • The front wall should be equipped with two doors - one for the main compartment, the second for the nest. And if the first option can be netted, then the latter is necessarily continuous.
  • Street cages for domestic rabbits can be provided with a manhole for walking. To do this, in the rear walls make a hole in a special pen, enclosed by a grid. This will make it possible to frolic rabbits and enjoy fresh grass.

Making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is not so difficult. If we apply the tips written above, then we can hope for a good profit growth and convenient care for the animals.

Drawings and photos of cells for rabbits

Photo of a wooden cage for growing rabbits on a home plot with an indication of sizes

Cage for three adult rabbits (for home keeping). It consists of two levels. The lower level has double doors that open wide to provide easy access to the cage. The upper level consists of two separate compartments connected by an entrance. One of the compartments of the cage is designed for sleeping rabbits. Another compartment is covered with a net, and this area can also be opened for easy access (great for cleaning the cage and for grooming and feeding rabbits). The design of this cage is quite simple, and it can be made independently for keeping rabbits in the garden.

In the photo are rabbit cages made of wood and metal mesh.

Photo of cells with walking for rabbits

Cell drawings for rabbits and their young

Drawing of adobe cage (1), wattle-clay cage (2), combined cage with a walk for keeping rabbits (3), cages from a box (4)

Cell drawings for home rabbits

Industrial cages for the maintenance and cultivation of rabbits

Photo of one and two-tier cages for twelve rabbits with litter (sizes 2.3 x 2.05 m)

In the photo, one and two-story cages for fattening rabbit meat breeds (up to 144 heads)

Cell selection

Rabbits are animals that do not require special conditions of detention. That is why it is not necessary to buy houses for them: they can be made independently.

Advantages of self-made houses:

  • the construction takes into account all the features of the room, its location and conditions of detention,
  • significantly reduced costs for the arrangement of the rabbit farm,
  • self-fabrication of cells will help avoid marriages, which are often allowed at the factory.

An example of a homemade house in the photo.

Advantages of factory cells:

  • ideal design, which provides optimal conditions for the life of animals,
  • the facility is equipped with nests, drinking bowls, feeders, pallets,
  • factory products are constantly being improved, their designs are becoming more complex: when buying a finished cage, the farmer can be sure that he will become the owner of modern equipment.

Factory houses presented on the photo.

Tip! Buying ready-made cages will cost a considerable amount, while self-manufacturing of rabbit dwellings is a very budget event.

Cell types

If you are seriously going to start breeding rabbits, then you will have to build several rooms:

  • for fattening baby rabbits,
  • for keeping rabbits with cubs,
  • for males.

To provide rabbits with housing, you need to build a whole “residential complex”. It can be installed both on the street and in the barn: it all depends on the environmental conditions of a particular region. Drawings for creating cells can be developed independently or found ready in specialized journals and on the Internet.

Cages for males

Males are settled in separate houses. This allows you to avoid fights, fighting for food, as well as unplanned mating (if males and females are kept in the same room). The size of the house should be such that the rabbit can move freely inside it. If the males are cramped, they will become lazy and obese. And this may affect the reproductive function: rabbits will stop producing offspring.

Rabbit cages with cubs

Houses for rabbits with rabbits should be spacious enough. They are located in one tier and consist of two sections: the main and uterine. In order not to freeze cubs in winter, the uterus must be carefully warmed.

Cages for feeding young animals

Rabbits are populated in such houses at the age of 2-3 months, if they could not gain the necessary weight during the period of their stay with the mother. To give the female an opportunity to give birth to new rabbits, the grown up cubs are deposited in a separate room and fed to the desired weight.

Adult Rabbit Cage

House for adult animals can be made by hand. It will take several hours to create a home, but you can be sure that the room meets all the requirements for keeping furry pets.

The finished cage for adult animals is represented in the photo.

Stages of work:

  1. Make from 4 wooden bars the frame of the house. It should be rectangular, its dimensions are equal to the length and width of the future product.
  2. Install the house on the legs. To do this, take 4 bars: 2 of them must have a length equal to the height of the front wall + 30 cm, and another 2 - the height of the back wall + 30 cm. The frame of the front wall is formed by long bars, the back - shorter (enough difference 10-15 cm). Screw them to a rectangular base so that it rises 30 cm above the floor. These will be the legs.
  3. Attach a galvanized grid to the rectangular base of the floor so that it covers the middle part of the room. From each side, leave a space of 35–40 cm in length for nesting compartments. Cover the nest floor with suitable size plywood so that it slightly grabs the net.
  4. Install the side and back wall of plywood and finish the frame house. To do this, fix between the front side bars 1 long beam at the top.
  5. Separate the nest compartments from the rest of the premises with slats. Install spacers between these slats and the back wall: plywood sheets with holes cut into them. Holes are needed so that rabbits move freely between the breeding and feeding compartments. Attach a roof to each socket.
  6. Divide the room into 2 sections with a crossbar. Make plywood troughs and screw them on opposite sides of the separating rail.
  7. To keep the bottom well, turn the structure upside down and secure the net with nails and battens.
  8. The bunker for feeders make of 4 sheets of plywood, which should be slightly smaller than the house. The bunker should look like the letter "V" and expand upwards. Attach it between the feeders so that after pouring the feed from this funnel unhindered fed into the feeders.
  9. Close to the back wall make a manger for coarser food: hay and grass. Their width should be 30 cm. To make it convenient for rabbits to pull out blades of grass, make walls of wire rods on both sides.
  10. Attach the roof to the cage. It should protrude slightly above the cage. In the middle, where the feeders are located, build a slider door that you can slide out to feed. For convenience, attach to it a wooden or metal handle.
  11. Attach the doors to the front wall, which are made of slats. Stretch the net between the slats. Nest compartments can be left without external openings, or solid wooden doors can be used for them.

Drawings for the manufacture of such cells are easy to find.

Houses for three-month rabbits

Up to three months, rabbits contain groups of 6–8 individuals, therefore group dwellings are used for their maintenance. They are made in the same way as double houses. The only difference is that for a large number of rabbits a different feeding system is required: they simply cannot eat all together from a small feeder.

Stages of work:

  1. The skeleton of the house is made in the same way as the skeleton of double cages for adult animals. Однако разделять помещение на две секции не нужно. Клетка будет состоять из гнездового и кормового отделений. При этом гнездовой отсек должен быть в 1,5 раза меньше кормового.
  2. Пол гнездового отделения покройте древесным тесом и отделите от кормового фанерной стенкой с отверстием для передвижения животных. Наружную стенку гнезда нужно сделать из фанеры.
  3. Пол и фасадная часть кормового отделения делаются из сетки. In front of the need to attach the door, made of rails.
  4. Along the entire length of the feed compartment, place the feeder. It should be placed in such a way that part of it is in the cage, and part of it is outside (for the convenience of laying hay). It is made of mesh, so that animals can conveniently pull out grass. It is better to raise the feeder above the floor by 3–4 cm so that the food is not contaminated by the waste of the little rabbit.
Tip! Up to 12 animals can be held simultaneously in such a cage.

There are ready-made drawings for the manufacture of such cells.

Two-tier (three-tier) shed

Two-tier and three-tier structures are made in the same way as two-section houses for adult rabbits. But in this case, several cells are located one above the other in tiers.

Stages of manufacturing a two-tier shed:

  1. Make 3 rectangular frames. They will become the floor and the roof of future cells.
  2. Strengthen them on the long bars. Connect the first rectangle with the bars so that the legs remain 30 cm high below. Attach the next rectangle 50 cm above the previous one, and the third 10 cm above the second.
  3. On the first and third rectangles, fix the galvanized mesh, which will be the floor for the aft compartment. Equip both houses in the same way as usual two-section cage.
  4. The second rectangle will simultaneously serve as a roof for the lower house and a tray for the upper one. Between the second and third rectangles you need to install a removable box into which waste from the upper house will be dumped through the grid.

Thus, you can make not only a two-tier, but also a three-tier shed. If you make several such structures, then you get a real rabbit farm.

How a multi-tiered structure for keeping rabbits may look can be seen in the photo.

Rabbit House with Nest

To make a house for a rabbit with a nest, you need to take into account some of the features of this structure. The house for the rabbit is built separately from other structures. Well, if it is portable, so that animals can be moved from the street to the barn.

Stages of work:

  1. Chuck the frame for the house, from plywood make the back wall and side. In this construction there should be two compartments: the main and the uterine.
  2. For each of them, make a separate door: to the rabbit compartment - from the grid, to the mother liquor - from plywood or thin boards.
  3. To prevent rabbits from freezing, warm the queen cell. It is desirable to make it a double floor, walls and roof, in the space between which you need to put insulation: foam, straw or any other material. If the winters are very cold, then the “warm floor” system will do: between the two levels of the floor a hot-water bottle is laid. The wire from the unit is brought out so that the animals do not nibble it.
  4. The roof is covered with water-repellent material.

The photo shows how the house for a rabbit with a cub should look like.

Do I need a house with a walk?

If the owner of the rabbit farm has a large green area at its disposal, then the houses with a walking range are in this case an excellent option. They look just like ordinary rabbit houses, only on the back wall they have a door through which rabbits are let out for a walk.

Place for walking can be made by hand. Behind the cage you need to equip a large aviary. Its frame is made of wooden slats, and the walls are covered with a dense mesh. It is better to place the enclosure on the sunny side: rabbits spend most of their lives in dark cages, and they simply need the sun.

What is the advantage of cells with walking? The fact is that rabbits need space to run. If they have the opportunity to stay in the fresh air and periodically knead their paws, they will be less sore, gain weight faster and be more active. In addition, the fur in such animals will be much more fluffy and shiny than their sedentary relatives.

A house with a walk may be the same as in the photo.

Place for the house

The choice of location for the house depends on the climatic conditions of the region. If winter frosts in your area - a rarity, then rabbit houses can be easily placed on the street. However, you should choose a place where there are no drafts and excessive moisture: rabbits are prone to colds.

Tip! Rabbits can be kept indoors as well, but the ideal option is combined maintenance: in summer, rabbit houses are exposed to fresh air, and in winter they are sent back to the barn or house.

If you install shed cells, then it is desirable to arrange them in two rows and turn the facades to each other. An adult should be free to pass between the rows.

Rabbits do not like intense lighting, but if the houses are in a shed, then the room should be equipped with several lamps. They should cover the rabbit dwelling 8–10 hours a day.

For the manufacture of cells with their own hands it is recommended to use the following materials:

  • wood (parallel bars, slats, plywood),
  • galvanized mesh with a small cell size (it depends on the size of rabbits),
  • plastic for finishing works,
  • slate or roof tiles if the cage is outside.
Tip! All wooden parts of the product should be well polished, and the edges of galvanized mesh - tightly nailed to the surface. Rabbits - gentle creatures that can easily get hurt about poorly processed parts of the home.

For the arrangement of rabbit cells is not recommended to use metal. Under the rays of the sun, this material is very hot, and in the cold season it freezes. In such a dwelling, the rabbits will feel uncomfortable, start to hurt and stop breeding.

Instruments

To make a house for rabbits with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • hammer,
  • roulette,
  • hacksaw,
  • plane,
  • scissors for cutting the mesh,
  • pliers,
  • nails, screws, screws, corners,
  • screwdriver and screwdriver,
  • sandpaper.

Cell size

The size of rabbit cells depends on the size of the animals. The single cage for the male rabbit should be at least 0.6 m wide and 0.8–1.1 m long. If the rabbits are large, then the dimensions of the section should be increased. One rabbit weighing more than 5 kg requires premises ranging in length from 1.3 to 1.5 m.

The size of the room for the young depends on the number of rabbits. They can be placed 5–8, and with a compacted landing - 12 individuals per lodge. The width of the cells in this case should be 1 m, height - from 0.35 to 0.6 m, and length - 2-3 m.

In any case, one adult rabbit should not be less than 0.5–0.7 m2, and one cub should be less than 0.15–0.2 m 2.

After studying these simple recommendations, you can easily equip your rabbit farm. If you make pet houses yourself, the company will cost a small amount. And the rabbits bring considerable income: after all, not only the tender meat of these animals is appreciated, but also their wool and dung.

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